Craftsman mower battery replacement. 9 Fixes For When Your Lawn Mower Won’t Start

27.07.2023 Morris Ward battery, craftsman, lawn, mower, replacement, your

Lithium Ion (Li-ion) Batteries – FAQs

As battery-powered yard and garden tools become more common, questions always come up about the batteries. So we’ve provided answers to the most frequently asked questions from our readers. Let us know if there’s anything else you’d like us to cover in these FAQs.

Trying to fix a Craftsman mower with electric key start.

If you’re looking for where to buy specific batteries for common outdoor power equipment brands, scroll to the end of this article for details.

What is the difference between Lithium batteries and Lithium Ion batteries?
What does voltage mean (e.g., 40V, 120V)? Are more volts better?
What does Ah mean?
Do Li-ion batteries develop a memory? Do I need to recharge after every use?
Can I use a different brand’s batteries in my XYZ?
What are the advantages of Lithium Ion batteries compared to other rechargeable batteries?
Can I leave Li-Ion batteries on the charger?
How long will it take to charge?
What are the disadvantages of Lithium-Ion batteries compared with other rechargeable batteries?
Are Lithium-Ion batteries available in standard sizes like AA. C or D cell size?
What is the best way to store Lithium Ion batteries?
Do I need to charge it when I buy it?
How should I dispose of Lithium Ion batteries?
Does the battery “die” after a while?
Can I use a higher voltage battery than the one that came with the tool?

What is the difference between Lithium batteries and Lithium Ion batteries?

There are several important differences. The practical difference between Lithium batteries and Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries is that most Lithium batteries are not rechargeable but Li-ion batteries are. From a chemical standpoint, Lithium batteries use lithium in its pure metallic form. Li-ion batteries use lithium compounds which are much more stable than the elemental lithium used in lithium batteries.

A lithium battery should never be recharged, while lithium-ion batteries are designed to be recharged hundreds of times.

What does voltage mean in batteries (e.g., 40V, 120V)? Are more volts better?

Volts are a measure of voltage and refer to the size of the force that sends electrons through the battery’s circuits. It’s sort of like horsepower, except for cordless tools. volts equal more power available for the tool to use.

Cordless tools that use a higher voltage battery will have more power than those with lower voltage batteries. The question to ask yourself is whether or not you need that amount of power for what you’ll be doing with the tool. For example, if you’ll only be using your cordless string trimmer to trim grass around flower beds, you don’t need 120V (you can practically cut down a tree with some of the new 120V trimmers!).

On the other hand, lower voltage batteries are lighter and smaller, as well as cheaper to buy.

Higher voltage batteries are ideal for users who use the tool often, for longer periods of time and under tougher conditions. They’re also often needed in tools that require more torque or power, such as cordless chainsaws and self-propelled lawnmowers.

The cheaper, lower-voltage batteries are a better investment if the battery operated tool is used only seasonally or rarely, is used for light-duty tasks, or if weight is a consideration.

Some batteries, such as the FlexVolt battery from DeWALT, are designed to automatically change voltage to suit the power requirement of the tool.

Li-ion batteries come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, depending on the manufacturer, volts and Ah.

What does Ah mean? How does it affect power and/or run time?

Ah is an abbreviation for ampere-hour, or amp-hour. This is the total amount of charge a battery can deliver in one hour. A power tool that continuously draws 1.0A of current will completely drain a 1.0 Ah battery pack in one hour (under ideal conditions).

This means that a 2.0Ah battery pack can power the same tool longer than a 1.0Ah battery pack can, assuming the current flow remains at 1.0A and there are no other differences. Many people simplify this to say that a “higher Ah means longer run time”, although that’s not the whole story.

So a 4.0Ah battery pack will run your outdoor power equipment twice as long as a 2.0Ah battery pack, right? Sometimes, yes. Other times, no. And sometimes it can deliver more than double the runtime. It depends on how the batteries are designed (e.g., running battery cells in parallel vs in series, built-in safety features, venting), as well as tool design (e.g., a trimmer with high and low settings will draw more or fewer amps depending on which setting is used) and environmental factors (e.g., using the battery in high heat will reduce efficiency and run time).

Without more information about the battery, all you can say for certain is that a battery with a higher Ah rating will produce power for longer than a lower Ah battery of the same voltage when used in the same tool and under the same conditions.

If you’re considering a battery for a tool that requires a lot of power or torque to be effective, then a higher Ah battery would be a plus as you’ll get more run time from the battery. If it’s a light-duty tool, then a lower Ah battery will be just fine as it won’t need to draw as many amps to work well (with the added plus of being considerably less expensive).

Do Li-ion batteries develop a memory? Do I need to recharge after every use?

No. While older styles of battery did develop a “memory”, the current Li-ion batteries do not.

Best practice is to place the battery on the charger after each use. That way, you’ll always have a fully-charged battery to work with. Many manufacturers suggest a less than full charge to prolong the overall life of the battery.

Can I use a different brand’s batteries in my tool?

No. Tool companies like to create addicts. The good news is that it pays to become an addict. Manufacturers inspire brand loyalty by selling tools, both with batteries or without. That way, once you’ve bought your first tool – and its included batteries – you can use them on all the other tools from that manufacturer. But only on tools from that manufacturer.

It’s a good idea, then, to make your buying decision based on everything a company sells, even tools that you might not need yet.

What are the advantages of Lithium Ion batteries compared to other rechargeable batteries?

Lithium-ion batteries have several advantages:

They have a higher energy density than most other types of rechargeable batteries. This means that for their size or weight they can store more energy than other rechargeable batteries.

They also operate at higher voltages than other rechargeable batteries.

Lithium-ion batteries also have a lower self-discharge rate than other types of rechargeable batteries. This means that once they are charged they will retain their charge for a longer time than other types of rechargeable batteries. For example, NiMH and NiCd batteries can lose anywhere from 1-5% of their charge per day (depending on the storage temperature) even if they are not installed in a device. Lithium-ion batteries will retain most of their charge even after months of storage.

Each manufacturer has their own size and shape of charger, and even within the same brand you’ll find different chargers for different batteries (note the two green Greenworks batteries/chargers in the image above).

Can I leave Li-Ion batteries on the charger?

Unless your tool instructions specifically say to store the battery on the charger, be sure to remove it after charging is complete. Overcharging can damage a battery and shorten its life, and not all chargers shut off automatically.

Replacing Your Lawn Tractor’s Battery: Lawnmower Tips by Sears Home Services

How long will it take to charge?

Li-Ion batteries charge quickly, usually 60-120 minutes depending on the voltage. Check the manufacturer’s directions prior to use.

What are the disadvantages of Lithium-Ion batteries compared with other rechargeable batteries?

Lithium-ion batteries are more expensive than similar capacity NiMH or NiCd batteries. This is because they are much more complex to manufacture. Li-ion batteries actually include special circuitry to protect the battery from damage due to overcharging or undercharging. They are also more expensive because they are manufactured in much smaller numbers than NiMH or NiCd batteries. Li-ion batteries are becoming less expensive and over time we should see their price decrease significantly.

Lithium-ion batteries also require sophisticated chargers that can carefully monitor the charging process. And because of their different shapes and sizes, each type of Li-ion battery requires a charger designed to accommodate its particular size and its particular manufacturer. This means lithium ion battery chargers are more expensive and more difficult to find than NiMH and NiCd battery chargers.

Are Lithium-Ion batteries available in standard sizes like AA, C or D cell size?

No, Lithium-ion batteries are not available in standard sizes.

This could be because it would be too easy for users to inadvertently put them in a charger not designed for Lithium-ion batteries, creating a potentially dangerous situation. If an alkaline battery is put into the wrong charger it might leak or even burst, but a lithium-ion battery put into a NiCd or NiMH charger not designed for lithium-ion might ignite.

Also, because Li-ion batteries operate at a much higher voltage (typically 3.7V per cell) than the 1.2 to 1.5V of most cell batteries, designing a 1.5V lithium-ion cell would be expensive.

craftsman, mower, battery, replacement, your, lawn

What is the best way to store Lithium Ion batteries?

Lithium-ion batteries can hold a charge for many months. It is best to store a lithium-ion battery with a partial or full charge.

Occasionally, if a lithium-ion battery with a very low charge is stored for a long period of time (many months) you may find that its voltage slowly drops to below the level at which its built-in safety mechanism allows it to be charged again. In other words, it’s dead.

If the battery is going to be stored for several months it’s a good idea to take it out and recharge it after a few months. Better yet would be to actually use the battery every few months and then leave it partially or fully charged.

Do I need to charge the battery when I buy it?

Most Li-Ion batteries come with a partial charge. Most manufacturers specify in their instructions how long to charge a new battery before using it for the first time. Usually, this means topping off the charge before first use.

How should I dispose of Lithium-Ion batteries?

Li-ion batteries, like all rechargeable batteries, are recyclable and should be recycled rather than thrown in the trash. They should never be incinerated since they might explode. Most places that sell rechargeable batteries will also accept them back for recycling.

Does the battery “die” after a while?

Yes. You can expect a lithium-ion battery to last from two to three years.

A lithium-ion battery’s lifespan is calculated by charging and discharging cycles. The typical lithium-ion battery has a lifetime of up to 2000 charging and discharging cycles.

Check your individual warranty – the battery should last at least that long.

Can I use a higher voltage battery than the one that came with the tool?

Sometimes, although not a much higher voltage (e.g., do not try using a 120V battery in a tool that comes standard with a 20V battery!). As previously stated, batteries are indigenous to their manufacturers and many are now offering interchangeable voltage options. Keep in mind that higher voltage equals heavier weight and greater cost. Check your tool’s manual for specific guidelines.

Li-ion battery sizes differ so even in cases where a battery has the same volts (40V in the image above), if the Ah is different the battery size will likely also be different and so may not fit on the same tool.

Where to Buy Li-Ion Batteries

Below are some of the most common batteries for lawn and garden tools.

There are a number of reasons, mechanical and otherwise, why a mower won’t run. The good news is that fixing most all of the issues is easy enough for a DIYer to handle.

By Tony Carrick and Manasa Reddigari | Updated Aug 8, 2022 4:03 PM

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

Lawn care can be tedious, but once the grass starts growing in the spring, mowing becomes a fact of life in most neighborhoods. When you finally muster the strength to tackle that first cut of the season, there are few sounds as disheartening as that of a lawn mower engine that turns over but doesn’t start.

Before you drag the mower in for repairs or invest in costly replacement parts, first make sure that a clogged air filter, soiled spark plug, damaged safety cable, clogged mowing deck, or contaminated gas isn’t to blame. Work through the following steps, and you may be able to get your puttering grass guzzler up and running again in no time.

A lawn mower repair professional can help. Get free, no-commitment repair estimates from pros near you.

Change the lawn mower carburetor filter.

Your lawn mower’s air filter guards the carburetor and engine from debris like grass clippings and dirt. When the air filter becomes clogged or too dirty, it can prevent the engine from starting. To keep this from happening, replace paper filters—or clean or replace foam filters—after every 25 hours of engine use.

The process for removing the filter depends on whether you are operating a riding or walk-behind lawn mower. For a riding mower, turn off the engine and engage the parking brake; for a walk-behind mower, pull the spark plug wire from the plug. Then, lift the filter from its housing.

The only choice for paper filters is replacement. If you’re cleaning a foam filter, wash it in a solution of hot water and detergent to loosen grime. Allow it to dry completely, and then wipe fresh motor oil over the filter, replace it in its housing, and power up the mower—this time to the pleasant whirring of an engine in tip-top condition.

Check the spark plug.

Is your lawn mower still being stubborn? The culprit may be the spark plug, which is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the fuel in the engine. If it’s loosened, disconnected, or coated in water or carbon residue, the spark plug may be the cause of your machine’s malfunction.

Locate the spark plug, often found on the front of the mower, and disconnect the spark plug wire, revealing the plug beneath. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the spark plug and remove it.

Check the electrode and insulator. If you see buildup, spray brake cleaner onto the plug, and let it soak for several minutes before wiping it with a clean cloth. Reinstall the spark plug, first by hand, and then with a socket wrench for a final tightening. If the problem persists, consider changing the spark plug.

Clear the mower deck of debris.

The mower’s deck prevents grass clippings from showering into the air like confetti, but it also creates a place for them to collect. Grass clippings can clog the mower deck, especially while mowing a wet lawn, preventing the blade from turning.

If the starter rope seems stuck or is difficult to pull, then it’s probably due to a clogged deck. With the mower safely turned off, tip it over onto its side and examine the underbelly. If there are large clumps of cut grass caught between the blade and deck, use a trowel to scrape these clippings free. When the deck is clean again, set the mower back on its feet and start it up.

Clear the vent in the lawn mower fuel cap.

The mower started just fine, you’ve made the first few passes, then all of a sudden the mower quits. You pull the cord a few times, but the engine just sputters and dies. What’s happening? It could have something to do with the fuel cap. Most mowers have a vented fuel cap. This vent is intended to release pressure, allowing fuel to flow from the tank to the carburetor. Without the vent, the gas fumes inside the tank begin to build up, creating a vacuum that eventually becomes so strong that it stops the flow of fuel.

To find out if this is the problem, remove the gas cap to break the vacuum, then reattach it. The mower should start right up. But if the lawn mower won’t stay running and cuts off again after 10 minutes or so, you’ll need to get a new gas cap.

Clean and refill the lawn mower fuel tank.

An obvious—and often overlooked—reason your mower may not be starting is that the tank is empty or contains gas that is either old or contaminated with excess moisture and dirt. If your gas is more than a month old, use an oil siphon pump to drain it from the tank.

(It’s important to be careful as spilled oil can cause smoking, but there are other reasons this might happen. Read more about what to do when your lawn mower is smoking.)

Add fuel stabilizer to the tank.

Fill the tank with fresh fuel and a fuel stabilizer to extend the life of the gas and prevent future buildup. A clogged fuel filter is another possible reason for a lawn mower not to start. When the filter is clogged, the engine can’t access the gas that makes the system go. If your mower has a fuel filter (not all do), check to make sure it’s functioning properly.

First, remove the fuel line at the carburetor. Gas should flow out. If it doesn’t, confirm that the fuel shutoff valve isn’t accidentally closed. Then remove the fuel line that’s ahead of the fuel filter inlet. If gas runs out freely, there’s a problem with the fuel filter. Consult your owner’s manual for instructions on replacing the filter and reassembling the mower.

Inspect the safety release mechanism cable.

Your lawn mower’s reluctance to start may have nothing to do with the engine at all but rather with one of the mower’s safety features: the dead man’s control. This colorfully named safety bar must be held in place by the operator for the engine to start or run. When the bar is released, the engine stops. While this mechanism cuts down on the likelihood of horrific lawn mower accidents, it also can be the reason the mower won’t start.

The safety bar of a dead man’s control is attached to a metal cable that connects to the engine’s ignition coil, which is responsible for sending current to the spark plug. If your lawn mower’s engine won’t start, check to see if that cable is damaged or broken. If it is, you’ll need to replace it before the mower will start.

Fortunately, replacing a broken control cable is an easy job. You may, however, have to wait a few days to get the part. Jot down the serial number of your lawn mower, then head to the manufacturer’s website to order a new cable.

Check to see if the flywheel brake is fully engaged.

The flywheel helps to make the engine work smoothly through inertia. When it isn’t working properly, it will prevent the mower’s engine from working.

If it is fully engaged, it can make a mower’s pull cord hard to pull. Check the brake pad to see if it makes full contact with the flywheel and that there isn’t anything jamming the blade so the control lever can move freely.

If the flywheel brake’s key sheared, the mower may have run over something that got tangled in the blade. It is possible to replace a flywheel key, but it does require taking apart the mower.

Look out for signs that the mower needs professional repairs.

While repairing lawn mowers can be a DIY job, there are times when it can be best to ask a professional to help repair a lawn mower. If you’ve done all of the proper mower maintenance that is recommended by the manufacturer, and gone through all of the possible ways to fix the mower from the steps above, then it may be best to call a pro. Here are a few signs that indicate when a pro’s help is a good idea.

You see black smoke. The engine will benefit from a technician’s evaluation, as it could be cracked or something else might be worn out.
Excessive oil or gas usage. If you’ve changed the spark plugs, and done all of the other maintenance tasks, and the mower is consuming more than its usual amount of oil or gas, consult a professional for an evaluation.
The lawn mower is making a knocking sound. When a lawn mower starts making a knocking sound, something could be bent or out of alignment. It may be tough to figure this out on your own, so a pro could help.
A vibrating or shaking lawn mower can be a sign of a problem beyond a DIY fix. Usually something is loose or not aligning properly.

There are a number of reasons, mechanical and otherwise, why a mower won’t run. The good news is that fixing most all of the issues is easy enough for a DIYer to handle.

By Tony Carrick and Manasa Reddigari | Updated Aug 8, 2022 4:03 PM

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

A lawn mower repair professional can help. Get free, no-commitment repair estimates from pros near you.

Change the lawn mower carburetor filter.

Check the spark plug.

Locate the spark plug, often found on the front of the mower, and disconnect the spark plug wire, revealing the plug beneath. Use a socket wrench to unscrew the spark plug and remove it.

Clear the mower deck of debris.

Clear the vent in the lawn mower fuel cap.

To find out if this is the problem, remove the gas cap to break the vacuum, then reattach it. The mower should start right up. But if the lawn mower won’t stay running and cuts off again after 10 minutes or so, you’ll need to get a new gas cap.

Clean and refill the lawn mower fuel tank.

(It’s important to be careful as spilled oil can cause smoking, but there are other reasons this might happen. Read more about what to do when your lawn mower is smoking.)

Add fuel stabilizer to the tank.

Inspect the safety release mechanism cable.

Your lawn mower’s reluctance to start may have nothing to do with the engine at all but rather with one of the mower’s safety features: the dead man’s control. This colorfully named safety bar must be held in place by the operator for the engine to start or run. When the bar is released, the engine stops. While this mechanism cuts down on the likelihood of horrific lawn mower accidents, it also can be the reason the mower won’t start.

Check to see if the flywheel brake is fully engaged.

The flywheel helps to make the engine work smoothly through inertia. When it isn’t working properly, it will prevent the mower’s engine from working.

If the flywheel brake’s key sheared, the mower may have run over something that got tangled in the blade. It is possible to replace a flywheel key, but it does require taking apart the mower.

Look out for signs that the mower needs professional repairs.

You see black smoke. The engine will benefit from a technician’s evaluation, as it could be cracked or something else might be worn out.
Excessive oil or gas usage. If you’ve changed the spark plugs, and done all of the other maintenance tasks, and the mower is consuming more than its usual amount of oil or gas, consult a professional for an evaluation.
The lawn mower is making a knocking sound. When a lawn mower starts making a knocking sound, something could be bent or out of alignment. It may be tough to figure this out on your own, so a pro could help.
A vibrating or shaking lawn mower can be a sign of a problem beyond a DIY fix. Usually something is loose or not aligning properly.

Charging a battery in a riding lawn mower video

You may need to charge the battery in your riding lawn mower at the start of the mowing season, or if you accidentally drained your battery by leaving the ignition on. Either way, this video shows you how to charge your battery safely using a charger.

For additional repair help, including common symptoms and troubleshooting tips, step-by-step riding lawn mower and tractor repair guides and articles, check out our repair help section. In addition, find the riding mower parts you need to fix your mower.

Supplies you may need

Hi, Wayne here from Sears PartsDirect. Today we’re going to talk about how to charge the battery in a riding mower. You may need to charge the battery before starting your mower for the first time in spring. And you should fully charge your battery before storing your mower for the winter.

Of course, you also need to charge the battery if it’s unexpectedly dead—perhaps because you left the ignition switch on and drained the battery.

Find the correct charger for your battery

Most riding mowers use 12-volt batteries, but some models built before 1980 use a 6-volt battery. Use a charger that matches the voltage for your battery. Also, use a charger with an output of 10 amps or less. Charging a battery with more than 10 amps can damage it. You can charge the battery without removing it from the mower. Wear work gloves and eye protection when charging your battery.

How to connect charger cables to battery

First, unplug the battery charger from the outlet. Lift the seat and connect the red charger cable to the red, positive battery terminal. Connect the black charger cable to the black, negative battery terminal. Set the battery charger to 12 volts and 10 amps or less. Plug in the charger.

The charger should fully charge the battery in one hour at the 10-amp setting. You might have to charge the battery longer if your amp setting is lower. Some chargers shut off automatically when the battery reaches a full charge. Unplug the charger once it indicates the battery is fully charged. Disconnect the charger cables from the battery and lower the seat.

There you have it—a fully charged battery, ready for use or storage. I hope this video helped you out today. Be sure to check out our other videos here on the Sears Parts Direct YouTube channel. Subscribe and we’ll let you know when we post new videos.

User Manual Craftsman CMXGMAM2703840 140cc Push Mower M105

Craftsman CMXGMAM2703840 140cc Push Mower M105. Use Manual. Use Guide PDF. Documents: Go to donwload!

Owner’s manual. (English)

INSTRUCTION MANUAL Push Mower

ASSEMBLY

IMPORTANT: This unit is shipped without gasoline or oil in the engine. Be certain to service engine with gasoline and oil as instructed in the Operation section of the Engine Operator’s Manual before starting or running your machine.

NOTE: Reference to right and left hand side of the lawn mower is observed from the operating position.

1. Cut each corner of the carton vertically from top to bottom.
2. Remove all loose parts.
3. Remove loose packing material.

Removing Unit From Carton

Liftunit from the rear to detach it from underlying carton material and roll unit out of carton.2. Check carton thoroughly for any other loose parts.

Assembly

Remove any packing material which may be between upper and lower handles.

a. Remove wing nuts and carriage bolts handle as shown in Figure 1. Do not loosen or remove adjacent hex head screws.

b. While stabilizing mower so it doesn’t move, pivot upper handle up as shownin Figure 2. Do not crimp cable while lifting the handle up.

Remove T-bolts from the handle brackets as shown in Figure 3.

Follow the steps below to complete handle assembly:

a. Pull upward on the handle until holes in lower handle (shown in Figure 3 deck cutaway) line up with holes in handle bracket. See Figure 4.

NOTE: When pulling upward on handle, make sure to not pull handle all the way out.

b. Insert the T-bolts removed in Step 2 through the handle brackets and lower handle and tighten securely to secure the handle in place. See Figure 4.

c. Reattach wing nuts and carriage bolts removed in Step 1 into lower holes of handle as shown in Figure 5.

The rope guide is attached to the right side of the upper handle. Loosen the wing knob which secures the rope guide. Refer to Figure 6.

a. Hold blade control against upper handle.

b. Slowly pull starter rope handle from engine and slip starter rope into the rope guide. See Figure 6.

c. Tighten rope guide wing knob.

d. Use cable ties to secure blade control cable to lower handle.

Attaching the Grass Catcher

Followsteps below to assemble the grass catcher. Make certain bag is turned right side out before assembling (warning label will be on the outside).

a. Place bag over frame so that its black plastic side is at the bottom. b. Slip plastic channel of grass bag over hooks on the frame. See Figure 7.

Followsteps below to attach grass catcher: a. Liftrear discharge door.

b. Place grass catcher into the slots in the handle brackets as shown in Figure 8. Let go of discharge door so that it rests on the grass catcher.

To remove grass catcher, lift rear discharge door on the mower. Lift grass catcher up and off the slots in the handle brackets. Release rear discharge door to allow it to close rear opening of mower.

Attaching Side Discharge Cover

Your mower is shipped as a mulcher. To convert to side discharge, make sure grass catcher is off of the unit and rear discharge door is closed.

On the side of the mower, lift the mulch cover. See Figure 9.

Slide two hooks of side discharge cover under hinge pin on mulching cover assembly. Lower mulching cover. Do not remove side mulching cover at any time, even when you are not mulching.

Adjustments

Cutting Height

There is a cutting height adjustment lever located above the front and rear right wheel.

Pull the height adjustment lever outward towards wheel (unit will tend to fall when lever is moved outward). See Figure 10.
Move lever to desired position for a change in cutting height. See Figure 10.
Release lever towards deck.

IMPORTANT: All wheels must be placed in the same position. For rough or uneven lawns, move each height adjustment lever to a higher position. This will prevent you from cutting the grass too close to the ground.

Handle Pitch (If Equipped)

For convenience of operation, you may adjust the pitch of the handle as follows:

Remove wing nuts and carriage bolts from handle. See Figure 11.2. Position the handle in one of the three positions that is most comfortable. See Figure 11 inset.3. Secure into position with wing nuts and carriage bolts removed in Step 1.

OPERATION

Blade Control

The blade control is attached to the upper handle of the mower. Depress and squeeze it against the upper handle to operate the unit, Release it to stop engine and blade.

This blade control is a safety device. Never attempt to bypass its operation.

Cutting Height Adjustment Lever

One adjustment leveris located on therrightrear wheel and one is located on the right front wheel. Both levers have to be at the same position to ensure a uniform cut. Toadjust the cutting height, refer to the Assembly Section.

Deck Wash (If Equipped)

Your mower’s deck is equipped with a water port on its surface as part of ts deck wash system, Use the deck wash to rinse grass clippings from the deck’s underside.

Mulch Cover (If Equipped)

The mulch coveris used for mulching purposes. Instead of collecting the grass clippings in a grass catcher orusing the side discharge chute, some mower models have the option of recirculating the clippings backto the lawn. Thisis called mulching.

Side Discharge Cover

Your mower is shipped asa mulcher. To discharge the grass clippings tothe side instead, follow the instructions on page 9 inthe Assembly section to attach the side discharge cover.

Keep hands and feet away from the chute area on cutting deck. Refer to warning label on the unit.

Grass Catcher (If Equipped)

The grass catcher, located atthe rear of the mower, isused to bag the grass clippings for disposal at another site. Once the bag is ful, remove it up through the handles and empty it before any further mowing.

Trail Shield

The tral shield is attached to the rear of the mower and is thereto protect the operator from flying debris. Do not use the mower unless the shield is fully functional and in place.

Recoil Starter

The recoil starter is attached to the right upper handle. Stand behind the unit and pull the recoil starterrope to start the unit.

Meets ANSI Safety Standards

Craftsman Lawn Mowers conform to the safety standard of the American National Standards Institute (ANSI).

GAS AND OIL FILL-UP

IMPORTANT: Referto the separate Engine Operator’s Manual for additional engine information.

This units shipped without gasoline or olin the engine. Be certain to service engine with gasoline and oil as instructed in this section before starting or running your machine.

Add provided oil before starting mower forthe frst time.

Service the engine with gasoline as instructed in the separate Engine Operator’s Manual.

Use extreme care when handling gasoline. Gasoline is extremely flammable and the vapors are explosive. Never fuel the machine indoors or while the engine is hot or running. Extinguish cigarettes, cigars, pipes and other sources of ignition.

To Start Engine

Be sure no one other than the operator is standing near the lawn mower while starting engine or operating mower. Never run engine indoors or in enclosed, poorly ventilated areas. Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide, an odorless and deadly gas. Keep hands, feet, hair and loose clothing away from any moving parts on engine and lawn mower.

Refer to the Engine Operator’s Manual for instructions on starting and stopping the engine.

Keep firm grip on the starter cord handle to prevent Rapid retraction of starter cord (kickback). Rapid retraction can pull hand and arm toward engine faster than you can let go, and result in broken bones, fractures. bruises or sprains.

To Stop Engine

Release blade control to stop the engine and blade.

Wait for the blade to stop completely before performing any work on the mower or to remove the grass catch

Using as Mulcher

For mulching grass, remove the grass catcher or side discharge chute from the mower. When you remove the grass catcher from the mower, the rear discharge door will close. When you remove the side discharge chute, the mulching cover will close. For effective mulching, do not cut wet grass. If the grass has been allowed to grow in excess of four inches, mulching snot recommended. Use the grass catcher to bag clippings instead.

Using Grass Catcher (If Equipped)

You an use the grass catcher to collect clippings while you are operating the mower.

Attach grass catcher following instructions on page 8 inthe Assembly section. Grass clippings will automatically collect in bag as you run mower. Operate mower until grass bag is ful.

Stop engine completely by releasing the blade control. Make sure that the unit has come to a complete stop.

Lift discharge door and pull grass bag up and away from the mowerto remove the bag. Dispose of the grass clippings and reinstall the bag when complete.

If you strike a foreign object, stop the engine. Disconnect the spark plug wire, thoroughly inspect mower for any damage, and repair damage before restarting and operating. Extensive vibration of mower during operation is an indication of damage. The unit should be promptly inspected and repaired.

SERVICE AND MAINTENANCE

Before performing any type of maintenance/service, disengage all controls and stop the engine. Wait until all moving parts have come to a complete stop. Disconnect spark plug wire and ground it against the engine to prevent unintended starting.

Follow the maintenance schedule given below. This chart describes service guidelines only. Use the Service Log column to keep track of completed maintenance tasks. To locate the nearest Service Center orto schedule service, call the following tol free number:1-888-331-4569.

See the Engine Operator’s manual packed with the mower for detailed instructions on how to perform many of the following maintenance items.

Clean more often under dusty conditions or when airborne debris is present. Replace air cleaner if very dirty.

Always stop engine, allow engine to cool, disconnect spark plug wire, and ground against engine before performing any type of maintenance on your machine.

General Recommendations

Always observe safety rules when performing any maintenance.
The warranty on this lawn mower does not cover items that have been subjected to operator abuse or negligence. To receive full value from warranty, operator must maintain the equipment as instructed here.
Changing of engine-governed speed will void engine warranty.
All adjustments should be checked at least once each season.
Periodically check all fasteners and make sure these are tight.

Lubricate pivot points on the blade control at least once a season with light oil. This control must operate freely in both directions. See Figure 13.

Engine Maintenance

Refer to the Engine Operator’s Manual packed with your mower fora detailed description of all engine-related service specifications.

Clean Engine

Daily or before every use, clean grass, chaff or accumulated debris from engine. Keep linkage, spring, and controls clean. Keep area around and behind muffler free of any combustible debris.
Keeping engine clean allows air movement around engine.
Engine parts should be kept clean to reduce the risk of overheating and ignition of accumulated debris.
Do not use water to clean et parts. Water could contaminate fuel system. Use a brush or dry cloth.

Mower Maintenance

Cleaning DeckClean underside of the mower deck once a season to prevent build-up of grass clippings or other debris. Follow steps below for this job.

Allow the engine to run until itis out of fuel. Do not attempt to pour fuel from the engine. Disconnect spark plug wire. Refer to Engine Operator’s Manual.

Tip mower so thatit rests on the housing, keeping the muffler side down. Hold mower firmly.

Never tip the mower more than 90° in any direction and do not leave the mower tipped for any length of time. Oil can drain into the upper part of the engine causing a starting problem.

Scrape and clean the underside of the deck with a suitable tool. Do not spray with water.

IMPORTANT: Do not use a pressure washer or garden hose to clean your unit.These may cause damage to bearings, or the engine. The use of water will result in shortened life and reduce serviceability.

4, Putthe mower back on its wheels on the ground.

Deck Wash (If Equipped)

Your mower’s deck is equipped with a water port on its surface as part of its deck wash system.

Use the deck wash to rinse grass clippings from the deck’s underside and prevent the buildup of corrosive chemicals. Complete the following steps AFTER EACH MOWING:

Push the mower toa level, clear location on your lawn, near enough for your garden hose to reach. Remove the grass bag if attached.

Make certain the mower’s discharge chute is directed AWAY from your house, garage, parked cars, etc.

Remove the fast attach deck wash nozzle from the mower deck and thread it onto the end of your garden hose.

Attach garden hose with the deck wash nozzle to the water port on your deck’s surface. See Figure 14.

Turn the water ON.5. Start the engine as described in the Operation section.

Runthe engine fora minimum of two minutes, allowing the underside of the cutting deck to thoroughly rinse.

Release blade control to stop the engine and blade.

Turn the water OFF and detach the deck wash nozzle from the water port on your deck’s surface.

After cleaning your deck, restart the mower. Keep the engine and blade running fora minimum of two minutes, allowing the underside of the cutting deck to thoroughly dry

When removing the cutting blade for sharpening or replacement, protect your hands with a pair of heavy gloves or use a heavy rag to hold the blade.

Periodically inspect the blade adapter for cracks, especially if you strike a foreign object. Replace when necessary. Follow the steps below for blade service.

Allow the engine to run until itis out of fuel. Do not attempt to pour fuel from the engine. Disconnect spark plug wire. Refer to Engine Operator’s Manual.

Turn mower on its side making sure that the air filter and the carburetor are facing up.

Remove the bolt and the blade bell support which hold the blade and the blade adapter to the engine crankshaft. See Figure 15.

Remove blade and adapter from the crankshaft.

Remove blade from the adapter for testing balance. Balance the blade on a round shaft screwdriver to check. Remove metal from the heavy side until it balances evenly. When sharpening the blade, follow the original angle of grind. Grind each cutting edge equally to keep the blade balanced.

An unbalanced blade will cause excessive vibration when rotating at high speeds. It may cause damage to mower and could break causing personal injury.

Lubricate the engine crankshaft and the inner surface of the blade adapter with light oil. Slide the blade adapter onto the engine crankshaft. Place the blade on the adapter such that the side of the blade marked “Grass Side” (or with part number) faces the ground when the mower is in the operating position. Make sure that the blade is aligned and seated on the blade adapter flanges. See Figure 15 inset.

Place blade bell support on the blade. Align notches on the blade bell support with small holes in blade.8. Replace hex bolt and tighten hex bolt to torque: 450 in-Ib (min.), 600 in-Ib (max.). To ensure safe operation of your mower, periodically check the blade bolt for correct torque.

OFF-SEASON STORAGE

Never store lawn mower with fuelin tank indoors or in poorly ventilated areas where fuel fumes may reach an open flame, spark, o pilot light as on a furnace, water heater, clothes dryer, or gas appliance

Preparing The Engine

For engines stored over 30 days:

To prevent gum from forming in fuel system or on carburetor parts, run engine until it stops from lack of fuel or add a gasoline additive to the gas in the tank. If you use a gas additive, run the engine for several minutes to circulate the additive through the carburetor.
An oil change is not required but if you desire to change the oil then change while the engine is warm.
Clean engine of surface debris.

Preparing The Lawn Mower

Clean and lubricate mower thoroughly as described in the lubrication instructions.
Do not use a pressure washer or garden hose to clean your unit.
Coat mower’s cutting blade with chassis grease to prevent rusting.

Refer to Preparing the Engine for correct engine storage instructions.

Store mower in a dry, clean area. Do not store next to corrosive materials. such as fertilizer.

When storing any type of power equipment in a poorly ventilated or metal storage shed, care should be taken to rust-proof the equipment. Using a light oil or silicone. coat the equipment, especially cables and all moving parts of your lawn mower before storage.

The battery must be stored with a full charge. Extended storage of a discharged battery will reduce life and capacity of the battery. For optimal battery life, charge the battery once per month while in storage.

Remove electric start push key and keep in a safe place out of the reach of children.

TROUBLESHOOTING

WARNING: Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it against the engine to prevent unintended starting. Before performing any type of maintenance/service, disengage all controls and stop the engine. Wait until all moving parts have come to a complete stop. Always wear safety glasses during operation or while performing any adjustments or repairs.

Blade control disengaged.
Spark plug boot disconnected.
Fuel tank empty or stale fuel.
Engine not primed (If equipped with primer).
Faulty spark plug.
Engine flooded.
Blocked fuel line.

Engage blade control.
Connect wire to spark boot.
Fill tank with clean, fresh gasoline.
Prime engine as instructed in the Operation section.
Clean, adjust gap, or replace.
Wait a few minutes to restart.
Contact your Parts Repair Center to have fuel line cleaned.

Electric Starter Push Key not fully inserted.
Battery not charged.
Circuit breaker tripped

Insert key into starter housing until it snaps into place.
Charge battery. Refer to Battery Charger Instructional Manual.
Debris may be blocking blade operation. Stop engine, remove Electric Starter Push Key, and disconnect spark plug boot. Verify grass or other debris is not obstructing the blade. Carefully clean out debris if necessary. Reattach spark plug boot and reinsert Electric Starter Push Key. Wait one minute after tripping for circuit breaker to automatically self-reset then reattempt start.

Spark plug boot loose.
Stale fuel.
Vent in gas cap plugged.
Water or dirt in fuel system.
Dirty air cleaner.
Blocked fuel line.

Connect and tighten spark plug boot.
Fill tank with clean, fresh gasoline.
Clear vent.
Run engine until it stops from lack of fuel. Refill with fresh fuel.
Refer to Air Cleaner Maintenance in the Engine Manual.
Contact your Parts Repair Center to have fuel line cleaned.

Engine oil level low.
Air flow restricted.

Fill crankcase with proper oil.
Clean area around and on top of engine.

Spark plug gap too close.

Adjust gap. Refer to Spark Plug Maintenance in Engine Manual.

Spark plug fouled, faulty, or gap too wide.
Dirty air cleaner.

Reset gap or replace spark plug.
Refer to Air Cleaner Maintenance in the Engine Manual.

Cutting blade loose or unbalanced.
Bent cutting blade.

Tighten blade and adapter. Balance blade.
Replace blade.

Wet grass.
Excessively high grass.
Dull blade.

Do not mow when grass is wet; wait until later to cut.
Mow once at a high cutting height, then mow again at desired height or make a narrower cutting path.
Sharpen or replace blade.

Wheels not positioned correctly.
Dull blade.

Adjust cutting height lever on right front and right rear wheel to same position.
Sharpen or replace blade.

Also, These documents are for others Craftsman models: CMXGMAM1125499, CMXGMAM7815137, CMXGMAM7815145, CMXGMAM1125500

Sources:

https://gardeningproductsreview.com/lithium-ion-batteries-faqs/
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/lawn-mower-wont-start/
https://www.bobvila.com/articles/lawn-mower-wont-start/
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/charging-a-battery-in-a-riding-lawn-mower-video
https://manualsfile.com/product/k2vc71iouck.html