How To Remove Spot Welds With An Air File Sander. Spot weld grinder
How To Remove Spot Welds With An Air File Sander
If you do a lot of metalworking that involves spot welding, you’re going to come across welds that need to be removed before the project can be completed. Eliminating them can be difficult, especially if you want to preserve as much of the original metal as possible.
Air file sanders are the recommended tool for removing spot welds, especially if they are located in areas that larger and thicker belt sanders can’t reach. In this blog, the team at Fintech Abrasives provides practical instructions for using an air file sander to clear away spot welds that impact the quality of your workpiece.
Air File Sanders- an Overview
Air file sanders have been used in commercial shops and industrial applications for years. Powered by compressed air, they are lighter, quieter, and generally regarded as safer than their electric counterparts, especially when working in an environment where vapors and flammable fluids are present.
Woodworking and metalworking production lines use air file sanders for their Rapid and efficient cutting action, which supports overall productivity, and their ability to smoothly prepare rougher surfaces for a high-gloss finish. Both advantages make them appropriate for the difficult task of removing spot welds.
Removing Spot Welds- a Step by Step Guide
Before starting work, you’ll need to assemble the following supplies:
- Air file sander fitted with the proper belts. for best results, use ceramic, zirconia, or closed-coat aluminum oxide
- Air supply machine or compressor
- Safety gear- goggles, face mask, gloves, and earplugs
Step One. Set Up the Air File Sander
Connect the air hose from the compressor or air supply machine to the air file sander. If the piece you’ll be working on is a larger one, make sure that the hose is long enough to allow you to move freely around it. You’ll also want to confirm that the air filter, which serves as the tool’s dust collection unit, is in place as well.
Step Two. Turn on the Air File Sander
Switch on the air compressor before you activate the sander by pressing the operating lever. Most people grip the handle in one hand and switch on the sander with their thumb, allowing them to maintain more control over the tool.
Step Three. Remove the Spot Welds
Carefully press the file sander to the weld, paying close attention to the amount of pressure used. Although lightweight, they deliver significantly more power than other sanders, so more care needs to be exercised during use.
You’ll want to start out with a coarser grit (P36. P80) to eliminate the thickest part of the weld and switch to a medium grit (P100. P220) as more material is removed. At Fintech, we sell air file belts in a variety of abrasive materials and grit sizes, and can recommend a combination that gets the best results for you.
Move the abrasive over and around the metal directly above the spot weld, taking care to avoid burning through the panel. Air file sanders can perform a 360-degree rotation, so any portion of the belt can be used to achieve the desired result. Avoid accidentally touching the running belt when you’re maneuvering it to access a hard-to-reach area.
Once you’ve removed enough of the first layer of metal above the spot weld, break the rest of the metal free using a punch or chisel and hammer. If you are unsure of how much metal you have actually removed, simply hit the center of the weld, and its outline will appear.
Do You Have Questions About Abrasives for Air File Sanders?
Air file sanders are versatile and high-performance tools that have multiple uses, including spot weld removal. At Fintech Abrasives. we manufacture premium quality abrasive belts specifically for air file sanders, so that you get best results for your particular project. For more information about our products, speak to a technician today by filling out our contact form or calling (888) 223-8768.
How To Remove Spot Welds With An Air File Sander
If you do a lot of metalworking that involves spot welding, you’re going to come across welds that need to be removed before the project can be completed. Eliminating them can be difficult, especially if you want to preserve as much of the original metal as possible.
Air file sanders are the recommended tool for removing spot welds, especially if they are located in areas that larger and thicker belt sanders can’t reach. In this blog, the team at Fintech Abrasives provides practical instructions for using an air file sander to clear away spot welds that impact the quality of your workpiece.
Air File Sanders- an Overview
Air file sanders have been used in commercial shops and industrial applications for years. Powered by compressed air, they are lighter, quieter, and generally regarded as safer than their electric counterparts, especially when working in an environment where vapors and flammable fluids are present.
Woodworking and metalworking production lines use air file sanders for their Rapid and efficient cutting action, which supports overall productivity, and their ability to smoothly prepare rougher surfaces for a high-gloss finish. Both advantages make them appropriate for the difficult task of removing spot welds.
Removing Spot Welds– a Step by Step Guide
Before starting work, you’ll need to assemble the following supplies:
- Air file sander fitted with the proper belts. for best results, use ceramic, zirconia, or closed-coat aluminum oxide
- Air supply machine or compressor
- Safety gear- goggles, face mask, gloves, and earplugs
Step One. Set Up the Air File Sander
Connect the air hose from the compressor or air supply machine to the air file sander. If the piece you’ll be working on is a larger one, make sure that the hose is long enough to allow you to move freely around it. You’ll also want to confirm that the air filter, which serves as the tool’s dust collection unit, is in place as well.
Step Two. Turn on the Air File Sander
Switch on the air compressor before you activate the sander by pressing the operating lever. Most people grip the handle in one hand and switch on the sander with their thumb, allowing them to maintain more control over the tool.
Step Three. Remove the Spot Welds
Carefully press the file sander to the weld, paying close attention to the amount of pressure used. Although lightweight, they deliver significantly more power than other sanders, so more care needs to be exercised during use.
You’ll want to start out with a coarser grit (P36. P80) to eliminate the thickest part of the weld and switch to a medium grit (P100. P220) as more material is removed. At Fintech, we sell air file belts in a variety of abrasive materials and grit sizes, and can recommend a combination that gets the best results for you.
Move the abrasive over and around the metal directly above the spot weld, taking care to avoid burning through the panel. Air file sanders can perform a 360-degree rotation, so any portion of the belt can be used to achieve the desired result. Avoid accidentally touching the running belt when you’re maneuvering it to access a hard-to-reach area.
Once you’ve removed enough of the first layer of metal above the spot weld, break the rest of the metal free using a punch or chisel and hammer. If you are unsure of how much metal you have actually removed, simply hit the center of the weld, and its outline will appear.
Do You Have Questions About Abrasives for Air File Sanders?
Air file sanders are versatile and high-performance tools that have multiple uses, including spot weld removal. At Fintech Abrasives. we manufacture premium quality abrasive belts specifically for air file sanders, so that you get best results for your particular project. For more information about our products, speak to a technician today by filling out our contact form or calling (888) 223-8768.
New Milwaukee M12 FUEL Cordless Bandfiles
Milwaukee Tool has announced two new M12 FUEL cordless bandfiles, designed for metalworking tasks such as smoothing down spot welds in automotive applications.
There will be two new tools – 3/8″ x 13″ (2483-20) and 1/2″ x 18″ (2482-20) bandfiles.
Milwaukee says that both tools deliver the best-in-class spot weld removal rate.
The two M12 FUEL bandfiles are nearly identical in design and specs, aside from the different abrasive belt sizes.
Each cordless bandfile offers full 360° tool-free arm rotation, which the brand says improves access and precision in hard-to-reach applications.
Additional features include quick belt changes, variable speed trigger, and LED worklights.
Milwaukee says that the new bandfiles deliver pneumatic performance without the hassle of hoses, cords, or routine tool maintenance.
Runtime claims: users can expect to remove up to 50 spot welds with the 18″ bandfile, or up to 65 with the 13″ bandfile, when powered by an M12 XC 4Ah battery.
A rear selector switch allows for speed selection and belt direction.
Key Features Specs
The tools will be available as bare tools, and will each ship with (2) 60-grit belts in their respective sizes and lengths (3/8″ x 12″ or 1/2″ x 18″).
Price: 249 (tool-only, each size is sold separately)ETA: January 2023
Note: Milwaukee corrected their runtime claim for the 3/8″ x 13″ bandfile; it can remove up to 65 spot welds when powered with an XC 4Ah battery, and not 40 as initially reported.
QA
Can users convert to a different size in the future?
No, Milwaukee will not be selling the arm separately to be able to swap out the arms.
Will Milwaukee offer replacement abrasives?
No, Milwaukee is not offering replacement abrasives.
Will there be kit versions?
At this time there are not plans to offer kits. Milwaukee will continue to listen to users feedback and adjust if needed.
What other applications might these be used for? Deburring?
Wood working: Cooping Sanding hard to reach areas
Metal working/Fabrications: De-burring, Weld Clean-up, Taking off sharp edges, Blending metal joints.
34 Комментарии и мнения владельцев
Nice to more cordless bandfiles I’ve been happy with my much cheaper (and much less sophisticated) Ryobi bandfile.
At work we use the Dynabrade brand air Band files in our machining and assembly areas. They are awesome for deburring machined stainless parts. I saved an “worn out” one from the scrap bin and refurbished it so have had my own for home shop use for many years. Hardly ever use it which is contrary to what I intended when I rescued it. Two years ago, I bought the Ryobi one on Black Friday sale for like 50. It is probably my most used power tool for random tasks due to the versatility and freedom afforded by not needing to be attached to an air hose. These Milwaukees look great as a step up from the Ryobi in flexibility, maneuverability and probably power and durability.m. I have never felt the desire to add another battery platform (currently into Ryobi and DeWALT 12 and 20v) but these are making me think really hard about it.
Have you found a situation where the Ryobi actually couldn’t do what you needed at home? J ust curious, because sometimes the fact that tool x can do more doesn’t mean tool y didn’t meet your needs. And in your case, if the decision were taken in isolation, you’d be saying the Ryobi lacked enough function that you’d add another battery platform to replace it. Obviously there can be 100 or a 1000 other factors.
For my “Harry Homeowner” uses, I have never felt that the Ryobi was not up to the task. The real advantages I see to the Milwaukee offerings are the availability of the smaller size, the ability to rotate the direction of the belt and the likely increased durability. If so we’re using these professionally or for a serious auto or metal working hobby, I would go with the Milwaukee all the way. Since getting married and having kids, I those hobbies are long in the past. For my needs (some listed in a post further down) the ryobi is great. The belt tracking is a bit finicky and it is a bit long but I am not picking. Hopefully they will have a deal for Black Friday. If mine broke tomorrow, I would buy another the first time very next time it goes on sale.
There are “kits” to convert the cutoff tool into a bandfile on ebay. Happy to see Milwaukee finally released their own version. It looks quite a bit sleeker than my Ryobi.
How do you like the Ryobi? Looks like it lacks some features of these but it’s currently on sale for 79.
I’m very glad to have it. I also bought mine on sale. It’s a very handy tool in certain circumstances. I feel like the belt speed could be higher, it’s somewhat bulky, it would be nice if the angle could be adjusted and having reverse would be sweet – but despite those drawbacks I’m not sure if I will pony up for these new M12 tools or not (I’m in both platforms).
Fantastic! Regulars will probably recall me complaining about the lack of bandfiles from many of the big companies for while now. It’s nice to see that Milwaukee stepped up to the plate! These look nice all around. First off they come in the typical automotive industry belt sizes. There’s a big variety of belts on the market including very high quality ones from Norton and 3M. That’s a big deal. I currently have a Makita LXT bandfile, it performs well but the 21″ long belt is an oddball size that’s difficult to find from anyone other than Makita. Their belts aren’t junk and the price isn’t terrible but they’re nowhere near as good as a Norton Blaze or a 3M Cubitron belt. The high/low speed is a nice touch, and so is the ability to reverse the belt direction. Only thing I’m curious about is if there is an ability to change the arms on these tools and if other styles may be available. Typically bandfiles can be equipped with a range of different width arms, but even if not I’ll likely buy both the moment they become available.
Fun Fact: You can use these for woodworking too. I bought a Makita 1″ belt sander about a decade ago for filing down inside edges of casings and coping small areas from mitered returns into walls and other such things. Have always wanted a cordless one. 1″ is actually even a tad large at time so a 1/2″ would be great.
They’re awesome for sharpening outdoor tools like axes, shovels, hoes, weeding tools, lawnmower edger and brushcutter blades, etc.
Yep. I sharpen the lawnmower blades and axe and shovels with it. Use it for woodworking. Use it for making doors stop sticking. It works for cleaning the ground in grime off the white souls of your kids’ sneakers. Turn on the garbage disposal with a spoon in it. Use the Band file to smooth out the burrs created. I use mine for all kind is sanding and polishing tasks. I sometimes clamp it in a bench vise and use like a mini belt sander.
They are a super handy tool to have around generally speaking. There are just so many times where it is nice to do a little sanding/grinding in a tight spot. Having the tool cordless only makes them more convenient for those small around-the-house jobs. I agree the Ryobi is great for homeowner tasks. Hopefully these Milwaukees will get the word out to more customers about this kind of tool, in my opinion these are a lot like a rotary tool aka Dremel, they have many general purpose DIY, home auto repair, etc, uses beyond their professional niches. Anything which gets more of these on the market, inspires competition, gets more customers familiar with them is a good thing in my book.
There seems to be three totally separate camps when it comes to bandfilesAuto body shops for the specific task of grinding out spot welds, the favored tool is usually a small pneumatic one. Ingersoll makes a cordless one currently, Milwaukee’s seems to be similarWelding/fabrication shops use heavier duty versions, like Metabo or Hilti’s. These are on the power level of an angle grinder, for smoothing welds, pipes, etcFinally you have the woodworking application. I don’t know if it is still current practice, but I know it was once very common to use a bandfile to file mortises in doors for installing locksets in Europe. My first bandfile, a corded Black Decker I imported from Europe as a teenager, was of this type.
We had a few different Dynabrade pneumatic ones in our metal fabrication shop. At home I have a Makita 9032 corded tool (bought about 16 years ago) – along with 3 different arms (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch wide x 21 inch long). I use the 1/4 inch ones the most.
The pictures are too small to see, but the drive end looks too big and bunky with all the protective covers. I hope they don’t go overboard in the name of safety.
Interesting… Finger-Sanders/Band Files are something I’ve been considering for a while now. They take down sharp edges on dangerously sharp things, and I honestly didn’t know which way I would pull. As said before, there’s two directions one can go: Angle Grinder Attachment, or Dedicated Tool. Seeing this new set of Milwaukee ones seems to give me the confidence to go for the Dedicated Tool direction. Probably won’t be a Milwaukee, but I may look into Proxxon’s finger sander. Corded, but I don’t need it for much. So, Bravo Milwaukee! ‘Bout time one of the big 2 handled (literally) this connundrum!
Proxxon’s sander is nice, but it is very much a light duty tool. It’s good for model making, craft projects, that kind of thing. I’m not sure what uses you had in mind for it but if its anything bigger than small hobby projects I’d look at something like the Ryobi or the Makita. Those aren’t super powerful like the industrial type models but they are a lot more capable than the Proxxon. Also, this is a super handy tool to have cordless, once you have one you will think of all kinds of uses for it, these kind of sanders are a lot like OMTs in that regard.
Taking down the edges of computer tower sides, rounding thin plate corners… Even use as a knife sharpener! We’re not talking anything major. I don’t have the large-scale use cases for a finger sander in my repetoire. If I welded? (It’s a wishlist skill. I don’t want to do it professionally, or join a union, I just want to learn a few different types, and perhaps one advanced type I’ve always wanted to see in action… Vacuum Welding… Just… two pieces of the same metal, same exact material, complete vacuum, you reach in using the equivalent of space suit gloves, and you push them together until the physical atoms bond, because there is literally nothing holding them apart from bonding. I already know the physics… I literally don’t own the equipment. If I did? I’d definitely step up to something like Milwaukee, or get a DeWALT Angle Grinder/Cutoff Tool, and get an Adapter kit for the welding projects. But… Milwaukee has convinced me… If the Big 2, Them and DeWALT, are starting to take finger sanders seriously, then the priority had better move up on my list!
“Runtime claims: users can expect to remove up to 50 spot welds with the 18″ bandfile, or up to 40 with the 13″ bandfile, when powered by an M12 XC 4Ah battery.” Why spot welds are removed with the tip, why would the length affect the number of welds can be removed? And even if it does effect, why would the longer one can last longer?
The longer bandfile has 5 more inches of abrasive available than the shorter model so it will cut more and last longer than the shorter belt, it’s simply a matter of how long the abrasive material will hold up and cut efficiently. It’s like the difference between a 6″ grinding wheel and a 4″ wheel, they will both grind just fine but the larger diameter wheel will always last longer given the same speed and cutting material.
Agree that the longer belt would last longer. But it said run time and mentioned battery size, thus the question.
I agree, this is confusing. Their use of the term “runtime” and mention of the battery spec really suggests they were talking about battery rather than belt life. Belt life would depend highly on what brand of belt was being used and they didn’t mention anything about that. If the two models have identical motors I would assume the 1/2×18 version would have shorter runtime compared to the 3/8. The wider belt would require more energy to flex over the rollers in the tool. Also the wider belt would make a wider cut in the metal where the spotweld is being removed and that would require more power. So my gut feeling is that the larger model would have shorter runtime. Perhaps someone mixed up the stats along the way?
I asked for clarification. The product managers are all at a trade show (SEMA 2022) and I don’t expect to hear back from them until next week. I don’t quite understand it either, and didn’t want to try to guess.
Being in autobody, most people I know use a 1/2inch air because its faster to remove the weld. In theory I would say the 1/2 would remove more welds because of the surface area touching the spot weld. Assume the spot you need to grind out is 1/2inch. With the larger model you would grind it all at once and say it takes 5 seconds. With the 3/8 model you would need to move it side to side and it would take more time to grind the weld out completely. Say it took 6.2 seconds of run time. which accounts for the difference in battery life. this math isn’t exact just a quick example off top of my head on my thoughts and experience to help explain.
Also you are correct that wider belt should be using more energy, Due to surface area and friction. But maybe that usage may have less of impact on power consumption than the extra runtime needed on smaller version. I am no expert just another person trying to make sense of claim
The runtime claims were previously updated; the shorter bandfile does last longer – 65 spot welds removed vs 50.
so is the motor on the 1/2 in model larger? from the specs it would appear that it would have to have more torque and is limited by the same input volts. Nice to see.
As a knee-jerk reaction, I’m interested. Bandfile type tools have quite a few useful applications, however, I already own the cut-off tool and it is GUTLESS, even with a 6.0 on it. I had to use a feather touch to control my cuts in order to not bog the motor down until it stalled out. I realize that this isn’t an angle grinder, but I’ve watched guys get a little heavy handed with these tools in the past. I may buy the aftermarket kit for my existing one, but this is one of the few I doubt I’ll jump on.
Update: I received corrected runtime specs, and also answers to the questions I asked. I have added these to the end of the post.
Thanks for the update. It sounds like our general thoughts about the runtime numbers being fishy were correct. I’m planning on picking up both of these, I’m just waiting for a deal. There are some Buy Save offers for Milwaukee right now but they don’t include these tools.
Tips for creating a smooth surface in 9 applications
The final step in achieving a mirror finish on a stainless steel tube is using a buffing wheel and a polishing paste.
Editor’s Note: This article was originally published in the October 2016 issue of Canadian Fabricating Welding.
By definition, fine grinding is the blending of a weldment to the surface of the metal for a smooth, consistent, and attractive appearance. When you are working on stainless steel grades—whether for appliances, structural parts, sheet metal housings that are visible on the finished product without being painted or coated, or architectural adornments—choosing the right equipment and consumables for each step of the process will help you produce your desired result.
The following are tips for achieving a quality finish in nine typical applications. These guidelines provide a starting point to plan your finishing jobs, but most tool and abrasive suppliers are ready to offer suggestions for applications from typical to challenging.
No. 1: Blending Welded Connections on Railings
Blending welded surfaces on corners, squares, and rounds is the key to producing attractive welded connections on railings (see Figure 1). Use 40-, 60-, or 80-grain belts in a belt grinder to grind down the weld. Then use a coarse, medium, fine, or ultrafine conditioning belt to blend the surface. For flat surfaces, use an elastic drum and nonwoven nylon flat brush. Use a tube polishing wrap for pipes and tubes. Grain sizes up to 320 will produce the desired results even on extremely small radii.
Using a grinder with a speed regulator will help you achieve the optimal finish. An adjustable belt grinder arm on the tool makes it easier to use, decreases the fatigue you’ll experience, and yields better results.
No. 2: Prep and Finishing Work on Pressure Vessels
For a typical No. 4 finish with RA 15-25 on a pressure vessel, use a 40- to 320-grain belt grind and finish with a flap brush. You can create a satin finish by using a nylon flap brush followed by polishing with a buffing wheel and a cutting/polishing compound (see Figure 2).
Many finishing tools offer quick-change tooling systems to reduce downtime, and many are portable. Keep in mind that portable tools with detachable handpieces reduce fatigue because they don’t have to carry the weight of the entire drive unit (see Figure 3). Some models are available for working in very confined and hard-to-reach places.
Look for dust-sealed units with low noise levels and vibration-free operation. Air-cooled induction motors can provide long service life and minimum wear.
No. 3: Grinding on Commercial Food Service Grills
Reducing the size of surface weld beads is a key challenge when working on commercial-grade food service grills (see Figure 4). Start by using a pneumatic grinder with 36- to 80-grit discs to rough-grind the surface. Finish with a pneumatic drum with a 40- to 220-grit abrasive belt, and then work all surfaces with an extended pneumatic straight grinder and 60- to 240-grit fiber brushes. Finishing discs made of synthetic fiber, grit, and resin will eliminate welding discoloration.
No. 4: Polishing Stainless Steel Tubes to a Mirror Finish
To polish a stainless steel tube to a mirror finish, begin by preparing the surface with a belt grinder using an 80- to 120-grit zirconia belt. Then switch to a surface conditioning belt for medium to ultrafine finishes. Use a prepolish wheel and polishing compound.
Figure 1 Blending welded surfaces on corners, squares, and rounds is the key to producing attractive welded connections on railings.
Polish with a polishing wheel and polishing compound, and then complete the mirror finish using a buffing wheel and a polishing paste (see lead photo).
No. 5: Grinding Weld and Miter Joints on Structural Steels
Remove the weld beads from structural steel miter joints using 60- to 150-grit zirconium-fiber discs. Then use a drum sander with a 40- to 220-grit zirconium-blend belt. Cover with a template. A surface conditioning belt will give you a fine finish, while a 100- to 200-grit fine flap brush will result in a satin finish.
No. 6: Graining of Stainless Steel Welds
Begin the graining process on a stainless steel weld with a pregrind using a pneumatic right-angle grinder with a plastic support plate with a cooling effect and an 80-grit fiber disc. Finish with a pneumatic drum using a straight grinder.
Grain the surface using a right-angle grinder with nonwoven, medium, or high-hardness finishing discs. Grind the weld bead with a 120-grit grinding belt and a 40- to 320-grit finishing belt.
No. 7: Eliminating the Orange Peel Effect
To smooth the orange peel effect, begin with a rough prep using a 40-grain belt. Then fine-grind it with a soft contact roller and A160 Trizact belt. Satin-finish with a soft contact roller and medium surface conditioning belt.
You can achieve an industrial-grade finish by using a flap brush and 220-grain abrasive pad.
No. 8: Grinding Inside Corners on Stainless
To finish the inside corners of a stainless steel component, begin by smoothing the weld with an electric angle grinder with an 80-grain mini flap wheel. Then fine-surface-grind them using an electric angle grinder and soft disc—between an A160 and A16 grain—with a Trizact grinding wheel.
Use an electric file and nonwoven pads from 60 to 400 grain to define the surface grain.
No. 9: Grinding and Polishing Extruder Feeds
Start with a preliminary grind on an extruder feed shaft using a belt grinder and a 40- to 80-grain zirconium corundum belt to grind and polish. Work the flanks with 80- to 120-grain Velcro fiber wheels. Fine-grind the shaft and flanks with a roll attachment. Polish with twisted polishing rings and polishing paste, especially if you are working with stainless.
