Delta 36-650 Table Saw Review. Old delta table saw
Delta Unisaw Shark Guard
If you’ve got an older table saw without a riving knife, you should upgrade it with a Shark Guard.
A Short Review
I have a Delta 36-L31X left tilt table saw. It’s a wonderful saw with lots of power and a pretty massive table top. It’s flat and the fence stays dead-on true. It has no vibration and pretty good dust collection. However, it’s a used saw and I didn’t get the factory original splitter with it. It seems that most users when this saw was new simply threw them away. I think a splitter is the most important safety feature for a saw. In fact, every saw since 2008 has had to have a riving knife to be UL Listed. I wanted one for this Delta Unisaw.
After a fair bit of searching, I found the Delta ARK riving knife from Shark Guard. This is a great unit, and I recommend it without reservation. If you aren’t familiar with the Shark Guard, they’ve got a great introduction video.
It fits this saw and installation was easy. I think a true riving knife raises and lowers with the blade. This does not. it mounts to the original splitter location and is stationary. However, it has a quick change adjustment that allows you to quickly raise and lower the splitter. You remove the throat plate, turn a small handle to loosen the knife and then raise or lower the knife to match your blade height. It’s best kept close to the blade. It’s a manual operation, but it’s easy enough that I think the small hassle is well worth the added safety. I’ve used it for more than a year now in a variety of projects and it’s a great addition to this saw.
When cutting small parts I really like using a GRR-RIPPER Pushblock. When I do this I have to remove the pawls and the blade guard. The splitter still works great in this configuration.
Installation
The Delta Unisaw has a mount for a fixed splitter. I don’t think there’s one of these old saws left with one of those installed. If you pull the throat plate you’ll see the original splitter mount.
The first step of installation is to remove this mount using a hex key.
In the following photo you can see the Shark Guard mounting block installed. You can see the yellow quick adjustment knob.
Here’s a close up of the splitter installed. You can see how it raises and lowers.
The splitter itself has an additional block that attaches to it. This block carries the anti-kickback pawls and the blade guard.
I’ll admit that I don’t use the blade guard as much as I could. When cutting a lot of boards, it’s great to use with the overhead dust collection port.
Alignment
I started by making a partial cut in a scrap board without the splitter in place. This board will be used to help test the alignment.
I used a straight edge and a square to make sure that the Shark Guard mounting block was square and aligned.
After tweaking the alignment, you can use the board that you previously cut to make sure that the knife is centered behind the blade. You don’t want it to be hanging off to one side where it will actually make it harder to push the board. You want the knife to be squarely in the middle of the kerf.
Close Up Photos
Here’s a couple of bonus close up photos of the safety pawls.
I ordered the additional light kit. It’s handy in my shop. I’ve got new LED lighting now, but it’s still a great addition to help remove any shadows.
As a way to support this blog, I’m going to include an Amazon link here to my favorite rust inhibitor. I’ve been using BOESHIELD T-9 on all of my hand tools, blades, table tops and moving parts for the last few years. It’s not as good as paste wax for a table saw top, but it is great for everything else. When I’ve left this saw unused for a period of time, I do give the table saw top a spray of it and wipe it off later.
Fully Assembled
Here it is fully assembled and ready to use.
If you’ve got questions about any of this, please feel free to send me an email.
Disclosure of Material Connection: Some of the links in the post above are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and purchase the item, I will receive an affiliate commission. Regardless, I only recommend products or services I use personally and believe will add value to my readers. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255 : “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.”
Copyright © Craig Davis 2022 There4.io is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program
Delta 36-650 Table Saw Review
Posted 8 years ago on Friday, February 20th, 2015 by James S.
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Delta Contractor’s Saw Model 36-650
I had picked up a small DeWALT DW745 jobsite saw to split pickets lengthwise for the privacy fence I was building. I eventually started getting into woodworking and realized that the little DeWALT, while a great saw for what it is, wasn’t enough for what I wanted to do. In particular, I really wanted a much larger table and a bigger rip fence.
After some Craigslist hunting, I got a fair deal on a much larger and older Delta Contractor’s saw, model 36-650. This was the right saw for me: we’re not in our last house, but it’s portable enough to move and I have plenty of space in my shop for it. It came from the factory with a cast iron top and a belt-driven 1.5hp Delta motor. I ended up using a Scotchbrite and some oil, and then some Johnson’s paste wax, to clean the very slight amount of surface rust off and protect it against further rust. It is important to use the right wax on a table saw, not because it will hurt the iron, but because it will clog the pores of wood you push across it.
Motor
As stated, the saw comes with a 1.5hp Delta motor that can be converted to 240V if desired. Compared to the large 3-phase cabinet saw motors, the one in this Delta is pretty wimpy. However, with a thin kerf blade, as discussed below, it has had sufficient power to cleanly cut the domestic hardwoods I’ve thrown at it so far, and also do some 1/2″ dados with an 8″ dado stack.
Rip Fence
The saw came with a Delta Unifence rip fence, which is one of the best fences on the market. One great feature about a Unifence is that I can actually slide the it so that the back of the fence is about even with the blade; this makes crosscuts using the fence much safer, since there is no fence past the cut, where the wood could bind. It looks like this is a popular upgrade for these contractor saws, and one that I would strongly recommend after spending some time with it.
Saw Table
The table is large and cast-iron. This gives a nice, large surface to slide wood across, as well as providing enough weight to cut down on vibration and ensure smooth cutting. I believe these saws come stock with a small right-side cast-iron wing. Instead of this, mine has he pictured wood extension wing, which was was put on by the previous owner. He did a nice job, adding it as part of the Unifence upgrade. It appears to simply be baltic birch or similar plywood, and really improves the table. I was also able to turn this portion into a router table very easily.
The cast iron table itself also includes two miter t-slots, which is a pretty nice feature, albeit a common one. The slots themselves can accomodate a typical 3/8″ miter accessory, but they can also handle t-slot accessories. These have slightly wider flanges at the bottom of the bar to prevent the accessory from lifting off the table. It’s not a big deal, but it ensures that you can use any typical accessory.
Dust Collection
Additionally, the previous owner added a dust collection port on the bottom of the saw. By default, it does not come with dust collection. However, Amazon, Woodcraft, and other stores sell dust collection fittings that simply screw onto the bottom of typical contractor saw stands. Sawdust still tends to collect inside the saw, so this setup isn’t exactly ideal, but it still does much better than nothing.
Splitter
One drawback to this saw is that from the factory, it includes no riving knife or blade guard at all. It did apparently support a splitter, although I don’t know if this was included from the factory.
The stock insert does have a slot for a splitter, and there is a bolt hole to mount it under the insert. It appears as though a previous owner must have chucked it, though. Unfortunately, Delta no longer stocks the part. Even if I could buy it, however, it was intended for a standard 1/8″ blade.
My saw came with a nice Freud thin kerf blade. The kerf is the thickness of the cut a blade will make in a piece of wood; regular blades will chew up about 1/8″ of wood when cutting. You need to account for losing wood due to this when you’re planning out your cuts. (Zing!) Thin kerf blades have been developed in recent years as metal alloys have improved; simply put, they are a thinner blade. The advantage is that a lower-powered saw like I have, at least as compared to a 3-5hp cabinet maker’s saw, can power through wood more efficiently. However, this makes the cut too thin to use the standard Delta splitter, as the freshly cut opening in the wood would get stuck.
I wanted to have something to prevent kickback, though, and I saw that the original Delta bolt hole was still in place. Like I said, the original Delta wouldn’t work with this blade, and it was quite expensive as well. I just got a piece of thin, flat zinc-plated bar from Home Depot, and cut it to length with my Dremel cutoff wheel. It was a cheap solution that works great.
Eventually, I plan to make a zero-clearance insert for the saw. At that point, I will probably build a splitter into the insert itself.
Conclusions
So far, I have found the saw to be excellent. This particular model was made years ago, when Delta was still making top-notch stuff. I have been very pleased with the results I’ve gotten from this saw and would recommend it.
That said, it has a few drawbacks from the factory. Most notably, there is no riving knife or blade guard capability, so something shop-built has to be substituted. Additionally, the stock fence is reported to be very average, so the Unifence upgrade is highly recommended. Otherwise, it’s a very capable saw.
Big Saw On a Budget || Delta Contractor Table Saw 36-725T2 || Ridgid R4560 || Tool Review
Delta Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence System Review
Childhood memories can be powerful forces in the choices we make and the hobbies we pick up as adults. Some of my best memories are from the hours spent in dad’s ad hoc workshops growing up. I always had dreams of dad building a great wood shop where the two of us could build furniture and enjoy time together working on endless woodworking projects. The Delta Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence System rakes me right back there.
Dad’s workshop never really turned into much, but we still enjoyed building all kinds of things, including quite a bit of furniture for my dorm rooms in college. At the center of his shop was an old, rusty, dented Delta table saw. That old beast wasn’t much to look at, but it always turned on, and it always worked well. That old, tired piece of machinery was my first taste of Delta, and it taught me how to safely use a table saw. I’m happy to have experienced it.
Fast forward 25 years, and today I’m getting to experience that dream wood shop at my own home. At the center of my new shop sits the heart and soul of the entire space, my Delta Unisaw, Model 36-L352, with a 52” Biesemeyer Fence System. The new Unisaw has earned my utmost respect and adoration while continuing to impress me hour after hour in the shop. It’s great that even though Delta Power Equipment Corporation purchased Delta from Black Decker, the brand is still making a great tool.
Made In America
Last year I had the pleasure of traveling to Anderson, South Carolina to visit the folks at Delta Machinery to see how they make the Unisaw. The Unisaw is over 90% US-made, including motors and cast pieces manufactured in Wisconsin. The frame and final saw assembly is done in South Carolina before they are shipped all over the world.
While I was visiting the plant in South Carolina, I got to follow my actual saw as it was built from scratch. Early in the morning the metal used to build the supporting cabinet was bent and cut from massive sheets of steel. As the pieces moved around the building they were fabricated and finally powder coated before hitting the assembly line.
Watching a first class piece of machinery like the Unisaw being built by Americans for Americans in a factory in South Carolina was a great experience. I hope the folks at Delta can expand the factory to allow them to make more of their products here in the United States. The fact that the Unisaw is built here in the U.S. should be a high selling point for many users.
Accuracy and Power
The top two characteristics that come to my mind when choosing a table saw are accuracy and power. The Unisaw focuses on both of these via three key components, including: American Marathon Motors in 3 HP or 5 HP models, an American-made single-cast trunnion system (which greatly reduces vibrations), and the precision ground cast-iron table top.
Accuracy begins on the assembly line, and that’s where I was very impressed by the attention to detail that was given in calibrating the blade alignment. During final assembly, I watched with amazement as the worker tested and re-tested the orientation of the blade to the saw assembly. The worker was using feeler gauges as small as 0.001 inches.
On the power side of the equation there are two primary options for the Unisaw: the standard 3 HP motor and an optional 5 HP motor. The latter is from Marathon Motors and is built in Wisconsin. If you’re running a strictly commercial operation, you can also order a 5 HP three phase motor from Baldor.
Combined, these three components create a machine that sings when it’s fired up. In fact, the saw is so smooth that it easily passes the “nickel” test. If you place a nickel on edge on the table top it will not fall over once the motor is started or is running. It’s certainly very impressive, especially once you’ve seen it in person and realize how smooth it operates while still delivering substantial power.
Delta Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence Up-front Controls
One of the features that really stands out on the Unisaw is the front-mounted controls. Because of the unique single piece trunnion system, the controls for depth-of-blade and bevel can be located on the front of the saw cabinet. This gives you a much safer (not to mention easier) way of setting up the saw blade.
And when I say “easy”—the cranks both turn so smoothly—you’d think you were working with a very expensive milling machine. Mounted between the two cranks is a very easy to read dial-type gauge for the blade bevel angle. The gauge reads to an accuracy of ¼ degree.
Safety First
The Unisaw features an excellent riving knife and split blade guard. The user can release the riving knife using a small lever mounted just underneath the table top on the front of the cabinet. This simple yet important feature makes it very easy to remove and install both the riving knife and the blade guard. By making it so easy to install, Delta has certainly increased the number of professionals likely to actually use these safety features. The setup is very simple and far less restrictive compared to older guard designs (which, unfortunately, often led pros to cast them aside).
The Unisaw has large On and Off buttons located just below the table top where a user can quickly power the unit up and down with ease. The Off button is large enough that you can kill the power just by pushing your leg up against it, but not so delicate that you’d be likely to do so by accident.
The 52” Biesemeyer Fence System
The 52” Biesemeyer Fence System is also built at the same location in Anderson, SC. This simple yet effective fence system slides across the table smoothly, locks into place with little effort, and allows the user to set the saw to precise measurements through the use of its hairline pointer.
Dust Collection
A bi-level dust extraction system means that the Delta Unisaw has one of the most efficient means of removing dust from the cut zone and the cabinet. A single dust collection hose connects to the back of the cabinet, but uses a diverter to pull air from both the bottom of the cabinet and also from a chute that catches dust just below the saw blade. The bottom of the cabinet is also sloped so that dust can fall down and slide into the dust port.
As I used it, the design really seemed to work well and cleared away over 90% of the dust while also keeping the cabinet fairly clean. The remaining dust tends to fly up from the cutting service and land on the work piece and/or the table top. In the future, I’d like to see some sort of top dust collection integrated with the blade guard.
Storage Drawer
As an option (which I utilized), the side table can be ordered with a built-in storage drawer. The drawer is a great feature because it serves as the perfect place to store extra blades, wrenches, the blade guard, push sticks, and other small accessories.
Delta Unisaw with Biesemeyer Fence Performance
By this point you’ve got to be thinking to yourself, “This all sounds great, but how does the darn thing perform?!” Well, this story actually started a year ago, and over that time it has performed flawlessly. Perhaps, one of my greatest challenges came recently, as I set out to tackle a large cabinet project.
I fabricated a large 10 foot wide by 8 foot tall built-in entertainment cabinet. The project included building cabinet boxes, drawers, doors, shelving and a wood countertop. Obviously, the Unisaw was a major player in the project from ripping materials down to cutting tenons and dados.
The precision of the Unisaw stood out from the onset. While I’ve built projects like this in the past, they always seem to have “little” adjustments here and there due to my precision (or lack thereof). This project turned out absolutely perfect with amazingly tight joinery and beautiful lines. The Unisaw made the difference and proved to me not only its value but its place among the top table saws on the market.
The Legend Lives On
The current Unisaw certainly isn’t your father’s from the past. It’s been almost 75 years since it was first introduced (1938), and it’s actually better than ever. Most impressive, for me, given our current manufacturing climate, is that it’s still built here in the U.S. by proud Americans who care about the history and future of woodworking.
The Unisaw is an excellent table saw made with quality materials and attention to detail. The result is a very powerful, accurate cabinet saw built to last a generation—much like a fine piece of heirloom furniture.
I’m proud to have such a fine piece of machinery at the heart of my shop. If you’re in the market for a quality cabinet saw, be sure the Unisaw is on your short list.
Delta 34-600 Tilting Arbor Saw Makeover
My husband is so good and knows to get me tools for presents. He tried to get me a drill press for my birthday and when that fell through I asked if I could get a table saw instead – I’ve been itching to have one ever since we moved into our house 6 months ago! When I found this little beauty on Craigslist it was love at first sight!
I don’t know much about older tools, about the Delta brand or really what to look for in a table saw. What I was looking for was something well-built, older, on the small-side to fit into my “garage shop” and it needed to feel ‘steady’. I had a Ryobi saw before and it felt really cheap – the table top was aluminum (I think) because it scratched so easy, I could never get the fence to feel like it was 90-degrees to the table or parallel with the blade.
The guy sold it to me for 100 and even delivered it to my door the next day from an hour away for only 20! It was a dream come true! It was slightly smaller than what I imagined and the blade adjustment knobs were really stiff. There was caked on saw dust inside and rusty parts. The plywood caster base wasn’t going to work – really hard to push around and no way to keep it from moving around.
The saw sat in my garage for nearly a month while I waited for temperatures here in North Carolina to cool off and be less humid then I got to work! It too me nearly a week to disassemble, scrubsand all the pieces, wipe clean, prime, paint and reassemble.
and #2 I found a caster base I could make that allows me to drop the casters for moving but then set the machine back on the ground with only my foot (I’ll tell you about it at the end)!
The plastic hood came with my dust collector and I was so glad to see that it fit the hole underneath the saw base… so I drilled holes for the bolts to go through that hold the saw onto the stand. I love when things work out!
The arbor assembly (saw ‘guts’) were really rusty. I wasn’t sure how to keep it from rusting after I cleaned it up so I decided to spray paint the whole thing to protect it (and easier to brush clean in the future with the gloss paint).
A can of paint must have spilled because I found dried paint everywhere, especially between the motor and motor bracket.
I was so nervous I’d get all the pieces mixed up and wouldn’t know how to put them back together so I kept them in bags until I was ready to deal with them. Later I used Evapo-Rust to dump into the bags that had rusty parts then used a wire brush to removed any debris.
I used small wire brushes for every single inch of all the pieces and scrubbed the life out of those poor little things – they were amazing to use on this project! Then I used 220 sandpaper on the stand and saw box pieces.
These are the products I used for the makeover process. Evapo-rust for rusty small parts. Paste wax for waxing the table top and miter at the end and Tri-Flow lubricant for lubricating the bearings, arbor and any other metal-to-metal contact that moved alot.
I used a lot of spray paint for this project. You could probably say I went overboard with how I painted everything (including bolts) but what I really wanted to do was not just make things LOOK nice but protect the metal from rusting again. I like paint with gloss in it for stuff like this because it’s easier to blow off saw-dust and such.
I did 1-2 coats of primer for everything and then 2-3 coats of paint. Everything looked so awesome after and it was REALLY hard for me to wait 48 hours before putting everything back together again.
I used an orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper for the table top – it was so rusty! Then I used 320, 400, 800, 1000 and 1500 by hand going in the direction wood would be traveling over the top. I buffed it with paste wax to protect from rusting and help boards slide easier.
Alrighty, so now she’s back together and running again! I mentioned how I found a caster base I could make. I was searching around online for different solutions/ideas and I came across a YouTube video where a cute little man was showing you around his shop and telling about his caster system he invented.
It was remarkable how easy it was – a simple push of a lever and you’re on wheels and then a push of another lever you’re sitting on the ground steady!
NOTE: I had to modify his entire system to be much smaller for my saw. I also used 3″ casters rather than 4″ so that changed the overall height boards I used. For the levers, brackets and feet pads I used hardwood and then rest pine.
Here’s the casters raised – you can see there’s only a small gap between the floor and the base. If your garage floor is uneven like mine it can rub in some parts so you may want to make your gap bigger if you’re moving yours far distances or over uneven ground.
When you want to raise your machine you push down on this pedal with your foot and that lever locks into place…
When you want to lower your machine for use you push on the lever bracket with your foot to release and the weight of your machine pushes the caster wheels up off the ground.
I fit everything to my table saw, cutting piece by piece to customize. I attached hardware as I went to make sure the design would work. Then I took everything apart, sanded and stained.
Delta 36-650 replacement fence. Sherwood upgrade fence installation
Glue the stretcher pieces together and attach hinges. The screws on the hinges have 2-1/2″ screws – long enough to grab onto the bottom stretcher.
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21 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Reply Deborah Hamilton Your saw looks wonderful! I would like to recommend getting some magnetized bowls from the auto parts store for small metal parts. They are used by mechanics to put lug nuts in while changing tires. I got some from Auto Zone for 5 each but sometimes you can find them cheaper sold in sets. I use them at my sewing machine when I change feet or when I take parts off the machine to clean them. It saves a lot of crawling around on the floor! HA! September 6, 2016 at 3:27 pm
Reply Dani Hi Deborah! I actually bought several of those from harbor freight and use one for my pins (I have A LOT of pins). I didn’t think to use them for this project though. great ideas for next time!! September 6, 2016 at 3:31 pm
Reply Gypsy Quilter Fantastic job. Love the lifting mechanism. Wish I had thought of that before building the dollies for my new sewing room cabinets. My father had a Delta saw which my mother bought for him. He built many custom kitchens, cabinets, shelves, bookcases, and even a play kitchen set for my sister. He used that saw for many, many years. One thing he always taught me was to clean it after using, from the sawdust on top to that around the motor. Best of luck with your newest acquisition. September 7, 2016 at 11:59 am
Reply Dani Do your sewing cabinets move on casters? I wish I had a dedicated sewing room – right now I have everything in the formal dining room – piles of fabric, bins of notions and sewing machines galore! My poor husband… I dream of what I would like to build to store my things in (but have other projects that require my and attention). I hope to use this saw a lot and I’ll use your advice and try to blow the dust away after using it each time! September 7, 2016 at 12:03 pm
Reply moroeder Dani, kudos to you for tackling such a wonderful project! Ten years ago I inherited one of these fantastic machines from my 97 year old neighbor. A brilliant man that purchased the saw just so he could make a Grandfather’s clock from some cherry wood he had collected thirty years earlier after a tornado strike. I now have the most beautiful Grandfather’sclock and will never forget him.The saw has sat in my metalworking shop for ten years and after sitting since 1977 when he finished his clock, my son’s father in-law wants to bring it back to a useful life. Him not being mechanically minded can’t go through the saw and replace all the spindle and motor bearings. So I volunteered to do it for him. I’ve been working at rebuilding and making machinery for almost fifty years and am so happy I offered to rebuild the saw. It is one of those mechanical treasures you don’t find anymore. All iron and steel construction the engineering was spot on of our American industrial might. I almost want to keep the saw but I don’t do wood work and it won’t cut metal I’m happy to pass it on to someone that will put it to use.MoroederP.S., thanks for the attached manual, it will remind me where every piece goes after I receive the replacement parts and start the rebuild. November 24, 2017 at 10:08 am
Reply Dani You are very generous to do the hard work of restoration! I applaud you for that. I love to know the history of the machines I own – and I agree. things were made so well 60 years ago! Nothing these days will last as long and be in as good of shape. Same with sewing machines. Best of luck to you! Thanks for the comment! November 24, 2017 at 10:10 am
Reply Jeanette Wow. Great job. I just uncovered a table saw from deep in a garage and it is in pretty rough shape. You give me hope for it! April 5, 2018 at 8:56 pm
Reply Dani Old tools can get pretty grungy looking after sitting around but they shine right up with some elbow grease! They’re little work horses too! Good luck! April 5, 2018 at 10:12 pm
Reply Ted Mittelstaedt I have one of those table saws. Mine came from the factory with the saw and a joiner attached to a larger base. My father owned it for years and gave it to me. You did a beautiful job with yours. A couple things you should know about this saw. First yes it can cut metal with the correct saw blade. Second, you really really really want to convert the motor to run off 240v if the motor has the wires brought out to do this. The motor will last longer, run way cooler and it won’t bog down and throw the breaker if your ripping a long bit of plywood. Next, Delta made a set of casters that were on a rack that was designed to fit right into the legs of the saw. That’s why they have holes in them. The Delta casters are also retractable. Last you should look carefully at the motor. If it does not have a thermal overload protector then you should buy a motor controller switch with one and use it instead of the little toggle switch. One other thing is the fence. It is easy to get off square and cause the work to jam between the blade and the fence thus causing a kickback. Another thing is unlike most table saws the insert in this saw just lays there and isn’t screwed into the table, so a violent enough kickback can also throw the insert out and the insert can fall into the saw while it’s running or be picked up by the blade and thrown across the shop. It is also a very good idea to replace the switch with one that has a huge giant red STOP button and a tiny green GO button so you can slam the saw off quickly. One trick my dad used to do with the fence is leave the top bolts loose a bit so that if the work starts to catch in the blade it will push the fence over a bit and not jam. Of course that destroys the accuracy of the fence but that’s OK because you should be using the miter slots for accuracy not the fence. I myself don’t use that trick instead I just triple check the fence every time. A trick with these saws is take a piece of cheap MDF and then screw on a hickory piece that fits in the miter slot then you can screw down various throwaway scraps to the MDF to hold work to make custom cuts that are very accurate. One last thing is you can fill the measurement lines and letters in the two fence rails with red dye and that really makes them stand out. Mine was like that from the factory. February 6, 2019 at 12:52 am
Reply Kate Cornford Hi, I have a question for you. I’m curious your opinion on table saws. Are there certain features that are a must have? I want to make sure to get one that is as safe as possible to operate. I feel like safety is pretty important. Thanks in advance for your answer. October 15, 2019 at 2:44 pm
Reply danicarby Hi Kate! The most important safety feature in my opinion is a splitter behind the blade. Not only does it keep your blade from being pinched and throwing the wood back at you but it also keeps your wood against the fence like a featherboard. I have another post on one installed on my big table saw – all you need is a zero clearance insert and the splitters. easy peasy! Here’s the link: https://theprojectlady.com/table-saw-safety-zero-clearance-insert-and-mj-splitter/ Beyond that the most important thing is to use common sense and a push stick for pushing narrow boards through the blade. October 15, 2019 at 3:05 pm
Reply David Bollinger Hi, GREAT job, and I was lucky to find it. I bought my 1957 36-400 for 50. The original motor (Marathon) is at the shop for new bearings and cord. The worst problem for me is taking the stand down to bare metal – was the coating galvanizing? Very hard to remove to get at surface rust. The top and other parts just needed cleaning, except that there was a small sawdust fire inside that blistered a little paint. The arbor bearings were shot and I don’t have an arbor press so its off to a shop. I got the bearings from or1more on Ebay, and information. I like your dust collection system (Powertec Big Gulp?) and will use it. I also plan to build a cover for the large area around the motor/belt that is open. Should improve suction. I wish I could say that I’m a woodworker (friends say I’m crazy) but I did this to learn how the tool works, to save it and to learn how to use it. I’m glad that you didn’t have to take yours apart just to get it to the basement. Thanks again, Dave March 4, 2020 at 5:19 pm
Reply Fred I am interested in the owners manual. The link to a google drive doc is broken or the file was removed. Any chance you still have it? October 4, 2020 at 5:05 pm
Reply Corey Nice job on the rebuild. I’m actually working on my Father’s saw today. I took the motor apart and replaced the two 203-SFF bearings inside of mine. They were squeaking. The Arbor assembly, that holds the blade itself, has a damaged Bearing Enclosure Nut. I found a new one at Tool Parts Direct. I was quite stunned when I found out just how old this saw is. This will undoubtedly outlast the brand new Makita saw I purchased last winter. One last item, the link to the Manual is no longer accessible. Can you provide a new link to it for myself and others? You could also email it directly to me. Thank you very much and enjoy. October 18, 2020 at 5:22 pm
Reply marcio saw looks great i have one i was trying to download the link for manual but it does not work? also i was wondering if you know where i can by the side wings for it since the one i have they are both missing thank you so much MK November 30, 2020 at 4:15 pm
Reply danicarby Here’s the link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VNGmkgvuw5rbaYshHgWPYwvA3eugXX8a/view?usp=sharing I don’t know where you can find the side tables, sorry! I always look on Ebay for used parts. December 1, 2020 at 7:46 am
Reply Andy I have the same table saw. It’s been in our family since new. My uncle worked for Rockwell-Delta in the late 1950’s He gave the saw to his father. It went to my father after my grandfather passed away and now I have it along with the rest of the Rockwell-Delta tools my grandfather used. Thanks for the great article. Andy December 17, 2020 at 1:37 pm
Reply danicarby What a great history your table saw has! That’s very special January 29, 2022 at 2:46 pm
Reply Neil Vercueil Your saw is beautiful – well done and the link to a working manual will be very helpful to me Thanks for sharing September 17, 2021 at 2:51 pm
Dani
Lover of woodworking, tools and old sewing machines. Project girl living in Raleigh, NC.
