How Do I Make My Grass a Putting Green? Step By Step Guide
With the price of an 18-hole game of golf costing around 81 in the United States, it can be expensive to go out to a course to get practice and improve your game. Instead, you can bring the golf course to you by transforming your yard into an at-home putting green. This may seem extremely difficult to prepare and maintain, but you can easily get an at-home putting green in your own backyard.
The easiest way to turn a lawn into a putting green is to have an artificial turf green installed. However, through digging, installing irrigation, sand, and then growing proper grass, a USGA regulation putting green can be achieved at home. There are several simple, cheap options available as well.
So, whether you are just trying to figure out if you want to commit to a professional level putting green, or already know and are ready to put in the work, I will help explain how to get a putting green in your backyard. I will also talk about another option available that requires less care than its grass counterparts, which is to have an artificial green installed.
Simple Real Grass Putting Green
To have an official USGA, the height of the grass can be no more than.0125 inches, which is shorter than two quarters stacked on top of each other.
This is impossible to do with your standard lawnmower, so, if you want to have a cheap, at-home option before committing to trying to build a USGA-like green, start with cutting your green every other day at the lowest height offered by your mower.
This will let you know if you are committed enough to put in the daily work required to maintain a higher level of putting green. (source)
If you feel comfortable after a few weeks with the standard lawnmower, you can consider getting a rotary or a cylinder lawnmower, as they both cut much lower than your standard lawnmowers.
The cylinder lawnmower can get the grass to the height that the USGA requires for an official putting green, so if you are wanting to eventually create your own official putting green, you should invest in a special lawnmower.
The only other step that you will likely have to take in creating a simple real grass putting green is to make sure that your green is level. To do this, you will want to get some playing sand, which can be found very easily at any home improvement store.
- Simply spread the sand out evenly across the area you are using for your green and rake it flat.
- It will help to make your green more level.
- Repeat this process until you find your green to be level.
You may ruin your yard trying to keep the grass cut so short and many residential putting greens use artificial turf. I list steps below to make a real USGA grass putting green and talk about artificial turf after that, but honestly I just recommend getting a small artificial set up in your yard.
You can find good quality Artificial Grass Here on Amazon to install yourself, or Hire Local Pros from HomeAdvisor to do it for you.
How To Make a USGA Real Grass Putting Green
If you want a legitimate USGA putting green at home, you will have to put in a little bit more work than simply having short grass and a flat surface. Let’s get into it!
Choose the Area for the Green
Before you do anything else, select an area to use as your putting green. Avoid hills or steep slopes, as it will make the installation process and putting very difficult. The flatter the better.
Once you have your area picked out, you will want to dig out the area. It is recommended that you dig about 10 to 12 inches deep. After digging, add in any contours that you will want your green to have. Unless you are building the nicest mini-golf course, the USGA recommends a slope of no more than 2.5%.
In order to prevent a soggy green, you will want to have good drainage installed. Four-inch perforated drainage pipe is the most common drainage used and typically it is done in a herringbone pattern across your green. When installing, dig trenches to place the pipes in, then cover with pea gravel.
After this, you will want to cover the whole area in sand. Your best option will be golf course sand, as it drains better than any other sand and most home improvement stores should have it.
Seed or sod it
Placing sod or growing seed is your next option. Using sod will be easier, however, it is considered that growing the seed is the better option in the long run. There are a wide variety of different USGA regulation grass types that are used in different regions, so ask a lawn care expert about which type of grass would be best for where you are located.
Make sure that you fertilize and water the grass regularly while it is growing, and once it has started growing, make sure you keep it at the regulation 0.125 inches by cutting it at least every other day.
Then, to finally finish up, get a hole puncher (link to Amazon) and a cup. After about 2 months you should be able to start practicing, but it will most likely take 4 to 5 weeks to fully finish and have a professional look. (source)
Check out the video below to watch how to build a USGA green:
Dedicated to everything backyard related, with information about backyard games, projects, activities, and maintenance. We do a lot in our backyards, and this site is where we share everything we learn along the way
Backyard Sidekick is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Backyard Sidekick also participates in affiliate programs with Clickbank, CJ, ShareASale, and other sites. We are compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies.
How Short Are Golf Greens Cut? Ultimate Guide To Cutting Greens
If you’re a golfer, you’ve probably wondered how the greens are kept so short. Golf courses use a variety of methods to cut the grass on their greens, but one of the most popular is using a mower called a “greens mower.”
This type of mower is designed specifically for cutting golf greens, and it can cut them to any desired height. In this blog post, we will discuss how golf courses keep their greens so short and what types of equipment they use!
How Short Are Golf Greens Cut?
There is a specific height that golf green should be cut to in order to provide the best playing experience for all players. Most golf greens are cut to a height of 0.125 inches.
This may seem short, but it is necessary in order to keep the ball rolling smoothly and prevent it from bouncing too high.
The greens mowers that are used to cut golf greens are very different from the mowers that are used to cut grass on your lawn at home. Greens mowers are much larger and have multiple blades that rotate in a cylindrical fashion. These blades are designed to cut the grass evenly and quickly, without leaving any clumps behind.
At most golf courses greens are cut at 3/16 inch or less. Above that height, the speed of the green slows dramatically and the enjoyment of golf, and particularly of putting, is reduced. A cutting height somewhere between 3/16 inch and 1/8 inch is acceptable to the vast majority of golfers.
The recent introduction of dwarf species of bent and Bermuda grasses for putting greens has mandated the need to cut the grass at or below 1/8 inch. Who would ever have thought it possible that greens could remain alive and healthy at less than a 1/10 of an inch or 2 millimeters?
How To Measure The Height Of Cut?
A cutting unit that traverses across a grass covered area is supported by a front and a rear roller. These two rollers touch the ground, and the cutting cylinder turns between the rollers at some distance above the ground.
This distance, known as the height of cut, is expressed in parts of inches or millimeters, depending on the country in which the course is located. For repair or adjustment of a cutting unit, it is tilted backward or upside down on a workbench.
A straightedge is placed across the front and rear rollers; the distance between the straightedge and the top or front edge of the bed knife represents the height of cut. Measuring the height of cut is made infinitely easier by using a solid steel bar and a micrometer attachment.
Because the height of cut is measured on a workbench, the resulting measurement is known as the bench setting, which often differs from the actual, on the green, cutting height.
Why is this so? Superintendents discovered long ago that a cutting height of 3/16 inch produced different results on different makes of mowers. Obviously, mowers made by different manufacturers are constructed differently and perform in their own peculiar ways, which are rarely similar. In use today is a nifty gadget, which was introduced to the market some years ago, that makes it possible to measure the actual height of cut on the green.
It consists of a triangular prism that is placed on the putting surface with the edge touching the soil. The height of the grass mat is projected against incremental graduations, thus revealing the actual in-the-field height of cut. During the same process, one can observe the quality of cut.
Keeping The Mower Sharp
Just as it is impossible to obtain a clean shave with a dull razor, it’s not possible to mow a green successfully with a dull mower, so the golf course mowers must be kept sharp at all times. To check whether a mower will cut grass, simply insert a strip of paper between the bed knife and the mowing cylinder, and watch the blades shear it off.
If the paper is creased and not cleanly cut, more than likely the same will happen to the grass when the mower traverses a green. If in doubt, get down on your hands and knees and examine the grass with a magnifying lens.
Getting down on your hands and knees is a tried-and-true way of examining the turf for most situations. A grass blade that is poorly cut will look bruised, with the veins in the leaf blade sticking out like damaged protrusions or tiny hairs.
The collective effect of the bruised hairs is the appearance of a light sheen over the entire surface of the grass. This phenomenon is not limited to greens alone, but may also occur on tees, fairways, and roughs. It is a common problem that can easily be corrected by adjusting the cutting edge of the mower or by sharpening the mower.
It is well to remember that dull mowers usually are a major factor in reducing the speed of greens. This is particularly important on greens in southern locales that are overseeded for winter play.
The first method, spin grinding, sharpens all the blades equally in a perfect cylinder with the entire width of the blade touching the cylinder and, subsequently, the bed knife.
The second method, relief grinding, results when single blades of the mower are ground on an angle and only the front edge of a blade touches the bed knife.
Both methods have their adherents, and both camps tend to believe in the superiority of their particular way.
Equally important to the cutting cylinder is the bed knife, which depending on one’s school of thought, can be sharpened with or without a relief angle.
One thing everyone agrees on is that the front edge or the face of the bed knife must also be kept sharp. When the front tip of the bed knife becomes rounded, it will once again result in bruised grass blades.
The grinding of bed knives and cutting cylinders is usually done during the off-season, and is repeated often during the regular season. Once the grass is cut on a regular basis, the cutting cylinders need periodic attention and are occasionally back-lapped with a grinding compound to maintain their edge.
The grinding compound is applied lightly with a brush as the reel turns backward. This process tones the cutting edges of both the reel blades and the bed knife and results in a superior quality of cut. Those who prefer spin grinding over relief grinding often do away with back-lapping, claiming that it is messy, bad for the mower bearings, and unnecessary.
How To Cut The Greens? 10 Steps To A Perfet Putting Surface
Step #1. It is customary for the golf course mechanic to check the mower, for its ability to perform as expected. The first function of the greens mower operator is to double-check to make sure that everything is in order.
While a gas-fueled mower is still in the maintenance area, the engine oil should be checked and the gas tank topped off. If using a battery-powered mower, it is important to check that the battery is fully charged.
Step #2. Before commencing cutting, inspect the green by walking and scanning the putting surface, looking for stones and debris that need to be removed. In the process, fix ball marks and check the height of hole plugs that have been replaced by the cup changer, and make sure that the new plugs are level with the putting surface.
Remove the flagstick and put it aside. Some fast operators believe that they can remove the stick as they pass by, but this is seldom a good idea and quite often leads to accidents.
Step #3. The direction of cut varies and is generally determined by the superintendent. It is important that it be different from that of the previous day. The direction of cut is changed every day to help reduce the buildup of grain.
The grain on a green is the direction in which the grass leans, much like the nap of a living-room rug. Change the cut every day, and, ideally, grain will be eliminated or at least reduced.
How to build a golf green (USGA) START to FINISH
Step #4. Straight cutting lines are essential. For the first pass, pick a tree on the horizon or some other feature in the landscape, and keep looking at it as you mow a strip across the green. A straight line will result. For subsequent passes, it is no longer necessary to look at the horizon. Instead, FOCUS on the straight line that has been completed at the far end of the green.
Step #5. The overlap: Novice cutters should overlap several inches. Experienced cutters may reduce the overlap to a narrow strip. The markings on the baskets can be helpful in determining the degree of overlap.
Missing a small strip of grass because of insufficient overlap is a cardinal sin against good greenkeeping. This results in golf balls jumping on the green and losing their direction, which becomes a golfer’s nightmare.
Step #6. The turn: It is important to make long, wide turns. Think of the shape of a light bulb or a teardrop while making the turn. Short, quick turns tear the turf on the apron.
If a sand bunker or other obstruction is in the way of completing the turn, maneuver away from the hazard and turn in the adjacent rough. Operators should be cautious when making turns on wet aprons. Mowers may slip and slide on the damp turf.
Step #7. Check the basket for clippings while the green is being cut. Clippings tell a story: Uneven distribution within the basket means the cutting unit is set improperly. Unbalanced quantities between the baskets on a rider may indicate differing heights of cut.
Likewise, when using a walking mower, the quantity and distribution of the clippings in the basket needs to be checked. In either case, if there is a problem, contact the mechanic or the superintendent.
If you think the green has been cut perfectly and the mowers are truly sharp, come back in the evening to make an assessment. With the setting sun over your shoulder, every imperfection on the green is clearly visible, and suddenly what was the perfectly cut green does not look as perfect anymore.
Step #8. Always empty the baskets before they become too full. Baskets laden with wet grass affect the quality of cut. If policy dictates that clippings be spread, learn the sweeping but coordinated motion of the upper body, arms, and hips that result in the perfect dispersal of the grass clippings.
The clippings should be spread in the rough behind the green, never on the fairway in front of the green, or in wildlife areas.
At many golf courses the clippings are collected and composted instead of being spread in the rough. Composting is a method used more frequently now by many superintendents because it is the environmentally proper way to dispose of clippings.
Step #9. At the completion of the back-and-forth cutting pattern, the outer edge of the green must now be cut. This process is known as the cleanup pass, and it requires great diligence on the part of the operator.
A cut into the adjacent apron will result in an ugly brown streak. Alternatively, to leave a few inches uncut can result in experiencing the superintendent’s wrath. Instead, slow the mower down to a crawl and concentrate on the edge with all your faculties.
Superintendents from time to time will mark the perimeter of the green with small dots of paint. This process will help to keep the shape of the green intact.
The cleanup pass may be omitted from time to time to prevent the buildup of wear patterns along the edge of the green.
Step #10. Although many operators now use earplugs to protect their ears from excessive noise, it is still important to listen to the sound of the mower, especially the purr of the reels touching the bed knives, which will give a hint if the reels are maladjusted.
When the green has been completely cut, replace the flagstick. Last but not least, take a whipping pole and brush off the clippings that may have fallen off the mower during cutting near the edge of the green and on the apron. Then, stand back for a few seconds and admire your work in the hope that your supervisor will, from time to time, praise you for your outstanding green cutting ability
How Often Are Golf Greens Cut?
Golf greens are cut on a daily basis, sometimes even multiple times per day. This is necessary in order to keep the grass at the correct height and to ensure that the greens are free of any debris. If there is a lot of foot traffic on the greens, they may be cut more often to prevent the grass from getting too worn down.
Why Are Golf Greens Cut So Short?
The main reason that golf greens are cut so short is to provide a smooth, even surface for the ball to roll on. If the greens were cut any higher, the ball would bounce and roll erratically, making it difficult to play the game.
Another reason that greens are cut short is to prevent the growth of weeds and other unwanted vegetation. By cutting the greens short, golf courses can maintain a pristine lawn that is free of any unwanted plants.
Living the Golfer’s Dream: Your Own Backyard Putting Green
For many avid golfers, building and maintaining a backyard putting green is a dream come true. Successful, satisfying home greens take a lot of planning and care, but that doesn’t stop golfers who live to play the game.
With the right start and follow through, you can enjoy a backyard putting green of your very own:
Selecting a Site for Success
Proper location is one of the most important elements of a home putting green. Sun, lay of the land, and air flow work together for optimal putting green health and performance. Choose a site with at least eight hours of direct sun each day and excellent air circulation, away from buildings and landscape plantings that provide too much shade or block air.
Contours of the surrounding landscape are as important as the final contours of the green itself. Avoid locations that lie low, as a well-draining, fast-drying green is essential to stability and performance.
Laying a Firm Foundation
Green construction at commercial golf courses is an extensive process. While home putting greens demand firm, stable foundations, they rarely require the same degree of work.
Commercial greens take a beating from almost continuous course traffic. United States Golf Association (USGA) guidelines for commercial greens 1 recommend heavy-duty subsurface and root zone corrections that replace native soil with carefully composed, pre-mixed layers of gravel and other materials to ensure greens don’t fail under the pressure. With the light traffic load of home putting greens, most typical backyard soils — with the exception of clay — provide excellent results, as is. Sandy loam soil is an ideal foundation for most backyard greens. 2
Excellent drainage — below and above ground — is critical to the performance and longevity of a backyard green. The University of Arkansas recommends native soil putting greens utilize subsurface drainage tiles according to USGA guidelines, but spaced less than 10 feet apart. 2 Surface drainage is equally important. Construct your green’s foundation so the final contour is free of low areas, and surface water drains quickly in at least two directions. Attention to detail during construction encourages a dense, disease- and pest-resistant green.
Choosing Your Green’s Grass
As with lawn grass, putting green grass should suit your region. Creeping bentgrass, a cool-season grass that thrives in northern climates, is widely considered the best for premium putting greens. The finely textured blades allow balls to roll easily, with less resistance, for smooth, fast play. The University of Arkansas recommends Pennington PennCross creeping bentgrass, long favored by golf turf professionals, for backyard putting greens. 2 Late summer and early fall are prime times for creeping bentgrass green establishment. 3
In hot southern climates, hybrid Bermudagrasses provide good performance for home greens. The stiff, upright leaves allow good ball movement; the ball moves across the cut tips, unimpeded by soft, bending blades. However, Bermudagrass greens usually play slower than bentgrass greens. 4 Bermudagrass establishes best during late spring and early summer. Your local county extension office or turf professional can provide information on seeding rates for your area. Local sod producers can also provide guidance on locally-adapted Bermudagrass varieties.
Feeding and Watering Putting Greens
Fertilize your green based on its grass type. The University of Arkansas recommends feeding creeping bentgrass greens four times per year: twice in spring and twice in fall. Feed greens on or around May 1 and June 1, at a rate of 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per feeding. In fall, fertilize on or around September 15 and November 15, at a rate of 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per feeding. 2
To calculate actual nitrogen in any fertilizer product, multiply the bag’s weight by its nitrogen percentage — the first of the three numbers on the fertilizer label. For example, to calculate actual nitrogen in a 12-pound bag of Pennington UltraGreen Lawn Fertilizer 34-0-4, multiple 12 by.34. The bag contains 4.08 pounds of actual nitrogen.
Feed Bermudagrass greens weekly from April through September at the following rates:
- April: 1/4 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet.
- May: 3/8 to 1/2 pound of nitrogen per square feet.
- June through August: 1/4 pound nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per week.
- September: 1/8 pound nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. 2
Encourage deep, healthy grass roots through deep, infrequent irrigation, as needed. Follow good watering practices, and water in the early morning hours to reduce water loss to evaporation and reduce the risk of disease. Let your green tip you off to when it needs water: When footprints fail to spring back up or grass takes on a blue-purple cast, it’s time.
Mowing and Topdressing for Peak Performance
Commercial courses mow greens daily (several times per day during tournaments) to keep them at ultra-low heights. 5 Mow your home green four to six times per week to a height of 5/32 to 1/4 inch for optimal conditions. 2 Use a reel mower designed specifically for greens; normal lawn mowers can’t mow low enough. Greens mowers are available in manual and motorized models.
Topdress your home green with screened native soil or sand to improve green speed and discourage thatch. Golf courses often topdress at three-week intervals, but you only have to do so at least twice per year — once in early May and again in late September. For native soil putting greens, top with a 1/8-inch layer of the same soil used in your green’s foundation. 6 Go over the surface with a standard push broom, and work the topdressing down into the turf to keep your green firm, fast and smooth.
Building and maintaining a home putting green takes time, resources and commitment, but it pays off in enjoyment — and an improved short game. Pennington Seed is committed to growing the best grass seed possible and helping you fulfill your backyard dreams.
Pennington is a registered trademark of Pennington Seed, Inc.
UltraGreen is a registered trademark of Central Garden Pet Company.
Patton, Aaron, “Building a Backyard Putting Green,” University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture.
Vavrek, Bob, “Bentgrass Putting Green Establishment,” USGA Greens Section Record,” October 1999.
Steeves, Susan A., “Putting Green Speed is All in Grass Management,” Purdue University, June 2007
Mower for putting green
Greens mowers are designed to mow especially low to provide a smooth putting surface and meet desired green speeds. Over the years, the HOC on putting greens has been lowered considerably. To meet these precision requirements, the new reel with 11 Blade and 14 Blades are the most appropriate. For Greens in undulated terrain, Greens master Flex mowers are preferred as these machines cut closely to follow severe undulations at extremely low heights.
GREENS MASTER 1021
Toro’s new line of fixed-head walk-behind greensmowers have been completely re-engineered to bring each operator and greensmower into perfect harmony with one another. Multiple innovations – starting with an industry-first telescoping handle – come together to deliver unparalleled cut quality and consistent playability on each and every green. The modular design also makes the Greensmaster 1021 mowers easier than ever to maintain, saving significant time and money and lowering the total cost of ownership.
3.5 HP (at 3600 RPM) Honda engine with ample power for cutting and accessorizing.
Engineered to accommodate operators of different heights, for mowing in a natural upright position. Leads to less fatigue and a superior cut. Adjustable to 5 distinct handle positions.
Two rubber grommets eliminate minor oscillations in Height-of-Cut caused by walking strides. Delivers a consistent cutting height on each and every green for optimal playability.
A single bail combines safety and ease-of-operation. Convenient operation allows the mower to slow down or come to a full stop during turn-arounds without disengaging traction to line up for next mowing pass. Also ideal when using turn-around mats to preserve collar health.
Convenient, easy to reach location to engage reel from the operator position.
All operator controls are within easy reach to perfect the mowing process, improve cut consistency, and enhance control – in normal and tight turn-around situations.
Clip frequency can easily be changed in the field to mow the perimeter, collars etc. The quick-change feature also can be locked out for added control.
Numerous quick-change options and accessories are available to help customize the cut and aftercut appearance.
Provides long life and best-in-class transmission durability. Lubricated for life, no grease points.
Change cutting units in just a few minutes! Easily choose between an 8, 11 or 14 blade EdgeSeries reel cutting unit configuration. Simply unbolt and replace an entire cutting unit for service or a simple exchange. to avoid costly down time.
Make repairs simple and quick. The engine. transmission, drum or cutting unit sub-assemblies can be easily removed for timely and cost effective replacement or repair.
Installing a Backyard Luxury Putting Green Step by Step!
The innovative swing axle design can quickly convert the machine from a Greens to a Tee mower by keeping the bedknife cutting edge in an optimal position for the respective cutting height and the handle location in the correct ergonomic position.
Disengage the traction with a simple lever twist. Getting around the shop has never been easier!
The entire Greensmaster 1000 Series fleet can be back-lapped simultaneously without additional motors or bench tools. (Available on the GR 1021 and 1026 only).
Honda gas engine 3.5 HP (2.6 kw) @ 3600 RPM
8-blade, 11-blade, and 14-blade cutting units available
Dual position traction drum with positions for contour following or forward weight bias at higher heights of cut.
Designed in accordance to applicable ANSI and CE specifications.
GREENS MASTER 1000
The legendary Toro Greensmaster Fixed-Head series 1000 has a cutting width range of 21”. All models in the line boast convenient operator controls, precision cut, and an ergonomic loop handle design to reduce operator fatigue and increase productivity. These units offer a number of maintenance features to ensure a long and productive life, including quick access to all service points for routine maintenance, and a forward weight bias which balances the machine and sets an industry standard for straight line tracking. This also ensures a pristine cut regardless of operator influence.
Select from a broad product offering to customize for your desired quality of cut. The smooth drums are gentle on greens. Choose the correct clip with the optional Clip Kit.
Dual Precision Adjustment (DPA) cutting units – featuring Toro’s EdgeSeries reels combine to deliver a consistent, high quality cut and superior after cut appearance, while reducing maintenance with improved reel edge retention.
Ergonomic handles make mowing comfortable for a wide range of operators. The 3-position pull pin height adjustment for the handle allows operator to quickly adjust handle for their comfort without a technician’s assistance.
Designed for dependable and easy access to all service points.
Provides straight tracking of the mower and reduces the operator’s influence on the quality of cut. The forward weight bias enhances the mower penetration into the turf.
Engineered for mowing performance, the grass baskets distribute clippings evenly for optimal mowing on each pass, in wet or dry conditions.
Certified to meet ANSI specifications B71.4-2004 and European Community (CE) specifications with required kits installed.
Fourteen blade reels are designed for extremely fine greens mowing at the lowest heights of cut.
Spiral rotating brush used to condition grass before cutting.
Tungsten, carbide tipped tooth profile blades that vertically cut into turf to reduce thatch.
Conditions grass prior to cut, primarily used on warm season grasses to stand and straighten grass blades before the cut.
Tires used for transporting mower to greens.
Toro TransPro trailers safely and easily transport walk greens mowers to and from the greens. The unique design protects your investments and keeps adjustments intact. The TransPro 80 accommodates a single mower and the TransPro 100 safely transports two mowers, saving you time and increasing productivity.
GREENS MASTER Flex
The Greensmaster Flex 1820 / 2120 Series mowers deliver pristine results time and time again. Greensmaster Flex mowers cut closely to follow severe undulations at extremely low heights, and provide an excellent solution for greens that require precision mowing. The unique and patented Flex suspension system utilizes an integrated linkage system to allow cutting units to pivot around the center of the front roller, which prevents side-to-side scrubbing of the putting surface. All functions are easily controlled from the operator station, including both traction and reel engagement.
The reliable high-tech Subaru heavy-duty industrial engine is precision manufactured for high torque output at low rpm’s and for easy starting. The new engine has the power necessary to accomodate groomers, light kits, and all of your most challenging greens cutting applications.
Superior contour following capability utilizes an integrated “Flex” linkage system to allow cutting units to pivot around the center of the front roller to master undulations and prevent side-to-side scrubbing of the putting surface.
Each new Flex walker includes six. easy to configure. clip rate options to accommodate specific cutting heights and playability requirements for every event or desired playing condition. Three color-coded pulleys can quickly be rearranged, with a single wrench, to match your reels and clip rates to achieve the desired result.
Dual Precision Adjustment (DPA) cutting units – featuring Toro’s EdgeSeries reels combine to deliver a consistent, high quality cut and superior after cut appearance, while reducing maintenance with improved reel edge retention.
The new telescoping handle can be adjusted up or down for enhanced operator comfort and to accommodate tall or short operators.
No grease points means less time spent on routine maintenance tasks and no more worry about grease “blurbs” on your turf.
The loop-style handle and operator controls are ergonomically designed for ease of operation. The Flex control panel is designed to be accessible, intuitively simple to understand, with control functions that are easy to master.