Best Miter Saw for Crown Molding. Crown molding miter saw

30.05.2023 Fordrejurus best, crown, miter, molding

Cutting Crown Molding Miters without Chop Saw?

I’m ready to install some crown molding. a first for me. But how to cut it? I do NOT own a chop saw!

This is trim for built in kitchen cabinets. There’s not much of it, the molding is 4.5″ wide and the longest piece is about 9-10′. There are two 90 degree external mitered corners (no internal corners) so a total of only 4 cuts. [One of the mitered corners has a very short side. only about 2″ long at the shortest edge. this cabinet is inset into a recess in the wall where the face frame stands proud of the wall a couple inches, so that leg of the crown covers the gap.

I have:.Contractors 10″ table saw (no sliding table of course). Good crosscut bladeJapanese saws: a couple Dozuki, a Ryoba, and a Kataba (the latter two in rougher shape than the Dozukis)Circular saw (not great)Two Western saws: Veritas fine tooth dovetail (too small) and a 30 year old beat to hell dull standard western ‘box’saw (crosscut saw with stiff back) A Bosch Jigsaw And that’s it.

As for jigs I have a 30 year old beat out maple miter box about a foot long with short sides, a device I pretty much never use except once in a dark blue moon to make a quick dirty cut. I experimented with a quick and dirty miter cut by adding a higher temporary sidewall inside the miter box so I could position the molding at a 45 degree angle inside the miter box, then make the cut with a Ryobi. it was awkward to cut and not confidance inspiring and when finished the miter joint it produced didn’t look clean or exact nor was the geometry precise: I concluded that even if I took my time and did it with care that this setup was jingus.

None of my tools seem suited to the task.

Oh, just to preempt the inevitable: I have no plans to purchase a chop saw. I’ve managed to find a way to make whatever cuts I’ve needed to make in my life without owning a chop and I’ve never lusted after one. Besides I don’t have the space. (I do admit to some brief moments of chop curiosity very recently. but that’s all it is).

Steve Neul

It could be done with a hand held circular saw but it might take some doing to make the jigs to miter it. You would have to make a jig to clamp to the molding mitering it left and right at 31.62 degrees. Then tilt the blade over on the saw to 34 degrees. This is how a compound miter saw functions. The angles would need to be very exact as if you were off just a half degree the miter wouldn’t make 45 degrees on the wall. If the molding is small enough you might just pick up a wooden miter box and cut it with a hand saw. You would put the molding in the miter box on an angle just like it fits on the wall.

GeorgeC

Do it the same way they did it for centuries before power tools.

A hand saw and miter box with correct angles. Surely there is a video somewhere on the web to show how.

kwoodhands

Do it the same way they did it for centuries before power tools.

A hand saw and miter box with correct angles. Surely there is a video somewhere on the web to show how.

I cut crown with a Stanley 5×30″ back saw and miterbox for years until miter saws were used. I still have this miterbox and saw but have not used it in many years. The last time I used it was cutting 12″ 3 piece crown that only a 15″ miter saw could handle. As the large miter saws at that time were not accurate enough for crown my Stanley miter box filled the bill. mike

DrRobert

I never cut crown flat, so I would do it just like a miter saw. upside down and 45’s.

I would make a miter box with 2×4 walls tall enough and wide enough to hold the crown at a 45° tilt. Make two opposing 45° plumb cuts to guide the saw. Insert the crown upside down and cut the 45°.

I would check the walls first, outside corners are often less than 90.

woodnthings

I cut crown with a Stanley 5×30″ back saw and miterbox for years until miter saws were used. I still have this miterbox and saw but have not used it in many years. The last time I used it was cutting 12″ 3 piece crown that only a 15″ miter saw could handle. As the large miter saws at that time were not accurate enough for crown my Stanley miter box filled the bill. mike

Assuming this saw would be accurate enough for crown, the 4″ X 6″ capacity would be greater than most miter saws. And the price is a whole lot less than some. There are larger sizes at far more money in this style also.

1 HP 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw

Amazing deals on this 4In X 6In Hor/Vert Metal Cutting Band Saw at Harbor Freight. Quality tools low prices.

The basic design would use a pivoting head with a vertical twisted blade and an angle vise, but the capacity could be as large as 12″ X 12″. I have two metal cutting saws, one is as described above, but the other has a rolling carriage which carries the blade and motor assembly down a sloped ramp. It still uses a twisted blade for increased capacity:

Roll-In Saw | Vertical Band Saws

www.rollinsaw.com

Wisdom comes with age and experience. So, I try to include the reasons I have come to a certain opinion or the “whys” it will or will not work, because otherwise, it’s just unfounded blather. I try not to be that person!

kwoodhands

1 HP 4 in. x 6 in. Horizontal/Vertical Metal Cutting Band Saw

Amazing deals on this 4In X 6In Hor/Vert Metal Cutting Band Saw at Harbor Freight. Quality tools low prices.

Roll-In Saw | Vertical Band Saws

www.rollinsaw.com

I’ve cut miles of crown molding. The 4×6 saw you show is for metal as you know. I also have a HF 4×6 and would never attempt to cut crown or any molding with it.

I never cut crown flat, so I would do it just like a miter saw. upside down and 45’s.

I would make a miter box with 2×4 walls tall enough and wide enough to hold the crown at a 45° tilt. Make two opposing 45° plumb cuts to guide the saw. Insert the crown upside down and cut the 45°.

I would check the walls first, outside corners are often less than 90.

I believe you meant 38° instead of 45 °. Most crown is 38/52 ° although I have run into 45° crown a couple of times. I also cut crown upside down and backwards against the fence. Very wide crown can be cut on the flat. I never liked cutting crown on the flat as it tends to move slightly and is a pain to clamp down on the table. I made a bevel square just like the 6 or 8″ ones you buy but mine is 18″x 24″ and made from maple. I use it for outside corners as it is much more accurate than the 8″ store bought ones. I divide the angle with an angle divider. I do not use the degrees shown on this tool as mine is not very accurate. Instead the tool is lined up with the edge of the throat plate,not the saw cut. I cope the crown with a saber saw after the inside miter is cut. The saw base is left at 90° and when run against the mitered cut, the coped piece is done. Usually have to sand a bit here and there with a couple of different shaped wood sticks with PSA 100 grit paper on them. mike

Lovegasoline

It could be done with a hand held circular saw but it might take some doing. If the molding is small enough you might just pick up a wooden miter box and cut it with a hand saw. You would put the molding in the miter box on an angle just like it fits on the wall.

Frankly I’m looking for the most expeditious, simplest, and least daunting method based on the resources I have.

A circular saw seems too challenging to me. As mentioned I tried the miter box (albeit a beat-out miter box with widened kerfs) with the Ryobe but it wasn’t precise. My Japanese saws without a rigid back, despite working on the pull, don’t seem to be the tool for the job (while the ones with rigid back are too shallow in blade depth to make the cut).

The basic miters boxes I see on sale are too small to do 4.5″ mitered molding. The next step up in handsaw mitering are the more complex boxes with integrated saws, which would require investing considerably in a tool I only need for four cuts. As mentioned I’ve made it approx. 35 years or so without one of these or a chopsaw.

Lovegasoline

I’ve cut miles of crown molding. The 4×6 saw you show is for metal as you know. I also have a HF 4×6 and would never attempt to cut crown or any molding with it.

I believe you meant 38° instead of 45 °. Most crown is 38/52 ° although I have run into 45° crown a couple of times. I also cut crown upside down and backwards against the fence. Very wide crown can be cut on the flat. I never liked cutting crown on the flat as it tends to move slightly and is a pain to clamp down on the table. I made a bevel square just like the 6 or 8″ ones you buy but mine is 18″x 24″ and made from maple. I use it for outside corners as it is much more accurate than the 8″ store bought ones. I divide the angle with an angle divider. I do not use the degrees shown on this tool as mine is not very accurate. Instead the tool is lined up with the edge of the throat plate,not the saw cut. I cope the crown with a saber saw after the inside miter is cut. The saw base is left at 90° and when run against the mitered cut, the coped piece is done. Usually have to sand a bit here and there with a couple of different shaped wood sticks with PSA 100 grit paper on them. mike

How to cut crown moulding flat.

Steve Neul

Frankly I’m looking for the most expeditious, simplest, and least daunting method based on the resources I have.

Without a compound miter saw it just gets more difficult. If you have a disc sander you could miter the molding on a wooden miter box and where it doesn’t fit you could true it up by grinding the high places off. If the wooden miter box has sides that are too low you could make one that was bigger. If you don’t like a motorized saw you might consider a saw of this type. VINTAGE HWI MITER BOX #36241. Saw / Woodworking | eBay

shoot summ

If they were measly cuts they would be done already. They are compound angle cuts that need a miter system of sorts, you’ve already determined that your manual miter box isn’t viable, so a power miter box is your best option for producing an acceptable result. Other than that if you are good enough, and patient enough you might be able to mark, and use the Japanese saw, would likely be faster to just go rent a saw though.

From an install perspective I’ve found spring miter clamps to be very useful on outside miters like that, and a pin nailer.

B Coll

I’m ready to install some crown molding. a first for me. But how to cut it? I do NOT own a chop saw!

None of my tools seem suited to the task.

You can also cut crown on a table saw, the same way you would cut it on a miter saw if cutting the crown on the flat. You will need a miter gauge. You need to know whether the crown is a 52/38 or a 45/45. If it is other than that there are trig formulas available to calculate the angles. 52/38 the miter should be set at 31.62 and the bevel at 33.86. for 45/45 the miter would be set at 35.26 and the bevel at 30.00. In the case of a table saw your miter gauge would be the miter cut and the blade tilt will become the bevel.

Best Miter Saw for Crown Molding

If you want to give your home a stylish look, installing crown moldings is one of the best options-it is a classic addition to a home’s décor. Nonetheless, when installing moldings, you must cut their lengths at specific angles to suitably fit into the room’s corners. You can easily make and customize the cuts by using a miter saw at whatever angle you cut your moldings.

A miter saw is the heart of virtually any woodworking workspace. Miter saws (handy power tools) smoothen the crown cutting process, and to help you ease your experience and do a professional job, we have listed the best miter saws for crown moldings.

This guide has outlined 4 top miter saws that will ease your work and help you cut moldings like an expert. Furthermore, we have also highlighted a few factors to help you get the right miter saw for your crown molding project.

The Top 3 Best Miter Saws for Crown Molding

DeWALT Double Bevel Sliding Miter Saw (Dws780). Top Pick

The DWS780 is among the best crown molding saws available. This 12-inch DeWALT model comes with a Smart lighting system (XPS) that improves accuracy and a potent 15-amp motor delivering 3800 RPM power to cut through moldings with ease. It also features a tall, firm fence that supports (6-3/4-inch) of its base molding (vertically) and (7-1/2-inches) of the nested crown.

This double bevel saw is an ideal crown molding cutting saw since it boasts the most popular positive stops, mainly 22.5, 33.9, 49, 45, and 0 inches for both left and right with miter angles ranging between 0-60 degrees (left) and 0-50 degrees (right). Essentially, this boosts your productivity while performing repetitive cuts.

The 12-inch DeWALT sliding miter saw is a valuable companion for many job sites; it comes with a decent and tough (stainless steel) plate, a unique bevel system, and sturdy fences and guards, a blend of qualities that makes a perfect miter saw. You can perfectly remodel, cut moldings, carpentry (furniture), and DIY works with this saw.

Bosch GCM12SD Sliding Glide Saw. Premium Pick

The Bosch GCM12SD miter saw boasts a high level of acclamation from pro woodworkers, primarily because of its axial glide system, which works effectively. Nonetheless, this miter saw is efficient and durable and will ensure your crown molding designs are seamless. It offers a 15-amp power voltage which is ideal for multiple tasks, including crown molding.

over, the Bosch GCM 12SD comes with a fast-release dual square lock mechanism that incorporates sizable crown molding designs measuring a vertical length of 6.5″ and a 6.5″ width dimension.

In addition, this miter saw contains a dust collection feature which has a 90% proficiency. The Bosch GCM 12SD holds a detailed miter scale which allows for quick and flawless crown molding cuts. Besides that, it also features a double 47-degree bevel angle both to the right and to the left.

This miter saw weighs 88 pounds, and its pricing on the market is high, though worth your investment.

Ideally, this type of miter saw best suits compact crown molding workshops due to the axial glide system, which is just amazing.

Hitachi C12RSH2 Compound Miter Saw (with Laser Marker). Budget Pick

If you happen to be on a tight budget but still in need of an efficient and affordable miter saw for your crown molding project, consider getting the Hitachi C12RSH2. This miter saw is best for dissecting large crown molding pieces but can also do for medium-sized crown molding projects.

The Hitachi C12RSH2 comprises uniquely designed features that facilitate accurate crown molding cuts. Among the features is its zero rear clearance, which allows it to settle against the wall, especially in compact workshops. In addition, this miter saw contains a laser beam that facilitates precise cuts for your crown molding designs.

over, the Hitachi C12RSH2 pertains to a sliding fence mechanism that helps support huge crown moldings measuring 5 1/8″ of width and can cut crown moldings with a vertical height of 7.5″. Tilt angles on this miter saw differ from side to side with a 45 degrees tilt angle to the left and a 57-degree tilt angle to the right. Its bevel angle ranges from 0-45 degrees on both sides.

This crown molding miter saw also has a dust collecting system and a dust bin, ensuring clean working environments. Its tight grip design helps minimize vibrations hence allowing for accurate cuts. The Hitachi C12RSH2 weighs approximately 59 pounds.

What to Consider When Buying a Crown Molding Miter Saw

Purchasing or pinpointing the ideal miter saw for your crown molding designs can sometimes prove hard a thing to do. This is more so as a result of their diverse models available on the market. As such, you may fall prey to the counterfeit or rogue miter saw dealers and ultimately end up with miter saws that derail your crown molding endeavors.

To avoid such encounters, we have detailed some of the unique features miter saws portray. Some of the critical factors are;

Cutting Capacity and Speed

Miter saws tend to have diverse cutting capacities, distinguishable by their varying levels and maneuvers of cutting. The same applies to their speed. Each of these dynamics affects the degree of cutting and appeal of your crown molding ideas.

Therefore, if you happen to be a beginner or professional in the crown molding sector, it is recommended that you get a miter saw with effective cutting and speed capacities depending on the magnitude of your crown molding activity.

Blade Size

Miter saws come with various blade sizes ranging from 8″-12″. Ideally, those with huge blades are more likely to be versatile during cutting tasks allowing you to cut through different materials required for your crown molding efficiently. Larger blades tend to make your cutting flawless and effortless at the same time.

Dust Collection System

Clean working environments undoubtedly promote good and healthy workflow. Most Miter saws are equipped with a dust collection mechanism that ensures your working space is clean. The dust collection feature accumulates dust from your crown molding activity in a trash bag located on your miter saw rear.

Laser Guidance (Accuracy)

To achieve that distinct and clean-cut, be sure to purchase a miter saw with a laser guidance feature. This unique ad-in on miter saws allows you to place a laser beam on your crown molding material’s surface, giving you a road map to make accurate cuts.

Power (High Efficient Motor)

Before or when purchasing a miter saw, it is also necessary to counter-check its motor. A miter saw’s effectiveness is highly dependent on a functioning motor. In addition, efficient motors determine the longevity of your miter saw. Therefore it is good to look at your crown molding magnitude to gauge the amount of power needed since motors come in different power voltages.

Conclusion

Choosing the right miter saw to work on your crown molding task is not a difficult task, and it gets much easier when you follow specific guidelines. With these few tips, and a review of the four best options in the market, your shopping experience should be easy and satisfactory.

Crown molding miter saw

What size of molding to use? When looking at our crown molding you will notice a measurement called “Breadth”. This is the size of the facing of the molding and can be used to determine how large you want the molding to appear on your ceiling. Here are some general guidelines that are all based on my opinion (so feel free to choose your own size even if it is outside my figures):

Small-Medium Room 8′ Ceiling: 2″. 5″ Breadth 10′ Ceiling: 4″. 8″ Breadth 12′ Ceiling: 6″. 10″ Breadth 14′ Ceiling: 8″ or wider Breadth

Large Room 8′ Ceiling: 4″. 7″ Breadth 10′ Ceiling: 5″. 10″ Breadth 12′ Ceiling: 7″. 11″ Breadth 14′ Ceiling: 9″ or wider Breadth

Inside Corner-Left Piece

Inside Corner-Left Piece When you are at your miter saw have the long part of the molding extend out to the left. Move the saw angle to your right to the 45° mark for a 90° corner or your calculated angle for an angled corner. Make sure the top of the molding is on the saw deck and the bottom is facing you. Hold the molding at the correct angle and make your cut.

inside Corner-Right Piece

Inside Corner-Right Piece When you are at your miter saw have the long part of the molding extend out to the right. Move the saw angle to your left to the 45° mark for a 90° corner or your calculated angle for an angled corner. Make sure the top of the molding is on the saw deck and the bottom is facing you. Hold the molding at the correct angle and make your cut.

Outside Corner-Left Piece

Outside Corner-Left Piece When you are at your miter saw have the long part of the molding extend out to the left. Move the saw angle to your left to the 45° mark for a 90° corner or your calculated angle for an angled corner. Make sure the top of the molding is on the saw deck and the bottom is facing you. Hold the molding at the correct angle and make your cut.

Outside Corner-Right Piece

Outside Corner-Right Piece When you are at your miter saw have the long part of the molding extend out to the right. Move the saw angle to your right to the 45° mark for a 90° corner or your calculated angle for an angled corner. Make sure the top of the molding is on the saw deck and the bottom is facing you. Hold the molding at the correct angle and make your cut.

Two Methods to cut crown molding http://voices.yahoo.com/cutting-installing-crown-molding-easy-way-225878.html There are two methods of cutting crown molding to fit them. One is to position the molding on the miter saw’s fence and table at the same angle it will be when it’s installed against the wall and ceiling. In that case, the conventional 45-degree miters are the correct cuts. And that’s the way most instructions tell you to do it. However, that method can present a major problem. It may not work. If your miter saw doesn’t have a high enough fence to rest the molding against, especially when wide molding is used, you’d be out of luck. Plus, if you don’t position the piece perfectly, the cut will be wrong. Fortunately, there’s another way.

It’s much easier to cut the molding while it’s laying flat on the saw’s table and against the fence. The height of the fence and width of the molding aren’t an issue. But in order to do this, the miter will have to be set at an angle other than 45 degrees. The correct angle to set the miter is 31.6 degrees. There’s another angle involved, and that is the bevel. the angle to set the blade. That is 33.9 degrees. Fortunately, all power miter saws have the angles clearly marked, and many of them already have these correct crown molding angles highlighted, so it’s a simple matter of setting them. The machine may even have a miter locking stop at 31.6, which makes it even easier. Remember, these angles will only work for cuts made when the molding is placed flat on the saw’s table. There are four basic miter cuts for crown molding. They are inside left (IL), inside right (IR), outside left, (OL), and outside right (OR). For all four of these cuts, the miter is set at 31.6 degrees, and the bevel is set at 33.9 degrees. The only changes you will make to the saw will be setting the miter left or right.

Following are the procedures for the four basic cuts. Remember, the bevel is always set at 33.9 degrees, and the finished side of the molding is always facing up. Refer to photos. IL (inside left) Miter setting 31.6 degrees RIGHT. Top of molding is placed against saw’s fence. The left piece will be the finished piece after the cut. IR (inside right) Miter setting 31.6 degrees LEFT. Bottom of molding is placed against saw’s fence. The left piece will be the finished piece after the cut. OL (outside left) Miter setting 31.6 degrees LEFT. Bottom of molding is placed against saw’s fence. The right piece will be the finished piece after the cut. OR (outside right) Miter setting 31.6 degrees RIGHT. Top of molding is placed against saw’s fence. The right piece will be the finished piece after the cut.

Cut Crown Molding using DeWALT Miter Saw http://www.DeWALT.com/featured-articles/cutting-crown-molding-with-DeWALT-miter-saws.aspx

How to Cut Crown Molding with a Miter Saw

One of the most common issues when remodeling your home is figuring out how to cut crown molding with a miter saw.

If you’ve decided to take this project upon yourself, this guide is for you!

The simple addition of crown molding adds so much character to a home and puts that finishing touch on any room.

But what happens when you start a project only to realize you don’t have all of the tools required?

You may find yourself at Home Depot or Lowes – again – staring down an aisle of miter saws as we did!

How to choose? How do they work? What features should you look for?

Disclaimer: This page contains affiliate links. As an Amazon affiliate, this site earns a small commission for all qualifying purchases.

How to Cut Crown Molding with a Miter Saw

Cutting crown molding can seem very overwhelming at first, but this daunting task is actually quite simple with the right tools.

The quick, clean cuts made possible with a compound miter saw makes an otherwise impossible task seem easy.

Miter saws allow you to make accurate cuts at different angles quickly. When you have several yards of crown molding to cut and install – you definitely don’t want to be trying to cut them all by hand!

Compound miter saws allow the head and blade to be rotated at a variety of angles, allowing for much more than just 90-degree cuts.

The most challenging part of cutting and installing crown molding is inarguably the corners.

Getting two complete pieces of molding to fit together (such as for a long wall in a home with an open floorplan) isn’t as tricky as trying to piece together how and what to cut to create both inside and outside corners!

Each corner of your home requires both a miter and a bevel angle of molding to be cut. Accuracy when making these cuts is essential, and they should ideally be done simultaneously for precision.

Compound miter saws allow both miter and bevel cuts to be done at the same time by manipulating the saw a certain way.

Going a step further, compound miter saws with a dual-bevel feature make the work even easier with the ability to tilt both left and right, eliminating the need to reposition your trim piece and readjust the angles. (See the end of this article for reviews of some top-rated compound miter saws)

Best Miter Saw For Trim and Crown Moulding? (Dewalt DWS780)

Assuming a 90-degree angle between your walls, the typical standard measurements for your cuts will be 33.85 for your bevel and 31.62 for your miter.

It is always a good idea to check your cuts and angles on a few scrap pieces of molding to ensure they fit your room.

It also doesn’t hurt to make a few practice cuts if this is your first time learning how to use a miter saw!

Always follow your device’s specific operating and safety instructions and wear protective eye gear when making your molding cuts.

Note: Some woodworkers will stress the need for “coping” or under-cutting your molding to fit at any odd angle that might be in your home.

Due to framing errors, drywall compound buildup, and other construction variables, many walls do not meet at a perfect 90 degrees.

However, for a simple home DIY project, you are probably safe to start assuming a 90-degree angle and make any needed adjustments.

Even with a perfect fit, weather changes can still cause gaps in your miter joints, so it may not be worth your trouble to spend much time trying to learn the coping method or trying to measure and calculate the perfect angles for each corner in your home.

Crown Molding Templates For A Miter Saw

When you are cutting crown molding with a miter saw, the measurements and settings needed to get it all just right can be very confusing and overwhelming.

To top it all off, inside and outside corners are cut with different settings. Templates help provide a visual guide for each piece and what to do when.

Crown molding templates are small precut pieces of molding that are labeled and can then be copied for each necessary cut.

You can buy them premade or cut your own using scrap pieces of trim.

You’ll want to make sure the template you use matches the spring angle of your molding. Spring angle – or the angle between the crown and the wall – can vary, but the most common is 38 degrees.

Some miter saws come pre-set to the settings needed for a 38-degree spring angle.

You will need four templates: outside corner right, outside corner left, inside corner right, and inside corner left.

As mentioned, the standard bevel is 33.85, and the standard miter is 31.62 for a 38-degree spring angle molding.

If you want to cut your own templates, check out this great visual guide.

Cutting Crown Molding Outside Corners with a Miter Saw

Your outside corners are the pieces of molding used for the junctions of walls that jut out or transition to other rooms.

For example – hallways or entryways. When your cut pieces are laid flat on the table in front of you, you can’t see the cuts – only the face.

Having your templates ready will help a ton when it comes to keeping it all straight.

The exact cutting method will depend very much on which type of compound miter saw you have, whether you have a sliding saw, are using the fence or the flat, and whether or not your machine is dual-bevel all make a difference in how the cuts are made.

Measure each wall in the area you are installing the molding in
Label each piece of molding on the backside with a pencil
You’ll want to include whether each piece is left or right and the desired length
Position the molding in the saw as desired for flat or fence cuts
Manipulate the miter saw as needed for the bevel and miter cuts

Cutting Crown Molding Inside Corners with a Miter Saw

Inside corners are used for the corners of connecting walls within the same room. When your cut pieces are laid flat on the table in front of you, you will see the exposed edges and cuts.

Having your templates ready will help very much in not getting mixed up.

The exact cutting method will depend very much on which type of compound miter saw you have.

Measure each wall in the room you are installing the molding in
Label each piece of molding on the backside with a pencil
You’ll want to include whether each piece is left or right and the desired length
Position the molding in the saw as desired for flat or fence cuts
Manipulate the miter saw as needed for the bevel and miter cuts

Top-Rated Compound Miter Saws for Crown Molding

If you’re only doing a room or 2, and don’t plan on using your saw for many more projects, you’ll probably want to stick with the basics – and stay within your budget.

But if you have many rooms to complete or anticipate that you may need this type of tool again in the future, you may not mind a splurge to get the best of the best.

Then, of course, there are also many options in the middle, which provide some premium features at a good price.

Read on below for a few different compound miter saw reviews and how they stack up for cutting crown molding!

DWS779 12-Inch Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw

Stainless steel miter detent plate of the 12-inch miter saw blade comes with 10 positive stops
The mitre saw has a precise miter system and machined base fence support
Precise miter system and machined base fence support Cam-lock miter handle with detent override delivers quick and accurate miter angles for DeWALT miter saw
Tall sliding fences support 6-3/4-inch base vertically
Bevels 0 degree – 48degree left and right

With its 15-amp motor, speed of 3800 RPM, and ability to cut materials of up to 6 3/4 inch thickness – the DeWALT DWS779 is an excellent value for woodworkers of all skill levels.

Purchasers agree that the DWS779 makes accurate cuts, is easy to use, and is well-built and durable.

This model is also powerful yet quiet. Reviewers also praised this model’s sophisticated dust collection system, which captures up to 75% of the dust.

Another notable advantage of this particular saw is DeWALT’S excellent 3-year limited warranty.

This model’s exclusive design allows for easier cuts of molding. Its tall back fence accommodates crown molding up to 7 1/2 inches nested and base molding up to 6 ¾ inches.

The DWS779 miters 60 degrees to the right and 50 degrees to the left, and the integrated CUTLINE Blade Positioning System allows for smooth and precise cuts.

As a sliding compound saw, this model can handle thicker trims with no problem.

With a double-bevel feature, molding cuts are even quicker and easier without having to reposition your trim and angle to make the second cut.

Overall, a saw of this caliber should make quick work of any trim-cutting project.

Some found it a bit too large and cumbersome for their tastes, or heavier than they expected. They asked me to let you know that you should mount the saw to a DeWALT miter saw stand if you anticipate transporting it often.

No laser guidance system exists, but an LED shadow light can be added for around 70.

The quick addition of DeWALT’S signature XPS guide light (if desired) essentially converts this saw into the newer DWS780 model.

Overall, the DeWALT DWS779 is a perfect miter saw for the money and an excellent choice for your crown molding projects.

Metabo HPT C10FCGS 10-Inch Compound Miter Saw

MOTOR: 15 Amp motor delivers high power for the toughest of cuts generating a no-load speed of up to 5,000 RPM
LIGHTWEIGHT: Only 24.2 lbs. to facilitate maneuverability and portability
MITER ANGLE RANGE: 0-52 degrees, to the right and left for increased flexibility
BEVEL RANGE: 0-45 degrees, to the left with adjustable bevel stops for precision cuts
LARGE TABLE: Offers better material support with vice clamping system to secure work piece

This cheaper option still packs a powerful punch. Its 15-amp motor can produce up to 5,000 RPM.

My testers praise this saw for having excellent precision and versatility in its price class.

Although it is a basic model, this saw still comes with its own dust collection bag to cut down on the mess.

And unlike some deluxe saws, the Metabo HPT C10FCGS is lightweight and easy to transport.

While not a dual-bevel machine, the C10FCGS still offers a 0 to the 45-degree bevel range to the left and a 0 to 52-degree miter range to the left right, making it adequate for most amateur crown molding projects.

But of course, as with anything else – you get what you pay for. This model’s short fence can only handle trim less than 3” high, and all others will need to be cut on the flat instead of vertically.

As can usually be expected from a lower-priced product, we noticed some quality or longevity issues.

It also lacks features common in more expensive saws, such as laser guidance, dual-bevel cuts, and sliding rails.

In short, if none of the pricey frills matter to you, and you only need a compound miter saw for the occasional project, the Metabo HPT C10FCGS is still a solid, top-rated budget option.

Bosch GCM12SD 12-Inch Compound Miter Saw- OUR WINNER

AXIAL GLIDE SYSTEM: patented glide system allows wider cross cuts and better alignment while also being compact, saving you 12 inches of valuable work space
CAPACITY: expanded cutting capacity, 14 inch horizontal capacity nominal 6 1/2 inch vertical capacity against the fence base 6 1/2 inch crown capacity against the fence 45 spring
ADJUSTABLE: provides easy adjustments with a large, easy-to-read uniform bevel and stainless steel miter scales with marked detentes and roof pitch angles; Bevel detents: 0, 33.9 degree, 45 degree left/right for accurate cuts; Category’s best 90 percentage dust collection optimized for cutting 2x material with a vacuum
PRECISION: square lock quick release fences lock fence 90 degree to the table and requires no adjustment, 1 touch lock/unlock to slide fence for added support
EASE OF USE: upfront bevel controls all metal bevel lock lever and range selector located upfront for quick and easy bevel settings without reaching behind the saw

The Bosch GCM12SD is well-made and easy to use, with a 15-amp motor capable of producing 3,800 RPM.

We love its axial-glide system, space-saving design, and effective dust collection. As a sliding compound saw, this model can easily cut materials much thicker than non-sliding models.

This prestigious saw has a reputation as a solid workhorse that will last. My team loves its accurate, precise cuts as well as its quick-release fence.

This model’s glide mechanism helps make cuts smooth, clean, and accurate.

Many features make the GCM12SD ideal for crown molding projects. Trim cutters liked that the bevel adjustment is located in the front, saving time when making many cuts.

This model can cut any size of molding, and optional “crown stops” can assist in cutting molding.

With a horizontal cutting capacity of 14 inches and a tall fence accommodating up to 6 1/2 inches for vertical cuts, there’s no piece of trim that wouldn’t fit in this model.

With the dual-bevel feature, you can make compound cuts in both directions without turning the molding over.

Regarding disadvantages, according to some of my guys, you may want to change the blade or upgrade it for certain jobs like finishing work.

Also, the GCM12SD is heavy, weighing in at 65 pounds.

You are definitely going to want a miter saw table or stand with wheels if you plan on ever moving this thing around.

Overall, this model is an excellent option that should last you many years and many projects to come.

As one of my guys noted, with this model, Bosch has “thought of everything.”

For serious woodworkers or anyone else who wants the best of the best – you can’t go wrong with the Bosch GCM12SD.

Wrapping it Up

The task of learning how to cut crown molding with a miter saw might seem daunting at first. I know. I’ve been there.

But with the right tools, the right templates, and the right knowledge – this massive home improvement project will be completed in no time!

Sources:

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/threads/cutting-crown-molding-miters-without-chop-saw.228780/
https://woodworking-tool-guide.com/best-miter-saw-for-crown-molding/
https://tiejunwang.weebly.com/crown-molding.html
https://diyspotlight.com/how-to-cut-crown-molding-with-a-miter-saw