How to Change an Angle Grinder Wheel
We show you several ways of how to change an angle grinder wheel. You can do this in any number of ways—even if you’ve lost your spanner wrench. Don’t worry, all hope is not lost!
Note: Want to see a video of how to change an angle grinder wheel using these same methods? Check out our YouTube tutorial!
How to Change an Angle Grinder Wheel with a Spanner Wrench
What you need:
- Your angle grinder
- The spanner wrench that came with your angle grinder (different models use different sizes, so another may or may not work)
- A grinder wheel you want to install
Here’s how to change a grinder wheel with a spanner wrench:
- Locate the wheel lock button (usually on the top). Press it down and rotate the wheel until you feel it lock into position.
- With the button held down, place the two knobs of your spanner wrench into two opposite holes on the flange holding the wheel in place (the flange is the round nut-looking piece that holds the wheel in place.
- While pressing down the wheel lock button, turn the spanner wrench counter-clockwise until you feel the flange loosen.
- Hand thread the flange off.
- Slip your new angle grinder wheel on, and reverse the process.
How to Replace an Angle Grinder Wheel Without a Spanner Wrench
Sometimes you misplace your spanner wrench – it happens a lot unless the wrench stores on the tool the way Skil’s PWRCore 20 angle grinder does.
What you need:
Here’s how to change an angle grinder wheel without a spanner wrench:
- Hold down the wheel lock button and turn the wheel until it locks in place.
- With gloves on, grab the wheel and turn it counterclockwise until you feel the flange release.
- Hand thread the flange off.
- Swap the wheel and reverse the process.
This method works, but there are a couple of considerations. First, I’m not as confident in tightening the wheel by hand, so I always use a spanner wrench to make sure it’s tight enough.
Creating Bushings for Your Grinding Wheels
Second, thin abrasive cutting wheels are more prone to breaking or weakening with this method, so we don’t recommend you try it with those. You could inadvertently create a situation where your cutting wheel fails with dangerous consequences.
Many Pros do another take on this by running the wheel against concrete to loosen it rather than by hand. Either way works and carries the same warnings. I personally find loosening by hand easier.
The Easiest Way to Replace a Grinder Wheel
My favorite way to replace an angle grinder wheel involves switching out the stock flange with a Hilti Kwik-Lock flange. We originally used on Hilti’s 36V grinder and find it an excellent upgrade for any model that has the same 5/8-inch arbor.
The genius of it is a design that allows you to hand thread and tighten/loosen with just your bare hand. It’s perfectly secure and super-simple.
In the event your grinder wheel helps tighten it down too much, two holes let you get a spanner wrench in to work it back off.
Here’s what you need:
- Your angle grinder
- A Hilti Kwik Lock flange
- A grinder wheel you want to install
Here’s the easiest way to change an angle grinder wheel:
- Hold the wheel lock button down and turn the wheel until it locks.
- Turn the Kwik Lock flange counterclockwise by hand until it loosens. You’ll feel some spring tension movement first before it breaks free.
- Hand thread the flange off.
- Swap the wheel and reverse the process.
The downside is that these flanges cost a little more than 50 each. That might be too steep for a DIYer. Having a couple of these on hand for Pros that use grinders often can make life easier, though.
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Need advice on bench grinder wheels
I respect the fact that selecting the correct grinding wheel is a lot more complex than grabbing one off the shelf at harbor freight. I need something for roughing steel and stainless, something for shaping HSS tool blanks, sharpening HSS tools and drills, and maybe something for touching up brazed carbide. And hopefully wheels that don’t break down too fast.
I need some new wheels and here is what I have, although I don’t know EXACTLY what I have.
Wheel #1.8″ 1725 rpm with a 1″ white wheel with some gray/silver flecks in it. This is my favorite. Fine, dense grained. cuts very nice and doesn’t build up too much heat. I use it for shaping the HHS tools and lots of general grinding. I like this wheel but don’t know what it is.
Wheel #2 6″ 3450 rpm with 1″ with dark gray, coarse, open grained wheel. Cuts fast and rough but builds up heat fast. It is fair, I guess, for roughing. Don’t know what it is but prbly don’t want another one.
Wheel #3 6″ 3450 rpm with 3/4″ reddish brown fine, open grained. Cuts fast and fairly smooth, not too much heat. I used it a lot until i got the 8″ white wheel which I like better on the 1725 rpm grinder.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Lloyd
If you need to sharpen carbide in light amounts, you can get a silicon carbide wheel instead of diamond. I use one for my gravers.
Your wheels are likely aluminum oxide, but hard to say without reading a label.
Those gray silver flecks on wheel #1 might be stainless or aluminum! Anything that will load on the wheel is a bad idea. They’ll expand faster than the wheel when it gets hot and it will grenade. I saw someone do it once and it was an ear opener.
As soon as they start loading up, you can clean them up with a wheel dresser.
White wheels are ‘soft’ (cool cutting, wears down quickly) aluminium oxide wheels for tool steel.or HSS.
Grey wheels are ‘hard’ (slower wear, more heat) aluminium oxide for deburring and general grinding.
Silicon carbide wheels are green, and their primary function is to spread abrasive grit all through your workshop. Usually you’ll find that more material is removed from the wheel than the carbide you’re grinding- this is intentional, carbide is almost as hard as the abrasive in the wheel so they have to wear down super fast to avoid the wheel becoming ‘glazed’ or blunt.
Thanks for the info guys. It is kinda what I was figuring, but it is good to get some validation.
Zeb, I have never seen a wheel blow up, but I was guilty of filling one up with aluminum years ago. I have a 6″ x 1″ flap wheel that I keep on a grinder for aluminum and brass. The gray flecks in the white wheel appear to be distributed all the way through the wheel.
Nerd, That color coding you talk about seems to agree with the performance I am seeing. A totally worn out green wheel came on a used grinder I bought. I tried to use it but it was more like dumping sand on the floor.
I will dismount the wheels i have and see if the labels are still readable. Shouldn’t have been so lazy, ha ha. Lloyd
As far as HSS grinding goes, I’d get a 46 grit white wheel for roughing and a 60 or 80 grit white wheel for finishing.
For shaping mild steel or stainless I think the ideal is probably a pink coloured wheel (usually a bit harder than a white wheel). You want an ‘open’ structure if you’re grinding softer steels because it helps prevent loading up of the wheel.
There are some other special varieties. Ceramic wheels (usually blue) are supposed to be the bees knees for many jobs. I’ve never used one, but from what I’ve read they work by having frangible grains, when the grain gets blunt it tends to break in a way that forms a new sharp edge rather than being ripped out of the surface of the wheel. So they cut like a white wheel but wear down slower. I’m sure you pay for the extra performance.
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Some of my colleagues have switched to CBN for really all their grinding. Initially expensive but a very long service life. Fits on your regular bench top grinder. I adhere myself to the rule of thumb soft stones (white Alu oxide or green Silicium carbide) for hard materials and hard stones (grey/blue Alu oxide) for softer materials. For very sharp polish grinding and for putting a really sharp cutting edge on inserts I use an Extra Fine Diamond wheel on my Tormek slow (100 revs) wet grinder. Diamond is initially expensive but has an extremely long service life. Beware that diamond is harder then CBN of course, but it cannot withstand high temperatures in combination with carbon steel, so you don’t want to use it on your regular high revs bench grinder.
The key parameter that I look for is the hardness of the wheel. Counter-intuitively, the harder the steel, the softer the wheel needed to grind it. For HSS or tool steel, I look for an H or I. (The typical grinding wheel that comes on the typical bench grinder is something like an X in hardness.)
I would caution against relying solely on color. While there is a tendency among some manufacturers to make certain types of stones white or pink or so on, they don’t have to. the color is added artificially. I have bought stones of the same grade, grit, abrasive and so on, and have gotten grey, blue, and pink stones. All have worked equally well.
The possible exception is silicone carbide wheels. I’ve only ever seen them in green. But then again, I have very limited experience with them, so perhaps they too come in different colors.
Thanks everyone! I now remember reading much of this information years ago and realizing there was a lot more to it than I had realized. I picked up this 16″ x 5/8″ O.D. grinding wheel years ago at a liquidation store. For 10 it seemed too good to pass up, but here it sits, collecting dust. It still rings clear as a bell and has no chips on the edges. It’s probably a dumb idea, but I could install this on the 8″ 1725 rpm grinder for finish work. Trying to decipher the codes, looks like an 80 grit, J hardness, F density, 2266 max rpm. (Definitely Maybe) It would be easy to try, and I am always game for weird experiments. If it worked, it would need to be dressed very seldom, and I really dislike that messy job. Should I try it? Thoughts? Lloyd
No harm in trying. I would definitively use a diamond dressing rod to sharpen it up on a regular basis. I’m not so sure about the finishing qualities of an 80 grit wheel; my Extra Fine Diamond wheel is 1200 grit.
The Angle Grinder Wheels You Need for Fabrication
Getting started in fabrication? One of your most useful tools will be your handy angle grinder. You can clean rust and paint, whisk off welding slag, remove metal, and cut stuff. So what wheels should you have in your arsenal and what do they do? We picked out the four best angle grinder wheels for fabrication and take a look at what they do to a piece of steel.
If you’re doing fabrication, you need four types of wheels for your angle grinder. They are the standard grinding wheel, the flap disc, the cutoff wheel, and the wire wheel. If you scroll to the bottom of the article, you can see what each of these wheels does to a piece of rusty metal.
Angle grinder wheels are consumables: they last for a certain amount of time and then they need to be replaced. We’ve experimented with super cheap versions of angle grinder wheels and find that they don’t last as long and don’t hold together as well as versions that cost a little bit more. Here are a few that we’ve tried and liked:
We also like products from Norton, Gemini, and Milwaukee.
The Grinding Wheel
Grinding wheel with 7/8″ arbor hole You can grind with this grinding wheel anywhere on the face or the edge of the grinding wheel.
The Angle Grinder Wheel for Fast Material Removal
The standard grinding wheel is all about fast metal removal. Use the grinding wheel if you want to grind out welds, clean up cuts, and prep metal for welding (since you need bare shiny metal to weld). Of the four wheels, this removes material the fastest. It also produces hot, large sparks. Be sure that the sparks are not hitting anything you care about. Sparks will melt and embed into glass, burn holes in some clothing, and can be a little painful on your skin.
Grinding wheels come in different grits. Just like sandpaper, lower numbers (like 40 grit) are coarse and remove material faster. We will caution that the lower the grit, the larger, hotter, and more painful the sparks are. While this is fine if you’re working at a workbench, grinding under a 4×4 in an awkward position can become very uncomfortable with low grit wheels. Even with typical safety gear, it’s harder to protect your body, your ears, and your eyes from bouncing sparks when you’re jammed under your vehicle, so we suggest a higher grit wheel for that type of work. Stray sparks can easily ricochet and bounce behind a face shield/goggle combination. A higher grit wheel will take a little longer, but it’s safer and more comfortable.
1/4″ Thick Grinding Wheel for Fast Material Removal Standard grinding wheels are ideal for quick metal removal using your angle grinder. 1/4″ thick is pretty standard for most grinding wheels.
Angle grinder standard grinding wheel Pay attention to the wheel diameter when buying grinding wheels. Make sure the wheels you get fit inside your grinder’s guard.
We buy angle grinder grinding wheels 5-10 at a time and that quantity can do most of the typical fabrication projects on a single truck.
Low grit grinding wheels can leave “scratches” in your metal. Really coarse grinding wheels can also leave slight burrs on the edge of your workpiece. We usually clean up these scratches by using a flap disc (below) on the affected areas until the metal is smooth and shiny.
The Best Angle Grinder Wheel for Sharpening Mower Blades and Other Tools
This is also the angle grinder wheel you should use for sharpening mower blades, shovels, and other “blunt” garden tools. It’s easy to remove your mower blade, put it in a bench vise, and sharpen it with your angle grinder. We often finish a blade with a flap disc to make sure it’s smooth.
The Flap Disc is for Finishing
Flap wheel for finer metal sanding Flap discs are ideal when you want to sand metal with your angle grinder. They can lightly chamfer edges, remove burrs, and take the sharp edges off corners.
The Best Sanding Wheels for Angle Grinders
The grinding wheels above tend to gouge the material you’re working on, but a flap disc smooths it out. While the grinding wheel is a hard composite material, the flap disc is basically just overlapping rectangles of sand paper. If you were to run your grinding wheel over an edge on a piece of steel, then you ran your fingernail over that spot, it would catch, since the grinding wheel will push out material at it’s leading edge. This is a burr. Burrs look bad, and can be sharp. they’ll easily cut unprotected hands. The flap disc works great to clean up burrs and shine up gouged metal.
Flap Discs Debur Metal and Take Off Rough edges Use flap discs for finer metal sanding.
Like the standard grinding wheel, these come in different grits. Like sandpaper, the higher grits are for fine work and the coarse grits are for rougher work. We use flap discs all the time for finishing heavy grinding. Flap discs make a huge difference in what your finished piece looks like by removing burrs and scratches, allowing you to put slight chamfers on edges, and also making it easy to take the hard edge off corners.
If the metal part that you’re working on is going to be handled by people we recommend using a flap disc on the exposed edges and corners at the very least to prevent unprotected hands from cutting snagged and cut on burrs and sharp edges.
The Cutoff Wheel is for Metal Cutting
The thin profile of a cutoff wheel The thinness of a cutoff wheel is what makes it cut so easily through metal. This one is.045″ thick.
The Best Angle Grinder Wheel for Cutting Metal
Cutoff wheel with 7/8″ arbor Cutoff wheels with a 7/8″ arbor fit a special shoulder on angle grinders that have a 5/8″-11 threaded arbor.
The cutoff wheel is used for cutting metal. You can use it for cutting out welds, cutting small parts out of sheet or plate metal, or shortening bolts. You only use the edge of the wheel, not the back or front face. In fact, using either face will weaken a cuttoff wheel since they are so thin and the fibers that hold the wheel together are so exposed.
Cutting wheels are considerably thinner than standard grinding wheels. Typically, you’ll use something that’s either 1/8″ or 0.045″ thick. This is 1/2 to 1/4 as thick as a 1/4″ grinding wheel. Because of their thinness and the fact that they only cut at the edge, they can cut metal extremely quickly.
The best angle grinder cutting wheels for metal are also the thinnest. However, the thinner the wheel, the more dangerous they are. Thin cutting wheels flex more easily and thus shatter more easily. If you’re working at a work bench in a comfortable position with a well-positioned workpiece, a thin cutoff wheel is fine. If you plan to work under a vehicle in an awkward position, we recommend using a 1/8″ cutoff wheel that is a little more rigid and will resist shattering if you lose your balance or position.
Also the Most Dangerous Angle Grinder Wheel.
Cutoff wheels are great for fabrication When you need to cut metal, a cutoff wheel on your angle grinder gets the job done quickly.
While the cutoff wheel is very, very handy, it is an extremely dangerous wheel because it’s thin. If you twitch, lose your balance, or otherwise accidentally twist the grinder while using this wheel, it will shatter. The projectiles that fly off could break your nose, damage your hands, hurt bystanders, etc. Keep your face away from this and out of the plane of the spinning wheel.
We have shattered perhaps one or two standard 1/4″ grinding wheels in several years of fab work, but we’ve shattered many cutoff wheels. Lots of fabricators have injuries from not wearing proper safety gear or using cutoff wheels unsafely. One of us even has a nice scar and some grinding material permanently embedded under a fingernail after a shattered cutoff wheel impacted his hand and shattered his fingernail. It’s tough to get everything set up perfectly for using a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder, so do the best you can and wear lots of safety gear.
Safety glasses, face mask, grinder guard, heavy gloves, and no bystanders are essential when you spin up this wheel. We recommend not using a cutoff wheel unless both ends of your material are properly supported. Otherwise, the hanging piece may to pinch the spinning wheel and shatter it. A chop saw should instead be used for some types of work, like shortening lengths of tubing or angle iron.
The Wire Wheel is for Cleaning
Wire back wheel with 5/8″ arbor We like threaded arbors for wire wheels since they make it easy to take the wheel on and off.
The Best Angle Grinder Wheel for Cleaning Paint and Rust
Wire wheels are excellent for removing surface rust and paint. The most abrasive wire wheels have thick, twisted bristles. Straight and thin bristles are much less abrasive, but aren’t aggressive enough if you need to do fast paint and rust removal. In fact, all of the wire wheels we use for our angle grinders are twisted. We only use straight bristle wire wheels on drill attachments and die grinders, and they are all small diameter.
Wire Wheel Front These are thick, twisted bristles, so this will be an aggressive wheel. This is the best type of wire wheel for heavy paint and rust removal.
Like the other wheels, stuff can fly off this wheel at high speeds. the wires occasionally break loose hard enough to stick in your skin. This isn’t so bad, but that should encourage you to wear eye protection. Don’t buy cheap wire wheels for your angle grinder. We’ve tried wire wheels from Harbor Freight, and besides not lasting very long, they will spray you with wire filaments for as long as the wire wheel lasts. Besides being intolerably annoying, this is also dangerous for you and anyone around you since the filaments can so easily pierce skin (and certainly eyeballs).
Real World Tests: What These Grinding Wheels Do
Angle Grinder Wire Wheel Sample
The wire wheel easily took off the rust scale. If you were going to stick weld an emergency repair with 6010/6011 rod, this would probably be clean enough for the weld process. However, you’d want bare, shiny, clean metal for MIG or TIG. A wire wheel with steel bristles won’t gouge steel (although it might “soften” the appearance), but it can gouge softer metals like aluminum or brass.
Wire wheel effect on rusty metal We prefer to have shiny metal for welding, but for a lot of projects a wire wheel will take off enough rust to later do a reasonable paint job.
Angle Grinder Flap Disc Sample
The flap disc is basically worthless for rust removal unless it’s just flash rusting. Scale comes off slowly and we never get to clean bare metal, so this is a pretty pointless use.
Flap wheel effect on rusty metal A flap wheel isn’t sufficient for removing heavy rust. It’s more suited for finer metal sanding and finishing.
Angle Grinder Grinding Wheel Sample
We get right down to bare, shiny metal quickly. This wheel left some pretty heavy gouges in the metal. It won’t look good, but for a functional piece this doesn’t matter. Note that we’ve ground out the pitting caused by the corrosion process. This means that we’ve also reduced the overall thickness of the workpiece in those spots. You generally should not be grinding out 1/8” deep pits on 1/4” material, since you’re reducing the strength of that area to 1/8”. The regular grinding wheel is also great for grinding off mill scale, which is the dull gray “coating” that comes on a lot of commonly available metal.
Grinding wheel effect on rusty metal The grinding wheel is very effective at cleaning rust down to bare metal, but it tends to leave a rough surface and can result in a lot of material removal if you aren’t careful.
Grinding Wheel then Flap Disc Sample
First we used a regular grinding wheel, then ran over it with a flap disc. The workpiece still has a little gouging, but most of the shallow ones were “buffed” out. The finish is much smoother to the touch than the grinding wheel alone. Unlike the grinding-wheel-only sample, this would look pretty good with a coat of paint on it. A production piece with a totally smooth finish (think of a welded plate-style bumper with smooth corners) would likely use a less aggressive grinding wheel (shallower gouging) followed up by a flap wheel.
Using a grinding wheel then sanding flap disc on metal Using the flap disc after the coarser grinding wheel makes the steel much smoother.
Angle Grinder Cutoff Wheel Sample
This is just a straight cut with a cutoff wheel. When through-cutting, you must beware of how the cut piece moves so that it does not pinch the cutoff wheel or kick into the wheel when it falls. For pieces of this size and larger, it is safer to use a chopsaw, bandsaw, or hacksaw (it ain’t so bad!). This wheel is 0.045” thick, so it makes a slightly faster, thinner cut than thicker 1/8” (0.125”) wheels. It’ll also shatter more easily.
Angle Grinder Cutoff Wheel Effect on Metal Cutoff wheels should only be used for cutting. Don’t use the front or back face of the wheel for cutting, or you run the risk of weakening the wheel and causing it to shatter.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Mike came out of the womb with a Birfield in one hand and a stick of 6010 in the other, ready to weld any piece of trail-busted steel back together. He has wheeled, broken, and modified a variety of rigs, from Toyotas to Jeeps to Fords to Chevies. He likes doing long distance overland travel and would happily spend every night in the bed of a pickup under the stars.
What Is a Concrete Grinding Wheel?
Concrete is one of the most common tools used in construction- in fact, over 70% of people around the world live in a structure that contains concrete. This makes sense when you consider that it’s one of the strongest and most versatile building materials on the market.
In addition to being strong enough to withstand multiple weather conditions and lasting for many decades, concrete is easy for contractors like you to manipulate. Here, we’re going to talk about how you can use and select a concrete grinding wheel that will ensure the highest possible productivity levels for your next project.
What Is a Concrete Grinding Wheel?
A concrete grinding wheel is an aspect of a grinding machine that fits within it for abrasive cutting operations. They are made from a coarse-particle aggregate such as ceramic, silicon carbide, aluminum oxide, or cubic boron nitride. However, the hardest and most common aggregate for these tools is diamond since it is capable of sanding down floors of any hardness.
Each grinding wheel has five key characteristics:
- Material hardness (depending on how abrasive the concrete being ground is)
- Grain size (The physical size of your abrasive grains ranging from 10 [coarsest] to 600 [finest])
- Wheel grade (How soft or hard the bond is that holds the material in place)
- Grain spacing (The density of the spacing between grains of abrasive material)
- Bond type (The method by which the wheel holds abrasives [e.g. rubber, metal, silicate, etc])
The option that you select should entirely depend on the applications that you use the wheel for.
How Are They Used?
Grinding wheels are inserted into the concrete grinder prior to use. Whether you’re using a handheld grinder or one that you push while walking behind, you will need to install the wheel into the body of the machine. You then can turn it on and guide the machine over the surface that you’re grinding down so that the abrasive particles level the surface out and eliminate blemishes.
The end result is a smooth concrete surface that has none of the naturally sharp or grainy parts that occur after it has dried. This is critical for a variety of applications including garage floors, factory and warehouse interiors, walls of concrete buildings, park benches, windowsills, and more.
How to Select the Correct Diamond Fitting for Your Concrete Grinder
Diamond fittings are by far the best abrasive fittings for concrete grinders. They’re able to grind down any material no matter how hard it is so you don’t need to worry about it breaking halfway through a contracting job. They also are likely to last longer because they are a 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale (and thus don’t become ineffective easily).
However, you can’t just use any diamond fitting for your concrete grinder. There are a few factors that you need to consider.
The first is the size of the wheel you need. You must select something that fits seamlessly within the tool that you plan to use. Make sure to measure the diameter of your machine appropriately and select something of the necessary size– your user manual will likely have information on this as well.
You also must consider whether you want a single, double, or multi-row diamond grinding wheel. Double rim or multi rim grinders will perform twice as intensely and will therefore smooth uneven surfaces down perfectly. However, they’re more expensive and may not be available in smaller sizes (such as those you would use for handheld grinders).
What Type of Grinding Wheel Do You Need?
Now that you know the basics of grinding wheels, it’s time to look into the best concrete grinding wheel options. Read on to learn some of the most common types of wheels. We’ll also cover the applications that each of them works best for so that you can make the most informed choice possible.
Straight Grinding Wheels
A straight grinding wheel is the most basic grinding tool on the market. They’re used not only to polish small areas of concrete but also to sharpen household tools. These tools include chisels and blades, so if you’re a smaller contractor looking for something that works for multiple applications, this may be your best bet. However, it isn’t great for larger applications.
Grinding Cup Wheels
A concrete grinding cup wheel is the most common tool for polishing concrete (and stone). Depending on the grit used, it can also take on jobs like removing adhesive from concrete surfaces.
If you’re looking for a versatile tool that gets the job done, you can purchase one of these tools anywhere up to 36 inches in diameter. Inserting these in a walk-behind or driveable grinder is completely possible because they are manufactured in such large sizes, but smaller ones are perfect for handheld grinders.
Grinding Dish Wheels
Dish wheels look similar to cup wheels, but they have a thinner surface edge. They also are more shallow. Because of this, they can fit into thinner areas and tight crevices that a cup wheel would not be able to squeeze into.
If you plan to use a cup grinding wheel, it’s a good idea to get a dish wheel that you can change it out with as well. This will let you get into every nook and cranny of a space to ensure even and smooth flooring. This makes them perfect for residential jobs because it lets the people you’re working for have an awesome concrete floor for any room.
Now that you know how to choose a concrete grinding wheel that works for your needs, it’s time to begin your journey towards being a more efficient flooring contractor.
Send us a demo request to try any of our popular concrete grinding and polishing tools. All you need to do is select the series and application that you want to try out and our experts will get back to you with more information about your requested product. We look forward to helping you with your next project, so don’t hesitate to reach out.