Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw. Trim cutting saw

04.05.2023 Fordrejurus diamond, hi-tech, inch, trim

Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw

The Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw is the perfect saw for trimming-out cabochon preforms in rocks, minerals and glass, or to cleanly trim smaller faceting material. This saw is packed with a variety of cutting-edge features that will make your cutting experience easier and more efficient than ever before. One of the standout features of this saw is the inclusion of not one, but two diamond saw blades. a 4″ x.010″ x.013″ blade and a 5″ x.010″ x.013″ blade. The two different size blades gives you 2 different blade height options to accommodate the height of your cutting material. These saw blades are designed for cutting and trimming rock material such as turquoise, aqua, garnet, corundum, emerald and ruby. The 1/4 HP variable speed direct drive motor is capable of producing speeds ranging from 800 rpm to 3,400 rpm, allowing for flexibility and control over your cutting speed. The sealed ball bearings help to ensure a smooth and stable cutting experience, while the unbreakable, cross-linked polyethylene housing and rust-proof design make this saw durable and long-lasting. Cleaning up after cutting is a breeze, as the saw is designed to be easy to clean with a removable saw table. A spray shield is included to keeps water off you and on your work piece. The built-in coolant reservoir helps to keep the blades cool and lubricated during use. For added convenience, the saw comes with an Allen wrench for easy blade changes, as well as a complete written and visual instruction manual to help you get started with your cutting projects. Plus, with a 1-year manufacturer’s warranty, you can rest assured that you’re getting a high-quality product. Best of all, the Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw is made right here in the USA, ensuring that you’re getting a product that’s built to last. Upgrade your lapidary skills with this top-of-the-line trim saw!

Features

4″ x.010″ x.013″diamond saw blade included
5″ x.010″ x.013″ diamond saw blade included
5/8″ arbor
1/4 HP variable speed direct drive motor
Speeds range between 800 rpm. 3,400 rpm
Sealed ball bearings
Unbreakable,cross-linked polyethylene housing
Rust proof
Easy to clean
Coolant reservoir
Removable saw table
Spray shield included
Allen wrench included
Complete written and visual instruction manual
1-year manufacturer’s warranty
Made in the USA!
Machine dimensions: 13″ L X 9-1/2″ W X 7″ H
Machine weight: 10 lb
4″ saw blade height: 1″
5″ saw blade height: 1-1/2″
4″ saw blade depth: 3-1/4″
5″ saw blade depth: 4-1/2″
Saw table measures 7-1/2″ L X 4-3/4″ W

Shipping

Free Shipping:

Free shipping offers (where indicated) apply to orders with a shipping address in the lower 48 states only. If you want a product that is over 70 lb shipped to Alaska or Hawaii, you will not be able to check out. Please contact us for a shipping quote and we will manually complete your order. We do not ship internationally.

Order Confirmation:

As soon as you place your order, you will receive an order confirmation email. This means that we have received your order in our system and pre-authorized your credit card for the purchase. When we receive your order, we reach out to our suppliers to confirm that it is available for shipment within the specified time frame.

If your item is on back-order or unavailable, we will reach out to you via email or phone and void the pre-authorization if you so desire. If your item(s) are available for shipment, we will process the charges and submit the order for shipment.

Order Shipment:

If your order is in stock and we process the charges to your credit card, it will ship within the following time frame according to brand, from the date of your order:

Lot-O-Tumbler: 2-5 business daysGearloose, Lightning Lap: 1-2 business daysCrystalite: 2-5 business daysGemini: 5-15 business daysCovington Engineering: 1-5 business daysBarranca Diamond: 4-6 weeks

We will send you tracking information within 24 hours of your order leaving the warehouse to the e-mail address you provided when checking out. If you do not receive tracking information from us within six business days of your order, feel free to follow up with us at sales@lapidarymart.com.

Damages:

Please inspect the packaging of your item(s) when they arrive, if you notice any damage you should make note of it when signing for delivery. If your item(s) do arrive damaged, please send photos to returns@lapidarymart.com and we will process an insurance claim on your behalf.

Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw

The Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw is the perfect saw for trimming-out cabochon preforms in rocks, minerals and glass, or to cleanly trim smaller faceting material. This saw is packed with a variety of cutting-edge features that will make your cutting experience easier and more efficient than ever before.

One of the standout features of this saw is the inclusion of not one, but two diamond saw blades. a 4″ x.010″ x.013″ blade and a 5″ x.010″ x.013″ blade. The two different size blades gives you 2 different blade height options to accommodate the height of your cutting material. These saw blades are designed for cutting and trimming rock material such as turquoise, aqua, garnet, corundum, emerald and ruby.

The 1/4 HP variable speed direct drive motor is capable of producing speeds ranging from 800 rpm to 3,400 rpm, allowing for flexibility and control over your cutting speed. The sealed ball bearings help to ensure a smooth and stable cutting experience, while the unbreakable, cross-linked polyethylene housing and rust-proof design make this saw durable and long-lasting.

Cleaning up after cutting is a breeze, as the saw is designed to be easy to clean with a removable saw table. A spray shield is included to keeps water off you and on your work piece. The built-in coolant reservoir helps to keep the blades cool and lubricated during use.

For added convenience, the saw comes with an Allen wrench for easy blade changes, as well as a complete written and visual instruction manual to help you get started with your cutting projects. Plus, with a 1-year manufacturer’s warranty, you can rest assured that you’re getting a high-quality product.

Best of all, the Hi-Tech Diamond 4 and 5 Inch Trim Saw is made right here in the USA, ensuring that you’re getting a product that’s built to last. Upgrade your lapidary skills with this top-of-the-line trim saw!

Features

4″ x.010″ x.013″diamond saw blade included
5″ x.010″ x.013″ diamond saw blade included
5/8″ arbor
1/4 HP variable speed direct drive motor
Speeds range between 800 rpm. 3,400 rpm
Sealed ball bearings
Unbreakable,cross-linked polyethylene housing
Rust proof
Easy to clean
Coolant reservoir
Removable saw table
Spray shield included
Allen wrench included
Complete written and visual instruction manual
1-year manufacturer’s warranty
Made in the USA!
Machine dimensions: 13″ L X 9-1/2″ W X 7″ H
Machine weight: 10 lb
4″ saw blade height: 1″
5″ saw blade height: 1-1/2″
4″ saw blade depth: 3-1/4″
5″ saw blade depth: 4-1/2″
Saw table measures 7-1/2″ L X 4-3/4″ W

Shipping

Free Shipping:

Order Confirmation:

Order Shipment:

If your order is in stock and we process the charges to your credit card, it will ship within the following time frame according to brand, from the date of your order:

Lot-O-Tumbler: 2-5 business daysGearloose, Lightning Lap: 1-2 business daysCrystalite: 2-5 business daysGemini: 5-15 business daysCovington Engineering: 1-5 business daysBarranca Diamond: 4-6 weeks

Damages:

Here is an easier, more precise method you can use to cut crown molding while it’s flat on a miter saw.

Cutting molding on a miter saw can be tricky business. Most techniques for cutting crown molding involve awkwardly holding the crown against the fence of the saw while making the cut. With this method the crown can be laid flat on the saw, which makes the whole process a little easier and a lot more precise.

Note: This method is for cutting crown molding to fit a 90-degree corner.

What is Crown Molding?

Crown molding, unlike other types of moldings that can be any trim in a building, runs along the area where the wall and ceiling meet, hiding the seam. It can be made out of wood, medium density fiberboard (MDF), metal and many other types of materials. There are also many different pattern options, ranging from bold to more conservative.

than just way to hide the seam, crown molding can be a dramatic architectural flare in a room. It can make a room feel taller by drawing a viewer’s eye upwards toward the ceiling. There are so many different styles and design ideas for crown molding, and you can really get creative with it in your home. It’s been a popular addition in kitchen remodels, especially adding it to kitchen cabinets, but crown molding goes well in just about any room of the house.

Before committing to a style, it might be helpful to take some pictures of the different options you’re considering and printing them out in scale. With that, you can hold the photos up to the ceiling to get a sense of how it will look once it has been installed.

Working with crown molding can feel challenging for the beginning DIYer. That’s because it can be difficult to nail and cutting and measuring it isn’t an easy process.

Another helpful tip for working with crown molding is to experiment. Once you’ve decided on a style, buy a few extra pieces of base trim and crown molding, when you’re at the lumber yard or home center. Nail or glue your samples together and hold them against the ceiling in order to decide which combination to go with. You can also practice making precise cuts with the extra pieces.

Steps for Cutting Crown Molding

Step One: Set the miter angle to 31.6 degrees. On most saws, “31.6” is specially marked.

Step Two: Set the bevel to 33.9 degrees. Once again, this adjustment will have a special marking on most saws.

Step Three: Lay the crown flat and cut. Now there’s no need to precariously hold crown at an angle right next to an incredibly dangerous saw blade!

Step Four: Reverse the settings and repeat.

Lapidary Trim Saws vs. Slab Saws: What’s the Difference?

If you’re new to lapidary, you might be wondering what the difference is between a trim saw and a slab saw. Both types of saws are used to cut rocks, minerals, and other materials, but they have some key differences that make them better suited for different tasks. In this article, we’ll explore the differences between trim saws and slab saws, including their features, uses, and advantages.

Trim Saws

Trim saws are small, lightweight saws that are used to cut thin slices or “trims” off of rocks, minerals, and other materials. They typically have a circular blade that is 6 inches or less in diameter and are powered by a motor. Trim saws are designed for precision cutting and are often used to cut thin slices of material for cabochons, beads, or other jewelry.

Trim saws have a number of features that make them well-suited for precision cutting. For example, many trim saws have adjustable blade guides that allow you to set the depth of the cut, which can be useful when cutting thin slices or shapes. They also usually have a clear plastic hood or cover that helps to keep debris and dust contained while you’re cutting. Trim saws are also often times cooled with just water.

Trim saws are a good choice for beginners or those who are working with small, thin slices of material. They are relatively easy to use and don’t require a lot of setup or maintenance. However, they are not well-suited for cutting thicker or larger pieces of material, as the small blade is typically unable to handle the load of larger rock specimens.

Slab Saws

Slab saws are larger, more powerful saws that are used to cut thicker, larger pieces of material. They typically have a large blade that is 12 inches or more in diameter and are powered by a motor. Slab saws are used to cut rough slabs of material, which can then be trimmed, polished, or shaped with other lapidary tools.

Slab saws have a number of features that make them well-suited for cutting thicker, larger pieces of material. For example, many slab saws have adjustable blade guides that allow you to set the depth of the cut, which can be useful when cutting slabs of different thicknesses. They also usually have a large table or work surface that provides plenty of room to maneuver the material while you’re cutting. Slab saws are also often times cooled with the use of oil.

Slab saws are a good choice for those who are working with thicker or larger pieces of material. They’re more powerful than trim saws and can handle the load of cutting through thicker slabs. However, they are generally not as precise as trim saws and may produce rougher or less accurate cuts. Slab saws also typically require more setup and maintenance than trim saws.

Differences in Blade Size

One of the main differences between trim saws and slab saws is the size of the blade they use. Trim saws typically have small, thin blades. These blades are typically 4″ to 6″ in diameter and run between.004″ and.012″ thick. Trim saws are designed for precision cutting and are often used to cut thin slices of material for cabochons, beads, or other jewelry.

On the other hand, slab saw blades are thicker because they are designed to do much heavier cutting. These blades run from 6″ to 36″ in diameter and have a thickness of.025″ to.200″. Slab saws are used to cut rough slabs of material, which can then be trimmed, polished, or shaped with other lapidary tools.

Differences in Lubrication Requirements

One important aspect to consider when using lapidary saws is the lubrication requirements. Trim saws will last and work well without any lubrication other than water. And this is exactly what many lapidaries use. However, water alone is not 100% recommended. At the minimum, you should consider adding a rust preventative that usually has lubricating properties as well.

On the other hand, slab saws have much more stringent requirements when it comes to lubrication. There are saw oils on the market that are excellent but expensive. If you’re unsure what to use, it’s best to get an oil that is specifically designed for lapidary use. This will ensure that your slab saw is properly lubricated and running smoothly.

Final Thoughts

Trim saws and slab saws are both useful tools in the lapidary workshop, but they are designed for different tasks. Trim saws are best suited for precision cutting of thin slices of material, while slab saws are better for cutting thicker, larger pieces of material. Depending on your needs and the type of material you’re working with, you may need to use both types of saws in your lapidary work.

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The 5 Best Types of Saws for DIYers

What are the best types of saws for DIY projects? Well the most important saw I have in the shop or on a restoration job site is the one I need to do the task in front of me at that moment. Whether you’re undercutting a door jamb to add a new floorboard or tile, or cutting out studs and plates from a horribly remuddled partition wall addition, the phrase “right tool for the job” exists because it’s true. The reason the saw at hand is the most important isn’t because it’s fancy or expensive or refined; it’s because restoration success is about doing all the steps well with the right tool. If I can’t do a task—large or small, difficult or easy—progress comes to a halt.

I mainly rely on five saws to see me through: a reciprocating saw, circular saw, miter saw, table saw, and a Japanese handsaw. While having these saws is great, it’s only half the battle. Using them efficiently and safely is the other half. Everything from the right blade to the right accessory combines to make good work great and keep your restoration train running down the rails.

Reciprocating Saw

A reciprocating saw–also known as a “recip saw” or “hognose saw”–was invented by the Milwaukee Electric Tool Corporation in the 1950s and branded Sawzall, is used mainly for demolition. While this word is generally anathema in a restoration context, I’ve seen many wonderful old homes chopped up into rental units where what once were doors have been studded up and drywalled over. Then there are the original basements retrofitted with awful 1970s paneling and landscapes littered with rusting store-bought metal sheds.

Chances are very good that as an old-house restorer, you’ll need to take some things apart before you can have a shot at putting them back together, and the tool for this go-hard-or-go-home work is a reciprocating saw.

Choosing the Right Blade for a Reciprocating Saw

For cutting through most construction-related material, I use a 10″ “demolition” blade on my reciprocating saw. Designed to take a beating, these blades’ small, hook-shaped teeth are configured for cutting the hodgepodge of nail-embedded wood, plaster, drywall, and just about anything else you’ll find.

Outdoors, if I’m cutting apart a metal shed or some fence posts, I’ll use a metal-cutting blade. Since unsupported metal will usually flop around, I minimize that vibration by pressing the shoe of the saw firmly against the work.

If I have to cut tree branches (or roots, for that matter, which are common obstacles in post holes) I swap out the blade for one with more aggressive teeth, such as the Skil “ugly blade.”

Reciprocating Saws Make Demolition Easier

One thing I really rely on this saw for is what I call Smart demolition—in other words, I can use it to remove an item carefully. Take, for example, a door opening that’s been covered over with studs and drywall. I can use the reciprocating saw to cut the drywall away in manageable pieces. Then, instead of pounding on the studs nailed into the jambs and floor to pry the nails or dislodge the wood (which doesn’t work, by the way), I run the saw between the member that’s staying and the one that’s going, and cut the nails. This frees the work piece without bashing it, and minimizes both work and collateral damage.

Circular Saw

Circular saws are the big daddy tool for just about any project, and they come in two flavors: sidewinder and worm drive:

Sidewinders are lighter and smaller, and generally have the blade on the right side and the motor projecting out the left.

Worm drives are front-heavy, in-line saws named for the worm gear inside that turns the blade. I’m a worm-drive guy myself—its configuration jibes with the way I work, letting me make my cuts faster—but both configurations get the job done.

Restoration projects often require rough carpentry—a floor has been damaged by a longtime leak; a porch is falling apart; the bathroom floor framing has been eviscerated by previous plumbers. A circular saw is the go-to tool for cross-cutting and ripping framing members and sheet stock like plywood.

Using a Circular Saw to Remove Flooring

A circular saw is also the tool you need for removing a damaged floorboard. You simply make two passes down the length of the damaged board—enough to get a bar in there—then carefully pry the two pieces free. Removing the bottom of the groove on your replacement piece lets you easily lay it into the void.

Setting the circular saw to the right depth and keeping a keen eye on the blade will enable you to make the precise cut required for removing damaged floorboard because you want to cut up to—but not into—the adjoining floorboard. This is one of the many reasons I like worm drives: Despite weighing nearly twice that of a sidewinder, the blade is on the left, so as a right-hander, I can see what I’m doing without craning my neck over the saw.

Using a Circular Saw to Trim Door Bottoms Stiles

A circular saw, a straight-edge called a shoot-board, and a fresh blade are my first picks for trimming door bottoms and stiles. I can set the saw and straight-edge to make precise cuts in century-old doors to square them up for new openings. The worm drive’s in-line body easily passes by the clamps that hold the straight-edge down—not always possible with a sidewinder’s outboard motor.

Miter Saw

If there’s a core to my tool setup, it’s the miter saw. While it can be used for cross-cutting framing, angling pergola rafters, or slamming through umpteen fire-blocks, it is primarily a finish tool I rely on for trim—base, casing, chair rail, crown—and my standard is a 12″ dual bevel sliding compound miter saw.

Set Up a Proper Work Station For Your Miter Saw

But a miter saw isn’t magic. In order for it to really shine, it needs to be set up properly—not on the ground with a couple of bricks on either side—to hold up a 12′ length of crown molding.

While I’ve built a custom work table for my miter saw, you can buy stands or build out less involved setups with just a few 2x4s, a sheet of ¾” plywood, and some 2×4 blocks.

The Importance of Infeed Outfeed Support

Whatever route you choose, the thing that makes a miter saw effective is what’s called infeed and outfeed support—surfaces on the left and right of the saw that support the work, enabling you to cut it accurately.

Having this allows you to see what you’re doing—notably which side of your pencil line the blade is passing through. When I position the work in my miter saw, I look right down the blade plate and line up my pencil mark with the edge of a blade tooth, making sure to keep the thickness of the blade on the waste side of the piece. It might sound simple, but it takes practice.

Choosing the Right Blade for a Miter Saw

Use premium blades for premium work, like Vermont-American’s King Carbide or Ridgid’s titanium-coated sawblades. They’re expensive but worth it, because they cut accurately and cleanly, and you can sharpen them multiple times.

Portable Table Saw

Another “frame-to-finish” tool, a table saw is designed to cut planks down their length, a process called ripping.

While some portable job-site table saws are capable of opening wide enough to cut a 24″-wide piece of sheet stock like MDF or plywood, they’re really not designed for it, and it’s dangerous (not to mention almost universally inaccurate) to try. This is the domain of the circular saw (and shoot-board, if you need accuracy), or full-fledged contractor or cabinet saw with infeed and outfeed support.

Uses For Table Saws

Table saws are the main tool for tuning a board to the right width and sometimes thickness. They’re Hyper-handy on any project using tongue-and-groove material like flooring or pine paneling. Not only can you use a table saw to rip boards to make graceful transitions around corners, but you can remove the bottom or back part of a groove to lay it over the tongue of the previous board as you near the end of a run. You also can use them to cut the parts for a cabinet face frame, or to trim cedar starter-strips or final pieces on siding jobs.

Much like the miter saw, a table saw benefits from outfeed support. I’ve had terrible luck with the various roller stands you can buy in stores. However, a site-made table that’s a little lower than the saw’s deck works great. One of my favorites is a Rockwell Jawhorse with a 2×4 T-clamped in the jaws at the right height.

Choosing the Right Blade for a Table Saw

When cutting material that will show—say, a threshold for a flooring project, parts for a bookcase, or a column wrap—the better the blade, the fewer saw marks that will appear in the cut. Always look for saw marks on an appearance-face cut and sand them out, because they become glaring once painted or stained.

The Freud Fusion blade is one of the best all-around table saw blades I’ve worked with. It leaves a very clean cut and ably handles most materials.

One final note: If you’re super-serious about woodworking or doing a large-scale molding or cabinet package where you’re milling the parts, a job-site-type table saw isn’t enough tool. It will get you by, but the heavier iron of a contractor or cabinet saw will do it better. They’re bigger, more expensive, and not intended to be moved often, but they deliver the power and stability that type of work demands.

Japanese Handsaw

I’ve already said that the most important type of saw I have is the one I’m using at the moment. However, a saw that continually gets me out of scrapes is my Japanese handsaw.

I don’t use it frequently, and you could make the case that the raft of new oscillating tools could take its place, but I love it for undercutting door jambs to accept new flooring. I can run the tool flat and make the cut easily—about a hundred times better than any jamb saw I’ve ever seen.

The tool cuts on the pull stroke (most Japanese saws do this), and because in most cases the teeth go all the way to the end of the blade (check before buying), I can essentially cut out of a corner.

The Right Saw for the Job

There are more types of saws, of course, and all have critical-need uses: A jab saw for working plasterboard, plaster, or drywall; a coping saw—one of my absolute favorites—for inside corners on various moldings (molding is almost always more accurately installed by coping rather than mitering); even a chainsaw for anything from lot-clearing to firewood. But no matter how big or small your stock of saws, the most important tool in your arsenal is the one you need to get the job done.

Sources:

https://www.lapidarymart.com/products/high-tech-diamond-4-and-5-inch-trim-saw
https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/the-secret-numbers-for-cutting-crown-flat/
https://rockseeker.com/lapidary-trim-saws-vs-slab-saws/
https://www.oldhouseonline.com/repairs-and-how-to/the-5-best-saws-for-diyers/amp/