Festool 495315 MFT/3 Multifunction Table
Redesigned for 2008, the height has been adjusted to make work more comfortable. New V-groove channels make adjustments both faster and easier. Both the fence and the miter gauge have been redesigned for better stability and more accurate results. The MFT/3 has 85% more working area than the older MFT 800, and is 15% lighter than the MFT 1080. Even though the MFT/3 has many improvements, we did not abandon features that you have come to trust and enjoy features like perforated tops, side channels for attaching clamps, and folding legs to allow two working heights, and easy transport.
- Max. working width (with FS Guide Rail): 27-9/16″ (700 mm)
- Max. workpiece thickness (with FS Guide Rail): 3-1/16″ (78 mm)
- Table dimensions: 45 9/16″ x 30 7/16″ (1157 x 773 mm)
- Weight: 62 lbs (28 kg)
- Work space: 43 3/8″ x 28 1/4″ (1102 x 718 mm)
- Working height [folded down]: 35 7/16″ [7 3/32″] (900 mm [180 mm])
The integrated guide rail system allows you to cut with confidence. Adjustable to a maximum cutting depth of three inches, accurately cut materials over 27 inches in width. a feat which is impossible with the largest of miter saws. Combined with Festool track saws, jigsaws and OF Series routers, the guide rail is used to make precise, splinter-free cuts that are safer than with a conventional table or radial arm saw.
The angle unit supplied with the MFT3 Multi-Function Table attaches using the V-Groove side rail enabling easy removal and quick, accurate reattachment. Using the angle unit’s detents, make precise angle cuts at common angles. Changing the cut angle is much easier when compared to a miter saw where the entire saw head must be repositioned. The angle stop allows the guide rail and saw to remain stationary while repositioning the workpiece and fence.
Precise, repeatable angle cuts. The angle stop, which is attached to the Multi-Function Table using the V-Groove side rail, prevents movement of the angle unit by stabilizing the end of the fence. It can be easily removed or repositioned using the locking knob.
Not even the placement of the tensioning knobs for the legs of the MFT escaped consideration in the redesign of the MFT3 Multi-Function Table. The knobs are now placed further from the side of the MFT to provide ample room for rotating the knob without damaging your most valuable tools.- your hands.
Even the most minute of details have not been overlooked in the redesign of the new MFT3 Multi-Function Table. The new rubber foot caps protect the floor which is especially important while working on the job site. The new caps also make the MFT more resistant to lateral movement during use.
Festool‘s system approach to tool design is exemplified in the use of the integrated T-Groove side rail to quickly and easily connect two or more Multi-Function Tables (MFTs) to one another. Simply insert the optional connectors (484 455) into the side rails to bridge the MFTs to one another multiplying your work surface. It’s that simple!
The perforated work surface and integrated side rails of the Multi-Function Table provide a wide variety of clamping configurations. Working with the edge of the workpiece or irregular shapes has never been easier thanks to Festool‘s clamps which are designed to integrate with the MFT. Work with confidence, knowing that your workpiece is well secured.
While the Multi-Function Table (MFT) makes a superb work surface for cutting, sanding and routing, you can also use the MFT for assembly. Built to be sturdy, the MFT can support loads up to 260 lbs. A ergonomically designed work height places your work materials at the perfect height.
A new feature of the totally redesigned MFT3 Multi-Function Table is the use of threaded inserts for attaching the perforated work surface. Previous models of the MFT used a coarse wood screw for attachment. The new threaded inserts not only prevent damage to the MDF top from over torquing but also establish a reference point when attaching the top. Positioning the top is now easier and more accurate than ever.
A new feature of the MFT3 Mutli-Function Table is the ability to adjust the position of the Angle Unit and Fence. This new feature creates an additional three inches usable work surface versus the previous models (MFT 800 and MFT 1080) in spite of its smaller size.
The Multi-Function Table has been recently redesigned to offer a more comfortable work surface height. Folding legs make transporting the MFT to and from job sites easy by providing a light weight, compact profile. For installing flooring and other applications where you spend time kneeling, the MFT can be placed at floor level with the legs collapsed bringing the work surface to you. Now that’s Smart!
Introduction: Homemade 3 in 1 Multipurpose Workbench: Table Saw, Router Table and Inverted Jigsaw (Free Plans)
About: Hi! My name is Marija and this is the Creativity Hero channel! I make a variety of videos like DIY projects, crafts and lifehacks that anyone can complete with just a little time and creativity. My mission… About Creativity Hero »
In this Instructable I’m going to show you how I built my 3 in 1 multipurpose workbench.
I’m going to show you how I turned my router into a router table, my circular saw into a table saw and my jigsaw into an inverted jigsaw. Also, I’m going to show you how I collect the dust from these tools. And at last I’ll show you how I connected and wired everything.
On my website you can find free plans with all the details included.
There you can also find some accessories that I plan to make in some of my next videos like: Table Saw Fence, Crosscut Sled, Miter Gauge, Featherboard and Push Stick. I’ll upload free plans for the accessories when I build them.
I dedicated almost a month in designing and building this multipurpose workbench that will ease my future projects. So, let’s get started!
Here are the materials I used:
- 2 sheets of plywood 122 x 244 cm, 21 mm thick (your local hardware store)
- Full overlay cabinet hinges http://amzn.to/2wWw1lP
- T-nuts http://amzn.to/2fqvbCS
- hole screws http://amzn.to/2wYIfp7
- Caster wheels http://amzn.to/2xLcYdy
- Wood glue http://amzn.to/2fshgMw
- Paint http://amzn.to/2yHdBmh
- Walnut wood stain http://amzn.to/2wXruea
- Jigsaw http://amzn.to/2xH1Lu9
- Circular saw http://amzn.to/2fRs8nD
- Router http://amzn.to/2xAOiCh
- Cordless drill http://amzn.to/2frP8MD
- Random orbit sander http://amzn.to/2fqHQJ3
- hole jig http://amzn.to/2wXsq23
- 90 degree angle clamps http://amzn.to/2sJHkac
- Wire strippers http://amzn.to/2wrmZtb
- Forstner bits http://amzn.to/2wXcg91
- Rasp http://amzn.to/2xH2fQL
Step 1: Measuring and Cutting.
For this project I used 2 sheets of plywood, 122 x 244 cm, 21 mm thick. First I marked all dimensions. I used a wooden strip as a fence and clamped it down. Also, I placed the sheets onto 2 tables to prevent the wood from splintering.
I cut all the pieces that I need for this project: the top, the bottom, the sides, the inner panels, the doors and the frame.
Step 2: Assembling the Workbench.
I’ll start with the bottom, and I’ll attach the sides to it.
To make the sides perpendicular with the bottom I’m using corner clamps. On the bottom of the table I’m marking the points where I’ll drive the screws in, and then I’m drilling some pilot holes in there.
After I made the pilot holes, I decided that it is much better to strengthen the joints with a wood glue, and then to drive the screws in. I’m using 5 cm long screws with 4 mm diameter. I repeated this process with the other two panels which are parallel with the first one.
Now I’ll attach the shelves. To do this, I’ll make holes with a hole jig on each shelf. This is the most appropriate way to give the table a cleaner look.
I spent some time measuring and clamping them down with corner clamps, and then I drove the screws in. For these joints I’m using 4 cm long screws.
I can move on to attaching the other two panels which are perpendicular with the other panels that are already attached to the bottom of the workbench. One more thing I need to do is to attach the last shelf with hole screws as well.
Step 3: Turning the Router Into a Router Table.
The first tool that I’m going to attach is the router. I measured the size of the opening, found its center, and drew a square on the panel that I need to cut with a jigsaw.
Then I drilled out four holes, one in each corner to pass the jigsaw blade through. These holes will be starting points for the jigsaw. While cutting you should try to stay as close to the line as possible.
I’ve cut the opening and used a rasp to remove all the extra wood that I couldn’t cut with the jigsaw.
Next, I need to make a rabbet for the insert that will hold the router from below. I’m drawing the perimeter of the square that I need to cut. To follow the line of the perimeter I clamped down a few pieces of scrap wood.
I’m using a straight 12 mm bit to route this section out, but I set the depth of the cut on 5 mm, so I need to pass twice on the same surface to get the 10 mm depth.
Now I need to make the inserts for the tools. The rabbet that I previously made can fit 10 mm thick insert. The problem is that I don’t have 10 mm thick plywood, so I need to find a way to solve this issue.
The only reasonable solution was to turn the 21 mm plywood board into 10 mm board with a router. So, I did it. I removed 11 mm off of the plywood. Although I was all covered in dust, I finally got 10 mm board which was one of the most important parts of the project.
The easiest way to get 10 mm thick plywood is, of course, to buy it, but I wasn’t able to do that, so this solution wasn’t bad at all.
Before cutting the inserts, I sanded the board down to make it nice and smooth. Then I cut the insert for the router and used a sandpaper to make round edges.
Attaching the Router onto the Insert.
Next, I removed the base of the router and I used it as a template to mark the mounting holes.
Then I drilled the holes out. First I used a countersink bit to drill out the holes just enough to get the screw heads to sink below the surface of the wood. That’s because I need the insert to be flush with the surface of the table. For the router, I made holes with a 4 mm bit, and for the insert I made 6 mm holes. Also, I used a 35 mm Forstner bit to drill out the center so that I can easily move the router bit up and down.
The last 4 holes I drilled with an 8 mm bit into the corners of the rabbet. I installed the T-nuts below the surface, so that I can secure the insert in place. I’m going to use a clamp which will pull the T-nut inside the wood.
And that’s it. I’ll attach the router onto the insert, and then I’ll attach the insert onto the table.
Step 4: Turning the Circular Saw Into a Table Saw.
Now, I can move on to the second tool, and that’s the circular saw. Here, I need to pay much more attention to the squaring. The saw has to be squared up with the front edge of the workbench, so I need to measure twice before cutting.
Then again, I drilled 4 holes for the jigsaw blade to pass through and made an opening as big as the circular saw. The rasp corrected all the imperfections.
Then I made a rabbet with the router, and this time I set the depth of the cut on 10 mm, so that I can remove the extra wood all at once.
Fortunately, now I have 10 mm thick plywood for this insert. So, I cut the insert to size, and rounded the edges with a sandpaper.
Mounting the Circular Saw onto the Insert.
To attach the circular saw to the insert I’m going to utilize the existing holes, two in the front, and two in the back of the saw. You may have to drill new holes in your saw base if you can’t use the existing ones.
I marked the places where I need to drill holes in the insert.
After that, I drilled all the holes I needed. I’m going to use bolts with 4 and 5 mm diameter, two of each, and also I’m going to use 4 bolts with 6 mm diameter to attach the insert to the table.
I installed the T-nuts with an F-clamp, one in each corner of the opening.
Making Cuts on the Insert.
Now, I’ll place the circular saw below the top and at this point I need to make 2 cuts, one at a 90 degree angle, and another at a 45 degree angle. Before making the cut I have the blade guard clamped out of the way so that I can see what I’m doing.
So, I’ve turned the circular saw into a table saw.
Step 5: Turning the Jigsaw Into Inverted Jigsaw.
Next, I can FOCUS on the third tool, and that’s the jigsaw.
The process is pretty much the same here. In each corner I drilled 4 holes and slowly passed the jigsaw through, following the lines. Again, all the imperfections are corrected with the rasp.
Then, I clamped down 4 pieces of scrap wood, and they will act as a guide for the router. I routed the section out with a 12 mm bit.
Attaching the Jigsaw onto the Insert.
After that, I need to attach the jigsaw to the insert. And to do that I need to drill new holes in my saw base. I drilled two holes in the front, and two holes in the back of the jigsaw. To do this I’m using 5 mm metal drill bit.
Now that I have 4 new holes on the jigsaw, I can make the appropriate holes on the insert, and on the opening, and to install the T-nuts. Also, I made a 15 mm hole with a Forstner bit for the jigsaw blade.
I can now attach the jigsaw onto the insert, secure the insert onto the workbench and put the blade in place, to check the squaring. You may have a different jigsaw, so you may need to use a different method to attach it to the workbench.
Step 6: Making Holes for the Caster Wheels.
After I drew some lines, I can mark the points for the screws and drill 4 holes on each corner. I’m using caster wheels with brakes, because this way I can easily move the workbench, and I can secure it in place while I’m working.
Step 7: Attaching the Top to the Table.
To attach the top to the table I’m making holes on each side for which I’m going to use 32 mm screws.
Then I’m applying a decent amount of wood glue and I’m driving hole screws in each hole.
Step 8: Making a Frame Below the Top.
I apply wood glue on the first stripe, clamp it down and drive screws from the inside. For the rest 3 stripes I drive screws from below.
Step 9: Preparing the Doors.
Now it is time to work on the doors. I’m marking the points where I’ll place the hinges, and I’m making holes using 35 mm Forstner bit. I’m marking the points for the screws, and then I drill the holes.
Step 10: Painting the Workbench.
Before painting, I’m sanding the entire workbench, first with 120, and then with 220 grit sandpaper, and wipe the dust off.
I decided to finish it with a combination of stain and paint, so I stained the top, the inserts and the doors with walnut stain, and I painted everything else with white paint. What I most like about the stain is that it emphasizes the edges of the plywood wonderfully.
When it comes to the paint, first I applied one coat of oil-based primer, left it to dry out, and then sanded it with 120 grit sandpaper. After that, I applied one coat of white oil-based paint, and left it to dry for at least 24 hours before doing anything else.
Step 11: Mounting the Caster Wheels.
I mount the caster wheels on the bottom with 8 mm bolts, and secured them well.
You can see that the bottom isn’t painted, instead I applied transparent finish, because it dries so fast, so I didn’t have to wait another 24 hours for more paint to dry out.
Step 12: Electrical Work.
Now, I can move on to the fun part of this project: The electrical work.
So I’ll put 3 switches in front of the workbench which will control the three power outlets for each tool, according to the circuit schematic. I’m using 3 core 1.5mm cable and I start by cutting it to size and stripping off the wires inside.
I connected the hot and the neutral lines, in my case the brown and the blue wires, to the switch in a way that they are connected to each other when the switch is pressed, and disconnected when the switch is not pressed. I attached the switch boxes to the workbench using screws, inserted the other end of the cables through the holes where my junction box will be located and assembled the switches.
On the other side, in the router compartment, I marked the position where the junction box will be placed and attached it to the side panel using two screws.
In similar way, I connected the three power outlets with the cables appropriately, attached them in each compartment and assembled them.
What’s left is to connect the main power to the junction box. I did that by using 3 m long cable on which I attached a power plug and then brought the cable to the junction box. At the end I connected all the wires together in the junction box according to the circuit schematic.
Step 13: Dust Collection.
I’ve previously made squares with holes in the middle that will fit all the hoses needed for this workbench. I screwed one square above and one below the shelf, and this way I’ll connect the hoses from the tools and the hose from the vacuum cleaner.
Step 14: Attaching the Doors.
I’m using full overlay hinges. Also I made door knobs out of plywood which I mounted with screws. I kind of like the exposed look of the screws.
Mounting the doors on the workbench is easy, you just have to follow one simple rule. I like the mechanism of the hinges, they are easy to install and adjustable, which is pretty good for people who are using them for the first time.
Step 15: Putting the Tools in Place and Testing Them.
At the circular saw, instead 4, I put 6 screws to attach the insert to the top. This is because the surface of the insert warped for some reason, which I couldn’t fix, and I thought 2 more screws in the middle will solve this problem. And I was right.
At this point I’m done with my workbench. I’m very satisfied with how it turned out. I really like its appearance and functionality, so I think it was worth every second I’ve spent on its design and building.
If you have any questions, suggestions and ideas leave them in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев section below. Also, if you like this video share it with your friends and subscribe to my YouTube channel.
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Table Saw Guide: How to Use a Table Saw
The heart of most woodworking shops is a table saw. Knowing how to use a table saw lets you do anything from cutting sheet goods down to size to making very small parts for models or crafts. When you have the choice of using a track saw vs table saw, table saws still find a home in most serious woodworking and DIY workshops. Of all the tools, the best portable table saws provide tons of versatility. With the right jigs, you can cut box joints, spline joints, tenons for mortise and tenon joints, and many more. This table saw guide should get you started regardless of your skill level.
Using a homemade crosscut sled for your table saw, you can crosscut boards more accurately than you can with a miter saw. Taper jigs let you make cuts that are difficult to do by any other method. My cabinetmaker teacher who taught me how to use a table saw in college could even make an entire round bowl using nothing but a table saw! Here is a video by Colin Knecht of WoodWorkWeb.com using a similar technique.
Types of Table Saws
Rather than go over the various types of table saws again, we can summarize under the categories of benchtop, jobsite, contractor, and cabinet table saws. We also wrote a helpful article on buying a table saw. There is one saw type worth mentioning again—the sliding table saw. I own a small version of this saw that you see pictured in many of the photos.
Sliding table saws, also known as European table saws are industrial saws. They are huge. Much bigger than cabinet saws. The advantage of them is they can take full sheets of plywood and push them through the blade on a movable table. This makes them the ultimate saw for accuracy and efficiency. If I had the space, this would be my dream saw. They come with a nightmare price tag though. A modest one starts at 5,000 and I have seen them as high as 15,000. Ironically enough, about 25 or 30 years ago, Ryobi made an amazing smaller portable sliding table saw. This is the saw I have been using for the past 25 years.
Safety Rules on How to Use a Table Saw
Let’s get one thing straight. Table saws are one of the most dangerous tools in the shop. According to the National Consumers League, every year 40,000 people go to the Emergency Room because of table saw accidents. Every day 10 amputations occur from a table saw. This table saw guide should help you avoid some of that.
I am not telling you this to scare you off from using one. It is usually not the new users learning how to use a table saw that get hurt. It’s often those who have used them for years. We can get too complacent and forget the safety rules. Always be careful, follow the rules below, and you should be okay.
Rule #1 – Don’t Cut Rough Sawn, Cupped, or Warped Lumber on the Table Saw
Table saws are meant to cut wood that is finished (dressed) on at least one face and one edge. The smooth finished face rides down on the table and the finished edge goes against the fence. Cutting cupped or warped wood on the table saw can pinch the blade and lead to kickback. Kickback is where the blade grabs the wood and hurls it back at you at over 120 MPH (193 KPH)! Kickback is the number one way people get injured on table saws.
Some Quick Math: My table saw uses 10-inch blades and spins at 4,800 RPM. That means the teeth are traveling at approximately 150,816 inches per minute (or 9,048,960 inches per hour). Covert inches into miles and that translates into 142.82 miles per hour! Under load, the blade slows down which is why I estimated 120 MPH earlier.
Rule #2 – Prevent Kickback by Never Using the Miter Gauge and Rip Fence at the Same Time
When you do, the piece that gets cut off can get trapped between the blade and the fence. This can lead to kickback. Instead, move the fence far away from the blade when using the miter gauge. You can still use the fence as a stop, but you need to put a stop block in between the fence and the end of the wood. If this table saw guide teaches you anything—ensure you only use one of these at a time.
Rule #3 – Always Use the Riving Knife and Guard as Much as Possible
Guards keep your fingers/hand out of the saw blade. Riving knives reduce kickbacks. These safety mechanisms work by preventing the wood from pinching the blade. It also does this by keeping the wood from twisting—preventing the teeth on the backside of the saw blade from lifting the piece up and throwing it at your body!
There are a lot of people out there who immediately remove the guards as soon as they get their hands on a table saw. This is a bad idea and is the equivalent of cutting the seatbelts out of your car because in some instances it is not convenient to use.
Newer table saws have guards that are much easier to use than older saws. If you have an older saw like mine that is not as easy to use as a modern saw, at least always use a riving knife. Keep in mind, there are some instances where you have to remove it, such as when you use a dado blade.
Rule #4 – Keep Your Fingers and Hands Away from the Blade
Do I really have to say this? Well, I have watched the dumb things people do on YouTube, so… yes, yes I do. Imagine a laser beam in line with the blade. When you start making your cut, keep both hands out of this line and NEVER put your hands in line with the blade while operating the saw.
When I am making a cut I am focused on the wood where it is contacting the fence. I am also focused on where the wood is contacting the table. It is important to also concentrate on whether the blade is following my line. I don’t have enough brainpower to keep track of where my hands are because my attention is divided too much already. Therefore I have made it a 30-year habit of always making sure my hands are out of the danger zone before starting my cut.
A table saw will cut off your fingers so cleanly and so quickly that you will not even know you have just amputated your fingers. Instead of putting your finger near that spinning blade see rule #5.
Rule #5 – Use Push Sticks When Proximity to the Blade is Unavoidable
If the table saw were an oven, push sticks would be the oven mitts. They keep your fingers attached to your body by giving your something to safely manipulate the wood. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes but this is my favorite set. These work with table saws, router tables, shapers, Band saws, and jointers. You can also make your own. Make sure to keep at least one within reach at all times while guiding or pushing wood through the table saw blade. I keep one of these push sticks in my shop apron at all times.
Rule #6 – Never Use the Rip Fence to Make Cross-Cuts
A table saw’s rip fence is for ripping. The miter gauge is for crosscuts and miters. When you use the wrong tool for the job, you not only get poor results, you increase your chances of kickback. Never guide a piece of wood through the table saw using both the rip fence and miter gauge.
Rule #7 – Always Hold Wood Tight to the Table and Fence at the Same Time
This particular point in our table saw guide both prevents kickback and also gives you the most accurate, straightest cuts. I often imagine my left hand is holding the wood like a pool cue with a couple of fingers wrapped around the left edge and my pointer finger and thumb on top of the board. My right hand feeds the wood forward while my left hand is pushing the wood down and to the right towards the fence in front of the blade.
For larger pieces, use a feather board if needed. Feather boards apply lateral and/or downward pressure against the wood to keep it tight against the fence or against the table. You can make them or buy them. When using feather boards, don’t put them so they apply pressure again the spinning blade or that can result in kickback. These are meant to guide your material through the table saw blade smoothly and precisely.
Rule #8 – NEVER Freehand a Cut on a Table Saw
You never want to freehand a cut on a table saw. That means never making a cut without using either the table saw rip fence, miter gauge, or some other jig to guide or hold the material. Violating this rule is an easy way to lose a few fingers or get a board thrown at your face. Enough said.
Table Saw Safety – Saw Stop
Years ago, Saw Stop came out with the technology to sense when your fingers make contact with the blade and almost instantly stop and lower the blade below the surface of the table. This revolutionary technology has undoubtedly saved many fingers from permanent injury. Today, Saw Stop is a manufacturer of high-end table saws with their own line of saws. You have the Sawstop portable jobsite saw, a contractor saw, and also full-size cabinet saws. Now that Festool acquired Sawstop, we expect to see even more products with this technology. If you are in the market for a new saw, it’s worth at least considering. Expect to pay more for this saw technology, however, if it protects you from a single injury, we consider it well worth the investment.
Using the Various Table Saw Controls
When learning how to use a table saw, you will quickly find that every saw has the same basic controls. They may be in a different location or operate slightly differently, but when you learn to work one table saw, you can use them all. On the front or sometimes the side, you will find handwheels to raise and lower the blade. You will also find a wheel to tilt the blade. On many saws, the handwheel to raise/lower the blade and the tilting wheel are combined into one wheel with a lever to shift its function.
Using a Table Saw for Cutting Wood
When you get ready to make your cuts, check your wood first. Look for rough edges that might catch on the lip of the table saw as you feed it forward. Look for loose wood or splinters that could poke you as you feed the wood forward. As annoying as getting a splinter is, do not be tempted to wear gloves while using a table saw. This is a very dangerous practice. The blade can catch the material of your glove and jerk your entire hand into the blade.
Another thing to watch out for is nails and screws in the wood. Examine each board closely before you make a cut, especially if it is reclaimed wood. Make sure your cut line is free and clear of metal. I recently built a rolling barn door out of old pallets that were full of nails, staples, and screws. A cheap handheld metal detector saved my saw blade as the wood was full of nails or staples that I couldn’t see.
If you do woodworking long enough, you are going to hit a bullet embedded in the wood. Typically a hunter missed their mark, hit the tree, and the tree healed over the bullet. Carbide blades can cut through the occasional nail or screw without much damage, just don’t make it a habit.
How to Make Rip Cuts
This guide keeps talking about how to use a table saw to make rip cuts and crosscuts. Let me define them more thoroughly for those who don’t know the difference. A rip cut is a cut that cuts with the grain of the wood. This is almost always the long dimension of the board as shown below. This is why you probably bought a table saw in the first place. A crosscut is a cut at 90 degrees to the grain of the wood. Miter cuts are any other angle cut to the grain. Most people immediately think of using a miter saw for making crosscuts and miters cuts. The table saw is perfectly capable of making those cuts in all but the longest boards.
With very long boards, it may take two people to feed the work through. The second person should hold the work with palms up like a shelf (see the photo below). THEY SHOULD NOT GRASP OR HELP PULL THE WORK AT ALL! This can cause poor quality cuts as well as lead to kickback since you now have two operators trying to control the board and they may be fighting each other without realizing it.
How to Use a Table Saw to Make Crosscuts
While I usually reach for my miter saw when I need to make crosscuts, if I am cutting small parts or need to be very precise, I use the table saw. A table saw crosscut sled (see photo below) is the most accurate method for cutting crosscuts in all but the longest board as there is always going to be play in miter saws. Crosscut sleds are also the safest method for cutting small pieces that are too small to be safely handled on a miter saw. Some woodworkers keep a pencil by their table saw and will use the eraser end as a hold-down device on a crosscut sled when cutting very tiny pieces.
You can find many plans on the Internet for how to make crosscut sleds. Some involve basic no-frills jigs like the one pictured above and others incorporate stop blocks, measuring gauges, hold-down clamps, and safety guards.
My table saw came with a miter gauge, why do I need a crosscut sled!?
The answer is simple. The miter gauge that came with your saw has side-to-side movement in it so the cut will not be any more accurate than a miter saw. An after-market miter gauge is a different story. Many of them come with ways to take out the play and to make them slide through the miter gauge slot perfectly. If they don’t, or if you only have the original miter gauge, add layers of tape to one side of the bar to make it a precise fit. The downside is you will have to replace it periodically. This still does not solve the safety issue when cutting small pieces, so you still need a crosscutting sled.
How to Use a Miter Saw to Make Miter Cuts
When learning how to use a table saw, a necessary skill is learning how to use the miter gauge. Not just to cut crosscuts but also to cut miters. No table saw guide would be complete without teaching this skill. Many miter gauges have stops or detents at commonly used angles such as 45 and 22.5 degrees. The biggest mistake people make when cutting miters is not holding the wood securely enough against the miter gauge so the wood slips as it is being fed through the blade. If you are lucky this results in a poor quality cut. If you are unlucky, this results in kickback.
Many woodworkers will attach a larger wooden board to their miter gauge. This gives them more surface area to hold the wood against when making cuts. Others will go so far as to use spray adhesive and glue sandpaper to the wooden board on their miter gauge to make it extra grippy.
Pro Tip: After you finish making your miter cut, loosen the miter gauge screw, flip the miter gauge upside down and put it in the miter gauge slot. Now push it against the front edge of your table saw which will be 90 degrees. Tighten the miter gauge screw, pull it out and flip it rightside up. You have just perfectly set your miter gauge to 90 degress without even looking at the scale.
A Guide for Cutting Sheet Goods on a Table Saw
Here I’m going to be controversial but this comes from 30 years of experience. Unless you have a big table saw with a big fence and a big outfeed table, I would not use a table saw to make the initial cuts on full sheets of plywood. Even then, if I needed really accurate cuts, I would not use the table saw. It is too easy to let the sheet drift away from the fence just a little. Full sheets are just too heavy and bulky to keep perfectly against the fence. I am sure some of you can do it. I can’t without a second person to act as a human featherboard, and I work alone most of the time.
In my cabinet-making class, we got a letter grade off for every 1/64-inch off we were on our year-end project. If I want that kind of accuracy on full sheets, I am going to use a track saw. Once I break the sheet down into smaller parts, then I switch from the track saw to a table saw. Track saws are great for large sheet goods, but they cut more slowly overall. Once the sheet gets smaller than 4 feet by 4 feet, I will exclusively use my table saw. Finally, nothing beats a table saw when it comes to repeatable cuts.
How to Use a Table Saw for Dado and Rabbet Joints
You can make a multitude of joints with a table saw. None is more ubiquitous than the dado and the rabbet. While you can make these on the router table, they are far slower and require multiple passes. They also wear out your router bits much faster than a dado blade.
Using dado blades is actually prohibited by EN and IEC standards. That means you cannot use them in the European market. In fact, table saws manufactured there typically use shortened arbors so you can’t make your own stacks or buy them from third-party sellers. If you can’t use a dado stack, a full-size (not thin kerf) flat ground rip blade works but you need to make multiple passes.
You make both dados and rabbets on the table saw using a dado set. A stacked dado set consists of two sawblades on the end with more than one chipping blade sandwiched in the middle. By varying the number of blades along with some brass shims between them, you can achieve various thicknesses. If you use a Sawstop table saw, you need a different brake cartridge when using dado sets. You also cannot use a blade guard or riving knife with a dado set.
Dust Collection While Using a Table Saw
Table saws make a lot of dust. I mean they make a LOT of dust. They also throw that dust everywhere, including in your face. For this reason alone you should always wear eye protection. The blade guard on most saws will help keep the dust from flying up at you. Most table saws also come equipped with dust ports for either a shop vac or a dust collector. I always use them. Jobsite and contractor saws are open on the bottom allowing the dust to fall through and collect on the ground under the saws.
I always keep a large plastic bin under them to collect the dust, but it also gives me a place to toss my cut-off scraps. Cabinet-style table saws are fully enclosed on the bottom and therefore their dust collection works much better. That is one of the things you get for that higher price tag.
How to Use an Outfeed Table with Your Table Saw
If you have the room, and you can locate your table saw in a permanent location, build yourself an outfeed table. This table sits on the back of your saw and extends the size (depth) of your table saw. It lets you more easily and safely push large boards and sheets of plywood through the saw. There are many plans on the Internet for how to build them. They range from simple tables to full cabinets with drawers and additional storage space under the table.
Make sure your outfeed table matches the height of your table saw. It should also not interfere with your fence. We also like when they allow the miter gauge slots to continue for a few extra feet.
Wrapping It Up
We hope this guide on how to use a table saw proves helpful. Nothing beats experience. The table saw is such an amazing and versatile tool that entire books have been written on them. In fact, books have been written just on jigs you can make for the table saw.
Use this guide as a starting point and refer back to it as needed—especially the safety rules. Leave a comment below if you have questions.
Find the perfect table saw for your projects, skill level, and budget with our Smart shopping guide.
By Glenda Taylor and Bob Beacham and Mark Clement | Updated Apr 11, 2023 11:06 AM
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Table saws top the wish lists of both DIYers and seasoned woodworkers. These powerful saws cut with more accuracy than circular saws, and they can cut larger pieces of material, including wood, plastic, and aluminum sheeting, better than miter saws. Some cut certain types of material better than others, so we put some of the best table saws through side-by-side, hands-on testing.
Essentially, a table saw’s main function is to perform rips, or cuts along the length of a board. While users can make rip cuts (lengthwise cuts), crosscuts, and angled cuts, and can even create a bevel cut along with dadoes, ripping remains this power tool’s primary purpose.
Whether it’s building bookcases, framing a garage, or even making the trim for a feature wall, having a table saw in the workshop can speed the project along. In this guide, we list some of the best table saws on the market based on our hands-on tests and explain what makes this type of saw useful in any workshop.
- BEST OVERALL:Skil 15 Amp 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw
- BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK:Ryobi 18-Volt One HP Brushless 8.25-Inch Table Saw
- UPGRADE PICK:Bosch 10-Inch Worksite Table Saw
- BEST WOODWORKING:Sawstop JSS Pro Jobsite Table Saw
- BEST JOBSITE:DeWALT DWE7491RS 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw
- BEST HOME WORKSHOP:Ridgid Pro 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw With Stand
- BEST COMPACT:Skil 8.25-inch Portable Worm Drive Table Saw
How We Tested the Best Table Saws
The writing team that prepared this guide includes a former woodshop owner and a general contractor—both of us have extensive experience using table saws of different sizes. We understand what users are looking for and how various models meet their needs.
Aside from tapping into our professional experience, we also researched the saws on the market and were aware of the latest developments ahead of testing. We took into consideration everything from safety to production to mobility (around the shop or jobsite or in and out of the truck). Among our chief considerations:
- Capacities. While depth of cut is important, most table saws are 10-inch models and specifications are very similar. While their primary function in home workshops and on jobsites is ripping dimensional lumber—which doesn’t require a huge rip capacity—ripping capacity varies tremendously and is a key feature for those who cut large sheet material. We were careful to source solutions for all types of users.
- Size and portability. For many users, a compact, portable table saw is the ideal solution. For others, physical size is less important than capacity and stability. Our comprehensive selection includes saws that are great for those who work with these tools on-site or in small spaces at home as well as those who have a large workshop available.
- Brand and value. We avoid cheap table saws, which are often poor in terms of durability and reliability. While buying from the leading table saw brands can mean you pay a little more, this almost always results in better long-term value.
Regarding testing, we evaluated each saw on our list for power and vibration and even the included blades, plowing through pressure-treated southern yellow pine that had been left to dry out and harden for a month. We ran 1×8 material and looked for both smoothness and dust management (without a dust collection system) using cellular PVC deck boards. We also evaluated the included stands, switches, and adjustments and considered the overall feel using the tool for everything from weekend work around the house to building a deck or shed to a months-long setup for remodeling a house.
We followed up with updates to our initial tests, running 2-by pressure-treated lumber, 1×8 finger-jointed primed pine, plywood, and composite decking through each saw looking for everything from power and vibration to dust ejection and vibration. We evaluated adjustments, switches, and fence smoothness along the rails. We also considered mobility and storage.
Our Top Picks
There is an enormous breadth of table-saw users, needs, and requirements. Taking as much into account across this spectrum was not easy while evaluating the field of table saws during our hands-on testing. However, we have to land somewhere. It should be noted up front that each tool in this review delivered on its design promise.
Skil 15 Amp 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw
The built-in foldout legs of the stand are light, stable, and easy to deploy. The saw is light yet powerful enough to blow through framing lumber like a boss. Its included blade leaves a lot to be desired, but that’s an easy swap. The fence was parallel to the blade out of the box, and carrying it to jobsites or moving it around the shop is a cinch. We loved that it stores in a cube when not in use.
The push-button switch takes some getting used to, and we wish the throat plate was steel, not plastic, but for making a few rips at home to plowing through treated lumber building a deck, the saw is on point with everything from power to mobility to accuracy.
This model’s dust port elbow should be on every table saw: With a 22.5-degree bend, it enables the user to chute dust into a box or bucket. It’s a simple, Smart, and an eminently useful feature.
- Table saw folds into a compact cube and is very easy to transport
- Still powerful for what looks like a small and light unit
- Easily handles the vast majority of professional and DIY projects
- Plastic throat plate is less durable than it could be if it were metal
- Included blade is rough, although this is easy to replace (but is an added cost)
Get the Skil table saw at Lowe’s, Acme Tools, or Grainger.
Ryobi 18-Volt One HP Brushless 8.25-Inch Table Saw
The battery on this affordable table saw is fine for light work. The fence was square and parallel out of the box. It’s hardly plush, but it works. The saw is light and portable and has a decent amount of power. It’s not a beast, and that’s an attribute.
Some pros might even find its bare-bones setup and low cost just what they need. It handled 1x8s and composite decking just fine in terms of power. But it did have trouble ejecting the shavings. Having a blower on hand would be an added help. There’s no huge stand, but it does need to be set up at table height for best and safest use.
- Cordless unit; doesn’t need to be near a power socket
- Light and small; great for beginners and for occasional use
- This table saw is powerful enough to handle most DIY projects
- Light-duty saw, primarily DIY; not intended for heavy-duty professional use
- Stand not included; users will need to set this up at table height somewhere
Get the Ryobi table saw at The Home Depot.
Bosch 10-Inch Worksite Table Saw
A little-known fact is that the Bosch 10-inch worksite table saw is a pioneering table saw. Bosch has been making a version of this saw with very few visible changes (it’s that good) for 20 years. It was this saw that took table saws from being small, mainly featureless tools to being a solid, stable, on-site tool with wheels.
The fence is outstanding with the smoothest glide along the rails, which we found to be a real pleasure to use. The paddle switch is excellent and the included blade is nice. It has a soft—but not too soft—start that makes the saw comfortable for close-quarters use in a garage or jobsite shop where a million cuts per day need to be made.
The stand is solid, and the crank cadence to lower and raise the blade is nice. It rampages through 2-by treated lumber with a dust ejection that’s awesome. It has the best miter gauge in the bunch, the best push-stick storage ever, and an excellent thin stock auxiliary fence.
Like all of the tools in the category, this saw is heavy. Yes, it has a wheel kit, but it’s a two-person job to lift it into a truck.
- This table saw has high-quality construction; manufacturer is a reputable brand
- Best-in-class stand; sturdy and highly portable with large and durable wheels
- Competitive capacities; easily handles treated lumber with impressive dust ejection
- Additional features bring this particular model up to a more premium price
- While this table saw includes a stand, the stand itself requires initial assembly
Sawstop JSS Pro Jobsite Table Saw
Designed by woodworkers and based on the cabinet saw that brought flesh-sensing technology to the market, the Sawstop JSS Pro jobsite table saw is for dedicated users who want premium finishes and work primarily with dry lumber. The fence is best in class. Its deployable “thin material” fence is a genius feature that serious woodworkers will love.
Its folding cart works nicely, and the in-table storage is terrific. The blade depth adjustment moves the blade from zero to full height in one turn, which is another best-in-class feature. And the flesh-sensing tech is both comforting and causes one to be rife with anxiety; it picks up on electrical impulses and will save your finger if it’s ever near enough to the blade to be cut.
While there is a bypass mode to check if the sensors will react to wet lumber, it’s tricky to press the right series of buttons. Still, it’s a great saw to have on a trim site or for garage woodworking projects. It does what stationary table saws do, but it is mobile-ish and safe.
- The Sawstop JSS Pro has high-quality construction and delivers astounding quality
- Flesh-sensing technology helps add peace of mind and prevents accidents
- This table saw’s blade-depth adjustment features a smooth and impressive operation
- Premium price; this is likely more suited to those who will use it frequently
- Heavy, despite being on wheels, so lifting on and off trucks is more difficult
DeWALT DWE7491RS 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw
With front legs splayed when open toward the front of the saw, the DeWALT DWE7491RS is ideal for making long rips in heavy material. It is by far the most stable tool in the bunch.
The legs lock and unlock smoothly, though they are not identical to each other, which takes some getting used to. The table was flat out of the box and the blade was parallel to the fence from the start. The DeWALT-pioneered rack-and-pinion fence works really well.
It has an excellent included “rough carpentry” 24-tooth saw blade. The unit has a nice switch and a little bit of a slower blade height crank than other tools, and it was tight to the bevel release. Overall, it’s a high-quality saw at a very good price.
- Sturdy, angled legs help keep this table saw super stable
- The blade that comes included with this table is great quality
- All in, this table saw is an excellent value compared to similar options
Ridgid Pro 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw With Stand
This table saw from Ridgid does all the basics well. It’s got a large cut capacity, collapsible wheel kit, and good power and dust ejection. A 3.5-inch cut capacity means 4x4s can be cut in half. It’s a lot of saw for a great price.
However, the fit and finish were not top of the class. The fence is gummy and the table needed to be adjusted out of the box (it was easy to adjust and worked fine). It didn’t glide smoothly along the rails, and a fence that’s hard to move or needs adjustment is difficult for professional users.
It also has a soft start, which new table saw users may appreciate. The problem for us was—and this may well be subjective—it was too soft. It felt like we had to wait a couple of seconds for the blade to come up to speed. It’s certainly comfortable, but for experienced users putting a lot of lumber through a table saw, those extra seconds add up fast.
For weekend work and projects, this is plenty of saw.
- A capable saw for very little investment; ideal for home DIY projects
- Detachable stand included offers added versatility depending on home setups
- This table saw’s soft start can be a welcome feature for beginners
Get the Ridgid table saw at The Home Depot or DK Hardware.
Skil 8.25-Inch Portable Worm Drive Table Saw
This table saw from Skil, scaled down from its 10-inch cousin, is a pleasure to use. The 8.25-inch platform cuts the vast majority of things table saws cut. The worm drive motor, which is plush to be sure but also a bit heavy, isn’t bad in this smaller platform tool. The saw is compact, easy to move, and is so pleasantly quiet at start-up that it’s a joy to use.
Combined with an outstanding fence and fantastic up-front locking mechanism, this saw can move from site to site, around the garage, or to a stationary place for long projects and deliver dependable performance.
While the saw did not ship with a stand, the roll cage is bored for a stand (which will make it heavier) and is available. The compact design is also great for storing the saw on a work truck.
- Smooth power makes this table saw a true pleasure to use
- Portable, compact, and easy to move; stores well on a work truck
- Has a fantastic cord and fence, with excellent up-front locking mechanism
What to Consider When Choosing a Table Saw
Table saws run the gamut in quality and price, so consider the guidance below when shopping for the best table saws.
Types of Table Saws
While all table saws function in a similar manner—a flat tabletop surface supports the material being cut as you manually feed it into the saw blade—they differ in design, power, best use, mobility, and storage.
Designed to be bolted to a workbench or attached to a stand, a benchtop table saw is compact and relatively lightweight, averaging 45 to 60 pounds (not including some stands). While some benchtop table saws have the cut capacity for cutting sheet goods, they are not really designed for this without modifications like infeed/outfeed support tables, usually shop built.
It’s possible to cut sheet material from time to time alone (better if there is a helper), but these saws are generally considered too compact and not quite stable enough for ripping something like ¾-inch medium-density fiberboard (MDF); sheet materials, such as plywood and oriented strand board (OSB); or plastic and aluminum paneling. For planks, deck boards, 2-by material, and the like, these tools are often indispensable.
Benchtop saws, which can cost 600 or more, are more affordable than larger contractor or cabinet table saws. But since they’re the smallest type of table saw, these tools are limited by the width of the material they can cut—usually about 18 to 20 inches (see “Rip Capacity” below).
A contractor table saw is designed to be somewhat mobile in a shop setting by utilizing a wheel kit. While some contractors use these types of saws on jobsites, the tools are often set up in a workshop for months on end. These jobsite table saws are also good for serious DIYers who have a semipermanent place for them and are doing a variety of tasks that require cast-iron stability and more horsepower than a benchtop saw.
They’re heavier than bench saws (90 to 150 pounds) and are generally capable of cutting sheet material up to 24 inches wide or wider. These tools can run as much as 1,500 or more, depending on quality and power.
Packing more power than other table saws and sometimes requiring a 220-volt (V) circuit, cabinet saws are large stationary table saws. These are the priciest option, ranging from 1,200 to 5,000 or more, depending on power and quality. The motor is fully enclosed in a cabinet below the table.
Cabinet saw users also often build support tables for these tools—called infeed and outfeed support—to make it easier to manage sheet goods like MDF, plywood, and heavier material. Often found in professional or industrial workshops and in trade schools, these heavy saws can weigh more than 600 pounds.
The hybrid table saw is a combination of the cabinet and contractor types. It offers at least as much power as a contractor saw, but without requiring a dedicated 220V circuit. Expect to pay from 750 to 1,500 for hybrid table saws, which are sometimes described as souped-up contractor saws.
Hybrid saws come with enclosed cabinets, mimicking the look of cabinet saws, but they weigh less, averaging 275 to 325 pounds. They’re usually moved with a hand truck, but wheel kits are often available for them as well.
In short, the more horsepower (HP) in a table saw motor, the more cutting power the saw has. Smaller benchtop saws that typically feature horsepower in the range of ¾ HP to 1½ HP are sufficient for most things a larger table saw can cut; however, they may not leave quite as smooth a cut as a contractor or cabinet saw. Be aware that these ratings are typically shown in “amps” (e.g., 15 amps) and refer to how many amperes the tool draws. Benchtop tools are regular jobsite and workshop occupants, sizing everything from shelving to hardwoods for a woodworking project and to pressure-treated lumber for backyard projects.
Larger bench saws and contractor saws come with 2-HP to 4-HP motors, and cabinet table saws often feature 5-HP or larger motors. The more powerful motors run longer under heavy use without overheating (think cabinet shop where they’re used every day, all day, for years on end) and easily cut through denser materials, such as ironwood or Brazilian walnut.
Cutting Depth and Blade Size
Table saws are labeled by the size of the circular blade they accommodate; the vast majority take 10-inch blades, while a handful take 12-inch blades. The blade height and angles are adjustable, so it can make a shallow cut just a fraction of an inch deep as well as deeper cuts. The newest generation of table saws—many cordless or corded/cordless—spin a 7½-inch blade, similar to that on a circular saw.
The most common blade sizes for these saws are 10 inches and 12 inches. With a 10-inch table saw, users can often make a maximum cut up to 3½ inches deep (that enables the user to rip a 4×4 in half).
The fence on a table saw is the adjustable guide that holds the material in place while cutting. There are two fence styles that come with most table saws: one is a T-square fence, which is in all categories of table saw and built with varying degrees of quality based on the saw’s intended use. The other type of fence is a rack-and-pinion-style fence, which is found primarily in the benchtop category.
Some saws also come with extendable fences that either fold or slide out to accommodate larger sections of wood. Other table saws feature fences with embedded magnifiers that allow the user to better see the measurements on the saw when adjusting the fence. However, many users simply rely on a tape measure. By measuring from the fence to the tip of a blade tooth, the accuracy (or not) of the fence’s pointer doesn’t need to be depended upon or interpreted.
Table saws are key to ripping wide sheets of material, but the maximum width of material that will fit between the saw blade and the fence—the rip capacity—varies. Rip capacity starts at around 18 inches for entry-level benchtop saws and runs up to 60 inches or more for professional cabinet saws.
Depending on the planned projects, choose a table saw with a rip capacity large enough to accommodate the dimension of material. For example, if the goal is to build 2-foot-high toy boxes, a saw with a rip capacity of at least 24 inches can cut sections of plywood wide enough for the sides and back.
On the other hand, many pros use track saws for this purpose. Whether it’s cutting down a door to accommodate new flooring or sizing sheet stock for building a bench, track saws are light and accurate.
If you’re working in a closed workshop, dust collection ports will help keep the air dust-free and collect sawdust chips that would otherwise have to be swept up later. Table saws have dust collection ports designed to connect to a standard shop vacuum. Users need to run the workshop vacuum while operating the saw to catch dust and sawdust.
For cutting synthetic material outdoors, such as composite decking or PVC trim, it’s a good idea to put a box or bucket under the saw to catch the shavings if the saw is set up on the grass. Standing on a large sheet of cardboard or a drop cloth also helps. Once those shavings get in the grass, they’re nearly impossible to get out.
Tips for Using a Table Saw
Owners will doubtless spend many hours learning how to get the best from their table saw. The following quick tips provide a useful place to start:
- Read the manual carefully even if you have owned a table saw before; there will often be differences. It’s important to understand the safety features and know how to maximize performance.
- By law, all table saws must have a blade guard. Never operate the saw without it in place. The riving knife should only be removed if using a dado blade.
- Always wear eye protection. Ear defenders are also a good idea.
- Check the blade for damage before each work session. If there is a crack, missing teeth, or unexpected vibration, replace the blade immediately.
- There’s an old woodworking adage that you should measure twice and cut once. This can also apply to setting up a table saw. Adjust and then check before making each cut.
- Clean the table saw after use. Disconnect the power first, then use an ordinary nylon-bristle hand brush or cordless blower.
- Learning how to make featherboards, push sticks, and table saw jigs can improve safety, speed, and accuracy, particularly with repetitive tasks. It’s also very rewarding to make things yourself rather than buying them.
- Blade choice can have a dramatic impact on performance, even if the diameter remains the same. You can read more about the best table saw blades in a separate article.
The information above covers many of the key aspects of the best table saws as well as details on a range of high-quality options that will suit a variety of users. Although it will have answered the majority of questions that occur to potential buyers, some users might have more general-use questions. Some of the most popular questions have been answered below.
Q. What do I need to use a table saw?
Apart from protective goggles or safety glasses and a stand of some sort, everything you need should come with the saw. In addition to providing some basic tips for using the table saw above, there is a more in-depth beginner’s guide here.
Q. Can a 10-inch table saw cut a 4×4?
A few 10-inch table saws will cut a 4×4 in a single pass, but not many. Bear in mind that 4×4 refers to dimensioned lumber that is actually closer to 3½ inches square. A common maximum for 10-inch table saws is 3⅛ inches, though the cut can usually be completed by turning the material over and running it through the saw again.
Q. Can I put a table saw on a miter saw stand?
It might be possible, but it is not recommended. Miter saw bases are fixed differently, so the result would probably be unsafe.
Q. What can I use for a table saw stand?
A sturdy bench can work, and it isn’t difficult to find plans for DIY table saw stands. You could also consider investing in a purpose-built stand.
Q. Where should you stand when using a table saw?
You should usually stand behind the saw table and to the left of the blade. Make sure you are comfortable and not stretching. If working with large sheet material, it’s a good idea to have someone support it on the out-feed side.
Why Trust Bob Vila
Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series including “This Old House” and “Bob Vila’s Home Again,” he popularized and became synonymous with “do-it-yourself” home improvement.
Over the course of his decades-long career, Bob Vila has helped millions of people build, renovate, repair, and live better each day—a tradition that continues today with expert yet accessible home advice. The Bob Vila team distills need-to-know information into project tutorials, maintenance guides, tool 101s, and more. These home and garden experts then thoroughly research, vet, and recommend products that support homeowners, renters, DIYers, and professionals in their to-do lists.