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Getting the Best Lawn Mower Cut Quality

Cutting the lawn has more purpose than making tall grass short. It’s about crafting landscapes that bring pride, landscapes that host parties and landscapes that literally work for you. By delivering superior cut quality for your clients, your reputation as a sharp landscaper will help retain current clients and be a selling point for new ones.

Read the following tips to learn how to get the sharpest looking landscapes. On a zero turn lawn mower, there are both adjustments and techniques landscapers can make and perform to ensure a smooth, even and appealing result with each mowing.

Adjust lawn mow​​​er deck pitch

Fine tuning a mower deck enables the aerodynamic design of the cutting chamber to lift grass, cut it evenly and discharge it effectively.

What is mowe​​​r deck pitch?

Lawn mower deck pitch, or sometimes referred to as, “rake,” is the tilt of the mower deck from front to back. Forward deck pitch creates an air seal at the front of the deck when the blades are rotating. This seal limits air entry into the cutting chamber to the rear of the deck, allowing the aerodynamic design of a Gravely lawn mower deck to maximize grass lift and cut evenly. This design results in a superior cut quality and an even discharge that’s less likely to clump.

For most effective results, a lawn mower deck should have a pitch, or height difference of 1/8-inch to 1/2-inch between the front of the deck to the back of the deck. Naturally, this makes the sweet spot about 1/4-inch of pitch, depending on the mower model. In any case, the front of the deck should be pitched lower than the deck rear. Be careful not to pitch too much that you start scalping lawns.

How to adjust l​​awn mower pitch

All Gravely decks are built so their owners can adjust deck pitch quickly and easily. There’s no special tools or mechanical training required to complete this procedure, either. Just a couple wrenches and a few pieces of hardware. Before you begin, park the mower on a flat, level surface, stop the engine, remove the key, check that the tire pressures are equal and grab a tape measure.

Check ​pitch

As directed in the operator’s manual:

• Raise the mower deck to a cutting height of 3.5 inches.
• Manually and carefully turn the blades so they’re positioned front to back. When manually turning blades, always grab the dull edge of the blade.
• Measure:
• The distances between the front tips of the outer blades and the ground.
• ​The distances between the rear tips of the outer blades and the ground.
• If front measurements are lower than the rear measurements by less than 1/8 inch or more than 1/2 inch, adjust pitch.

Adjust pitch

Deck pitch can be adjusted by lowering the front of the deck, raising the rear of the deck or a combination of both. Be sure to make adjustments so that the distances of your final measurements at the front of the deck accurately reflect the cutting height of 3.5 inches that was set earlier.

​​T​​o lower the high side of deck:

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts counterclockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.

To raise the low side of deck:

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts clockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.​

After pitch adjustment is complete, check deck level.​

Leveling yo​​ur mower deck

Level the mower deck to ensure grass cutting height is even across the width of the deck. This will help ensure a smooth and seamless side-by-side blend between each row of freshly cut grass.

What is lawn mower deck leveling?

This is easier to understand than deck pitch. Deck leveling is simply making the cutting height on the left side of the deck even with the cutting height on the right side of the deck. In all cases, decks should be level with as little variance between each side of the cutting deck as possible. No variance between the left and right side of the deck is best.​

How to level the mower deck​

Leveling a Gravely lawn mower deck is done the same way as pitching a Gravely mower deck, except it’s adjusting the deck height from side to side, not back to front. Same components and tools with pitching a mower deck, and as before, start with the unit parked on a flat, level surface, inflate the tires to specification and grab a tape measure.​

Check mower deck level​​

As directed in the operator’s manual:

• Raise the mower deck to a cutting height of 3.5 inches.
• While wearing thick, sturdy gloves, manually and carefully turn the blades so they’re positioned side to side. When manually turning blades, always grab the dull edge of the blade.
• Measure:
• The distance between the left blade’s left cutting edge and the ground.
• The distance between the right blade’s right cutting edge and the ground.
• If the distance between the left blade tip and the ground is 3/16 inches greater than or less than the distance between the right blade tip and the ground, level the deck.

How to level your la​wn mower deck

As directed in the operator’s manual

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts counterclockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.

• Loosen jam nuts against deck lift links.
• Turn adjustment bolts clockwise.
• Retake measurements and continue adjustment, if necessary.
• Tighten jam nuts against deck lift links.

How to sharpen lawn ​mower blades

Same as with dull knives or scissors – they don’t cut efficiently and results in duplicate effort. On a mower, dull blades leave behind stragglers and require the terribly inefficient practice of mowing the same rows twice.

Dull blades may require a total replacement, which isn’t bad since new blades are relatively cheap and easy to replace. However, if the blades aren’t worn too far, they can be sharpened without spending money on new blades. Be aware that blades should not be sharpened if more than a half-inch of the blade material is worn away (by previous sharpening or wear) or if the air lift is eroded. If the air lift is eroded, blades can no longer lift grass effectively and cut evenly. Blades that are bent or broken should be discarded.

• Read the safety instructions and the procedure instructions in the unit’s operator’s manual.
• Remove the mower deck according to the instructions in the operator’s manual.
• Remove the blades according to the instructions in the operator’s manual.
• File or grind an equal amount of blade material from each cutting edge until sharp. Do not change angle of cutting edge or round the corner of the blade.
• Slide the blade onto an unthreaded bolt and hold the bolt horizontally. Position the blade horizontally and check for blade balance. This is critical. If the blade moves, sharpen the heavy end until the blade remains balanced in a horizontal position on the unthreaded bolt.
• When the blade is sharpened and balanced adequately, reinstall it under the mower deck and torque it to the specification listed in the operator’s manual.
• Reinstall the mower deck.

Cleaning your mo​​wer d​​eck

Mower decks packed with grass clippings, dirt and debris can damage your mower, affect cut quality and hurt lawns. Grass, dirt and debris holds moisture that corrodes bare metal on the spindles and mower blades, weakening them. Additionally, grass-packed cutting decks can harbor fungi and bacteria that can spread to other lawns and damage them.

Grass buildup around the discharge area can prevent clippings from discharging evenly and could lead to clumping. Grass buildup under the deck can also affect the aerodynamics of the cutting chamber, disrupt the air lift under the deck (detailed in What is mower deck pitch?) and affect the cut quality.

How to clea​​n a lawn ​​mower deck

Good lawn mo​​​wi​​ng techniques

Sometimes, getting a better cut quality can be achieved by breaking a few bad habits like mowing too fast, mowing in the same pattern and cutting grass too short.

Why you shouldn’t mow t​​oo fast

For busy landscapers, efficiency is important. And while landscapers will find many creative ways to shave time off each job, patience on the jobsite yields better results. Driving faster than the mower blades and deck can process overwhelms the deck and leaves behind stragglers and clumping. Slowing down the drive speed of a mower allows the blades enough time to lift, cut and discharge grass clippings evenly.

Why you should mow ​​in different patterns

After mowing the same properties, landscapers will learn the best way to navigate through their clients’ properties and will sometimes stick to one efficient mowing pattern. However, mowing in the same pattern is bad for lawns.

Grass is like hair. If it’s accustomed to being pushed in the same direction, it learns which way to fall. After mowing in the same paths cut after cut, grass falls to one direction and doesn’t stand straight up, making it more difficult for the mower to lift the grass and cut it evenly.

Additionally, mowing in the same pattern creates ruts. The weight of a mower driving over the same rows with each mowing causes the soil under a mower’s wheels to become compacted. As soil compacts, it restricts water, air and nutrients from reaching grass roots, leading to grass discoloration in those mower tracks.

To avoid these issues, landscapers should mow in a different pattern that crisscrosses the pattern of the previous mowing.

Why you shouldn’t cu​​t grass too short

Grass that’s kept longer grows healthier.

Grass that’s cut too short becomes stressed because it uses its energy re-growing what was just cut instead of growing its root system. Longer grass makes healthier lawns because longer grass has deeper root systems which access moisture and nutrients more effectively. Additionally, longer grass helps prevent the ability for weeds to take hold in the soil and germinate because tall grass blocks sunlight from those weeds.

Landscapers should cut no more than one-third of the length of grass with each mowing.

Best mowers for good cu​​t ​​quality

Performing service and adjustments on any lawn mower makes a big difference in cut quality, but you’ll never get the best cutting quality without having the right equipment. Consumers have numerous choices in a commercial lawn mower, but they’re not built alike.

Gravely commercial lawn mowers are designed for landscapers. Not only is a Gravely durable, reliable and comfortable, but each Gravely is designed to deliver superior cutting results.

Strong de​​ck stability

As opposed to decks that shake excessively when cutting, Gravely decks are sturdy and move with the contours of each landscape, ensuring an even cut.

Cutting deck di​​mensions

The deep depth of a fully fabricated Gravely commercial mower deck processes greater volumes of grass faster with reduced need to compromise speed for quality on the jobsite.

Superior deck aero​​dynamics

Grass is lifted and discharged evenly and effectively, meaning there’s less chance for stragglers and clumping.

Constant belt tension

Gravely’s trademarked constant belt tension, or CBT, applies the same tension to a brand new mower belt than it does to an older, stretched mower belt. This ensures consistent blade tip speed and cutting results throughout the life of the belt, even as it wears.​

Lawn mowe​​​r dealers near me

Ready to learn more about the machines that have been shaping the American landscape for over a century? Stop by your local Gravely dealer to explore Gravely’s full product lineup and to get replacement parts like belts, blades and more. Add a Gravely lawn striper kit this season to enhance each lawn by giving it that professional, finished look.​

What is a mower

A riding mower is a self-propelled vehicle operated by a person in a seated or standing position. It is designed for cutting grassy areas such as residential lawns, golf courses, cemeteries and parks.

Riding mowers are distinct from agricultural and industrial tractors, which “are designed as utility machines for multiple uses with a variety of implements and attachments.” (State of California Department of Industrial Relations). Roll-over protection for agricultural tractors is covered by the OSHA standards in Section 1928 subpart C, Roll-Over Protective Structures.

A sulky is a “[r]emovable trailing seat or stand-on platform with wheels or skids designed to carry an operator while controlling a self-propelled, pedestrian-controlled lawnmower.” (Source: ANSI/OPEI B71.4-2012, page 5). This webpage is not meant to apply to mowers with sulkies attached. Workers and employers should see other guidance, such as ANSI/OPEI B71.4-2012, Sections 10.5 and 20.7.

Incidents

On August 30, 2004, a groundskeeper at a mission in Santa Barbara, California, was mowing near the top edge of a retaining wall when his riding mower hit a rock and went over the ledge. The mower fell three feet and landed on top of the groundskeeper, killing him instantly.

On May 7, 2012, a groundskeeper for the National Park Service (NPS) was mowing alongside the Blue Ridge Parkway at an overlook near Asheville, North Carolina. He was operating a zero-radius-turn riding mower that was equipped with a roll-over protective structure. As he maneuvered his mower behind a trash can in a narrow section of the terrain, his mower went over an embankment and fell at least 100 feet, killing the worker.

Safety Considerations for Using Riding Mowers

Workers operating riding mowers face serious safety issues. Their employers need to make sure that the equipment in use is designed and maintained with safety in mind. The employers must make sure that workers are trained to avoid hazardous surroundings. Finally, the employers must ensure that mowing operations are performed safely.

The guidelines discussed below are based on safety principles issued by the California Department of Industrial Relations, which includes Cal/OSHA; the Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety; and the Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI).

Employers Must Ensure Equipment Safety

Use and maintain all available safety equipment. Pay particular attention to the following points:

• Some riding mowers are designed by their manufacturer to be equipped with a roll-over protective structure (ROPS). The ROPS can either be standard or optional equipment. See the footnotes in the “Applicable Consensus Standards” section of this Hazard Alert for links to consensus standards governing which mowers must be equipped with a ROPS.
• If the mower a worker will be using does not have a ROPS, look for unused bolt holes or brackets near the seat or frame to see if the mower should be equipped with a ROPS. Do not operate any mower that was intended to be equipped with a ROPS without its ROPS in place. In many cases, retrofit kits are available. Contact the manufacturer to see if there is a kit for the mower you will be using.
• Mowers with a ROPS should also be equipped with a seat belt. Provide and use approved seat belt assemblies on all riding lawn mowers on which a ROPS has been installed.
• Where vertical clearance does not allow for a ROPS to be in the raised (active) position, the ROPS may be temporarily placed in the lowered (inactive) position. Also, workers should not wear a seat belt while operating a riding mower with the ROPS in the lowered position. Return the ROPS to the raised position as soon as the riding mower is in an area where the vertical clearance allows its use and reconnect the seat belt.
• Equip riding mowers with an operator presence control system that shuts off the blades when the operator dismounts the machine or rises out of the seat.
• Equip riding mowers with interlocks that ensure that the engine cannot start while the mower is in gear or if the blade is engaged. Inspect mowers to ensure that operator presence systems and all safety features are always in place and operable.
• Keep riding mowers in good working order, and inspect them periodically for an insecurely or incorrectly attached ROPS or seat belt.
• Mower operators should use a standard checklist to do a general inspection of the equipment before use. For example, the checklist should include checking the tire pressure and checking for missing or damaged guards, etc.
• Experienced service personnel should inspect riding mowers for the necessary safety features and overall maintenance at least annually. Only qualified personnel should service and repair riding mowers.

While it is essential to have the proper safety equipment in place on riding mowers, you should think of that step as just the beginning of your safety program.

Determining the Safety of the Surroundings

Employers should be familiar with the conditions of the terrain on which their mowers are being used. They should ensure that their workers take the following precautions:

• Do not operate mowers on slopes that exceed the angle limits specified by the manufacturer. Look for a label on the mower with this information.
• When the manufacturer’s instructions are not available or do not specify the angle limits for operating on sloped surfaces, evaluate the terrain and slope conditions to ensure that the mower is operated in a safe manner. Avoid mowing on slopes with an angle of over 15 degrees if there is no other information available.
• Use a slope indicator, also known as a clinometer or inclinometer, if you need one. Used to determine slope angles, inclinometers are devices that attach to equipment; applications for mobile devices; or printable versions that can be downloaded online. Refer to the “Additional Resources for Employers and Workers” section of this webpage, and Figure 1 (Slope Indicator) below. Clicking on the indicators will open separate printable documents.
• Always remove the key when you are leaving a mower unattended, but never leave mowers unattended on a slope. After turning off a mower, the rider/operator should set the brake, remove the key and wait to make sure that all the moving parts have stopped before leaving. The rider cannot assume that the moving parts will stop.
• Do not operate mowers in areas where the drive wheels are within five feet, as measured from the outside wheel edge, of the unprotected edges of retaining walls, embankments, levees, ditches, culverts, excavations, or similar locations that present an overturn or roll-over hazard. Use a string trimmer or a push mower instead.
• When it is necessary to operate riding mowers near ponds, creeks, reservoirs, canals, sloughs, lakes, golf course water hazards and similar bodies of water, evaluate the terrain and any slope conditions. Establish a safety zone to ensure that the mower is operated at a safe distance from such hazards. Sometimes, a distance of two mower widths is sufficient.

Training for Workers

Employers are responsible for providing workers with training before they can operate any lawn-mowing equipment. Training ensures that each operator is competent to operate a riding mower safely. Training must be provided in a language and vocabulary that workers can understand. Training should cover topics on the safe operation of specific riding mowers and other equipment that workers will use. These topics include:

• A review of all safety devices to ensure that ROPS, guards, seat belts, and shields are securely in place and properly used.
• The importance of surveying the terrain for hazards prior to mowing.
• How to identify obstacles in the mowing path, such as large rocks, man-made hazards such as signs and trash receptacles, tree stumps, soft or wet spots, and the areas where the use of riding mowers is prohibited.
• Reading and understanding the operations, maintenance, limitations and warning sections of the equipment manual.
• Speed control, steering and maneuvering such as:

• Decrease speed when the mower is traveling down slopes or around sharp corners to prevent tipping.
• Be particularly alert when backing up or while operating in low-light conditions.
• Do not mow from side-to-side when operating mowers on unlevel or sloped ground. Always mow slopes in the up-and-down direction.

• Use all required personal protective equipment (PPE) at all times: hearing and head protection, safety glasses, work boots, etc. Avoid wearing jewelry and loose-fitting clothing that can easily become entangled with moving parts.
• Never carry passengers. Riding mowers are one-person machines.
• Always start the mower from the driver’s seat. Never start the machine while standing beside it. Keep both feet on the machine at all times while it is running.
• Never place the mower in motion until a worker is ready. Putting the mower in gear unintentionally could make it jerk forward without warning.
• Never mount or dismount a mower while it is running, as there may be enough space for an operator’s toes to pass under the mower housing and be struck by the blade. Perform proper shutdown procedures before dismounting.
• Never stop or start a riding mower suddenly when it is going uphill or downhill. Avoid all sudden starts, stops, or turns.

In addition, agility and quickness do not ensure invincibility. The mower involved in the North Carolina incident, for example, was a zero-radius-turn mower.

Finally, the safe operation of a riding mower is similar to the safe operation of a motor vehicle. drive defensively and expect the unexpected. Employers should train workers to operate the mower as if there were no roll-over protective structure (ROPS) in place. A protective structure is not unlimited in its ability to protect the operator, as indicated by the incident in North Carolina described above.

Retraining and evaluation are necessary to ensure that workers maintain their competency to operate a riding mower safely. Provide refresher training to workers when:

• An operator has been observed operating a mower in an unsafe manner.
• An operator has suffered an injury or been involved in a near-miss incident.
• An operator receives a new job assignment that includes operating a mower or machinery with which the operator is unfamiliar.
• An operator receives a new job assignment that includes mowing on terrain or surfaces that present hazards unfamiliar to the operator.

How One Employer Responded to an Incident

This webpage began with the descriptions of two incidents, one of which occurred at a National Park Service site in North Carolina. This NPS site covered a landscaped area of 30,000 acres along a 500-mile long parkway. Following the incident, the NPS suspended all its mowing operations and did a site assessment to identify which equipment was appropriate for use in the different types of terrain that workers have to mow. Site assessment is a good practice for employers to follow before buying equipment and starting operations, because there are different types of equipment, with some designed for use only in specific terrain or on certain slopes.

The NPS evaluated the landscaped acreage and broke it down geographically. For every area that required mowing, whether covered by string trimmers, push mowers, tractors with PTO-driven flail mowers, tractors with a side-mounted, hydraulically driven, sickle bar mower attachments or riding mowers, the officials performed a site assessment to see which equipment was appropriate. (There are tractors on which flail mowers are mounted at the end of a hydraulically positioned boom, but this employer had none of those.) String trimmers and push mowers can be used on any terrain. Beyond them, the choice of allowable equipment is based on the slope of the terrain. The slope limits of 15 and 22 degrees are based on instructions provided by manufacturers.

• 0- to 15-degree slope.- riding mowers or tractor mowers are approved for these areas.
• 15- to 22-degree slope.- tractor mowers are approved for these areas.
• 22-degree and up slope.- these areas are mowed with string trimmers, push mowers or specialized equipment. Specialized equipment can be riding mowers intended for use on slopes; i.e., slope mowers. The employer had about a half-dozen to a dozen mowers with such abilities.
• Within 5 feet of a drop-off.- a buffer zone is maintained. Only string trimmers and push mowers can be used inside this zone.

For more information on performing a risk assessment, see Managing risks and risk assessment at work. Accessed December 18, 2020.

Applicable Consensus Standards

Be prepared. Information and templates on setting up an injury and illness prevention plan can be found at this website:

Three consensus standards cover riding mowers:

• ANSI Standard B71.1-2012 contains safety specifications that “are intended to apply to products specifically intended as consumer products for the personal use of a consumer around a house. These specifications are not intended to apply to commercial products customarily used by hired operators or to products designed primarily for agricultural purpose. ” (1)
• ANSI/OPEI Standard B71.4-2012 contains the specifications for “powered (a) pedestrian-controlled machines, (b) ride-on machines and (c) implements for use with pedestrian and ride-on machines intended for marketing as commercial turf care equipment and that are customarily used by hired operators.” (2)
• ISO 21299:2009 “Powered ride-on turf care equipment. Roll-over protective structures (ROPS). Test procedures and acceptance criteria,” sets forth test procedures for roll-over protective structures. (3)

On-Site Safety and Health Consultation Services for Employers

OSHA’s On-site Consultation Program offers free and confidential advice to small and medium-sized businesses in all states across the country, with priority given to high-hazard worksites. On-site consultation services are separate from enforcement and do not result in penalties or citations. Consultants from state agencies or universities work with employers to identify workplace hazards, provide advice on compliance with OSHA standards, and assist in establishing safety and health management programs. To find the On-site Consultation programs nearest you, call 1-800-321-OSHA (6742) or visit OSHA On-Site Consultation.

What Rights Do Workers Have?

Workers have the right to:

• Work in conditions that do not pose a risk of serious harm.
• Receive information and training (in a language and vocabulary they can understand) about workplace hazards, methods to prevent harm and the OSHA standards that apply to their workplace.
• Obtain records of work-related injuries and illnesses.
• Get copies of test results done to find and measure hazards in their workplace.
• File a complaint with OSHA to inspect their workplace if they believe there is a serious hazard or that their employer is not following OSHA standards. When requested, OSHA will keep all identities confidential.
• Use their rights under the law without retaliation or discrimination.

Many states operate their own OSHA-approved safety and health program, with standards that may be different from but are at least as effective as Federal OSHA standards. For further information, please visit OSHA State Plans.

Additional Resources for Employers and Workers

Information on Regional Emphasis Programs (REPs) and Local Emphasis Programs (LEPs) can be found at OSHA’s Local Emphasis Programs website.

There are additional resources available outside of OSHA:

Slope Indicators. Inclinometers. Clinometers

An inclinometer/clinometer (slope indicator) is included with this webpage. It can be printed as separate, machine-readable pages. Printable slope indicators can be found at the websites of some riding mower manufacturers.

Inclinometers are available as applications for mobile devices that run the Apple iOS, Google Android, PalmOS, WebOS and Windows 8 operating systems. Some are free.

Other Online Resources

American Society of Safety Engineers, “Ride-On Lawnmowers. The hazards of overturning.” Accessed December 18, 2020.

ANSI B71.1-2012, “American National Standard for Consumer Turf Care Equipment. Pedestrian-Controlled Mowers and Ride-On Mowers. Safety Specifications.” American National Standards Institute (ANSI), ANSI.org. Accessed March 12, 2013.

ANSI/OPEI B71.4-2012, “American National Standard for Commercial Turf Care Equipment. Safety Specifications.” American National Standards Institute (ANSI), ANSI.org. Accessed March 12, 2013.

California Department of Industrial Relations, Title 8, §3563, Power Lawn Mowers. Subsection (e) discusses a program of training for operators of all powered mowers. Power Lawn Mowers. Accessed March 12, 2013.

Canadian Centre for Occupational Health and Safety, Landscaping. Riding Lawnmowers. Landscaping. Riding Lawnmowers. Accessed March 12, 2013.

Exmark training video, or, in Spanish. Both accessed March 19, 2013.

This is one in a series of informational webpages highlighting OSHA programs, policies or standards. It does not impose any new compliance requirements. For a comprehensive list of compliance requirements of OSHA standards or regulations, refer to Title 29 of the Code of Federal Regulations. This information will be made available to sensory-impaired individuals upon request. The voice phone is (202) 693-1999; teletypewriter (TTY) number: (877) 889-5627.

For more information:

U.S. Department of Laborwww.osha.gov (800) 321-OSHA (6742)

(1) ANSI B71.1-2012, “American National Standard for Consumer Turf Care Equipment. Pedestrian. Controlled Mowers and Ride-On Mowers. Safety Specifications.” Accessed March 12, 2013.

(2) ANSI/OPEI B71.4-2012, “American National Standard for Commercial Turf Care Equipment. Safety Specifications.” Accessed March 12, 2013.

(3) ISO 21299:2009 “Powered ride-on turf care equipment — Roll-over protective structures (ROPS) — Test procedures and acceptance criteria.” Accessed March 12, 2013.

Mulching and Mower Decks

What is mulching? Why should I consider doing it? How will it make my lawn look better? Learn all about mulching now.

A John Deere exclusive. The MulchControl Kit with One-Touch Technology.

Grass mulch can help keep your lawn healthy and looking its best. It’s easy to do with our many lawn mower and mower deck offerings. Check out the tractor mower compatibility.

This is grass mulch.

The easy way to feed your lawn. To make grass mulch, grass is cut into easily absorbed grass clippings to help keep your lawn healthy and lush.

Mulch with the push of a button.

The John Deere MulchControl Kit with One-Touch Technology is the easy way to mulch. With the push of a button you can mulch when you want to.

Mulch mode.

Push the button and mulch. The chute closes and you have a dedicated mulching system. Perfect for regular, weekly, or bi-weekly mowing.

Side-discharge mow or bag mode.

Push the button again, or pull the lever, with your MulchControl System, the chute opens and you can side-discharge mow or bag. The choice is yours.

Eight things you need to know about mulch mowing.

Fertilizing your lawn just got easier. Just let your grass clippings do the job for you. Grass clipping mulch is the natural way to feed your lawn essential nutrients. Here are eight things you need to know:

Mulch mowing allows clippings to be cut finely enough so that they can’t be seen when redistributed into the lawn.

Make sure your blades are sharp. Sharp blades help ensure a precise, quality cut.

Mulching returns nitrogen-rich nutrients to your lawn. This feeds your lawn and can reduce the amount of fertilizer you need.

Follow the “one-third” rule when mulch mowing, taking no more off than the top third of the grass blade. Fast-growing conditions will warrant more frequent mowing.

Mulching works better when the grass is dry.

The MulchControl System from John Deere is the easy way to mulch while you mow.

If tall or wet grass conditions result in unsightly clumps, your MulchControl System should be used in side-discharge mode.

If conditions warrant using your MulchControl System in side-discharge mode, clippings are likely to be visible for a few days as they decay.

This exclusive technology is available with One-Touch Technology on the John Deere X350 Select Series Riding Lawn Tractor with a 42-in or 48-in Accel Deep Mower Deck and other Select Series mowers.

MulchControl Kits, with the pull-of-a-lever technology, are available on S240 Riding Mowers with Accel Deep Mower Decks, Select Series Mowers, Signature Series Mowers, and all Residential ZTrak Mowers.

All MulchControl Kits from John Deere include mulching blades for best grass mulching results.

The science behind mulching.

Who loves lugging a heavy bag of lawn clippings to the compost pile or yard waste bin, or endlessly raking leaves in the fall? Pretty much nobody, that’s who. Fortunately, for the sake of aching backs and nutrient-hungry lawns, it’s best to forgo the bag and opt to mulch lawn clippings and leaves instead.

Each little bit of plant material is full of nutrients, and being organic matter, when left in place, can improve the overall health of the soil which in turn, better supports the turf and potentially decreases inputs.

“In the lawncare industry, we’re realizing that rather than feed the lawn synthetically with fertilizers, we can choose to do it more organically by mulching grass clippings and leaving them on the lawn to sift in,” says Richard Hentschel, University of Illinois horticultural extension educator. “Leaving clippings on the lawn provides the equivalent of 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn. That’s nitrogen you didn’t have to buy and apply.” Removing the clippings means also removing those nutrients from the system.

Besides nutrients, clippings return carbon to the soil, which helps build soil organic matter by feeding the microflora that decomposes that organic matter. Soil organic matter (SOM) is measured as a percentage of organic matter in the soil and is the primary indicator of soil health, and therefore the health of the lawn growing in the soil. The higher the percentage of SOM, the more nutrients and water the soil can retain.

“Every 1 percent of SOM holds 1/3 gallon of water per cubic foot of soil,” Hentschel explains. “So, a soil with a fairly good measurement of 3 percent SOM can hold as much as 1 gallon of water per cubic foot.” The ability to hold more water means more of the water applied to the soil through irrigation or falling on the lawn as rain will stay put and turf will be more resistant to swings in temperature and drought conditions.

“SOM also is Mother Nature’s slow release fertilizer. It’s not just the usual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium either, it’s all 16 of the nutrients essential for plant growth,” Hentschel says. Constantly removing lawn clippings and other organic matter results in decreasing levels of SOM, and lawns will become increasingly dependent on the application of synthetic fertilizers.

While lawns benefit from clippings, they don’t want to be smothered by them. Using best mowing practices can leave grass room to breathe and looking as clean as it would with bagging. The key is to mow with sharp blades and frequently enough that no more than 1/3 of the plant tissue is removed per cutting. This will result in less plant material for the lawn to reincorporate per pass.

“If you mow often with a sharp mower blade, even a conventional mower — as opposed to a mower designed specifically for mulching — will cut the grass up fine enough for it to sift back into the standing grass and break up quickly releasing nutrients to the soil and growing grass as it decomposes,” Hentschel says.

It may be a relatively simple task to stay ahead of grass to get a nice fine mulch that disappears quickly into the lawn, but what about leaves in the fall? Hentschel says to go ahead and mulch them, too. Leaves should be mowed frequently as they fall. To ensure finely parsed leaves that will move into the thatch layer more quickly, it may be necessary to make two or more passes with the lawnmower per mowing. When more leaves fall, simply keep making passes to chop up the material and help speed the composting process.

Hentschel says the leaf residue will work its way into the soil taking valuable nutrients with them and creating a barrier that can help control weeds. With multiple years of mulching leaves, which returns more nutrients to the soil through the extra organic matter, lawns may not need as much fertilizer in the spring. And because the leaf residue covers up bare spots where weeds can gain a foothold, it’s possible over time to see fewer dandelions and crabgrass issues after multiple years of mulching.

No raking, no lugging, less fertilizer, more efficient water use, and fewer weeds—for once, the easy choice is also the best choice. Go ahead and leave the mower bag in the shed if you’re so inclined, and leave the organic matter right where it belongs, on the lawn.

Why A Manual Push Mower Is Good For You And The Environment

There are over 80 million lawns in the United States, most of which get cut on a fairly regular basis. Today most people cut their lawn with an electric or gas powered mower but years ago the only option was a manual push lawn mower or reel mower which was powered by human labor. Interestingly reel mowers are making a comeback. Why? Read on to learn about reel mower pros and cons.

What is a Reel Mower?

A reel mower is the type of lawn mower your grandparents would have used to cut the grass. It is a man (or woman) powered grass cutting machine that consists of multiple blades that cut grass vertically rather than horizontally as modern gas and electric mowers do.

These vertical blades make a scissor-like motion to cut blades of grass as the machine is pushed manually. For those who eschew the labor involved in pushing a reel mower there would seem to be no benefit, but there are other benefits of a reel mower beyond exercise.

Physical Benefits of a Reel Mower

Obviously your physical labor is what is used to propel a reel or push mower. Manually pushing a mower can help you to burn between 400 and 500 calories per hour.

To get the most out of your lawn mowing workout you should use your legs and hips to drive the movement of the machine. Maintain an erect posture as you are mowing with your elbows slightly bent and shoulders relaxed; avoid hunching your back.

Not only will using a reel mower help you maintain your weight but it will add to your cardiovascular exercise for the day and aid in building muscle.

Reel Mower Pros and Cons

We’ve established that using a push mower can be good for your health but what other benefits or detriments does it have? If you are not in good health a push mower isn’t for you. It does require strength and stamina and may not be suitable for people with a number of ailments.

If you have a large area of lawn to cut, a push mower may not be the answer. A reel mower does take more time than a gas or electric or certainly a riding mower. That said, there are now gas powered reel mowers available that can help you mow those larger areas of turf.

Rotary mowers have a single blade that cuts horizontally while reel mowers have two blades that cut vertically giving the turf a cleaner cut.

Reel mowers are also environmentally friendly requiring no electricity, oil, or gas to propel them. Since there is no gas or oil, there is no danger of fuel spills. They also produce no noise pollution with the exception of some grunts from those pushing them.

Push mowers are also safer than their counterparts. Since the operation of the machine is reliant on pushing, there is no practical way for the user to accidentally harm a limb while the machine is in use. The spinning of the blades also does not encourage projectiles such as rocks or debris the way other mowers can. Lastly, the speed of push mower blades is significantly less than gas or electric machines, making injuries related to the machine practically impossible.

Reel Mower Maintenance

A manual push mower is made of steel, other metals, and plastic. It does not have rubber tubing, copper wiring, or other small component parts which means this type of mower is low maintenance.

Reel mowers require an occasional rinse with water, sharpening of the blades, and occasional application of oil to moving parts. The amount of oil used is much less than that needed to maintain a gas powered lawn mower, and even recycled waste vegetable oil can be used.

As far as sharpening the blades, it couldn’t be easier. Apply an abrasive paste found in a reel mower sharpening kit to the blades and push the mower. The blades will sharpen themselves as they spin.

Last Word on Reel Mowers

New gas powered models have four, five, and seven blades. The lower you want to cut the grass the more blades you need. The type of grass you are trying to cut makes a difference too. Heavier, bent grasses such as St. Augustine or Bermuda require a seven blade mower, while fine, thin grasses like Kentucky bluegrass or fescue cut best with a four or five blade. They also come in various widths. The wider the mower, the faster they will cut.

Lastly, while maintenance is a breeze, if you damage the blades on a rotary mower, it can easily be removed and replaced. Not so with a reel mower. Although this is a rarity, it will be harder and more costly to fix.