- The 1/3 HP, 120V motor with 3.5 Amp and 3450 RPM is CSA listed for high performance and reliability.
- This versatile combo tool combines a 2″x42″ belt sander and a 6″ bench grinder, making it ideal for general-purpose sanding and finishing on a variety of materials, including metals, wood, and plastics. The included high-quality metal sanding belt ensures long-lasting performance.
- The belt can be positioned vertically or horizontally for added flexibility, and the cast iron work table provides excellent support during sharpening tasks.
- Equipped with a 6-inch 60-grit white grinding wheel with a tool-free adjustable eyeshield and LED light.
- Belt changes are quick and easy thanks to the quick-release tension and tracking mechanism. The removable belt platen allows for contour sanding, and the swiveling belt housing can be adjusted from horizontal to vertical to accommodate longer workpieces.
The belt platen is conveniently adjustable for contour sanding, and the belt can be easily tracked and replaced without any tools.
The grinder features a tool-free adjustable eyeshield and LED light powered by a battery, ensuring a safe and illuminated work environment. The full belt guard, fast belt tensioning, easy belt tracking knob, and tool-free belt changes make the operation effortless. Additionally, a dust port is included for easy cleanup.
The sander is designed with two sturdy workbenches made of cast iron and aluminum, providing added convenience for sanding tasks.
The Sander meets CSA standard
|Wheel Size: 6″ x 1″ x 1/2″|
|Wheel Speed: 3450RPM|
|2″ x 42″|
|Belt Grit:120 # Wheel Grit:60 #|
BG2600 2″ x 42″ Belt Sander 6″ Bench Grinder Combo
Nice construction, on my list of tools that I am proud to have.
I sell power tools for a living and this grinder is a quality built tool. It did come in with the light above the grinder wheel cracked due to shipper, but customer service has me one on the way. Very fast response time.
Bought the BG2600 for working with Damascus Steel handmade divot tools and ball markers in the golf industry along with pendant jewelry. Outstanding performance and rugged for doing intricate hand grinding of pieces. Soldily made although the dust cover on the side of belt is a little lightweight. Not an issue though. Belt change is quick. Built in LEDs on 6″ rock is bright. Perfect little machine that is tough.
6” Bench Grinder 2” x 42” Sander Combo BG2600
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Buy or built a belt grinder for knive making: 3 great tips
Buying a belt sander. Making knives. How to get a belt grinder for knife making. Use the belt grinder to work with metal. Since most belt sanders don’t really meet my requirements within my budget, I started looking. I’m not really tied to sizes because I can have them made to any size I want. Of course, it’s a bit of figuring out in terms of speed and so on what gives the best result without burning material compared to the wear and tear on the tyres themselves. Here are 3 tips for the belt grinder for knife making.
Buy a belt sander or build a belt grinder yourself.
Tip 1 Buy a belt sander and do not build a belt grinder yourself.
You can use the belt grinder for knife making as a belt grinder for metal. The belt grinder can also work on wood and other materials. Do you want to make knives or build machines? That is the question. Because building a belt grinder for knives yourself can sometimes take a year or more. Buying a belt grinder allows you to get started right away with your belt grinder for knives. and you can also restore machines, (also suprisingly fun!) and do many other things with the belt grinder for knives making. Buying a belt grinder may be boring, but you can start right away. But buy a good one, with CE mark, with guarantee and one that will last a long time. A machine from Aldi or Alibaba can be thrown away after a year. Batko is a machine for a lifetime.
Belt grinder for knife making must be CE and have many accessories.
Tip 2 Belt grinder for knife making must be CE and have many accessories.
Now that you know that belt grinder DIY or a cheap machine have disadvantages, you can look for the supplier of a good belt sander for knives. Look for a belt grinder that meets two conditions. The machine must be CE approved. Then it complies with the EU machine directive and is safe. Never buy a belt grinder for knives without a CE mark! It is forbidden and even punishable. The second condition is that you should pay attention to the attachments. The attachments of the belt sander9ne for knives are important. Because the best belt grinders for knives offer many attachments, such as a support arm with roller sets, a large wheel, a knife jig or grindding jig and various working plates. If you are thinking of buying a belt grinder, go 100% for a belt grinder that can tilt. Batko 3000XL is a tilting model. A tip might be that you want a decent belt grinder for knives. Batko is a well-known and reliable machine for knife makers. It is very solid and will last a lifetime. If you sell it, you get a decent price in return.
Building your own belt sander.
Tip 3 Building your own belt grinder.
When building a belt grinder yourself, I think the biggest challenge is finding all the individual parts in the right sizes/ratios. Go and have a look at technical wholesalers for bearing blocks, bearings etc. Bolts and nuts can be found there too, just like the sanding belts. And what will it cost? The hardest part of making these machines yourself is the precise alignment of the wheels. If not accurate, the belt will come off in no time, and an adjustable speed to change the belt speed is very practical. And the drive wheel of the belt grinder is crucial for speed. Making a good belt grinder for knives costs money, but so does building one yourself. The cost of building a belt grinder yourself can sometimes be even higher than buying one. There is also the risk that the belt grinder for knives runs badly. Then all your money is wasted, because you then think; buying a belt sander would have been better. And then you don’t have all the accessories that a bought belt grinder has, such as extra work plates, rollers with bearings etc.
The Batko belt grinder is a belt grinder for the professional but also for the individual who wants something good. A Batko belt grinder can also be used for other things, such as restoration machines, instruments and musical instruments or, in short, anything that can be made with metal and wood. Batko is the name of the belt grinder for knives, even though people sometimes say Batco or Bakto. There is a Batko1400XL and a Batko3000XL.
Introduction: DIY Bench Grinder to Belt Sander Conversion With Templates
About: We’re Laura and Louis. Laura is an educator and Louis is an engineer. With our powers combined, we make things and try to show everyone how we tackle projects in hopes to inspire others to get up and create! About imee made »
This Instructable will show you how we turned a bench grinder into a belt sander!
You can check out the entire build video on YouTube linked above. (We would also appreciate a like and sharing if you think it’s worth it :))
This bench grinder has served us well over the years, but we needed a sanding configuration that allows us to quickly remove more material when working with metal and the stone discs just don’t cut it.
We decided to retrofit this guy instead of buying a proper 2×72 belt sander because 1) 2×72 belt sanders are way out of our budget and 2) we don’t have the shop real estate to accommodate the footprint.
Here is the list of supplies we used: (These are affiliate links where we earn a small commission at no extra cost to you, Thank you!)
2 x 42 inch Sanding Belt Assortment: https://amzn.to/3d6KKLG
Step 1: Disassembling the Bench Grinder
In order fit the retrofitted components, we removed the guards and the wheel from one side of the grinder. This process is a little different from grinder to grinder, but just a few phillips bolts to take off the guard and a locking nut to remove the grinding wheel. The locking nut on the shaft is left handed threads so the saying is backwards ” righty loosey, lefty tighty”
It doesn’t matter which side you choose to retrofit, we wanted to keep the wire wheel and it worked well for our shop.
Step 2: Templates
We modeled everything on Fusion 360 and printed the sketches to scale, so we can use as templates.
There is a PDF of the templates if you want to try the retrofit your own! The only modification is the mounting hole locations vary from grinder to grinder, so use your old shield to transfer the hole locations.
Step 3: Cutting Out the Shapes
Using spray adhesive, we stuck the templates onto 3/16” steel plate and roughly cut them out with our angle grinder and cut off wheel as well as our bandsaw for the finer cuts.
Step 4: Drilling All the Holes
Moving over to the drill press, we drilled out all the mounting holes using a small bit as a pilot, then drilling them to size with a step bit. The remaining material for the slots were removed with the Band saw.
We removed the sticky paper and did the final shaping for all the pieces with a flap disc.
Step 5: Tracking Roller Hinge
To make the mounting bracket for the top pulley, we cut out a small square and drilled a hole in the center. Using a bolt to align the hole from the bracket with the pivot arm and a nut as a spacer in between we welded a make-shift hinge. Just two small tacks on either side is enough.
Step 6: Dry Fitting All the Pieces
With everything prepped, we can dry fit all the pieces.
The first thing is securing the main body by the three bolts…. Unfortunately I didn’t measure the hole spacing correctly when modeling, so we were off a bit. Using the guard that we removed earlier as a template, we marked where we needed to elongate the holes and filed them out.
Step 7: Backing Plate and Rest.
After bolting everything up, we cut a few square pieces to use as the backing for the sander as well as the rest. We first aligned the backing and tacked it into place then positioned the rest making sure it’s perpendicular to the backing plate and tacked that in place. Once we were happy with the position, we removed it from the assembly and welded them completely.
Step 8: Final Assembly
After everything cooled down, we sprayed a quick coat of paint and assembled everything onto the bench grinder.
Following the anticipation of turning the grinder on with all the components, we were thoroughly disappointed.
One major item we didn’t account for in the beginning was the power of our bench grinder. It was news to us, but our Craftsman is rated at 1/6hp and with all the added rotational mass, it never got up to full speed let along grind anything.
Luckily after searching through Offerup we found someone down the street selling a 1hp grinder with a super heavy duty stand for a steal, so we scooped that up!
Step 9: Disassembly!
The only modification we had to do was re-drill the mounting holes since the 1hp grinder had a larger hole spacing. Similar to before, we used the guard as a template to get the correct spacing.
Step 10: Final Assembly
This time around, we took paid extra attention to the spacing of the pulleys making sure to use extra washers where needed so that they’re all on the same plane. We just used a straight edge against the faces of the pulley to check this.
Step 11: A Functional Belt Sander!
After tightening everything down, we had a functional belt sander!
What a difference a 1hp unit makes, it eats through steel like it’s butter.
Thank you for reading our Instructable!
If you liked the project, don’t forget to share it. Комментарии и мнения владельцев and feedback are always welcome.
You can check out our other projects here on Instructables as well as our YouTube channel IMEE MADE.
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Комментарии и мнения владельцев
hi, do you have the fusion 360 file to share?
What type welder did you use. Looks like a Plasma Arc or Laser? I need to purchase some type of “cheap” welding system.
WAY to expensive to build using included links (as others have pointed out).Why build something that cost way more than buying it. and isn’t any better?If you already own a bench-grinder, and have some scrap plywood (or can get it cheap) then this is a nice build. Otherwise. not really.I can buy this for about 45 USD here in Sweden (Included picture).With that said. nice build though. AND. it’s ALWAYS FUN to build stuff!
Hello, I enjoyed your video and seeing how you do things. Please tell me a bit about that amazing little welder you used. Where could I get one like that? Thank you.
Thank you! It’s a budget TIG welder from Harbor freight, which unfortunately they don’t sell anymore. but here’s a machine that’s similar to what I’m using: https://amzn.to/3i59So2
Did you use inert gas when you welded in the video? Obviously I don’t know much about it but I’m trying to learn. Thank you.
Yes, for this I use 100% Argon gas when welding. No worries! Feel free to ask away, I honestly don’t mind and love to help. learning is always encouraged!!
Looks like a much simpler conversion than others I’ve seen. Thankyou!I did felt that the instruction seemed to miss the assembly of the backing plate and rest plate, (once I saw the downloadable template this made a little more sense but this could be improved). Also not sure why the tracking roller hinge is required.
Thank you! I agree, I could have went into more details for the backing and rest plate.
The hinge is just a solution to adjust the tracking of the belt. Since the whole assembly can be a little off plane, using a bolt to dial in the pitch of the tracking roller helps keep the belt centered in relation to the pulleys.
Nice instructible! Very sturdy looking tool that should provide years of good use. I want to do the same as I need a belt sander to help me sharpen chisels and the like. I bought one from Harbor Fright some years ago but, not surprisingly, it turned out to be junk. I need to solve these problems first: 1. How to make the Band move upwards rather than downwards;2. How to reduce the speed of the motor; 3. How to make the parts without requiring a welder and other exotic tools.I don’t have the budget, nor space for the added tools (welder, angle-grinder, bandsaw, etc.) that I’d need to make your metal one. I figure the first problem can be handled by moving the grinding platform to the rear. essentially assembling the parts in mirror image. The second problem will require a Variable Frequency Drive which can get expensive. The last problem will require the most thought, but I thank you for the inspiration.
I would caution heavily against making the belt travel upwards. The reason bench grinders sanders rotate towards the ground is so that if they catch or snag on the belt, the workpiece will be thrown towards the floor, not up towards your face, as will any filings or ground off material.
I use the belt sander to sharpen lathe and woodworking chisels. The problem with downward travel is that the belt is traveling towards the workpiece’s sharpening edge often catching it and shoving it into the table. That can ruin a fine chisel blade and/or send it flying into your hands, feet or elsewhere. There is also no easy way to hold the chisel at the proper angle. With upward travel the table is angled downward so the blade points up making the belt travel away from the chisel edge, not towards it. It’s important to wear a face-shield anyway and stand slightly to one side to keep sparks from flying into your face, but in my mind that has to be safer than downward travel. When I need the belt sander to sand wooden or metal parts I will use it in the “normal” fashion so the belt travels downward.
Thank you! Just my 2 cents on your list of constraints:1. Yes, assembling in a mirror image would solve the problem. essentially working from the back side of the grinder so the belt direction is upwards.2. Harbor freight has an inexpensive router speed controller like this: https://amzn.to/3iTVIHz which might work, but I don’t have first hand experience with that3. You can build everything with plywood using the templates provided. Some dimensions may need to be adjusted to account for the added thickness. Another solution would be to mark all the welded joints and ask a local muffler repair shop to weld the pieces for you. I’ve asked a few shops throughout the years before getting my own welder and most of the time they are more than happy to help if they’re not super busy.
The build looks great and I’m going to add it to the list. I’m not sure if the speed controller is going to work because I believe that type of speed controller also reduces the torque. I’m not positive and I refer back to https://youtu.be/gMVIdDKgG5A.
VFDs work with induction motors which is the type used here. They apply full voltage to the motor as they vary the frequency, which in turn, varies the speed. Torque is maintained more evenly than using SCR/Triac type speed controllers, like the Harbor Freight device mentioned above, which achieve variable speed by chopping the 60 Hz line frequency every cycle or half cycle depending on whether an SCR or Triac is used. This reduces the power you can get from each cycle which reduces speed but also the torque.
I bought the Harbor Freight device some years ago but it didn’t work at all. Very poor quality control so I don’t recommend it. I ended up designing my own circuit and fitting it inside the HF box. Works for incandescent lights and corded electric drills but not much of anything else.
Thanks for the link. Mr. Fielding is very knowledgeable and gives good, clear overviews of motor and speed controller types in his videos.
Makita Cordless 3/8-Inch Belt Sander Review (XSB01)
Makita made a cordless version of their mini belt sander. The Makita cordless 3/8-inch belt sander (XSB01) comes standard with 3/8 x 21-inch belts. Able to get into tight spaces, this tool can sand wood, metal, and plastics extremely fast.
- Small and lightweight
- Easy to get into tight spaces
- Fast material removal
- Variable speed dial
- Articulating arm
- LED light that can be pointed to where you are working
Makita Cordless 3/8-inch Belt Sander Fits In Tight Spaces and Removes Material FAST!
I hate sanding with an oscillating multitool. That’s because I have used Makita’s mini belt sanders in the past, so I know exactly how fast a small sander can actually be. The difference is kind of like the difference between your Dad’s old push mower you used when you were twelve and the Bush Hogs the highway department uses to mow the interstate. The Makita cordless 3/8-inch belt sander is so fast, you should practice on scrap material first. Skip this step and you could ruin your project by removing too much material the first time you use it. It’s a good thing it has a variable speed dial!
This tool erases wood like a magic wand. In art school, we used a 1-1/8-inch corded version of Makita’s mini belt sander to actually carve wood. The 3/8-inch Makita XSB01 cordless mini belt sander will do the same and seems just as powerful, only with cordless convenience. You can use this any time you would normally use a file or rasp to shape wood or metal.
In the photo below, I carved the handle of my wooden joiner’s mallet with a rasp and file to fit my hand. I would much rather have used Makita’s cordless 3/8″ belt sander if I had one at the time.
Optional Narrow and Wider Belt Arms
Both 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch arms are available as optional accessories if you need to get into tighter areas or need a wider belt. Makita makes aluminum oxide belts. These are great for wood, metal, and plastics.
Pro tip: Aluminum clogs aluminum oxide belts very quickly. Rub beeswax on the spinning belts. This acts as a lubricant and prevents the aluminum from clogging the belt.
In art school, we used the 1-1/8-inch corded version of this sander with silicon carbide belts to sand marble and other stone. I looked everywhere on the Internet for 3/8 x 21-inch silicon carbide belts. No one seems to make this size. That means—at least for now—you can only use the Makita cordless 3/8-inch belt sander for wood, metal, and plastics. Hopefully, that will change in the future as this would be a fantastic tool for anyone installing countertops.
When cutting metal pipe or tubing with a torch, the side closest to the torch cuts clean. The inside is always a huge mess and often needs to be cleaned out. The Makita cordless 3/8-inch belt sander is the perfect tool for doing this in all but the largest stock. It is also great for cleaning up welds.
Most metal workers will instantly understand why they need one of these the first time they see one in action. Yes, using an angle grinder with a flap disk might be faster. However, this tool gets into places the grinder cannot. It’s also much safer and quieter than a grinder.
Adjusting the Angle of Attack
One of the best features of the Makita XSB01 mini belt sander is the various angle you can adjust the arm. With the flick of a lever, you can angle in from a straight tool to 90 degrees. It folds up even further than 90 degrees but that is only for storage/transportation.
Makita even thought to make the LED light tilt so you can point it in the direction you’re working. The side handle cannot be relocated to the other side of the tool. It is either on or off.
Dust Collection – My Only Complaint
On paper, the Makita XSB01 cordless 3/8” belt sander has a dust port. In reality. It does not. The dust port needs an adapter to fit a dust extractor. I ordered one. It arrived.
If you have played the dust extractor/shop vac game you know what I am about to say. Makita makes a dust port that needs an adaptor.
Unfortunately, the adaptor needs an adaptor.
No one makes an adaptor to connect this thing, or the first adaptor, to a dust extractor!
At this point, I own every adaptor made. The only solution to hook it up to anything is extremely unwieldy and if I let go, it will fall out. One day perhaps a standard size will come along! A much better solution would be a small, thin 36-inch hose that would go from the tool directly into a dust extractor—like maybe the one Makita makes! Just a suggestion.
Makita Cordless 3/8″ Belt Sander Price
Makita’s mini belt sander is available as a bare tool for 279 or as a kit with a charger and two 5.0 amp batteries for 479. On the surface that may seem expensive. However, there is nothing on the market in Makita’s class. A few other manufacturers make tools that appear to be similar but they do not have the power and performance of the Makita.
In art school, the corded version could withstand the daily use of multiple art students sanding stone for hours. The build quality of the cordless version appears to be the same standard. The warranty is three years.
Makita XSB01 Conclusion
If you are a welder or metal worker, this is a no-brainer. You are going to want this. I recently built the display below for the Polk Museum of Art and found the Makita Cordless 3/8” Belt Sander to be a fantastic tool to help me fit the buttons, shape the channels for the power cables and electronics, and the vent in the back. It was a huge help, and I used it more than I thought I would. I think any serious woodworker, cabinetmaker, or installer could make use of this tool.
Makita Cordless 3/8” Belt Sander Specifications
- Model XSB01
- 3/8 X 21-inch belt Standard – Optional 1/4 X 21-inch belt, and 1/2 x 21-inch belt
- 4-5/16-inch working sanding lenght
- Brushless motor
- Electric break
- LED Light
- Variable speed control dial (1,960 – 5,600 ft./min.)
- Dust port
- Price: 279 (bare tool), 479 (kit)