Festool Kapex on order, what stand. Festool mitre saw stand

Festool Kapex on order, what stand?

Just ordered a Kapex and take delivery this week. almost bought there collapsable stand but the more I read the more people dont actually like tham.

I’m currently running a DeWALT sliding on the rigid MSUV, any suggestions as to what and why I should buy?

I carry my tools in a trailer and usually roll my miter saw a few feet within the trailer, or inside the house.

tjbnwi

I like the UG stand a lot. I have no issues with it what so ever. If you don’t want to pull/roll it up a staircase, turn 4 locking devices and you can lift the saw and bracket right off the stand. Carry the saw up the stairs, bring the stand up with the wings on the next trip. The wings nest on the stand, you can move the entire set up at one time. If you need to move the stand with the saw in the operational position make sure you tilt it back on the wheels, don’t lift from the other side to move the saw.

The wings when installed properly work very well. They also fit the the MFT and CMS.

CrpntrFrk

I wish you could tag people here on CT cause I would tag Calidecks. He has a pretty sweet set up with the Bosch gravity rise and the Kapex. I do believe that is the set up I will be getting.:thumbsup:

Calidecks

I wish you could tag people here on CT cause I would tag Calidecks. He has a pretty sweet set up with the Bosch gravity rise and the Kapex. I do believe that is the set up I will be getting.:thumbsup:

Here she is! I just ordered an 8′ custom fence for it as well. It seems heavy, but loading it in a vehicle couldn’t be more easier. Just set the front on the tailgate and lift the back up and in.

Mike. _

Calidecks

That’s the Gravity Rise Stand with the BestFence rails and fence kit by FastCap. You can order as many fence sections to make it as long as you want with the connectors and the third hand. The third hand is a leg to hold it up on the end, once you get too long with the fence. You can also order the fence by the foot. It’s 25 bucks a foot. If your just using one section of fence you don’t need the third hand, on the gravity rise.

Mike. _

Festool sliding compound mitre saw KAPEX KS 60 E: Angle Range

Roofcheck

That’s the Gravity Rise Stand with the BestFence rails and fence kit by FastCap. You can order as many fence sections to make it as long as you want with the connectors and the third hand. The third hand is a leg to hold it up on the end, once you get too long with the fence. You can also order the fence by the foot. It’s 25 bucks a foot. If your just using one section of fence you don’t need the third hand, on the gravity rise.

Calidecks

Total cost, stand, fence and kit to attach it to the kapex, was about 900 bucks. But it really is a great setup. I’m not sure what I like better, the saw or the stand and fence system. It sets up in about 3 minutes. And breaks down in about the same. Although I spend a little longer breaking it down because I vacuum and blow it all out before I load it.

Mike. _

tonylumps

Gravity Rise for the Kapex Is the way to go. I have 2 other stands. The Fastcap with all the bells and the Ridgid The only one I ever use now is the Bosch. Even if I have to only make 1 cut. It is that easy to use. And the Fastcap fences are great.

Attachments

N.Schiffer

Thanks guys, I’ll look at the Bocsh one, how maneuverable is it through door ways in a home.

Basswood I follow you on and love the design.

basswood

Thanks guys, I’ll look at the Bocsh one, how maneuverable is it through door ways in a home.

Basswood I follow you on and love the design.

Sounds like I’ll have to add wheels for you to bite.

Calidecks

Thanks guys, I’ll look at the Bocsh one, how maneuverable is it through door ways in a home. Basswood I follow you on and love the design.

Outside to outside of the widest part ( wheel to wheel ) is 27-3/4″. But if by the odd chance you needed to get into anything smaller the saw disconnects from the stand by popping two levers. Then it lifts right off. At this point you could probably get through a 24″ opening which the need to do that would be highly unlikely, but possible. I did a whole home Reno that included crown throughout. Sometimes I set up in the living room, but most of the time it was set up outside on the porch, not because of its size but because the material was too long to maneuver inside.

Mike. _

Festool mitre saw stand

Miter Saw to DeWALT Stand. Spacer Mounting Kit

Mount just about ANY BRAND miter saw to the DW7231 Mounting Brackets so that you can use DeWALT DWX723, DW723, DWX724 and DWX725B stand.

Fitment is for various models, but if your miter saw is not listed in the selection below, please contact us and we can see if we have something that will work!

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Festool mitre saw stand

In Jesper Cook’s recent article, “Miter Angles and Miter Saws,” Cook points out that miter saws aren’t designed for finish carpenters. I believe the same can be said for miter saw stands.

There have been countless articles, reviews and tips written and videoed on the ideal miter saw stand (for example: Lamar Horton’s “Wooden Miter Saw Stand” and Gary Katz’s “Make a Miter Saw Work Station“). And while not everyone agrees on what’s “perfect,” most trim carpenters would agree that continuous material support is critical.

Material Support

Continuous support provides needed stability to long runs of molding, makes material easier to handle, acts as a clamping surface for other tasks such as coping, and, most importantly, allows for more accurate cuts. I’ve botched too many cuts on trim that wasn’t seated quite right. Cutting trim that’s not flush to the base and table, or out of square to the fence, can cause joints to be way off.

Mobility

In addition to continuous support, a must-have for me is mobility. I need to be able to move my equipment around my worksite without having to break everything down and put it back together again. I also can’t stand making unnecessary trips hauling equipment around when a more efficient way to transport and set up is readily available—it’s inefficient, aggravating, and costs me time and money.

The Search

I’ve looked at pretty much every commercially made miter saw stand on the market, and with the exception of Festool’s UG-Kapex wheeled stand, which is designed to fit the Kapex (see photo, right), I’ve never found a wheeled stand with true continuous material support. In fact, the only non-wheeled stand currently produced with continuous support that will fit the saws I own is FastCap’s Best Fence.

Of all the wheeled stands out there, Bosch’s T4B has always stood out to me. It’s simple, doesn’t take much to break down, and works with most SCMS saws.

A few months ago, I got a Bosch T4B for free with the purchase of a Bosch 5312 SCMS. The 5312 is nearly identical to Bosch’s now-discontinued 5412, minus the adjustable handle. (Replacing the stock blade with a Forrest Chopmaster has really yielded some nice results.)

After mounting the saw to the T4B, I really liked the ease of set up, the tool-less expansion rail adjustments for material support, and the fact that it was mobile. One nice thing about the T4B is that there are no legs for the extensions. This allows you to move the entire stand around with the supports extended.

Just like it is, this stand is perfect for cutting dimensional lumber. However, without continuous support, it’s virtually useless for trim work…at least pleasant trim work.

The Stand

The 5312 and other Bosch saws have on-board base extensions used to support work pieces near the saw’s base. When pushed all the way in, the tops of the extensions rest on ledges machined into the base. The extensions move in and out on rods running under the saw on rails. The extensions are locked in position with clamping levers.

To add continuous support to the T4B, I built wings out of 3/4-in. birch plywood and wrapped the edges in 3/4-in. maple. I made each wing 11 1/2 in. wide and 58 in. long, giving me over 11 feet of support. I used the ledges of the base as a place to rest the wing, the same ledge that the extension base slides over. To do this, I had to completely remove the sliding base extensions. I secured the wings to the base using the rods from the extension base. They were easily removed by loosening some set screws.

To join the rods to the wings, I nailed and glued two pieces of plywood together and.hole screwed them to the underside of the wings.

I then drilled two holes through the doubled-up plywood as a place to run the rods through.

As a grip to move the rods in and out of the rails, I made some wooden knobs, drilled them to accept the rods, and placed a set screw through each knob to hold the rods to the knobs.

I use the saw’s clamping levers to lock the rods to the base. It makes for a really secure connection.

The far ends of the wings rest on the T4B’s work height support.

To secure it, I ran a carriage bolt through the wing and work height support,…

…and I used a 4 1/4-in. tapered jig knob from Rockler to hold it down. (In hindsight, I should have used threaded inserts rather than carriage bolts, which would have allowed me to avoid having to drill through the wings.)

This also makes it easy to put together and take apart. Taking the wings apart and putting them back takes about 30 seconds.

It’s very simple, doesn’t have too many bells and whistles, and works great for my needs.

It also makes for a nice worktable. Even with the wings on, I can still move the saw around when needed. And when I need extra support for coping or planing, I use a FastCap Upperhand underneath one of the wings.

Chris Knighton ‘s interest in carpentry started as a young boy, working with his father building fences, gates, and sheds at their family home. Years later, Chris spent some time working with a seasoned carpenter, learning to build porches and decks. His real interest is in finish work, but that didn’t come until being forced to renovate his own home.

Though not currently in the profession, Chris’ passion for finish work has fueled a constant study and learning process. Recently, Chris has learned to design built-ins, mantlepieces, and other projects using SketchUp.

Chris, his wife, and their four children live in Northwest Louisiana.

25 Responses to “Modified Bosch T4B Gravity-Rise Miter Stand”

• sal June 22, 2012 Nice job chris. I actually just did a similar build for my DeWALT stand. Reply
• Chris June 22, 2012 Thanks Sal! If you get time, take a photo of your stand I’d like to see it. Chris Reply
• Horacio June 23, 2012 Hi, I have the DeWALT also could you send some pics please.Thanks Reply
• Raymond Valois June 23, 2012 I also have the DeWALT miter saw stand and I modified it as well I will up load a couple of pics later. it is still a work in progress but would gladly take any feedback on improvements. Raymond Reply
• Raymond Valois July 8, 2012 Here are a couple of pics of my DeWALT miter saw set up. I built it a while ago and I stare at it looking for better ways to improve it. Mine may not be as refined as Chris’ but it does do the trick. [img]http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/MitersawstandA.jpg[/img] [img]http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/MitersawstandB.jpg[/img] Raymond V. Reply
• Jesse Wright June 22, 2012 Chris, Great stand! I have the kapex UG stand and love it but your Bosch base is much more functional for other saws. I may look at this rig for a future saw. Nice article too! Reply
• Carl DuguayJune 22, 2012 Good job on the mods to the stand. I’ve the Bosch TS2000 stand (for my Bosch portable table saw), which uses the same Gravity-Rise feature that’s on your T4B. Couldn’t ask for an easier way to cart my saw to and from job sites or around the shop. Reply
• Chris June 22, 2012 Thanks Jessie! I’d sure love to have your setup in addition to this one! One day I hope? Reply
• Chris June 22, 2012 Carl, I have that same stand and love it! However, like the T4B it’s missing material support, i.e., out feed and left side. Bosch makes extensions but they are severely lacking. I’ve considered doing some mods to the stand and add solid support. Maybe for another article? Reply
• Dezri Dean June 22, 2012 Where exactly did it say- “Cook points out that miter saws aren’t designed for finish carpenters”?? I did read where he said ” Miter saw gauges confuse a lot of finish carpenters for one simple reason—they aren’t designed for finish carpentry, they’re designed for framing and stairs. Let me show you what I mean.” While he said THAT and I agree to a point! (depending on education and experience) I think you are misleading us to make a point! I truly feel that any woodworker with a brain could figure it out even through trial and error. I have and will continue to use my miter saw for fine woodwork including compound angles. I don’t expect a scale marked in degrees to be accurate to 1/100 OR 1/10 of a degree and am capable of compensating for the crudity of such, I just make a couple of test cuts first. (I also did an initial check and adjustment of my miter saw!) Anyone that cannot do that cannot expect perfect cuts! It isn’t the equipment so much as it is the skill and execution! Reply
• Chris June 23, 2012 Derzi- Thanks for your comment. You’re correct, Jesper never specifically said miter saws weren’t designed for finish carpentry (I didn’t quote him saying that), however, I believe one could make that inference based upon a miter saw’s miter gauge not being designed for finish work. I can’t see how anything has been misleading? While understanding how to apply miter gauges when roof framing vs finish work isn’t necessarily high level mathematics it can certainly be confusing to some. I’m sure there are fine carpenters out there that get the correct angles all the time but have never thought about the mechanics of it much. Jesper’s article just explains it, that’s all. I don’t know who ever has ever suggested not using a miter saw for finish work? Reply
• Chris June 23, 2012 Dezri, not Derzi…sorry about that! Reply
• Sonny WieheJune 23, 2012 I think Dezri Dean makes a very valid point about the misleading nature of Chris’s opening statement and is worth following up on. I don’t think it was intentional; perhaps an overzealousness in striving for continuity with a prior TIC article. (just a guess). To be clear, I believe miter saws ARE primarily designed and intended for finish carpenters. If not, what aspect of construction would they be intended for? I also believe miter saw stands ARE designed and intended to support miter saws (and therefore are designed for finish carpenters) to which their name refers. Again, what else would they be intended to be designed for? Further, I think the crux of this issue centers around the holy grail search for each individuals perfect miter saw set up. That problem is going to be defined differently by each carpenter’ unique budget, transportation, site, and work limitations/ demands. Those are the core reasons why there are so many design options being marketed to us; someone is always going to be able to design a better mouse trap at different price points. I believe Chris would have been on less controversial ground by opening with something similar to his statement: “(sic) while not everyone agrees on what’s “perfect,” most trim carpenters would agree that continuous material support is critical” He does a great job supporting this thesis with regard to the Bosch T4B. I really appreciate Chris taking the time to show us how well he achieved his particular goal with this moderately priced, widely adaptable, and commercially available model. Thanks Chris! Sonny Reply
• Dezri Dean June 22, 2012 “And here I must needs observe, that as reason is the substance and origin of the mathematics, so by stating and squaring everything by reason, and by making the most rational judgment of things, every man may be, in time, master of every mechanic art. I had never handled a tool in my life; and yet, in time, by labour, application, and contrivance, I found at last that I wanted nothing but I could have made it, especially if I had had tools.” Quote from Highland Woodworking site AND Robinson Crusoe’s tool chest article! http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/blog6/062212.html?utm_source=iContactutm_medium=emailutm_campaign=%20Old%20Messagesutm_content=RobinsonCrusoe%27sToolChest6%2F2012Reply
• Horacio June 23, 2012 Very nice, simple practical and not expensive. kapex UG is a very nice set up but 2,000 is toooo much for my wallet right now. Reply
• Chris June 23, 2012 Thanks Horacio. I too would love to have the Kapex and UG! Reply
• David LemkeJune 23, 2012 The old “Chop Saw Stand” has always been a hassle. I think all the latest little stands are designed just to drain your wallet. Look how much you have to fiddle with them just to make them functional, they would not hold up to framing. I probably will stick with the old 2×12 or floor joist modified to flush out with the saw and some saw horses, until I can build the one I have designed in my head. Which will be a lighter, accurate, efficient and professional setup. My stand would need to be able to withstand multiple units worth of heavy framing stock, then roll into siding, usually pretty fine cedar soffit and siding work, and then go inside and knock out some nice tight finish work. Then the next job, hopefully, and repeat. Good to see guys who care and try. Burning out nail slinger… Reply
• Emanuel June 23, 2012 Nice work and excellent details. I’m in the process of upgrading my miter saw. This info will be very useful. Thanks for sharing. Emanuel Reply
• Chris June 23, 2012 Thanks Emanuel! Reply
• Ian R June 25, 2012 Thanks for the write-up Chris, and for being willing to share your ideas! If you would, it would be great to see woodworkers in these articles wearing safety glasses when operating a chop saw. We’ve got a lot of young folks coming up in this business, and they could certainly benefit from the good example we can set. As we know, it only takes a split-second to lose an eye, and to make matters worse it is more often the case that our tax dollars will pay the medical bills for an injury like that (either through increased worker’s comp premiums or our state taxes!) Please pardon my soap-boxing, and keep up the creativity! Reply
• Chris L. January 22, 2014 Chris, Thanks for writing this. I recently purchased a new Bosch 12″ saw with gravity rise stand and this is the first accessory I made for it. I used the same dimensions as you gave. I used hanger bolts in place of the carriage bolts you used and all-thread couplers for the knobs (I plan on getting the Rockler knobs you used later). I had to rout a few notches in the underside of the wings to avoid interference with the saw in a couple of places. I plan on adding an extension fence and flip stops… and maybe some undermount cubbies to hold some quick clamps. Again, thanks for writing this and thanks to TIC for posting it. Chris L. Reply
• Chris Knighton January 23, 2014 Chris L.- Thanks for the comment. I’m glad you found the article useful. I still use my setup everyday and unless I plan to move it with the wings attached, I rarely use the rockler knob or even the rods. I just let the carriage bolt hold it in place. Within a few months after this article was published, I saw that FastCap added wings for the Bosch stand to their “Best Fence” lineup. I wondered if this article might have encouraged their development? Thanks again for the comment as you will most certainly appreciate the continous support the wings give you. Chris Knighton Reply
• Alstair HickAugust 17, 2015 I have already a basic miter saw stand last month. Can you please tell me the difference between a gravity rise miter stand and basic miter saw stand. Reply
• Don April 13, 2017 Excellent mod, Chris. I wish I had seen it before I bought a Best Fence. Would have saved some money. I love my T4B but I came across a forum where a person asked if he could cut 7 inches off a 16 foot 2×12 with that stand (15′-5″ to one side of the blade) without additional support. A Bosch rep answered that he could. Makes you wonder where Bosch gets their employees. Reply
• Bearpaw October 19, 2019 You guys sound like you’re not busy enough so in the mean time lets pick apart his words for fun. Lol I enjoyed his article and it has me thinking how I can improve my miter saws abilities. I have several. I use my milwaukee cordless most of the time it has been a great saw for onsite use, and with the improved batteries it will last several days before needing recharged. My least favorite is my kapex it seems way over rated. I also use a Makita model ls1219 it has a very large capacity about 16 1/2 ounces of cutting on 90 deg I use it for cutting wood I cut on my sawmill. Big powerful etc. I also have several other saws for various reasons some for cutting solid surface or aluminum etc. Some because I was out of town and needed one. Im interested in seeing some of ya’lls setups. Reply

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Home » Latest Tool Reviews » Power Tools » Miter Saw » Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw Review

What’s NEW on the Festool KAPEX KS 120 REB?

Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw

Manufacturer: Festool Model number: Ks 120 REB Price: 1475.00 Power source: 110 V 1600 Watt Motor size: 1600 Watt Direct Drive Weight: 47 lbs

All miters saw are basically the same, there I said it! Now that I got that out of the way, the Festool KAPEX is the most advanced sliding compound miter saw I’ve ever seen. Now there is the upgraded Festool Kapex KS 120 REB.

At a cost of 1500 many Pros just shake their heads. Lots of guys I know say that Festool pieces are well designed, for sure, but the advantages of the tools themselves don’t justify the price.

Do You Buy Cheap – Or Invest In Your Tools?

Well If you’re a Pro contractor you need to start looking at your tools as an investment… I’ve had my Kapex for at least 8 maybe 10 years. When you amortize that this over 8 years that 187 a year or 150 at 10 years.

Do I use a Kapex daily? Hell no, most of the time, we’re a cordless Jobsite, and my guys use my stuff. Similar to my preferred pickup truck, I prefer to drive a Chevy at the Jobsite and a Mercedes at home… to be clear, I don’t own a Mercedes, wish I did.

My point is, I use the Kapex [Mercedes] where it best fits in what I do. It lives in my shop where we build mantles, bookcases and finish components where real precision carpentry matters. I would NOT want to subject my Kapex to the job-site abuse my cordless “Chevy” miter saw endures.

Then there are others who perform such high-quality carpentry that they want/need a Kapex on their site – that’s cool too! Well now that you understand how I view the Festool Kapex, let’s talk about what s new with the Kapex REB.

What Was Updated – Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw?

Alright buckle your seat-belt for these changes, some of them are pretty cool!

Larger Extension Tables

To start Festool upgraded the Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw slide-out extension tables, making their footprint bigger and better stability. They also put the MiterFast finder at the rear of the tool. The MiterFast makes the transfer of inside and outside angles from the workpiece to the saw quick and easy without complex angle calculations.

Dust Collection – Locking Hose Connection

Festool plans to make this upgrade on all their dust ports moving forward. The new connection is effective at collecting dust and now allows the hose to lock in place and prevent accidental disconnects. The hose port accommodates 27mm inside diameter and 36 mm outside diameter.

The flexible and removable rubber dust hood to the rear of the blade deflects waste material into the directional dust port for best-in-class 92% efficiency. We liked that you can either completely remove this hood when cutting larger material or simply fold it back on itself to create more clearance.

When you consider this locking hose connection and the already existing Kapex rubber dust hood you have a winning combination. The rubber dust hood directs the ejection of sawdust from the blade into the dust collection port.

Pro Tip – We found that the Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw has the best dust extraction when you cut/shorten your hose length to 6 feet and use a 36mm Festool hose.

Magnetic Electronic Brake

The 1,600-Watt motor in the Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw utilizes a direct drive for a more efficient transfer of energy to the blade. The motor also has a magnetic brake to reduce the time needed for the blade to spin down. The electric brake that will stop the blade within 3-seconds. This brake has a magnet around the armature, there are no contact points, and will not wear down over time.

New Kapex Stand

So, the old Kapex stand worked with a little v-groove. The new stand redesigned this groove so you know exactly where the clamp goes. The stand design is sturdy, super maneuverable, and kinda cool looking but it does take up some space in the trailer.

One cool thing about the stand is that the CT Mini vacuum fits perfectly underneath it. This saves space and reduces s trip hazards.

Not New – But Festool Appreciated

Some of the features that we’ve all come to love the Kapex for still remain. Here are a few that I like:

Festool Warranty – Often Overlooked

All Festool power tools include a 3-year wear-and-tear warranty, 2-day standard repair time, and 1-month satisfaction guarantee.

Festool KAPEX KSC 60 Accessories Range

This means they replace brushes for free, address wear and tear issues, and fix the tool no matter what. When you think about this- it’s a Pro warranty, not a DIY approach!

Kapex Rail Forward Design

The Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw features a rail forward design that increases precision and creates a compact footprint. With a rail-forward design, the Kpaex REB can be placed against a wall for all cutting tasks, maximizing the workspace. The rails are 30 mm in diameter and wide apart. They were redesigned to further reduce deflection and head play, especially when tilted to a 45-degree bevel. The rail forward design has long been a favorite in the shop and in tight working locations, like up against a wall. It also assists when transporting or storing the saw.

Kapex Portability

The Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw weighs (47 pounds) allowing the Kapex REB easy to move around the job site. The Kapex’s headlocks down making it compact and preventing head movement. A two-handle location keeps the Kapex REB close to your center of gravity which allows for a safer way to carry the saw.

Kapex Counter Spring Balanced Bevel

When using the Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw, I couldn’t help but appreciate the bevel adjustment. When adjusting the bevel on the Kapex REB a counter spring balances the saw head. This keeps the saw head in position even when it is not locked in place. This makes dialing in a micro-bevel angle adjustment easier and more accurate. Bevel gauges are on both sides of the saw for quick, easy reference.

Kapex Bevel Lock Knob

Since we’re talking about bevels, it’s hard to overlook the Kapex REB “Bevel Lock Knob.” The knob conveniently located on the top of the Kapex REB to control the bevel positive detents and to lock the bevel angle.

The bevel knob has three settings: positive detents at 0 and.45 degrees, free movement between.45 and 45 degrees and free movement up to 47 degrees. Bevels can be made to the left or right and the bevel gauge appears on both sides of the saw. You DO need to remove the fence in order to achieve a 45-degree bevel – man I wish that weren’t necessary.

Special Cutting Position

If I said you can have a 12” miter saw in a 10” blade would you take it?

One thing I learned about the Kapex REB is that it has a “special cutting position” that, locks the saw head in and allows a deeper cut at the fence. When employed, it provides greater than usual cutting capacity by utilizing the back portion of the blade more effectively. A lever controls these features and allows you to cut crown molding up to 6-5/8″ in the nested position and vertical cuts 4-3/4″ x 3/4″

Crown Stop with Base Extension

Sold as an optional accessory, the Crown Stop with Base Extension (494 369) attaches to the left and right of the Kapex using a V-Groove and locking knob providing additional support surface and aiding in the utilization of the special cut position. The crown stop allows the Kapex to be used in the special cutting position to cut crown molding up to 6-5/8″ in the nested position.

Festool Dual-line lasers

A favorite feature of ours is the dual-line laser. The laser is adjustable and projects a dual-line to either side of the blade to accurately define the cut area for precise cut placement.

This laser has spring-loaded carriages inside the tool that protect the laser during transport. One tip that a lot of folks don’t know is that the laser lens can be cleaned over time for better visibility.

Deck Height

One feature on the that I’ve always appreciated and I’m sure is no coincidence is that the deck height of the Kapex matches the height of our Systainer 1 storage container. That means I can use one or more Systainers to support material being cut.

Kapex Trenching [Kerf Cutting] Capability

Another unique feature of the Festool Kapex KS 120 REB Miter Saw is a special trenching capability. Simply flip the green trenching lever forward, and a twist to set cut depth. These features can be used to cut kerfs and trenches to create lap joints, dados or bend the board.

Conclusion

We think the Festool Kapex KS 120 REB makes sense for contractors looking for t should make this saw the number one for a miter saw functionality.