How to Remove the Lawnmower Crankshaft From an Engine. Crankshaft on lawn mower
How to Remove the Lawnmower Crankshaft From an Engine
Lawnmower crankshafts can get bent from the blade hitting a solid object while mowing, such as a tree root or rock. A crooked crankshaft can occasionally be straightened by heating and bending in a vice, but a severely bent shaft might have to be replaced. The connecting rod pin on the crankshaft will eventually wear enough to require a replacement crank after years of use.
The shaft is cast as one piece of steel, and much of the engine must be disassembled to get it out. Lawnmower engines in the 3 to 6-HP range require very similar procedures for crankshaft removal.
Remove engine fluids
Place a drain pan next to the lawnmower. Tilt the mower enough to gain access to the oil drain plug, and unscrew it with a socket wrench. Drain the oil from the lawnmower engine.
Use a pair of pliers to compress the fuel hose clamp where it attaches to the fuel tank. Remove the fuel hose from the gas tank and drain all of the gas out. Remove the gas cap and turn the mower on its side for an alternate drain method.
Remove the air filter housing, fuel tank or fuel tank/carburetor assembly.
Remove engine attachments
Use a Phillips-head or flat-blade screwdriver to unhook the throttle cable and engine cut-off cables, if so equipped.
Remove the oil tube dipstick, if so equipped.
Remove the pull-start cowl; on electric start models, remove the metal shroud which is bolted on the top of the engine.
Disconnect the spark plug wire. Remove the ignition module or magneto and remove the spark plug.
Remove flywheel
Tap the round starter clutch (if so equipped) moderately with a rubber hammer in a counterclockwise direction to unscrew it from the crankshaft. Take the clutch off.
Unbolt the flywheel. Use a cheater bar or piece of wood to stabilize the flywheel while loosening the bolt. Be careful to not break any of the cooling fins.
Pry under the flywheel with a large flat-blade screwdriver while tapping on the crankshaft end with a rubber hammer. Use a flywheel puller if it still won’t break free. Remove the flywheel. Take out the shear pin from the crankshaft slot.
Remove engine
Turn the lawnmower on its side.
Wear work gloves, and grasp the blade along an un-sharpened section. Hold the blade firmly while rotating the blade bolt with a large wrench to loosen. Remove the bolt and blade.
Turn the mower upright. Locate the engine mount bolts which hold the engine and deck together.
Remove the bolts and the engine from the mower. Place the engine on a workbench for a more comfortable work space.
Remove Valve Spring
Remove the two small screws holding the valve cover in place and take off the cover.
Clamp the valve spring compressor tool onto the top of the spring on one end and between the metal washer and the spring end on the other. Compress the spring.
Jiggle the metal washer until it slides off through the notch on its edge. Remove the washer and slowly release the spring. Do not remove the spring from the chamber. Repeat this process with the other spring.
Remove Crankshaft
Remove the lower engine case on the blade side of the engine. Slide the cover off gently—oil may run out as you take off the cover.
Grasp the camshaft gear and pull it free. Remove it.
Bend the retaining tabs downward from around the connecting rod end cap bolts. Unscrew the bolts and take off the rod end cap.
Press the connecting rod upward so the piston slides to the top of the cylinder. Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod pin points away from the cylinder.
Slide the crankshaft toward you and remove it from the engine.
Wash the engine exterior with engine cleaner and a spray nozzle before beginning. Place a large piece of cardboard underneath and around the work area.
Wait until the engine is cool before attempting this procedure. Keep your head away from the flywheel when breaking it free—it may suddenly snap upward. Use work gloves when removing the camshaft—the gear is rather sharp.
Lawn Mower and Tractor Insight
Humphreys Outdoor Power give you insight to make your tractor or lawn mower last with best practices to get the most out of your machine.
Signs its Time to Retire Your Lawn Mower
It’s the beginning of the mowing season, you’ve mown your yard a few times and you’ve seen how you’re mower is acting after a long winter. Now you have the hard decision of deciding whether or not its time to retire you’re faithful cutting machine or see if you can fix it up (or have us fix it up). We can’t speak to the sentimental bond between a man and his lawn mower but we can talk about economics and whether a lawn mower is worth being repaired. Here are five things that typically spell the end of the line for your mower. These repairs are usually more costly than the machine is worth. Of course there are exceptions to every rule, but in general here some signs its time to scrap your lawn mower.
You hear a knocking sound
If your engine is knockin’ you better be shoppin’- most of the time knocking in the engine is a result of a bent crankshaft or a broken or bent rod. This is a terribly expensive lawn mower repair and most of the time you’re better off looking for a new mower. One of the main causes of this is running the machine out of oil. Make sure you’re always checking your oil level!
Your Engine is vibrating too much
How much is too much? You’ll know. When it seems like the engine might vibrate right off your machine, you’ve got an issue. This is yet another sign of a bent crankshaft or broken/bent rod. Double check your oil!
Smoke is coming out of your exhaust
In some cases this can be repaired by a head gasket which isn’t usually that expensive, but in other cases your rings may be worn out causing your engine to use too much gas and scoring your cylinder. This can be caused by not cleaning your air filter (debris gets in the cylinder and wears down your rings), or your rings could just be worn out. Regardless, depending on the severity of the scoring it might be time for another engine and at that point you should be looking at a new lawn mower.
You’re using too much oil
This usually goes with smoke coming out of the exhaust. The oil has to go somewhere and it’s usually into the cylinder. If you have to add oil after each mow job, you’re either mowing way to much or you have a problem. Not to mention oil is in itself expensive.
This is one thing on this list that is external on the machine. If you have a rusty deck you’ve lost most of your support and you’re running the risk of the blades flying off while you’re mowing, among other things. In some cases the mowing deck can be the most expensive part of the lawn mower, so it sometimes means it’s time to find a new lawn mower.
Bonus Section: Fixable Issues (But you need to get your lawn mower repaired now)
Won’t Start: This seems pretty basic and can be caused by a lot of different things. One of the most costly is that you’ve lost compression. This means the fuel you’re running wont ignite. A lot of times this can be fixed with a head gasket or new set of valves
Losing Horsepower in heavy grass: This is another sign that you’re losing compression. Not only is it annoying, it can be a serious problem and its important to get it fixed soon.
Your engine is missing: This is most often caused by fouled plugs due to above average oil use. It can be caused by damaged rings, bad air filter or scored cylinder among other things. It can also be caused by debris in your gas tank which is a pretty easy fix. The moral of the story is that this can cause a serious problem down the road and you need to have a professional take a look at it immediately.
Don’t want your lawn mower die just yet? Avoid these common maintenance mistakes!
This article is intended for use with riding lawn mowers. Push mowers and handheld power equipment is different because minor repairs can quickly add up to the cost of a new unit. Riding lawn mowers and zero turn lawn mowers can be a little more tricky when it comes to deciding to replace them, simply because they’re a larger investment. If you’re experiencing one or more of these side effects with your mower contact us today.
Lawn Mower and Tractor Insight
Humphreys Outdoor Power give you insight to make your tractor or lawn mower last with best practices to get the most out of your machine.
Signs its Time to Retire Your Lawn Mower
It’s the beginning of the mowing season, you’ve mown your yard a few times and you’ve seen how you’re mower is acting after a long winter. Now you have the hard decision of deciding whether or not its time to retire you’re faithful cutting machine or see if you can fix it up (or have us fix it up). We can’t speak to the sentimental bond between a man and his lawn mower but we can talk about economics and whether a lawn mower is worth being repaired. Here are five things that typically spell the end of the line for your mower. These repairs are usually more costly than the machine is worth. Of course there are exceptions to every rule, but in general here some signs its time to scrap your lawn mower.
You hear a knocking sound
If your engine is knockin’ you better be shoppin’- most of the time knocking in the engine is a result of a bent crankshaft or a broken or bent rod. This is a terribly expensive lawn mower repair and most of the time you’re better off looking for a new mower. One of the main causes of this is running the machine out of oil. Make sure you’re always checking your oil level!
Your Engine is vibrating too much
How much is too much? You’ll know. When it seems like the engine might vibrate right off your machine, you’ve got an issue. This is yet another sign of a bent crankshaft or broken/bent rod. Double check your oil!
Smoke is coming out of your exhaust
In some cases this can be repaired by a head gasket which isn’t usually that expensive, but in other cases your rings may be worn out causing your engine to use too much gas and scoring your cylinder. This can be caused by not cleaning your air filter (debris gets in the cylinder and wears down your rings), or your rings could just be worn out. Regardless, depending on the severity of the scoring it might be time for another engine and at that point you should be looking at a new lawn mower.
You’re using too much oil
This usually goes with smoke coming out of the exhaust. The oil has to go somewhere and it’s usually into the cylinder. If you have to add oil after each mow job, you’re either mowing way to much or you have a problem. Not to mention oil is in itself expensive.
This is one thing on this list that is external on the machine. If you have a rusty deck you’ve lost most of your support and you’re running the risk of the blades flying off while you’re mowing, among other things. In some cases the mowing deck can be the most expensive part of the lawn mower, so it sometimes means it’s time to find a new lawn mower.
Bonus Section: Fixable Issues (But you need to get your lawn mower repaired now)
Won’t Start: This seems pretty basic and can be caused by a lot of different things. One of the most costly is that you’ve lost compression. This means the fuel you’re running wont ignite. A lot of times this can be fixed with a head gasket or new set of valves
Losing Horsepower in heavy grass: This is another sign that you’re losing compression. Not only is it annoying, it can be a serious problem and its important to get it fixed soon.
Your engine is missing: This is most often caused by fouled plugs due to above average oil use. It can be caused by damaged rings, bad air filter or scored cylinder among other things. It can also be caused by debris in your gas tank which is a pretty easy fix. The moral of the story is that this can cause a serious problem down the road and you need to have a professional take a look at it immediately.
Don’t want your lawn mower die just yet? Avoid these common maintenance mistakes!
This article is intended for use with riding lawn mowers. Push mowers and handheld power equipment is different because minor repairs can quickly add up to the cost of a new unit. Riding lawn mowers and zero turn lawn mowers can be a little more tricky when it comes to deciding to replace them, simply because they’re a larger investment. If you’re experiencing one or more of these side effects with your mower contact us today.
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Feel confident in tuning up your lawn mower or garden equipment this season with our Home Maintenance Kits. Easily find the right product so you can DIY and save!
Looking for your Serial Number?
Finding your lawn mower’s model number and serial number is as easy as locating the identification tag on your machine. As seen in the example, the model number will be displayed below the MODEL heading (Example: Z235), and the serial number will be underlined on the top-right corner of the tag (Example: 130002).
If you’re looking for the engine number, that can be found directly on the engine itself.
Home and Garden, eat your heart out.
Get the latest on how to care for and enjoy your yard and garden. The articles and videos are informative and the ideas are amazing.
MowerPlus Mobile App
MowerPlus is the app you need to keep your John Deere riding lawn mower running well and your lawn looking great this season. The app tracks and records yard tasks and serves as a one-stop shop for seasonal care tips and maintenance activities. Know your mower and know how you mow with John Deere’s MowerPlus app.
The Right Part. The Right Price.
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Genuine John Deere Belts Blades are your best choice for your newer machines.
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Alternative Parts are an economical solution for your John Deere equipment.
The John Deere Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System
Never drain engine oil again.
We’ve changed the oil change. Revolutionized it really. See how fast and easy changing your oil can now be on 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors with the John Deere Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System. Only from John Deere. Included on the E120, E130, E150, E160, E170, and E180 models.
Step One. Take it off.
Lift the hood. Make sure the engine is cool, then, twist to remove. It’s that simple.
Step Two. Twist and lock.
“Grab” the new Easy Change Canister, twist and lock into place. Make sure the arrow on your Filter System aligns with the arrow on your engine.
Step three. Done.
Close the hood and mow. John Deere recommends the Easy Change 30-second Oil Change System every 50 hours or at the end of your mowing season. Don’t drain engine oil ever again.
Draining engine oil is so 2017.
The engine modifications and new technologies are in. The re-envisioned oil filter with a media designed to resist breaking down in oil over time is here. The thousands of hours of testing are done. The end result is an all-in-one, oil and oil filter system like no other. The first of its kind. And thanks to the new John Deere Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System (“System”), you’ll never have to drain the oil from 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors again.
Here’s why: The new System captures contaminants and recharges your engine with nearly a quart (0.8qt) (0.76 l) of new oil. In fact, this System increases the amount of oil in the engine by nearly 40%. 2 Your engine likes that.
What do you mean, I will never have to drain oil from my engine again? How is that possible? The answer is simple. We have developed a better filtration system and filter design for our 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors 1. This fully synthetic filter media has greater surface area which increases its capacity to hold harmful contaminants. What’s more, the filter media is designed to resist breaking down in oil over time. Which means you’ll get a cooler running engine. And a cooler running engine and better filtering helps increase engine oil life. John Deere’s recommended oil service for 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors 1. is to change the System every 50 hours or once a season, whichever comes first. Remember, the System replaces a portion of your engine oil. And that’s plenty.
The System uses John Deere Turf-Gard Oil. Using John Deere Turf-Gard Oil ensures you are using the exact oil specified by John Deere engineers.
Testing. Testing. Testing. Thanks to thousands of hours of rigorous and extensive testing, you can feel confident your engine will run for years to come.
1 The John Deere Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System is available on E120, E130, E150, E160, E170 and E180 Lawn Tractors today.
2 Compared to similar V-Twin engine models that do not have the John Deere Easy Change 30-Second Oil Change System. That includes equivalent Deere 2017 models and 2018 models without the System.
Frequently Asked Questions:
What is new with John Deere Riding Lawn Equipment?
We are excited about the exclusive John Deere Easy Change 30 second oil change system. Exclusive to John Deere and only available on certain models of the new 100 Series Lawn Tractors. These tractors are designed for ease of use for both operation and maintenance. The John Deere Easy Change System (“Easy Change”) allows the user to easily complete the recommended engine oil and filter maintenance in 30 seconds.
What is this new oil change system?
We changed the oil change. The all-in-one oil and oil filter system gives the owner the ability to change a portion of the oil and the filter in less than 30 seconds.
What happens to the rest of the oil in the engine when the Easy Change system is replaced?
The Easy Change system replaces.8 quart of oil. The remaining oil in the engine is refreshed by the charge of new oil included in the replacement Easy Change system. Combined with 40% more engine oil capacity, improved filtration and cooler running temperatures which help extend oil life, it is no longer necessary to remove and dispose of all the oil in your engine during service.
What makes the Easy Change system unique from other filters?
It is not just a filter. It is a newly developed technology system that allows a new “filter” to come already charged with oil and allows you to remove an existing filter and the contaminants inside without tools and without making a mess. Beyond the filter, technology within the canister and on your engine makes this possible.
Models with the Easy Change oil system use a fully synthetic filter that has more capacity to trap and hold contaminants. The larger surface area of the Easy Change canister acts like a radiator helping the oil to stay cool.
Does the Easy Change system somehow decrease the life of the engine?
The John Deere 100 Series lawn tractor models, with and without Easy Change, are specified for the same lifetime and are rigorously tested to the same standards to ensure the life of the tractor meets expectations.
Can I add the Easy change system to an existing tractor?
Because this system also requires unique features within the engine, the Easy Change system cannot be added to an engine that was not equipped with it at the factory.
Can I change all the oil if I choose to?
You could if you wanted to. There is an oil drain plug. It is not required for maintenance.
How often do I need to change the Easy Change canister?
Every 50 hours or once a year. The 100 Series Lawn Tractors with and without the Easy Change system have the same maintenance schedule.
What type of oil is recommended?
We recommend only John Deere Turf-Gard 10W30 Oil. The Easy Change canister comes pre-filled with John Deere Turf-Gard 10W30 oil.
How do I recycle the old oil?
Many local government recycling programs, authorized retailers, auto repair stations, and auto parts stores will puncture and recycle used oil filters and oil.
Do I ever need to add oil?
Yes. Consistent with our service recommendations for this product, you should check oil level daily and add oil if required.
Riding lawn mower engine spins but won’t start video
Find out what to do when your riding lawn mower spins but won’t start. Once it’s spinning, the engine needs 3 things to run—fuel, spark and compression. This video helps you find out which one of those elements is missing in your engine by showing you a quick starter fluid test that can rule out several issues. Then we’ll show you how to check for problems with the fuel supply, the spark plug, ignition coil and flywheel key. Following these troubleshooting steps should help you get your riding lawn mower started so you can get back to mowing.
For additional repair help, including common symptoms and troubleshooting tips, step-by-step riding lawn mower and tractor repair guides and articles, check out our repair help section. In addition, find the riding mower parts you need to fix your mower.
Supplies you might need
- Air filter (if dirty)
- Fresh gasoline (if old)
- Fuel stabilizer
- Fuel filter (if dirty)
- Fuel line (if clogged)
- Fuel pump (if broken)
- Ignition coil (if spark plug wire is damaged or there’s no spark)
- Spark plug (if fouled or damaged)
- Spark plug wrench
- Spark plug tester
- Flywheel key (if broken)
- Flywheel puller
- Cylinder compression gauge (if all else fails)
The supplies you need depend on how far into the troubleshooting steps you go before solving the problem. Starter fluid is used in the first test, so you do need it.
Hi, Wayne here from Sears PartsDirect. Today we’re going to troubleshoot a riding lawn mower engine that spins but won’t start when the starter motor runs. Once it’s spinning, the engine needs 3 things to run—fuel, spark and compression.
Test the fuel supply
Here’s a quick test that can often eliminate 2 of those suspects right away. We’ll check to see if the engine has compression and spark by spraying a short burst of starter fluid into the engine’s cylinder. The highly combustible starter fluid will start the engine briefly if the cylinder gets spark and the right amount of compression.
In a well-ventilated area, pull off the air filter and spray a short burst of starter fluid into the cylinder through the carburetor’s air intake. Now try to start the engine.
If the engine doesn’t start at all, you can skip the next section on fuel system troubleshooting and move on to checking the ignition system.
If the engine starts briefly and then dies, you know the spark and compression are okay, leaving you with a fuel supply problem.
Troubleshoot the fuel system
A dirty carburetor is usually the culprit when the engine isn’t getting fuel. But, before you replace or rebuild the carburetor, check these basic fuel supply issues so you don’t waste your money on a part that you don’t need.
- If the air filter you just pulled off is dirty, replace it. You need a clean air filter so the right amount of air can mix with the fuel to start the engine. Here’s a video that shows how to replace the air filter.
- If you haven’t used the riding mower for several months, drain and refill the fuel tank with fresh gas. Over time, gas absorbs water and loses combustibility. In the future, if you don’t use up all the gas before storing your riding mower for several months, add fuel stabilizer to your gas tank.
- Replace the fuel filter if you haven’t changed it within the last year. A clogged fuel filter won’t allow gas to flow to the carburetor. Here’s a video that shows you how.
- Check the wire harness connection on the fuel solenoid valve. The fuel solenoid valve shuts off fuel to the carburetor to prevent backfire when you kill the engine. If the wire’s disconnected, the solenoid won’t open to allow fuel to flow to the carburetor. Reconnect the valve wire harness if you find it disconnected.
- Check the fuel line from the fuel tank to the carburetor for clogs or damage. Clear any clogs and replace the fuel line if damaged.
- If your engine has a fuel pump, replace the pump if it doesn’t move gas through the fuel line to the carburetor.
If you found no problems when checking these fuel system issues, then rebuild or replace the carburetor to restore the fuel supply to your engine. Here’s a video that shows how to replace the carburetor and one that shows how to rebuild it.
Troubleshoot the ignition system
If your engine didn’t start with the help of starter fluid, check the ignition system.
First, make sure you have the spark plug wire firmly connected to the plug. Replace the ignition coil if you find damage to the spark plug wire because the wire is part of the coil. Here’s a video that shows how.
If you found no problems with the spark plug wire, pull the spark plug wire off the spark plug and remove the spark plug. Check the spark plug tip for carbon or oil deposits that could prevent the plug from sparking. Also, check for cracks in the plug’s insulator. Replace the spark plug if it’s too fouled to spark or the insulator is cracked. Here’s a video that shows how.
If the spark plug looks okay, use a spark plug tester to see if the plug gets current from the ignition coil. To test it, install the spark plug and connect the boot of the tester to the spark plug. Connect the engine’s spark plug wire to the other end of the tester. Crank the engine and see if the tester sparks.
If the tester doesn’t spark, it’s likely you need to replace the ignition coil. Here’s a video that shows how.
Check the flywheel key
If the plug sparks, that means the ignition coil is good, but the timing for the spark might be off.
Here’s how the timing works on a riding lawn mower engine.
The flywheel magnet and ignition coil control spark timing. When the flywheel magnet passes the ignition coil, the coil generates and sends current to the spark plug, causing the spark.
The flywheel key keeps the flywheel aligned on the engine crankshaft so the magnet passes the ignition coil at the right time.
The flywheel key is a small metal rectangle that keeps the crankshaft and flywheel aligned when you tighten the flywheel bolt. To protect expensive engine components from damage, the flywheel key shears if a mower blade hits an object with enough force to make the flywheel slip out of alignment with the crankshaft. If you hit a rock or stump and the engine suddenly stops, you may have knocked off the timing by damaging or breaking the flywheel key.
A damaged flywheel key means the magnet won’t pass the ignition coil at the right time for the spark plug to ignite the fuel to start and run the engine.
If this scenario sounds familiar because you did hit an object while mowing and the engine stopped, remove the flywheel and check that key. Replace the flywheel key if you find damage. Here’s a video that shows you how.
Check the cylinder compression
If you find no problems with the ignition system, then a compression problem could be preventing the engine from starting.
Check the oil level to see if the engine is overfilled. Drain some oil to drop it below the maximum fill level.
If the oil level is okay, pull out the spark plug and check cylinder compression using a compression gauge. This test shows whether the piston is compressing the air and fuel mixture in the cylinder.
Connect the compression gauge to the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Zero the compression gauge. Briefly turn the key to the start position so the starter motor spins the engine.
Check the compression reading. Most engines should measure over 40 psi of compression. Many engines produce more than 80 psi.
If cylinder compression is less than 40 psi, the piston isn’t compressing air inside the cylinder. Keep in mind that a low compression reading shows you that a compression problem exists, but doesn’t reveal the cause. You might need to adjust the valves or replace the piston rings. A damaged cylinder wall can also prevent the piston from compressing air inside the cylinder.
To accurately analyze a compression problem, have a service technician do a leak-down test on the engine. The technician will use an air compressor and special tools to find where the air leaks.
Once the technician finds the cause of the compression problem and fixes it, you can get back to mowing.
I hope this video helps you out today. Check out our other videos on the Sears PartsDirect YouTube channel and subscribe to see when we post new videos.
