Chainsaw Chains & Guide Bars (292 items found). Different chains for chainsaws

Types of Chainsaw Chain Explained

Chainsaw chains come in all sorts of shapes and sizes – there are so many different combinations it’s sometimes impossible to know where to start. In this article, we’ll take a look at the three core dimensions of a chainsaw chain, and then discuss the pros and cons of various different types of chain.

The three key things you need to consider when looking at a chainsaw chain are pitch, gauge, and chain length. Let’s take a look at these in more detail. All are key to understand before you reach for your chainsaw sharpener.

Chain Pitch

Chain pitch is used to describe the length between two links in the chain. It is defined as the distance between two drive links, divided by two. A drive link is the link protruding from the inside of the chain. You can tell the inside of the chain because all the protrusions are identical, and shaped like shark’s teeth.

There are 4 main chain pitches – ¼”.325”, 3/8” and.404”. Selecting the correct pitch chain ensures your chain meshes properly with the sprocket on the chainsaw, and the chain doesn’t skip on the sprocket. Pitches aren’t interchangeable: if you use a 3/8” saw (by far the most common), you have to use a 3/8” pitch chain.

Chain Gauge

A chainsaw chain’s gauge describes the width of the drive teeth on the chain. This is determined mainly by the width of the notch in the chainsaw bar. There are 4 common chainsaw chain gauges:.043”.050”.058” and.063”.

Like chain pitch, chain gauge is defined by your chainsaw, and you cannot use chains that are not the correct gauge for the saw. Like the chain pitch, this is often written on your chainsaw so you can find the correct match.

Chain Length

Obvious, but nonetheless important – the length of the chainsaw chain. This is defined by the length of the bar on your chainsaw, and is measured in drive links. Too short a chain and it won’t fit on the saw, too long and you won’t be able to tension it correctly.

3/8” Standard vs. 3/8” Low Profile

There is one final dimension to consider – and it is specific to the 3/8” size chain. That is Standard Profile vs Low Profile. These two are not interchangeable, and describe the height of the link. Standard profile is a taller link, while low profile is – you guessed it – a shorter link. Both are common, and you’ll need to check to determine which is the correct type for your chainsaw.

Different Types Of Chainsaw Chain

Now we have covered the main dimensions of the chainsaw chain, you can make sure it fits your saw. But that is only half the puzzle – as there are many different types of chainsaw chain, all with different characteristics. We can’t cover them all, but we’ll discuss some of the most common.

First, let’s quickly discuss the anatomy of the chainsaw chain to enable us to discuss the differences in different types. The image below helps explain the terminology for the different parts of the chainsaw chain.

Full Chisel vs. Semi Chisel Chains

Full chisel chains have a very slightly different profile when compared to semi chisel chains. Looking from the front, you can see that the top plate corner has a square edge on a full chisel blade, and a rounded corner on a semi chisel blade.

Semi chisel blades are most common, and are the most versatile. These work well in a range of cutting conditions – including hard or soft wood and the presence of dirt. Full chisel chains cut much more efficiently, but they also dull much quicker. Typically, they are best reserved for soft, clean, fresh wood.

Round Ground vs. Square Ground

Round ground chains have a rounded profile when you look at the cutting tooth from the side. These are easily the most common on consumer chainsaws because they are so versatile.

Very occasionally, you might see a square ground chain. Like full chisel chains, these also cut more efficiently than round ground chains, but they are harder to sharpen accurately, and they dull faster as well.

Generally, we recommend sticking with your round ground chain unless you have a good reason to change it.

Standard Chains vs. Safety Chains

Safety chains are a new innovation that attempts to reduce kickback. This is achieved by adding another link near the depth gauge. As the chain moves around the tip of the saw, this extra raised link attempts to bounce off obstructions rather than ricocheting like a normal chainsaw chain. The result is to decrease kickback.

Standard, Semi Skip Full Skip

You will occasionally read about full skip chains, semi skip chains and regular chains. Standard chains are the most common, and are what you find on most consumer chainsaws. Semi skip chains differ in that they leave more space between the cutting links, and full skip chains leave even more space.

This design is intended for large powerful chainsaws, to enable more space for wood chips to be ejected from the saw blade. They aren’t that common, and don’t really make sense unless you are using a very large type of chainsaw – like a rancher chainsaw.

Chainsaw Chains Guide Bars (292 items found)

Incredibly useful tools for homeowners, chainsaws can experience dulling or even damage after heavy use. But no matter how well you maintain your chain and guide bar over the course of their lives, replacements inevitably become essential. Rather than buying a new chainsaw, simply replacing the necessary parts will help to improve performance. Find all the chainsaw parts and accessories you might need at Ace Hardware, then browse other necessary outdoor power equipment for your home.

When Should I Replace My Saw Chain?

A saw’s chain life depends on what you use your chainsaw for and how frequently you use it. Determining when you should replace your saw chain can be tricky, but there are a few surefire ways to tell. But if you’re even considering that your chain might need replacing, it’s probably because you’ve noticed it is no longer cutting as well.

And while you decide what’s best for your situation, consider the following questions:

• Is there uneven wear on your chain?
• Has the quality of the cut product deteriorated?
• Does your chainsaw let off smoke when in use?
• Does your chain sag on the guide bar?

Whether you’re having difficulty positioning your chainsaw, are producing crooked cuts or your chain’s teeth are beyond repair, you should consider swapping your chain for a new one to improve performance.

Extra Replacement Chainsaw Chains

Get ahead of any potential issues and stock up on a few extra chains for your chainsaw. Whether you’re a professional or enjoy extensive yard work, the more frequently you use your machine the more replacement chains you should have on hand just in case the situation calls for it.

Shop chains from top brands like Oregon, STIHL, EGO, Craftsman and more to suit your chainsaw, with a variety of drive links and lengths available.

The Importance of the Chainsaw Guide Bar

The chainsaw bar, or guide bar, holds your chain in place and directs how it moves through a cut. There are several types of chainsaw bars available depending on the type and duration of work that needs to be done. For example, laminate guide bars can be lighter and slightly more affordable, making them a good option for non-professionals. Solid guide bars, however, tend to be stronger and more durable, offering more resistance to bending for a great option despite the weight.

Replacing Your Chainsaw Bar

Much like your saw chain, knowing when to replace your chainsaw bar is crucial to continued quality performance. You might need to replace your guide bar if it is bent out of shape, no longer holds your chain properly or if the nose sprocket has been damaged or worn out. Make sure any guide bar you want to use is compatible with your chainsaw and is correctly sized for your chain.

Find Replacement Chainsaw Bars and Chains at Ace Hardware

Routine maintenance will allow you to get as much use out of your chainsaw as possible, but replacement parts become eventually become necessary. Shop for replacement parts at Ace, and if you need any help determining how to replace your chainsaw bar and chain, our friendly staff will be happy to assist you.

Shop now for your replacement chainsaw chains and bars, and enjoy free shipping on qualifying orders. Then, make sure to browse our vast selection of outdoor power equipment to stay prepared for any job.

Chainsaws: Getting to Know Your Chain

Don’t practice safety by accident. Make sure your vehicle has additional lights, strobe lights, beacon, and even reflective tape. Just try to mimic your local county trucks.

Sign up save!

Join our email list today and get 10 off your first order of 150 or more! Stay up-to-date on the hottest deals, the newest sales events, and the latest products.

As a chainsaw owner or operator, it’s important to know your chainsaw’s chain. With terms flying around like pitch, gauge, round-tooth, square-tooth, chisel, full-complement, half-skip, and full-skip it’s easy to become confused. Let’s start with learning the anatomy of saw chain.

Chain Links

Every chain is made of links; your saw’s chain has three types: cutting teeth, drive links, and tie straps. Your chain’s cutting teeth are the “business” end of the chain; these do the cutting or chipping when you cut with your saw. These cutting teeth come in different varieties which are referred to as different cutting tooth profiles. The next type of link found in your chain is the drive link. The drive links travel inside the groove on your chainsaw’s guide bar while the drive sprocket makes contact with the tang of the links. This is what propels your saws chain around your guide bar. It’s important to make sure your chain’s gauge is compatible with your guide bar’s groove width. The tie straps are the links that attach the cutting teeth and the drive links together. They don’t have cutting teeth or the tang of the drive links, these links just hold the chain together. A tie strap with preset rivets is called a preset tie strap, the other half that just has rivet holes is referred to as a tie strap. Depending on your chain’s cutting tooth spacing there may be more or less of these in your chain.

Cutting Tooth Profile

Typically speaking, consumer chainsaws come with round-tooth profile chains. These chains are less prone to kickback and vibration. They can handle a more versatile work load. Kickback is a strong thrust of the saw back towards the sawyer because of improperly using the top corner of the guide bar’s nose. These chains scoop wood out of a cut and are best suited for removing tree limbs, clearing brush, stumping, and cutting through frozen or dirt- and mud-covered wood or hardwoods. These chains require more effort from the engine when making big cuts and are best applied to shorter bars. Most professionals, however, use square-tooth, or chisel profile chains. These chains chip the wood away, severing the wood fiber faster, and are best applied to longer bars (usually 24”). There is no consensus as to which tooth profile is better as they serve different purposes and do different jobs more effectively.

Pitch Gauge

Pitch and gauge are measurements used to describe the size of your chain. Pitch refers to the spacing between the rivets holding the chain links together. This is measured as fractions of an inch (1/4) or in thousandths of an inch (.404) and is calculated by taking the distance between any three consecutive rivets and dividing it by two. The numbers increase as the chains size increases. Gauge refers to the width of the chains drive teeth. This is measured in thousandths of an inch (.063). These measurements are mainly used as a reference to the chain’s compatibility with your saw’s guide bar and drive sprocket. You must match exactly the guide bars groove width and your chains gauge. If these numbers don’t match, the chain won’t have the correct clearance to rotate around your guide bar.

Tips from the mechanics: Always write down and keep these measurements in a place where you can easily access them for reference. When replacing your chain, it’s important to use a chain with measurements compatible with your guide bar and drive sprocket.

Cutting Teeth Spacing

When we’re talking about full-complement, half-skip and full-skip, we’re talking about the spacing between the cutting teeth on the chain. A full-complement chain has the maximum number of teeth possible. These are the chains that are typically used on consumer equipment with a round-toothed profile. The benefits of these chains can also be considered their weaknesses. By having as many cutting teeth as possible these chains make smooth and clean cuts and respond more predictably to user input. These clean smooth cuts are the result of the saw cutting slower, as the close set teeth are pulling more debris out of the cut. But the tradeoff with the slower, smoother cut is increased engine strain.

Half-skip chains add a spacer or non-toothed link between pairs of cutting teeth and full-skip chains add two of these spacers which ends up reducing the number of teeth by approximately 1/3. A half-skip chain installed on a longer bar makes a rougher cut, but it cuts faster and easier through denser wood.

Half-skip chains tend to be a rare choice as replacement chains. Most occasional users tend to replace their full-complement chains with similar or identical full-complement chains, and most professionals prefer full skip chains. This leaves the half-skip replacement chains in the limbo of neither, consumers or professionals, wanting to experiment with this middle ground option.

At the end of the day, it’s important to remember the pitch and gauge of your original chain and to consider what types of cutting you plan on doing with your saw when choosing your replacement chain. You’ll want to keep a record of the pitch and gauge from your saw’s original chain, as you’ll want to find a replacement with the same measurements to fit your saw’s guide bar. Deciding what types of cutting tasks you’ll be performing with your chainsaw will help you decide which saw tooth profile and cutting tooth spacing is best for your saw and its intended work load.

Now that you’re educated and know what you’re looking for, check out our selection of chainsaw chain and guide bars!

As a chainsaw owner or operator, it’s important to know your chainsaw’s chain. With terms flying around like pitch, gauge, round-tooth, square-tooth, chisel, full-complement, half-skip, and full-skip it’s easy to become confused. Let’s start with learning the anatomy of saw chain.

Chain Links

Every chain is made of links; your saw’s chain has three types: cutting teeth, drive links, and tie straps. Your chain’s cutting teeth are the “business” end of the chain; these do the cutting or chipping when you cut with your saw. These cutting teeth come in different varieties which are referred to as different cutting tooth profiles. The next type of link found in your chain is the drive link. The drive links travel inside the groove on your chainsaw’s guide bar while the drive sprocket makes contact with the tang of the links. This is what propels your saws chain around your guide bar. It’s important to make sure your chain’s gauge is compatible with your guide bar’s groove width. The tie straps are the links that attach the cutting teeth and the drive links together. They don’t have cutting teeth or the tang of the drive links, these links just hold the chain together. A tie strap with preset rivets is called a preset tie strap, the other half that just has rivet holes is referred to as a tie strap. Depending on your chain’s cutting tooth spacing there may be more or less of these in your chain.

Cutting Tooth Profile

Typically speaking, consumer chainsaws come with round-tooth profile chains. These chains are less prone to kickback and vibration. They can handle a more versatile work load. Kickback is a strong thrust of the saw back towards the sawyer because of improperly using the top corner of the guide bar’s nose. These chains scoop wood out of a cut and are best suited for removing tree limbs, clearing brush, stumping, and cutting through frozen or dirt- and mud-covered wood or hardwoods. These chains require more effort from the engine when making big cuts and are best applied to shorter bars. Most professionals, however, use square-tooth, or chisel profile chains. These chains chip the wood away, severing the wood fiber faster, and are best applied to longer bars (usually 24”). There is no consensus as to which tooth profile is better as they serve different purposes and do different jobs more effectively.

Pitch Gauge

Pitch and gauge are measurements used to describe the size of your chain. Pitch refers to the spacing between the rivets holding the chain links together. This is measured as fractions of an inch (1/4) or in thousandths of an inch (.404) and is calculated by taking the distance between any three consecutive rivets and dividing it by two. The numbers increase as the chains size increases. Gauge refers to the width of the chains drive teeth. This is measured in thousandths of an inch (.063). These measurements are mainly used as a reference to the chain’s compatibility with your saw’s guide bar and drive sprocket. You must match exactly the guide bars groove width and your chains gauge. If these numbers don’t match, the chain won’t have the correct clearance to rotate around your guide bar.

Tips from the mechanics: Always write down and keep these measurements in a place where you can easily access them for reference. When replacing your chain, it’s important to use a chain with measurements compatible with your guide bar and drive sprocket.

Cutting Teeth Spacing

When we’re talking about full-complement, half-skip and full-skip, we’re talking about the spacing between the cutting teeth on the chain. A full-complement chain has the maximum number of teeth possible. These are the chains that are typically used on consumer equipment with a round-toothed profile. The benefits of these chains can also be considered their weaknesses. By having as many cutting teeth as possible these chains make smooth and clean cuts and respond more predictably to user input. These clean smooth cuts are the result of the saw cutting slower, as the close set teeth are pulling more debris out of the cut. But the tradeoff with the slower, smoother cut is increased engine strain.

Half-skip chains add a spacer or non-toothed link between pairs of cutting teeth and full-skip chains add two of these spacers which ends up reducing the number of teeth by approximately 1/3. A half-skip chain installed on a longer bar makes a rougher cut, but it cuts faster and easier through denser wood.

Chainsaw Chain Types Explained

Half-skip chains tend to be a rare choice as replacement chains. Most occasional users tend to replace their full-complement chains with similar or identical full-complement chains, and most professionals prefer full skip chains. This leaves the half-skip replacement chains in the limbo of neither, consumers or professionals, wanting to experiment with this middle ground option.

At the end of the day, it’s important to remember the pitch and gauge of your original chain and to consider what types of cutting you plan on doing with your saw when choosing your replacement chain. You’ll want to keep a record of the pitch and gauge from your saw’s original chain, as you’ll want to find a replacement with the same measurements to fit your saw’s guide bar. Deciding what types of cutting tasks you’ll be performing with your chainsaw will help you decide which saw tooth profile and cutting tooth spacing is best for your saw and its intended work load.

Now that you’re educated and know what you’re looking for, check out our selection of chainsaw chain and guide bars!

How to Replace a Chainsaw Chain

About: We are the ULTIMATE in supplying you with replacement parts from over 60 name brands, and creating award winning How To Articles and Repair Videos. eReplacementParts.com is #1 when it comes to figuring out e… About toolrepair »

Because it’s a normal part of chainsaw use and ownership, knowing how to correctly replace a chainsaw chain can save tool users time and money.

Even though the steps for a chain replacement are simple and can take less than five minutes, it’s important to point out a few repair details that can make all the difference between a chain that’s installed correctly and an incorrectly installed chain.

Of course, the first step toward a proper chainsaw chain replacement is getting a matching replacement chain for your chainsaw.

To learn how to match chainsaw chains for compatibility, please read our article: Chainsaw Chain Measurements, Sizes, and Types. Continue below for chainsaw chain replacement steps.

Steps to Replace a Chainsaw Chain

Other chainsaw designs may be a little different than that of the chainsaw we use here as an example, but chainsaw designs are similar enough for the steps in this article to help most chainsaw owners regardless of the model they own.

The only tool needed for this repair is the scwrench that most likely came with your chainsaw. Otherwise, a flat head screwdriver and a socket wrench will do just fine.

Step 1: Remove the Old Chainsaw Chain

The side plate on most chainsaws will most likely be held on by two nuts.

Using a scwrench or wrench, unscrew the nuts and remove the plate to access the chain.

A chainsaw’s brake is sometimes attached to the guide bar side plate, like the chainsaw in our example.

If your chainsaw’s brake is attached to its side plate, make sure to unlock the brake before removing sprocket the plate. Removing the side plate with the brake in the locked position can make it difficult or impossible to reinstall.

Step 2: Release the Chain Tension

The old chain is ready to be removed now that the sprocket plate is off of the saw. Pull the nose of the chainsaw‘s bar away from the chainsaw to release it from the tensioner.

Step 3: Remove the Old Chainsaw Chain

Pull the drive links out of the guide bar and slip the other end of the chain around the clutch drum.

Step 4: Loosen the Tensioning Screw

Locate the tensioning screw on the inside side of the guide bar and loosen it a little. This will make installing the new chain easier.

Step 5: Thread the New Chain Onto the Saw

Carefully thread your new or recently sharpened chainsaw chain around the chainsaw’s clutch drum, making sure that the drive links engage in the sprocket.

Thread the rest of the drive links into the guide bar and around its nose.

Step 6: Align the Guide Bar

With the chain properly threaded along the clutch drum and guide bar, put some tension into it by pulling on the nose of the guide bar away from the chainsaw.

While pulling the guide bar, make sure to seat it onto the saw’s adjustment pin.

Step 7: Replace the Side Plate

The side plate is ready to go back on as long as the guide bar is properly positioned beneath.

How To Identify Your Chainsaw Chain

Replace the plate and the nuts that hold it into position, but do not tighten the nuts down all the way yet. The guide bar must be allowed to move a little while the chain is tightened to the correct tension.

Step 8: Tighten the Chain to the Correct Tension

To read about correct chainsaw chain tension, see our article: How to Tighten a Chainsaw Chain.

Step 9: Finish Tightening the Side Plate Nuts

The chainsaw chain replacement is now complete.

Has your chainsaw chain seen its last sharpening? Visit our Chainsaw Chains page to find a matching replacement chain for your saw.

eReplacementParts.com is here to provide the quality tool parts ordering and shipping services that tool owners need, and the information tools to help them get the most out of their powered products.

To get started with another chainsaw repair, visit our Chainsaw Parts page or type your saw’s model number in the search field at the top of the page.

Be the First to Share

Did you make this project? Share it with us!

Project-Based Learning Contest

Make It Bridge

Комментарии и мнения владельцев

I would seriously suggest wearing gloves to do this and not using bare hands!

I would agree with Jeff a sharp chain will be safer. Learning how to sharpen a chain is a very useful skill for any chainsaw owner.

The above is OK, as far as it goes,however, a chainsaw chain only needs to be replaced after it is well and truly worn out. It can be sharpened many times if one knows how.The photograph close-ups suggest to me that the chain shown has a few good logs in it yet. I sharpen my saw after every use (cutting eucalyptus hardwood). It also helps to fully clean the saw of oil and sawdust. A well maintained chain goes a long way towards chainsaw safety.