Best Table Saw Fences (Easy to Use and Simple to Adjust)
When using a table saw, you always want to ensure your cuts are accurate. After all, if you don’t, then who knows what could end up happening? Actually, I could predict that your entire project could come crashing down simply because a few cuts were not carried out as you had planned.
But why am I talking about this? Well, it’s because I’m going to look at six of the best table saw fences on the market. The table saw fence, also known as the rip fence, will play an integral role in ensuring you can get those accurate cuts every time.
Without it, or even with a poor fence system installed, you can pretty much be assured that your cuts may not work out the way you intended.
But why listen to what I have to say?
Well, I’ve been working with power tools for over 20 years, so I have a lot of experience handling various tools and working on multiple projects. I’ve taken all that experience and spent time reviewing the different fence systems.
I intend to not only provide you with six of the best rip fences to choose from but also help you make your decision. Ultimately, this will involve me providing some tips at the end on what to look out for.
- Best Beginner Table Saw Fence System – Carter Magfence II Universal Magnetic Fence
- Best Overall Table Saw Fence System – Shop Fox W1716
- Best Multifunctional Table Saw Fence System – DCT Table Saw Fence 18”
- Best Fence with Standard Rails – Shop Fox W1410
- Best Locking Fence System – Delta 78-919BT2 Biesemeyer
- Best for Small Workshops – DeWALT DW745 Table Fence
How I Made My List
But let me quickly explain how I managed to make my list.
For me, the most important thing when choosing a rip fence system was the ease of use and how simple it was to adjust. The last thing I want for you is to have a fence system installed that takes an eternity to set up and also becomes the trickiest part of your table saw when it comes to getting everything in place.
So, that’s what I focused on, but also if it was robust and could cope with being used on a regular basis. Finally, I also examined what other people had to say about the table saw fence to give some better insight into what it’s like to own it.
By the end of all of that, I was left with these six table saw fences. I feel confident that at least one of them will fit in with your own individual needs.
Best Beginner Table Saw Fence System – Carter Magfence II Universal Magnetic Fence
Honestly, this is not just one of the best fence systems for people new to table saws; I think it’s one of the best on the market in general.
What I love about it is the fact it’s universal. You are not tied down to one particular brand as it fits with almost every single iron or steel table, and it does so with absolute ease. Also, size is not a problem. It just attaches without any issues, and you are good to go.
Sure it’s only 6” long and has a height of 3 ½”, but that’s not a massive problem in my book. It will undoubtedly be more than enough for those quick cuts, and precision will never be a problem.
But here’s another reason why I love it.
This fence system can be used for other power tools where you use a fence to guide you and keep your cuts in line. All you do is quickly detach the tool and move it onto another iron or steel surface, and it’s ready to go.
In addition, I find that this tool has more than enough t-slots, and switching the magnets on and off is also exceptionally easy to do. I just find it so easy to use, and if you have never used a fence system before, then it’s almost impossible for it to go wrong.
- It is one of the most straightforward fence systems to attach
- It works with more than just table saws
- You can attach it to any iron or steel table
- It does help you produce accurate cuts
- Switching the magnets is easy to do
Best Overall Table Saw Fence System – Shop Fox W1716
For me, the Shop Fox W1716 is the best overall table saw fence system on the market, and I’ll tell you why I think that’s the case.
First, there’s the length. It measures some 57”, meaning you get a total rip capacity of 30” to the right of the blade. I know that means this rip fence can be used on pretty much any project, so I don’t see versatility as an issue here.
But I also love the fact it’s made from aluminum. That keeps it nice and light, but the fact it’s still metal does mean it has a strength about it.
However, while they do represent important aspects, it’s not the most essential part.
You see, what I also love here is the fact it comes with its own heavy-duty cam lever. That will lock everything into place, and this rip fence will not be moving anywhere any time soon.
While it does a fantastic job of holding the fence in place, the lever is straightforward to use. Actually, you can do this with one hand and then simply lock it all into place when ready.
That does mean adjustment is not a problem. In addition, the design does mean the chances of any deflection occurring while in use should be reduced.
Finally, there’s the ease with which you can read the measurements on this fence. The measuring tape has a real contrast, so things stand out. Once again, I find this very easy to use, and it’s quick and simple to line up your cuts.
Overall, this table saw fence system performs well and will do so for years to come. Its length allows you to work on various projects without needing to continually adjust everything, so this could prove to be the best fence system you ever buy.
- It is long, so it works with most projects
- The cam lock works well
- It’s very straightforward to adjust, and everything does lock into place
- The measurements are clear
- It’s robust and will continue to perform for years
Homemade DIY Table Saw Fence Plans Free
If you are a wood crafter, you will surely have a table saw in your workshop. No wonder nothing would be a better option than adding a fence to the table saw for better support. Well, you don’t need a professional to install or build a fence for your table saw, especially if you are a crafter. Even if you are not a crafter, you can still make a fence for a table saw or a table saw fence system. So, learn how to make a table saw fence with the help of these 15 easy DIY table saw fence plans including free instructions guide. Indeed, you can improve the performance of your blade with the help of these fences.
No doubt, it’s crucial to build the fence for the table, especially without a DIY plan. On the other hand, you cannot rely on the ready-made table fences all the time because of the different specifications of each table saw. over, store-bought fences are also not high in quality. That’s why you have to make a fence yourself for your saw blade. Ideally, customized DIY table saw fences are affordable and high in quality than standard models. So, why are you still not building a table saw fence yourself?
Surprisingly! You can craft a fence yourself using the scrap material from your workshop within an hour. All you need to do is use the appropriate equipment to get your hand on the desired fence. Let’s take a look at each homemade table saw fence plan to get started.
Homemade Table Saw Fence
Are you looking for a fence for your homemade table saw? If yes, this DIY table saw fence system Plan is for you. Keep in mind; you have to follow the complete instructions to build the fence properly. Ideally, you can use your homemade saw to cut the parts of the fence. For this, you will need plywood pieces, a table saw, T-squares, clamps, wood glue, wood screws, power drill, ruler, craft marker and hardwood rail. woodgears
DIY router table: Explore these free router table plans so you can DIY your own router for your woodworking shop. These plans include photos, diagrams, and step by step instructions.
How to Make a Table Saw Fence
Make a fence yourself for your table saw to offer better support with this DIY plan. This plan includes all the step-by-step guidelines for ease of work, even for beginners. over, you can also check the tutorial for further guidelines or information. The needed supplies for this plan are wood screws, wood pieces, a rectangular aluminum profile, wood boards, carriage bolts, nuts, table saw, hand drill, hammer and clamps. instructables
Wooden Table Saw Fence
Replace the old table saw fence with a new one. Now, this time you don’t need to buy this fence system from a shop. You can make DIY table saw fence system yourself easily by using the supplies from your woodworking workshop. Ideally, you can also consider working on this diy table saw rip fence if you want to improve your skills. For this, you will require MDF boards, cordless drill, clamps, wood glue, wood screws, tape measure, drill press, nuts with bolts and sandpaper. ibuildit
DIY Proxxon Table Saw Fence
No doubt, the Proxxon table saw is cheaper than other saws. If you want to make this saw completely functional, add the fence around it. For this, you don’t need to buy it from a woodshop. Make it yourself with this easy-to-follow DIY plan. You can make your saw more incredible and durable by adding a customized homemade table saw fence. So, start making it with aluminum profiles, plywood boards, wood rails, carriage bolts, nuts, wood screws, wood glue, power drill, drill bits, tape measure, clamps and a hammer. modelshipworld
Auxiliary Fence for Table Saw
Undoubtedly, the already installed fence with the table saw is productive. But you have to change it after few months to improve the support system of the saw. For this, you will need to get this DIY table saw fence from any shop. You can make it yourself super affordably and effortlessly by following the plan’s guidelines. Indeed, you can work on your projects more safely because of a customized fence around the saw. To make this table saw fence, you will need melamine boards, plywood boards, wood glue, wood screws, table saw, drill bits, screwdriver and clamps. instructables
DIY Table Saw Fence Plans Pdf
Do you want to build a fence for your portable table saw? If yes, craft it yourself with this free PDF plan. This written plan includes all the guidelines and pictures to offer a better understanding of the requirements. The needed materials and supplies for this DIY are flat washers, nuts, T-nuts, threaded rods, wood screws, wood glue, laminated plywood and simple plywood boards. over, use the fastener bit too tight the T-nuts. mazaydiy
DIY Table Saw Rip Fence
Are you looking for a creative and affordable fence for your bench saw? If yes, this DIY plan is for you! You can make this fence yourself in no time and effort only by following the step-by-step guidelines. No wonder the addition of this homemade table saw fence will make working on the saw much easier. So, build this rip fence using melamine boards, aluminum profiles, fence guide channels, wood screws, wood glue, power drill, clamps, screwdriver and tee-nuts. instructables
DIY Table Saw Track Fence
DIY a super easy and affordable track fence for your table saw with this DIY Plan. Ideally, you can build this fence yourself by using a homemade saw. The best thing is to make this fence out of the wood scrap and leftovers from your workshop. However, don’t compromise over the quality of wood supply for long-lasting results. Start making this track fence using wood scrap, plywood boards, trim router, saw, power drill, wood screws, wood glue, casters, nuts, nails, a brad nailer, hammer and a screwdriver. imgur
T2 Fence to a Craftsman Table Saw
Even you have an old-style craftsman table saw in your workshop; you can still make a fence for it with this super easy DIY plan. In this way, it would be effortless for your to work on the saw. over, you can also modify the structure of the old table saw with this craft. The things and supplies you will need to work on this plan include combination square, carpenter’s square, drill bits, power drill, wood glue, wood screws, wrenches, socket set, clamps and flat head screwdrivers. instructables
DIY Table Saw Fence Upgrade for Craftsman
Upgrade and modify the level of old-style craftsman table saw with this DIY fence plan. Ideally, you can consider this project for a craftsman router table to give it a wholly new or functional look. To make this saw fence for a router or saw, you will need T-squares, plywood boards, channeling material, wood glue, wood screws, bolts with nuts, screwdriver, table saw, power drill, drill bits, measuring tape and trim router. Get the other essential guidelines to work on this plan from the added DIY pictures. tasteteasf
How to Make a Table Saw Fence
Do you want to work on your table saw without any problem? If yes, nothing would be a better option than working on the customized fence. Indeed, you can get better saw performance and support with the help of a crafted fence. You can learn to make this fence from this instructable plan. For this, the needed supplies and tools are a table saw, bolts with nuts, T-squares, drill, drill bits, clamps, measuring tape, pencil, wood scrap, nails and a nailgun. Measure the size of your bench saw before cutting the wood for the fence. instructables
Ultimate Table Saw Fence
DIY an ultimate table saw fence super quickly with this DIY universal table saw fence plan. Luckily! You can also watch the tutorial for a better understanding of the requirements and specifications of this project. over, if you are a beginner crafter, you can also collect the materials to make this diy table saw fence according to provided guidelines. However, the basic needed supplies for this plan are aluminum profiles, carriage bolts, nuts, wood boards, hardwood rails, screwdrivers, wood glue, wood screws, power drill, drill bits, bench saw, tape measure and clamps.
Do you love 3D modeling? If yes, use this skill to make a versatile and highly durable table saw fence. For this, you can also get the step-by-step guidelines from this video plan. Ideally, this plan also includes the needed materials and supplies details for ease of work. Even you are not familiar with 3D modeling software; you can still make this fence only by following the plan’s steps. The required materials for this craft are channeling or modeling material, nuts, bolts, wood boards, wood glue, wood screws, power drill, screwdrivers, clamps and measuring tape.
Make a super easy table saw fence with this DIY plan. Ideally, you can work on this craft with available supplies and materials from your wood crafting shop. For this, you will not need to buy anything new or expensive. All you need to do is use the right woodworking tools to get your hand on this durable fence for your table saw. Excitingly! The included video guidelines will help the initial level crafters to work on this customized extended table saw fence super efficiently.
Making a table saw fence is crucial, especially without the right DIY plan. If you are looking for good ideas and guidelines to build a fence for bench saw yourself, this DIY plan is entirely for you! You can make this diy table saw rip fence effortlessly only by considering the same steps and instructions provided in the tutorial. over, you can also choose the same materials used in the video plan to get your hand on the desired and customized table saw fence. Indeed, it would be super cool for you to craft a fence with the right DIY table saw fences.
Above all, working on all the mentioned above diy table saw fence plans free is super easy for beginners and intermediate-level wood crafters. However, you still need to follow the diy table saw fence plans, free guidelines and instructions because of the crucial alignment requirements of the fences.
Hopefully, you would love and have fun working on your table saw once you have added a customized homemade table saw fence to it. So, now it’s your turn to make a fence for the bench saw to offer it better support. Happy Wood Crafting!
DIY Table Saw Rip Fence Improvements
Portable Workshop I’ve spotted a few problems, as well as accessories that could use some improvement. I’m going to try and show how to fix them in a series of three or four articles. In this first article I’ll show you how to improve the fence.
How to use a homemade table saw rip fence?
This is a very simple rip fence that’s inserted in one of the sides of the table saw. I’ve screwed a small plywood piece to the back side in order to make it sturdier and ensure it’s square with the top of the table saw.
I’ve also made a new front piece that’s a little longer on the bottom to achieve a greater support surface. This time I’ve used 18mm thick plywood rather than 9mm. It still has some slack at the end point of the cut, but this isn’t a problem. When making cuts, we usually apply pressure onto the fence until the blade has gone through, but at the end point, we barely put pressure on the fence. With this improvement, I’ve made the fence more stable.
I’m going to show you how to align the fence with the blade and the miter channel. This can be done with a woodworking square, a caliper, or in my case a dial indicator. First of all we have to introduce the dial indicator and find the distance to the front and back part of the blade.
It’s not bad at all, but I have to move the blade slightly left in the back. To do this, I loosen the screws holding the circular saw just a little, and I gently tap the saw a few times with a rubber hammer. This step should be repeated as long as necessary until the blade is aligned with the miter channel.
Now that the blade is aligned, the next step is to align the miter channel with the fence. In this case I have to move the back part of the fence slightly towards the right. This is another needed improvement I’ve made. I’ve placed two small wooden pieces to tilt the fence in both directions. I only have to loosen two screws and tap it a little, and then tighten the screws again. Just like before, I have to repeat this process as many times as necessary until the fence is parallel with the miter channel.
For the final step of the adjustment, I’m going to cut a piece of a board to adjust the new fence cursor I’ve installed in the fence. I measure the piece with a caliper and adjust the cursor by moving it to one side or another as appropriate.
As you have probably noticed already, another improvement has been to glue an HPL sheet on each side of the fence. This allows for more smooth movement when cutting pieces and greater impact resistance.
Besides cutting, the fence can be used with the router table. I’ve installed a threaded insert on the opposite end of the top to prevent the fence from moving when pushing against it when using the router. I’m going to do some testing with the router table and the fence in operation. All of these improvements definitely make the router table more accurate and comfortable to use.
As usual with these kinds of router tables, I can use a miter gauge to make different kinds of straight or angled cuts. The same miter channel allows me to use a featherboard on top of the table, and I’ve also installed two threaded inserts in the fence so that I can use another featherboard and apply pressure downward.
Finally, I’ll show you how to use the fence together with the inverted jig saw guide. It’s a very versatile system for making small cuts that aren’t possible to make with the blade.
How to improve a homemade table saw rip fence?
Next up, I’ll show you how the step to improve the table saw rip fence. First of all we have to remove the front 9mm thick piece. With the 3D Router, I’m going to cut a groove that allows me to hold the fence when using it with the router table. I’m going to cut a small piece of plywood and attach it to the back part of the fence with screws. This will let me square the fence with the table.
I also thought it would be a good idea to reinforce the sides of the fence with an HPL sheet. I spray contact glue on both surfaces and use some clamps to keep them pressured together for a few minutes. With the router and a flush trim bit, I cut the left over parts of the HPL sheet. I’ll use the DIY dust hood to work more comfortably.
I’ve printed out a paper copy of the printable template for the new front piece of the fence so I can machine it as necessary more easily. I stick it on the plywood and make all the necessary holes with the column drill. I cut as required with the table saw and the inverted jig saw.
Now I’ll cut the rabbet that will let me place the fence cursor acrylic. I’ll finish the job with a chisel. After cutting the acrylic to size, I drill a few holes that will let me adjust the fence cursor. I’m going to put the acrylic in its emplacement and mark the measurement line. With a chamfering router bit, I’m going to bezel the hole for the fence cursor to make it easier to read the self-adhesive measuring tape.
It’s time to cut all the required parts to make the fence alignment system. I’ll use hardwood and four screws. After cutting the wood to size, I’ll drill a couple of holes and finish the job with a coping saw and a rasp.
How to make an alignment system for a DIY table saw fence?
I work out the position of the wooden pieces on the plywood so I can make the necessary holes. I make sure everything works as intended, and that seems to be the case!
Next I’ll make the system that locks the parallel fence to the table saw. This new system is very similar to the old one. I join the two pieces that make up the “L” shape of the system with screws and wood glue. I drill holes for the tightening bolt and steel pipe that will act as guides. I’ll use the previously drilled holes as a reference. I glue the pipes to the L and make sure they work correctly.
How to make a locking system for a DIY table saw fence?
I’m also going to cut a rabbet for a mushroom bolt. I’ll use a knob I had in my workshop. After placing the threaded insert, I cut a spacer with a hole saw. Now all that’s left is to assemble and try the tightening system and apply three coats of nitrocellulose lacquer.
Once the varnish is dry, I assemble the entire tightening system of the fence again. I screw the new plywood piece back to the fence. Lastly, I’m going to cut and screw this small 9mm plywood piece on the side to strengthen the bond.
Here you’ll find the next article in this series, where I’ll show you how to upgrade the inverted jig saw guide of this DIY woodworking portable multi-tool.
The ULTIMATE Table Saw Fence
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|(1) 4×8 sheet 3/4″ Baltic Birch Ply||Table Saw|
|48″ Aluminum Miter Track Set||Trim Router with Flush cut bit (for formica)|
|48″ T-Track||5/16″ Drill bit|
|T-Track w/ Accessories||3/4″ Forstner Bit|
|1/2″ Rare Earth Magnets||Feather Boards|
|Tee-Nuts 1/2 20||Star Knobs|
|1/4 20 Hex Bolts – 1″ 1.5″|
|Contact Cement (for attaching formica)|
|(1) 4×8 sheet white Formica (if desired)|
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Table Saw Fence and Accessories Plans
Are you interested in making the most of your table saw’s capabilities? With these plans you can turn your stock rip fence into multiple valuable shop jigs to perform a host of tasks at the table saw.
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Why Do You Need An Auxiliary Fence?
The rip fence that comes standard on every table saw is good for doing what it was designed for, making rip cuts. A good rip fence is rock solid, doesn’t move out of calibration after a few uses and is easy to adjust when needed. The better biesemeyer style fences will have a 3-4″ face on them and that’s enough to clamp some very low profile things like stop blocks to but at the end of the day there just aren’t a lot of things a standard rip fence can help with outside of it’s core function. What you really need if you want to transform your fence into the best version of itself are two things: HEIGHT and VERSATILITY.
Height allows for better support of vertical cuts on the saw. Think about making raised panels at the table saw. You really need a solid vertical support to move a door panel across your saw blade. Or think about cutting the cheeks of a tenon.
And if you’re going to add all that height, you might as well build some way to attach other things to it. That way your fence can hold things for you while you work.
My ultimate table saw fence was built to accommodate just about every type of operation I might want to do at my table saw. It has an almost 1 ft high face, it bolts solidly into the sub fence for rock solid stability and has a t-track and miter track built into it to allow for all sorts of attachments anywhere along the length of the fence.
I also thought about storage. If you have all that space on top of the fence, you might as well keep your most used tools close at hand right? on this later.
Making A Solid Sub Fence
The core of this whole thing is the sub fence. It provides the stability and basic attachment points for other things like the tall fence. You want to make sure to take care in making the sub fence snug to your rip fence. The key here is you don’t want it moving or rocking on you, especially with that tall fence attached to it.
The sub fence is made entirely of 3/4″ (19mm) baltic birch ply and consists of two vertical parts that are 6″ tall
DIY Table saw. How to make homemade table saw
Those are screwed to a horizontal piece that is made of two strips of the baltic birch laminated together. I used two strips in order to give a solid surface to screw into and a nice flat 90 degree reference for the vertical sides. the horizontal strip should be the exact width of your rip fence minus a tiiiiiiiiny bit. Maybe 1/128″. This makes it so when you screw the sides to it, it will pull snugly to the rip fence making a piston fit.
the front and back also have small pieces screwed in so that the entire fence doesn’t slide but fits on the rip fence like a glove. You will have to cut a notch out of the front side to allow for the lever on the rip fence to come through. This is going to be different for every saw, so just make the notch fit your fence specifically.
You can see here that I countersunk some 2″ screws into the sides to assemble the sub fence. Make sure to countersink them so they don’t interfere with the operation of the fence.
Here you can see how the sub fence slips over the rip fence. I recommend chamfering the inside edge of the subfence by 1/8″ to make the process of slipping the sub fence on and off easier.
Another key feature of the sub fence are the tee-nuts I put into it. There are four tee-nuts on each side of the sub fence to allow me to bolt on my tall fence. These tee-nuts are countersunk in from the opposite side prior to assembling the subfence.
You can see here how this tee-nut is countersunk into the side from the back
Attaching the Ultimate Table Saw Fence
Those tee-nuts allow me to bolt on the tall fence easily and securely.
The tall fence is made of 2 pieces of the 3/4″ Baltic birch laminated together and skinned with formica. The formica is optional but it provides durability and toughness as well as a smooth easy to clean surface that you can make very visible reference marks on.
One side of the fence has a t-track in it. This allows for adding all kinds of attachments to the fence.
The other side has a notch cut out at the bottom to allow you to make flush cuts at your table saw.
And the top has a miter track built on it. This is to aid with jigs that require sliding across the blade (I’ll show you a couple of my jigs below).
The way that I positioned the tee-nuts allows me to bolt the tall fence on from any position.
Creating Maximum Versatility
I can turn it around to use the notched side.
I can do the same on the opposite side of the blade.
Its fully reversible for maximum versatility.
Feather Boards on the Ultimate Table Saw Fence
So the first thing I recommend as an attachment to the ultimate table saw fence are feather boards. Feather boards are like a pair of extra hands that can provide downward pressure on the work piece as it passes through the saw blade.
One feather board is good, but two is better. That way you can have control of the cut before and after the blade. Here’s a link to the feather boards I have here.
The Versatile L-Fence
Another very versatile attachment is the L-fence. The L-fence makes quick work of rabbets and straight or tapered cuts, miters, bevels and making precise cuts on awkwardly sized parts. My L-fence is just two boards fastened along their edges at a right angle. One side is attached to the fence; the other side extends horizontally for a work piece or template to ride against. And because this fence floats over the blade, it doesn’t get damaged like a sacrificial fence would.
To make a tapered cut on your work piece, just mark the beginning and end points of the taper.
Then get something with a straight edge (I’m using a piece of hard maple that I verified was straight). A straight edge works too.
Attach it to your work piece using two-sided tape. This tape makes a solid, non destructive bond. Make sure the saw blade height is just high enough to cut through the work piece. Also, position the rip fence so that it sits just above the blade without touching it and make sure the edge of the L-fence is flush with the outside edge of the saw blade.
Now with the edge of the L-fence flush with the edge of the saw blade, keep the runner in contact with the L-fence as you pass the work piece across the blade. Anything beyond the runner will be cut by the blade.
And there you have it. a clean cut taper using the L-fence!
Making Flush Trim Cuts
You can do a similar type operation using the notches side of the fence. Again position the outside of the blade just flush with the fence and under the notch.
Now if you have something to cut flush like edge banding can be done so easily. Press your work piece against the fence as you pass over the blade and anything that sticks under the notch will be cut off.
a simple way to make flush trim cuts!
Using the Tenoning Jig
The top miter track is perfect for jigs that have to slide across the saw, like a tenoning jig.
I made the slider that has the mating rail which slides in the miter track. The slider has tee-nuts embedded in it that can be used to bolt anything you want to the fence.
Tables Saw FENCE, | RIP FENCE, | DIY RIP FENCE
As you can see here, my tenon jig allows me to make safe and accurate vertical cuts, like tenon cheeks easily.
Its super easy to attach different jigs using 1/4 20 hex bolts.
Using The Spline Miter Jig
Another commonly used “sliding” jig is a spline miter jig.
This jig allows you to make slot cuts into miter joints safely.
You can glue splines into the slots to reinforce the miter joint!
Creating a Tool Caddy
The last thing I want to show you is the tool caddy. The ultimate table saw fence is also the ultimate tool caddy.
I keep every tool that I commonly use at my table saw right at my fingertips. I use magnets to make sure my steel tools don’t shift around during operation.
Making a Magnet Bar
To make a magnet bar just drill some 1/2″ holes into a strip of hard wood.
Add a couple magnets to each hole you drilled.
Then add some fast drying glue and add a thing 1/16th thick veneer over the magnets like so.
This will conceal the magnets and hold them in place.
Now you can glue as many of these as you want into the tool caddy!
As you can see, I have one long magnet bar that holds my rules, tape measure, riving knife and anything else made of steel that is small and that I want to keep safely in place.
Also, I made this other block which isn’t magnetic but does hold my square, pencils, markers and my router table height adjuster (I have a router table in the wing of my table saw).
I also added a custom holder for my push stick. With all the small stuff secured I can throw other things like my safety gear in there and they wont get tangled up with the other tools. This makes the ultimate table saw fence truly ultimate!
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7 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Like your plans and the additional attachments you’ve made, BUT one thing that is missing from the plans is an exploded view of all parts. This helps to show how things go together (not all the descriptions are clear). I’ve modified a few bits to make it fir my saw and I’m quite happy with it.
I am building this fence using plans bought from your website. Question: Why do you not notch the far side (Part 10) of the sub-base? Will the back end not swing on you? Or does this allow you to align or fine tune the square table saw to the fence? Is there something other than the original YouTube video on further use of the fence? Note: I have a DeWALT 10-Inch Table Saw, 32-1/2-Inch Rip Capacity (DWE7491RS)
I think I have a resolution. My table saw does not have an indented area or a lever extending away from the front, rather to the side. In order to get the sub-fence flush to the fence side I re-engineering the sub fence design to better match the table saw fence. Always a challenge but that’s what makes it interesting.
I love this fence design, and only have a few Комментарии и мнения владельцев about the plans: 1) On page 8:11, the picture shows the 1/4″ dust notch on the fence side rather than toward the work piece. 2) On page 9:11, I believe you may have intended the 1/8″ route slot to be 3/8″ as it would be too small for the 5/16″ accessories provided with the T-Track. My silver top rail miter track had a very narrow tolerance and would rub metal-on-metal instead of sliding smoothly, despite the edges of the slider and fence being jointed. Having such a nice fence, I ended up improvising by using the leftover blue T-Track on the slider which fits perfectly and allows the slider to move effortlessly while maintaining a the same tight tolerance!
I’m hoping to build this for my 1991 Craftsman contractors saw, but…. The design seems to assume that the existing rip fence is 4″wide and that the auxiliary fence will fit snugly over it. Other wise it will just flop around. Unfortunately the original fence is only 1 1/4″ wide. I’m thinking of first building the original fence up to 2 3/4 by adding 3/4 inch hardwood to both sides then modifying part one on the accessory plans to 2 3/4 instead of 4″. Am I on the right track or did I miss something?
I purchased the plans and made the fence. I really like it but had a couple small issues. 1) The bottom holes to secure the fence ended up 0n the very bottom edge of the L-Fence side. my 3/4 inch insert hole was on the very edge of the bottom and did break through. Moving the center line from 1.5 inches to 1.75 inches would be better in my opinion. 2) The plan shows the sawdust relief cut on the back of the tenon jig. The video shows it on the face as it should be. 3) The plan calls for 1/8 inch slots in the L-Fence. I think it should be 1/4 inch slots. 4) The plan calls for 1 1/2 inch bolts to secure the fence. They were not long enough to reach the threads on my tee-nuts. That may be because I bought my tee-nuts at a big box store and they are shorter than others. Anyway a 2 inch bolt with a washer worked for me. 5) To keep my cost down I made my tall fence with melamine coated MDF cut-offs I already had. I line in a rural area and formica can only be ordered by the sheet and costs as much a a sheet of the melamine MDF. I ran the coated MDF through my drum sander on one side to be able to glue them. I really like the fence. It is very versitile.