HEAVY DUTY DIY Folding Sawhorses | Video tutorial Plans. Easy saw horses
Log Sawhorse Plans
This step by step diy woodworking project is about log sawhorse plans. The project features instructions for building a sturdy sawbuck for cutting logs. You need 1x4s and 2x4s to get the job done. This is an under 25 project that only takes a few hours to build. Make sure you take a look over the rest of plans to see alternatives and more projects for your garden.
When buying the lumber, you should select the planks with great care, making sure they are straight and without any visible flaws (cracks, knots, twists, decay). Investing in cedar or other weather resistant lumber is a good idea, as it will pay off on the long run. Use a spirit level to plumb and align the components, before inserting the galvanized screws, otherwise the project won’t have a symmetrical look. If you have all the materials and tools required for the project, you could get the job done in about a day. See all my Premium Plans HERE.
Log sawhorse plans
- 3 pieces of 2×4 lumber – 8′
- 4 pieces of 1×4 lumber – 8′
- 6 pieces of 4″ carriage bolts
- 40 pieces of 1 5/8″ screws
Hammer, Tape measure, Framing square, Level
Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander
Safety Gloves, Safety Glasses
One day
How to build a heavy–duty sawbuck
The first step of the project is to build the legs for the log sawhorse. As you can easily notice in the diagram, you need to make a few cuts to the 2×4 beams. Make sure you cut the bottom of the legs at 60 degrees, by using a miter saw. Smooth the cut edges with sandpaper and remove the excess with a damp cloth.
Next, you need to assemble the X-shaped supports for the sawbuck. Align the components with attention, using the information from the diagram. If you want to build a folding sawbuck, you should drill a single hole through the supports and fit a 4″ carriage bolt. Make sure you fit a washer between the legs, otherwise they won’t fold easily.
If you want to build a permanent sawbuck, you should install several carriage bolts or drive in multiple 2 1/2″ screws.
Next, you need to fit 1×4 slats to the sides of the supports, in order to create a rigid structure. Drill pilot holes and insert 1 5/8″ screws to lock the braces to the legs in a professional manner.
Build the diagonal braces for the sawbuck from 1×4 lumber. Cut both ends of the braces at 75 degrees, using a saw.
Fit the diagonal braces to the sides of the sawbuck, making sure the supports are perfectly plumb. Drill pilot holes through the braces and insert 1 5/8″ screws into the legs. It is essential to install the braces on different direction on the sides of the sawbuck, as to provide extra-rigidity to the frame.
When cutting logs on the sawhorse, you need to make sure the bottom legs won’t move from position. Therefore, drill pilot holes through the bottom of the legs and use string to create tension between the legs.
Last but not least, you should take care of the finishing touches, as to be able to continue the process with the rest of the steps. Therefore, we recommend you to check if all the components are installed properly into place.
Top Tip: Check out the rest of the workshop projects for more inspiration for your backyard.
This woodworking project was about log sawhorse plans. If you want to see more outdoor plans, check out the rest of our step by step projects and follow the instructions to obtain a professional result.
HEAVY DUTY DIY Folding Sawhorses | Video tutorial Plans
Holy cow! Things are nuts right now guys! So since we’re all currently on lock-down at home, I imagine most of you are like me and trying to be productive with what you have lying around. A few weeks ago I shared my SUPER SIMPLE garage shelves if you’re in an organizing mood, but what if you need more work space?
Traditional sawhorses are super strong but big and bulky (read: hard to store). Folding plastic models are easy to store, but typically kinda flimsy (and surprisingly expensive for what they are). I wanted sawhorses that could do it all. Strong enough to support a tank, but folding and portable so I can tuck them away when not in use.
The best part of DIY sawhorses is the fact they are totally customizeable. You can easily adjust the dimensions of the plans below to meet your needs better. Watch the build video for all the details or keep scrolling for the cut list and diagrams.
Materials List: (makes 2)
- (1) 2 x 6 x 96″ boards
- (5) 2 x 4 x 96″ boards
- (1) 2 x 2 x 96″ boards
- (1) 3/8″ hardwood dowel
- (4) 1/4″ x 5″ lag screws
- (8) 1/4″ washers
- (8) heavy duty non-mortise door hinges
- 3″ wood screws
- wood glue
1. Cut Material
Using a circular saw or miter saw, cut boards to length. Cut top plate, runner and cross supports square. Cut legs at 15 degrees off square on both ends, with the angles pointing the same direction (creating a parallelogram).
Measure 1/2″ from the top edge. Adjust the blade of your saw to 45 degrees and make a cut, removing a small triangle section from the point.
2. Attach Legs
Align the top edge of the legs to both faces of the runner, flush to the ends.
Using a power drill, like the RYOBI 18V Cordless Drill/Driver, attach a 3″ non-mortise door hinge, connecting legs to runner.
3. Add Cross Supports
Align cross supports on the inner face of leg pairs. Allow a 1/4″ space between the bottom of upper support and the top edge of the lower support so they don’t knock into each other when the sawhorse is closed. Attach cross supports to legs using glue and 3″ screws.
4. Attach Top Plate
Align the 36″ long top plate on the top of the runner. Allow a 1-1/2″ overhang on both ends. Using a cordless impact driver, like the RYOBI 18V Cordless 1/4″ Impact Driver, secure in place using glue and 3″ screws.
5. Add Locking Arms
Align locking arms horizontally, on top of the upper cross support. Clamp in place. Using a 1/4″ drill bit, Drill through the side of arms and into the legs. Secure using 1/4″ x 5″ lag screws and washers.
6. Add Dowels
Drill vertically through locking arms and into the the top of the cross supports. Move arms out of the way and insert 3/8″ dowels into the holes. Secure using wood glue. Trim dowels approx. 1-1/2″ above the cross supports.
7. Get to work!
Think of your next project and start marking something awesome.
Each sawhorse only takes about 10 seconds to set up.
And I love the little bit of security I get having the gate latch on the side holding the legs together when the sawhorses aren’t being used.
When closed, they are only 5-1/2″ wide. Plenty slim to slide into those little nooks and crannies in the garage.
These bad boys are SUPER STURDY! We’ve already been using them as we build our new house. They’ve withstood heavy beams and more than their fair share of abuse.
What do you think of these entry levels builds? You like getting back to the basics or are you yearning for something more complicated?
Ready to build your own sawhorse? Feel free to pin the image below.
How To Build A Folding Sawhorse – Quick and Easy
For the amateur or the professional woodworker, a good pair of sawhorses is an essential element to any project. See our full review of the best sawhorse to buy. Steve Ramsey of Woodworking For Mere Mortals takes the simple task of making your own sawhorses one step further.
The only real problem with basic sawhorses is they take up a lot of room in your shop or garage. This simple folding sawhorse design from Steve is very easy, quick, and will solve the storage problem basic sawhorses cause.
The best part, you only need two 2x4x8’s to build each sawhorse (not including the shelf).
What You’ll Need
- 2. 2x4x8’s
- 1. 1/2 inch 4×4 Sheet of Plywood
- 2 1/2 inch Screws
- 2. 3 inch Strap Hinges (with screws)
- 4. 2 inch x 1/2 inch Dowels
- Cordless Drill
- Miter Saw or Table Saw
- Band Saw or Jigsaw
- Wood Glue
Cut The 2x4x8’s
Like I said earlier, you only need two 2x4x8’s for each sawhorse. The best way to start is to cut all of your base material in the beginning.
Sawhorse Base
2x4x8 number one. cut into 3 equal lengths at 31.5 inches.
2x4x8 number two. cut one piece at 31.5 inches, and one piece at 48 inches.
The Shelf
The remaining section of 2x4x8 number two will need to be cut into four strips at 3/4 inches wide x 15 inches long. Or, if you don’t want to go through the trouble of cutting a 2×4 into strips, just purchase a 1×2 strip and cut to length.
The shelf should be a 1/2 inch plywood rectangle at 13.5 inches x 27.5 inches.
Click here to view the cut list and full plans for this sawhorse.
Cut 19 Degree Angles
Using a table saw or miter saw, cut the ends of each 31.5 inch board at a 19 degree angle. The angles should be parallel on each board.
Make sure you are not changing the overall length of each board.
As shown in the picture below, you can save a bit of time by setting your saw at 19 degrees when cutting the boards in described in step one.
Drill Holes
Drill holes on one end of each 31.5 inch leg to connect the leg to the top of the sawhorse. Simply ensure you are using the correct bit for the size screw you will use.
On that same note, be sure to use a screw long enough to penetrate both boards, but not long enough to drill all the way through the top board.
For one, I don’t work for Kreg, nor do they pay me to endorse their products. However, if you don’t have one of their Kreg Jigs, you are missing out. If you need to make a hole, this is the tool for you.
Watch this quick video below to learn more.
Pre Drill and Secure 3 Inch Strap Hinges
Using a straight edge, draw a straight line 4 inches from each edge of the 48 inch brace board to mark where the sawhorse legs will be attached.
Center your leg on the top board and, using your strap hinge, pre drill the holes where the hinge will be attached to the leg and brace board.
Attach the hinge to the leg, and attach the leg using the appropriately sized screws (2 1/2 inch) to the top board.
Note: You are only attaching the leg so you can accurately mark the hinge holes on the other leg.
You are probably thinking, “how am I supposed to fit a pencil in between the boards to mark the holes?” Well, all you need to do is cut a pencil down to about 2 inches and there you go. It’s also a good idea to have a few stubby pencils laying around for this purpose.
Unscrew the legs from the top brace board. Next, pre drill the holes you marked, and attach the hinge.
Mark A Line Halfway Down Each Leg
Now you should have your legs ready to modify for the shelf. Using a straight edge, mark a line halfway down the sawhorse legs. This is where you will drill the holes for the dowels that will hold up the shelf brackets.
Note: If you don’t need a shelf, skip to step 8.
Drill Holes For Dowel Rods
Drill a 1/2 inch hole in the center of each line on your legs. Just remember, if you are using a different sized dowel rod, you have to adjust the size of the hole. For instance, if I am using 3/4 inch dowels, I need to drill a 3/4 inch hole.
Note: Steve Ramsey has a nice drill press to help with this step, but you can drill the holes with a cordless drill as well.
Attach Dowel Rods
As always, add a generous amount of wood glue to each hole before hammering in the dowel rods.
Place the dowel rods in each hole and lightly tap until all dowels are approximately the same length. Wipe off any excess glue.
Secure Legs Onto Top Sawhorse Brace
You probably already feel like you’ve done this, and you are right. Now, just repeat the steps and attach the legs to the top brace.
This sawhorse is sturdy enough at this point, but adding the shelf only increases the strength and sturdiness.
Drill Holes, Notch, And Attach Shelf Brackets
Using the sawhorse legs as a guide, hold your 15 inch strips against the center line on the legs, and mark where you will drill each hole to attach onto the dowel rods.
On one of the holes on each board, notch out a hole so it can be lifted off the dowel rod.
Note: Steve uses a Band saw to make his notch, but a jigsaw, or most other saws will work if you are careful.
Secure Plywood Shelf
Secure your 13.5 inch x 27.5 inch plywood shelf onto the brackets. Ensure you do not screw into the dowel rods, or your shelf will not be able to fold as intended.
All Finished!
Time to sit back, relax, and enjoy all the extra room you just created with your new foldable sawhorses.
How to Build a Quick and Easy Sawhorse
A few months ago, Craftsman flew me up to Chicago to visit their Craftsman Experience shop for a blogger summit. (If you’re ever in Chicago, I definitely recommend stopping by the Craftsman Experience and checking it out. It’s free and open to the public.) I spent the day playing with tools and learning how to build various projects under the tutelage of several DIY bloggers. One project that I really enjoyed and found pretty dang useful was from Timothy Dahl, owner of the DIY blog Charles and Hudson.
Timothy showed us how to make a simple, yet sturdy sawhorse that even a handyman noob like myself could build without screwing up too much.
Why Do I Want to Build a Sawhorse?
Good question. Sawhorses come in handy in a variety of situations. The first and most obvious situation where a sawhorse is useful is when you need to saw something. Duh. A sawhorse gives the board you’re sawing the support and elevation you need to make a clean cut.
A pair of sawhorses can also be used to make a makeshift work table or scaffold. Just use the two sawhorses as the legs, and place a sheet of plywood over it. When I worked as a painter one summer back in high school, my boss would use a pair of sawhorses and an old door he found on the side of the road to make his worktable. Makeshift tables from sawhorses particularly come in handy when you’re setting up for a garage sale.
Let’s see. Other reasons you should build a sawhorse… How about for a makeshift seesaw? Or what about using it as the fulcrum for a home defense catapult? Just spitballin’ here.
And while you can certainly buy ready-made sawhorses at your local big box hardware store, you miss out on the fun and satisfaction of building a piece of equipment that will serve you for years to come.
Heavy Duty Sawhorses Easy to Make from 2x4s
Materials
Here are the materials Tim recommends for his sawhorses. It’s enough to make a pair.
- Six 32½-inch 2x4s (for the I-beams)
- Eight 30-inch 2x4s (for the legs)
- Twelve 3-inch wood screws
- Thirty-two 16D galvanized nails
How to Build a Sawhorse
Building a sawhorse is super easy. It makes for a great starter project for the man who has never really worked with tools, but wants to become handier around the home.
Note: This is one way to build a sawhorse. I know there are plenty of other ways to do it. This plan is great for everyday use in a typical suburban garage. If you plan on using your sawhorses for heavy work, you might try another design.
Measure and Cut Your Timber
The 2x4s I bought came in lengths of sixteen feet, so I had to cut them down to the needed sizes. Here I am measuring and cutting 32½-inch pieces for the I-beams and 30-inch pieces for the legs. Remember to measure twice and cut once!
Here I am using a portable compound miter saw to cut the timber. You can use a hand-held circular saw or even an old-school handsaw.
Take three of your 32½-inch 2x4s and screw them together in an “I” formation.
I found it helpful to drill a pilot hole before driving the screws in.
Drive three wood screws right down the middle on top and bottom of the I-beam. Place two of the screws near each end and drive the other one right in the middle of the I-beam.
Nail the Legs to I-Beam
Butt the end of the 30″ 2x4s into the top of the I-beam like so. Hammer two nails at the top of the leg so that they go into the middle I-beam piece.
Nail two more nails into your leg so that they go through the bottom I-beam piece.
If you’ve done things correctly, you should form a box pattern with your nails. Notice my hammer dings in the wood. I need to practice.
Completed Sawhorse
My finished sawhorse. Rinse, wash, and repeat to make your second sawhorse for a pair. To store these bad boys, just stack ’em.
