Mower Blade Guide
When you look at your mower blade from the end, if the underside of the cutting edge is not flat to a table (parallel to the ground or center section), that will alter the angle of your grind. This is a tilt or twist forward, similar to a propeller. If you have a blade like that, you will want a Model 5005. The 5005 gives you the ability to easily adjust the grinding angle to compensate for the altered cutting edge angle. The video below goes into more detail. After reviewing the information below, if you are still unsure about your blade geometry, please contact us and we will help you choose the right model for your mower blades.
Blades With Potential Issues
We have encountered some mower blade styles that have issues being mounted in our vise. If you have one of these, you should check in with us first.
- Some eXmark 48” and smaller deck mowers have bi-level mulching blades where the cutting edge runs all the way into the center of the blade, beyond the center hole. This will cause mounting issues in our vise system that we do not yet have a solution for.
- Some mower blades have raised edges on the sides in the center mounting area. Not all, but some Toro, Snapper, and Cub Cadet blades fall into this category. There are other brands that may have this geometry as well. This causes issues but can be overcome by backing the vise screws out to raise them up so the blade will fit under them.
- Snapper Ninja mower blades are not able to be sharpened in our current units. We have not been able to create an adapter that will allow you to grind on the 4 blade edges.
- John Deere makes a mower blade for some older series of tractors that is too wide to fit in our jigs. These blades have a circular center hub that is 4 inches wide. We do not have an adapter or mounting solution for this type of mower blade.
- Dixie Chopper blades with the X—Blade system have raised centers that are stamped at an angle. This causes mounting issues in our vise system. We now have an additional adapter that can be used to properly mount the X-blades in our system.
- Honda riding lawn tractor mulching blades have a shape that will cause issues in our jigs. We have not been able to test or accommodate these blades yet. We do have an adapter for the Honda walk behind Microcut Twin Blade Sets.
Standard Mower Blades
The standard blade, as we refer to it, doesn’t have any altered angles along the cutting edge. It’s straight and simple. If you are looking to grind a 30 degree edge on these blades, you only need the Model 5002. If you want more angle options and versatility, check out the Model 5005.
John Deere Blades
John Deere mower blades can look deceptively like standard straight blades. But many, if not most of them, have a significant tilt or twist forward in the cutting section, so it is not parallel with the center section. This will alter the angle of the grind, so a setting beyond 30 degrees is necessary to compensate for the tilt. Our Model 5005 is the only jig we provide that makes it easy to choose steeper angle settings. Many John Deere customer have told us they needed to adjust their 5005 all the way to the 45 degree setting.
If the blade is used or worn, or has been previously sharpened, the angle may be beyond 45 degrees to the ground. If this is the case, it will take extra grinding to reset the angle. 45 degrees is the maximum angle adjustment in that direction. We have not found any new John Deere blades that needed an angle setting beyond 45 degrees.
John Deere also makes a mower blade (pictured above) that is too wide to fit in our jigs. These blades have a circular center hub that is 4 inches wide. We do not have an adapter or mounting solution for this type of mower blade.
Gator Mulching Blades
Gator mulching blades look more complex because of the mulching fins. But the cutting edge is the only part that needs sharpened. We have found that, due to a slight tilt forward along the cutting edge, the 35 degree setting is best to keep the factory edge on most Gator blades. We have found that most Ferris blades also have a slight tilt forward and work best with the 35 degree setting as well. The Model 5005 gives you the ability to grind at that angle.
Commercial Bi-level Mulching Blades
Bi-level mulching blades are a little more tricky. The outside cutting edge is parallel to the mounting surface. But the inside mulching section edge is raised and stamped at a different angle. We created the Model 5000 specifically to handle these. With a simple flick of the wrist, you can switch between the 30 degree setting on the outside edge or the 15 degree setting for inside mulching edge. In many cases, the Model 5005 is the better choice due to angle variances. Please read the text below …
Don’t sharpen your lawn mower blades! Do this instead!
If the underside of the outer cutting edge is not flat or parallel to the ground or the mounting section of your blade, it will alter your grinding angle. If that is the case, you will need a Model 5005 to compensate for the altered cutting edge angle.
Twisted High Lift Blades
We used to refer to these as high lift blades. But some mower blades are considered high lift without having the twisted end that makes these unique. That twist on the end alters the angle of the cutting edge. Since the cutting edge angles upward and isn’t parallel with the mounting surface, there needs to be an adjustment to compensate for that angle. The Model 5005 gives you the angle adjustments needed to fine tune your grinding edge to your preference. We see this type of blade on a lot of John Deere mowers. But there are other brands that incorporate a twisted high lift blade as well.
Honda Mower Blades
Honda Quadracut and MicroCut Twin Blade sets have a unique design and shape. We have fabricated an adapter so these blades can be mounted in our jigs. To match the factory bevel, we recommend the Model 5005 in conjunction with the Honda Adapter.
Counter-Rotating Mower Blades
Some mowers use blades that rotate in the opposite direction. We have heard these referred to as left-hand, counterclockwise, and counter-rotating blades. These will have the cutting edge on the other side of the blade. To adjust for this, all of our current Generation 2 models have extended guide arms. This gives you the extra range of motion needed to reach the cutting edge of your counter-rotating blades at the the bottom of the jig. We have seen these types of blades on many Walker mowers. But they are not exclusive to that brand. The 35 degree setting worked well with the Walker blades we have tested. For that reason, if you are planning to sharpen Walker mower blades, we recommend the Model 5005.
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A Complete Guide on Lawn Mower Blade – Everything You Need to Know!
A lawn mower blade is a sharp-edged metal cutting tool mounted on the lawn mower to cut grass and other vegetation in a uniform manner. It is an essential tool to keep your lawn healthy, but you must choose the right blade for your lawn mower to achieve that.
So, what should you look for when selecting a new blade for your mower?
First, grasp what type of lawn mower model you own. Then consider factors such as engine power capacity, required blade type, size, built-in design material.
Continue reading the following article to learn everything you need to know about mower blades to make the right decision.
Sharpen Mower Blade in 2.1 min!
What Type of Blade Do You Need for Your Lawn Mower?
Lawn mower blades are built for specific jobs, which implies that particular mower blades will excel at some chores while failing at others.
Read all the information below carefully to understand each blade type and choose the best one for your lawn mower.
The Standard (Medium Lift) Straight Mower Blades:
Medium-lift or standard straight mower blades are used on lawnmowers that spin horizontally and release debris from the side.
Their small curves edges help create an uninterrupted flow of air when the blade turns, allowing for accurate cutting.
The Lifting Lawn Mower Blades:
Lifting blades create better air movement and suction for bagging and side discharging.
- Low lift: theseare 3-4 inches long and require less energy from the engine, resulting in a longer life span for lawnmowers. Their low suction and low lift features ensure long-term durability and quiet operation.
- High lift: allows for maximum airflow and vertical suction, allowing for accurate trimming and a clean, tidy look. They have strong suction force, making them ideal for bagging.
The Mulching Blades:
These multi-purpose Mulching Blades chop the grass into smaller bits and expel it back into the ground, a great way to fertilize it while maintaining an attractive finish.
Even their curved surfaces allow for cutting grass and blowing away clippings.
The Gator (Toothed) Blades:
Gator blades are modified to fertilize soil more effectively.
They are designed to generate maximum suction and pull grass upwards, which allows the mower to cut grass with precision and permits tall grass to be cut into smaller pieces.
Two other types of blades are quite popular among users these days_
a) The Flat Mower Blades:
These blades are designed to be completely flat and create zero lifting movement during mowing.
b) The Self-Sharpening Mower Blades:
Self-sharpening blades are the newest edition in lawn mower blade types or categories. These blades use patented technology to sharpen themselves.
How Do You Know What Size of Lawn Mower Blade You Need?
The deck and blade sizes are typically specified as being the same across most riding or lawn mower models.
Thus, the simplest way is to check your mower deck size to determine blade size.
For example, if the lawn mower has a 42” or 46” cutting deck, the blades are normally labeled 42” or 46” tractor blade/similar language.
Otherwise, Check Out The Following 4 Steps To Determine The Right Lawn Mower Blade Size:
To determine the right lawn mower blade, consider factors such as:
- The type of grass you have,
- The terrain of your yard,
- The size of your mower deck.
Consider the make and model of the lawn mower. Then, compare the current blade to the specifications of your lawn mower or look up the owner’s manual for the lawn mower.
Measure the current blade/s to verify that you have the right blade type size on your mower:
- Measure the length diagonally from one cutting tip of the blade to its opposite cutting tip.
- Measure the width by calculating the widest and flattest part of the mower blade.
- Measure the center hole diameter based on the type of hole your mower blade has.
- Measure the center-to-center distance between the side holes on your current blade to find out the thickness.
- If your blade has outer holes, measure them accordingly.
After measuring the current blade, compare it with the specifications mentioned in the owner’s manual of your lawn mower. If it matches, search for a similar OEM or aftermarket option.
Or, if you find the process hard, consult a professional or manual for guidance.
How to Choose the Right Lawn Mower Blade?
The easiest way is:
- Identify the mower model,
- Locate the mower deck blade get the part number,
- Look for the OEM replacement option or best alternatives.
Check for a label on your mower to find out the details about the model parts number.
Generally, you will find such information on a sticker or plaque attached somewhere on your mower, such as on the handlebars, beneath the motor cover, or near the cutting deck.
Selecting a lawn mower blade requires consideration of the following factors:
Size of Lawn, Grass Terrain Types:
A larger lawn may require a bigger blade to cover more ground, while hilly terrain may require a blade with more lift to prevent scalping.
The impact will vary based on terrain types because Self-propelled mowers are ideal for hills and slopes, while low lift or flat blades are better for sandy terrain.Similarly, different types of grass require different blades.
For example, Bermuda grass requires a sharp blade, while St. Augustine requires a duller one.
So, determine your lawn length, terrain grass type before sorting out your options.
The Type of the Blade:
The blade size shape should match the size of your mower deck.In general, a larger blade will produce more power and operate better in dense grass.Different materials offer different degrees of durability, sharpness, and performance. Steel blades are usually more robust than plastic blades, but they are also heavier.So, choose a blade that is suitable for your mower’s model and type.
Engine Power of the Lawn Mower:
Choose a blade that fits the power output of your engine. Because some blades consume more power than others and these specific blades designed for higher horsepower mower engines won’t perform well on lower horsepower ones.
Frequency of Use Budget:
The frequency of using a mower helps to determine the level of importance placed on it. This information mainly guides you to decide whether you need a regular, a special, or a high-performance one.
Even the amount of money you are willing to spend will have a great influence on your purchasing decisions.
How Do You Measure A Mower Blade?
If you’re new and wondering how to measure your mower blade correctly, don’t worry since you can do it in 6 simple steps.
So, just follow the instructions thoroughly_
First, you need to measure the accurate length of the blade, and to do so, put your lawn mower blade on a flat surface.
Then, get a measurement tape and measure from one cutting tip to another cutting tip diagonally across your blade. Note the length measurement.
Step-2: Type of Center Hole
Next, you need to find out what type of center hole you have on your blade. See whether it’s a single circle or not and if it’s a single round one, measure the diameter of that hole.
If the hole looks like one of the above stars, a Rectangle, hourglass, Rounded Rectangle, or Double D shape, measure the number of the points that the star has. Or measure the width and length of the rectangle and take note of that measurement.
Step-3: Measure the Center Diameter
Now measure the Center diameter directly across the center hole.
Step-4: Check Similar Outer Hole
Some mower blades contain a series of outer holes in their body too. So, check whether you have similar outer holes on your mower blade or not.
If you have, simply estimate by measuring the center of the outer hole to the center of the opposite hole distance. Take note of the outer hole diameter.
After that, you need to calculate the widest and flattest portion of the mower blade to determine its width. Remember to measure from the center of your mower blade.
Step-6: Thickness Measuring
Lastly, you need to measure the thickness of your blade and it should be taken at the blade’s middle.
How Much Does A Mower Blade Cost?
The actual price of the particular blade will vary depending on the blade type, size, mower model or type, brand of the blade, the current pricing, and the local dealer or retailer rate.
But you can get an overall pricing concept of a lawn mower blade from the below chart:
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Is it possible to switch my lawnmower blade to a mulching blade?
Yes, most standard mower models are compatible to modify them with mulching blades. But verify it by checking your user manual.
Are all lawn mower blades interchangeable?
No, all blades are universal. So, some of them are not interchangeable.
Can you put any blade on a lawn mower?
No, you can’t do that since mower blades are not universal and they are more like mower model specific.
How long should a mower blade last?
Since most manufacturers suggest changing the mower blades after every 1 to 2 years, they must last one to a couple of years max.
What size bolt holds on the lawn mower blade?
It varies depending on the mower model or type, and blade type or size, but the standard sizes are 1/2-inch, 3/4-inch, and 5/8-inch.
What are the most popular Lawn Mower Blade brands?
The top five most popular lawn mower blade brands are:Maxpower CommercialToro MowerEGO Power Lawn MowerHonda Lawn MowerGator Fusion
What is the best material for a mower blade?
High-carbon, Boron, and Stainless Steels.
Greeting! I am Anthony Harry, a skilled scribe with a FOCUS on the art of lawn mowing and the beauty of all things green. My objective is to impart my knowledge and enthusiasm for lawn care to others, enabling them to attain their ideal lawns.
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Lawn Mower Blade to Custom Knife
Hi All, this is my first attempt at an Instructable so Комментарии и мнения владельцев and advice are more than welcome.
Now onto the project itself: I’m going to outline the steps I took in order to turn an old lawn mower blade into custom, one of a kind full tang Knives. This was my version of a trash to treasure as the two main materials are simply old lawn mower blades and some firewood I rescued, and I end up with beautiful knives.
I am a chemical engineer and making these knives during exams was my method of stress relief. I do most of the work by hand so it’s not perfect and is somewhat slow and tedious but I find the end product all the more satisfying. As some of the steps are quick to do but require some setup I normally make pairs of knives at a time, this saves time when doing heat treatment and grinding the blades.
My steps are all based off reading up on blacksmithing and playing around in my backyard so I’m sure I do some things in a very labor intensive way or not 100% correctly but the end product comes out looking amazing and has a properly hardened blade that hold an edge well. I also don’t mind some scratches on the blade as knives are tools and should be used and each scratch or flaw gives the blade some more character.
As a general disclaimer for the project it involves: Fire, Power Tools, and of course knives (I.E. lots of fun things). All steps will typically require some form of safety equipment including gloves, safety glasses, ear protection and work-boots. In my experience even while wearing safety gear and being careful you will still accumulate cuts, bruises and burns so a first aid kit can come in handy. The main thing with working in a shop is to pay attention to what your doing, be comfortable with the tools you are using and have common sense.
The Steps I will cover include:
- Materials and Tools.
- Lawn Mower Blade preparation.
- Blank Blade
- Initial Grind and Sanding
- Heat Treatment
- Clean-up and more Sanding
- Final Clean-up and polish.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
Tools: (Most of these are general workshop tools nothing too fancy).
- Safety gear, use what you think you need for each step.
- Angle Grinder with cutting blades.
- Bench Grinder.
- Drill and drill bits.
- Some files
- Wire Brush.
- Sanding Paper of various grits (150 all the way up too 1200)
- Hair Dryer (be careful of who you borrow it from as it may get cooked)
- Sharpening stone/oil stone.
Step 2: Lawn Mower Blade Preparation
You can get old blades when you replace them yourself or if you go to most places that sell new ones. The local hardware store was more than happy to let me grab a couple that were lying around in their workshop.
Not all lawn mower blades are created equal. When looking at the blades there are a couple things to pay attention too:
- Where the blades are damaged and how thick the metal is, you want at least one good region to cut the knife blade from.
- Where the serial numbers are on the blades, I find these add a cool one of a kind look to each blade.
- Whether or not the metal can be hardened, IE is there enough carbon in the steel for it to hold an edge.
Most lawn mower blades will require a good cleaning so use a steel brush and get to looking at the blade. Look for where it’s been damaged and why it needed replacing. Normally only the cutting edge is worn but there may be cracks or other damage to look out for. Also look at where serial numbers have been stamped into the metal as these are quite a cool feature to have in the end blade.
At this point you can get the metal nice and hot in the fire and use a hammer to get it as flat as possible, as a bonus any grass that was left on the blade will get burnt off. A normal wood fire with a hair dryer providing extra air gets hot enough to get metal red hot.
One of the key features you need to test for is whether or not the blade can be hardened. There are loads of articles and techniques for testing the metal and a quick google search can be a great help if you get stuck, I use a simple shatter test and skittering test. Basically all I do is light a fire get a corner of the metal red hot and dip it into either water or oil. First I do the water quench and once the metal is cooled down I hit it with a hammer and see if it shatters or just bends, this is a quick way to see if the metal can be hardened. If the metal shatters it’s a good metal to use, if it stays soft you can try a different section but the blade may be a dud. After the water test I test it again with cooking oil (sunflower oil), I typically cut off a small piece get it red hot and dip half of it in the oil, I then check if a Hacksaw or file is capable of cutting into it or scratching it (known as the skitter test as the file will just skitter along the surface). I test the side which was quench against the normal side and its quite easy to see if it hardened well. I use cooking oil to check as my actual blade quench is done with cooking oil.
Step 3: Blank Blade
Once you have found a good lawn mower blade it is time to decide on the type of knife you want. Spend a bit of time on this as there is no point making a cool new knife for yourself if you wont actually use it. I’m not the most creative person so I usually just google designs and look at pictures until I find something I like. Once you have a design in mind you should draw it out a couple times or find a knife template online too print.
Cut out your paper template and trace it onto the lawn mower blade, I use typex for this as it’s easy to see. I try to get the blades serial numbers onto the blade of the knife as a one of a kind sort of effect but this does limit me on the size of the knives I can make it also means I can only make one or two knives from each lawn mower blade.
Once your design is on the blade it is time to cut it out using an angle grinder. Try to cut as accurately as possible as this will be the shape of your knife, if you cut too much you will have an issue and if you cut it with a thick border you are just making more work for yourself when you grind it to shape. I like to have about 1-2 mm extra around the border at this makes sure that I will have a nice edge to grind smooth and clean off for the shaping of the blade.
Step 4: Initial Grind and Sanding
Now it’s time to turn you blank piece of metal into an actual blade!
First stick your template onto your blank blade, you could also mark out where you want the edge and such to be with a pen or typex but I find it easier to just stick the paper to the metal.
Now follow the template and grind the blade first too shape and then put the bevel onto it. I like to do this quite slowly as you can’t put metal back if you make a mistake! Also do this slowly and don’t over heat the metal, the simplest way of preventing this is to work bare handed and if the metal is too hot to hold cool it down in some water. Be warned it’s easy to over heat and damage the tip of the blade. You never want to see the blade get any blue spots or worse get red hot.
When grinding the edge don’t make it thinner than 1mm otherwise you run the risk of it cracking during heat treatment!
After grinding it’s time to begin sanding. This needs to be done now while the metal is still nice and soft, before the heat treatment. Use this time to clean up the edge of the blade, make sure the bevels are uniform and to do some general scratch removal from all exposed metal. Start with a course 150 grit and work your way up until you are happy with how the finish looks. I normally go up to a 600 or 800 grit as I get lazy and don’t really need a perfect mirror finish, I like a slightly more rustic look.
Also drill the holes for the metal pins to go through for the handle. It is easier to do it now than after the heat treatment.
Step 5: Heat Treatment
I do a differential heat treatment on my blades; basically you pack clay around the knife to control how fast it cools when you quench it, this allows you to have a hard edge which will stay sharp and a soft spine which increases durability.
The steps for heat treatment are:
- Normalizing the metal, this relieves stress and prevents warping. You need to heat up the blade until its no longer magnetic and the allow it to cool slowly. I normally skip this step as I’m careful during the grinding step.
- Next you harden the metal by heating it up until its no longer magnetic and quench it in oil or water. This changes the metals molecular structure and makes it hard but brittle.
- Finally you temper the blade by heating it up to about 180 degrees Celsius and keep it at this temperature for an hour to soften the metal allowing it to be more durable.
Those are the broad steps to follow though they will vary based off which metal is being treated. I do a differential heat treatment so I put clay onto the blade before the hardening step this changes how the metal cools in the quench and gives a blade that can hold and edge while also being durable.Once again I will refer you to google if you want to read up more on heat treatment processes. Put simply a thick layer of clay goes around the spine and half of the handle so, while the edge of the blade is left exposed is quenched so it is hardened.
When I put clay onto the blade I go about half way up the tang in order to leave a section of metal to hold onto with the pliers when I do the quench. When I quench the blade I only dip the section with clay on it into the oil and allow the rest of the tang to air cool, thus the tangs of the blades aren’t hardened and remain soft.
- Cover the blade with clay and allow it to dry, as wet clay will crack off during heating.
- Get your fire nice and hot, heat your blade until its red hot and is no longer magnetic.
- Quench the blade in cooking oil and crack off the clay, you can see the effect of the differential quench on how the blade looks in the one photo.
- Cook your blades in the oven at 180 degrees Celsius for an hour, I cooked a couple sweet potatoes to eat while I was at it.
- Examine your now heat treated blade in all its glory.
Step 6: Clean-up and Sanding
Now that your blade has been hardened it is time to clean it up and get it looking presentable. I do all this by hand so this step takes me the longest and it gets really tedious.
During the heat treatment a layer of rust will have formed on the blades surface you need to sand this off and sand the surface of the blade to the shine you want it at. So once again start with a grit and work your way up.
At this stage your blades edge is still about 1mm thick, so it is super blunt, and you will need to get it a whole lot sharper before you take it to an oil stone. The thing is you shouldn’t use a grinder now cause if you over heat the metal you will undo/mess up part of the heat heat treatment you just finished! Thus what I do is put some sand paper onto a tile and use this as an initial sharpening stone to work the edge until it’s thin enough for a real sharpening stone. Start at 150 grit and work your way up.
Depending on how you want your knife to look now is the time to get some polishing compound to buff out those last scratches and get your knife to a nice mirror finish. I don’t mind some scratches as they give the knife character and allows me to use the knife without worrying about damaging the finish.
Step 7: Sharpening
Once your blade is reasonably sharp it is time to sharpen it for real.
I use an oil stone to sharpen my knives but it really is a case of do it how you want to. Also I’m no expert on the best way to sharpen knives on oil stones so I will once again refer you to the all knowing google as there are loads of video tutorials on the subject.
On thing I have found is it is easier to sharpen the blade before you put the handle on it. Also once you have sharpened your blade wrap it in some form of tape as this makes it easier to handle while putting the handle on.
Step 8: Handles
I like like full tang knives where you can see the metal all the way through the handle, thus this is the finish I go for. You could alternately grind the handles metal down smaller and inlay it into the wood but I find it quite a labor intensive process.
Here is how I make may handles:
First I wrap tape around the blade as this prevents any glue or scratches getting onto the blade and makes it far easier to handle without getting cuts.
Next I have a piece of lead wood (scavenged from some firewood I came across) which I use to make the slots for the handles as it has a nice deep red color. I cut a couple slots of lead wood which are about 8mm thick and are large enough to cover the handles. These slots need to be slightly bigger than the handles and flat enough that they fit flush with the metal. I trace out the rough shape of the handle and cut the wood to shape with a fret saw. Make sure to label which side each piece of wood fits on. If there are any cracks in the wood you can use a wood filler or saw dust (from the wood itself) and super glue to make them disappear, my lead wood has a nice grain with tiny crack along it so I always have to fill in a couple spots.
I then cut some brass pins, slightly longer than necessary, and drill holes through the wood and handle. Make sure everything lines up perfectly as you don’t want to find that it doesn’t quite fit when you are epoxying it together. These pins are not 100% necessary as the epoxy creates a very strong bond, but they do make it slightly stronger and give a nice finish to the handle. Some people just use brash pins and flare the ends in order to hold the handles together but when I tried doing this all I managed to do was crack one of my handles.
Wash the blade with a bit of solvent (paraffin, turpentine, ethanol, acetone, etc) or in soapy water (rinse it off well) to make sure there is no oil on the blade handles. Then it is time to stick it all together.
Mix up some quick set clear epoxy and as fast as lightning smear epoxy onto both slots and into the pin holes before clamping the handle together to set. I use quick set epoxy as I always have some lying around but you do have to work fast with it as you only have about 5 minutes of working time with it. I also find that clear epoxy leaves a better finish on the knife than grey/metal epoxy.
Once the epoxy has set solid (24hrs at least, to fully cure), it’s time to make the rough handle shape into something nice to hold. As the lead wood I use is incredibly hard I simply take the whole thing to my grinder to get it to as close to comfy as possible, I also use the grinder to get the pins to sit flush with the wood. Once the handle is sort of to shape I use files and sanding paper to get a nice smooth finish that sits well in my hand.
Once you have a nice comfy handle check that there are no cracks and if there are fill them in and give it a quick sanding so it matches nicely.
Now that the handles are shaped finish the wood in whatever means you personally enjoy using. I like a raw wood feel so I just give the handles several coatings of a mixture of beeswax and teak oil. The handles come out with a deep red colour and fit comfortably in the hand, also after some use its easy to re-oil the handles.
Step 9: Final Clean-up and Polish
Its time to pull off the tape on the blades and look at your almost complete knives.
All that is left to do is a final polishing of the blade, a quick touch up with a sharpening stone, re-oil the handle and maybe make a sheath for your new knife.
I used a bit of leather to form a couple rough sheaths just to store my knives in and I’m still looking around to find some thicker leather to make a proper belt sheath.
You now have an awesome one of a kind knife which makes a perfect gift to any outdoors enthusiast or knife which has a cool backstory to it.
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The Best Lawn Mower Blade Replacements You Can Buy
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Choosing the right lawn mower for your yard isn’t enough; you need the right type of lawn mower blades for the specific job intended. Manufacturers normally indicate and recommend what type of blades will fit the lawn mower.
Blades don’t last forever. They are chipped, dent bent and damaged when hitting obstacles. Damaged blades should be replaced. The quality of the cut depends on the condition and sharpness of the blade. While some blades can be sharpened to bring back their usefulness, if the blade is damaged there’s not much you can do to avoid buying a new one.
How Do You Know if A Blade Fits Your Model of Lawn Mower?
The holes on the lawn mower that attaches the blade, and the blade measurements, as well as the blade serial number, are important factors to consider when replacing mower blades. The following measurements should indicate if the blade fits the mower.
Lawn Mower Measurements:
- Number of Holes: The blade normally has one to three holes for attaching it to the lawn mower. The number of holes together with the shape and size must be similar to the lawn mower fittings.
- Hole Shapes: Generally, the center holes are 5-point star shaped with round holes to the side. Some blade holes could be rectangular shaped, or the star could have seven points instead of five.
- Hole Sizes: In addition to the shape of the hole, it’s important to measure the size of the holes. Two measurements should be taken, the inside size and the outer size of the whole. Replacement blades include washers to adapt the whole shapes and sizes for different mowers blades.
- Distances between outer holes: An important measurement is the distance between the wholes. These measurements are taken from the center of the two outside side holes.
Overall Blade Measurements:
- Length: Too long blades won’t fit the lawn mower, and too short blades won’t cut as effectively.
- Width: ¼ to 4 ¼ inches. The blade length has a greater effect on how the blade fits than the width. For optimum performance, however, choose a replaceable blade setwith the same width as the original blade.
- Thickness: 1/10 to 1/3 inch
Once you have these numbers, you are ready to start researching a replacement. Here are some picks for some great lawn mower aftermarket blades you can buy to get your old mower cutting like new!
Best Lawn Mower Blade
Best Universal Walk-Behind Replacement
If you have a 21″ or 22″ deck, this is likely the replacement lawn mower blade for you.
The Arnold 21” Deluxe Detaching blade fits most walk behind lawnmowers with 21-22” decks from the following manufacturers: AYP/EHP/Craftsman, Bolens, Honda, Huskee, Husqvarna, Lawn-Boy, MTD, Murray, Poulan, Snapper, Toro, Troy-Bilt, Yard Machines and Yard-Man
There are three holes for fitting to the mower: a center 5point star-shaped with two round holes on each side. Washer adaptors are shaped to fit and attached to different shaped mower holes.
The versatile blade cuts, mulches, bags, dethatches, and scalps too.
The tough.17” nylon lines are replaceable. Included in the package with the blade and hardware pack is the detachable line.
Weight:.8 lbs. Length: 21” Thickness:.170” Mulching: Yes Deck Size:21-22”
Built For Mulching With Riding Mowers
The MaxPower mulching blade will fit 42” lawn mower decks of AYP, Craftsman, Husqvarna, and Poulan models. These blades are inexpensive and the two blades you need for your riding mower, will possibly cost you less than one original blade.
The blades are designed for mulching and does a great job. Some reviewers found that it mulched finer than their previous mower blades at half the price.
Weight:1.94 lbs. Length: 21” Width: 2.25”
Mulching: Yes Deck Size: 42”
Solid Replacement For Star-Hole Blades
The five-point star center hole fits nicely on a Craftsman, Husqvarna, or Poulan walk behind mower. The blade fits snugly, and the holes could fit other brands too.
Already sharpened, the blade is ready to use when purchased. Some customers have found it to cut better than the original blade. That’s a nice surprise when something so cheap helps you cut your grass better and faster!
The blade is made in the U.S.A. to meet or exceed OEM specifications.
Weight: 2.6 lbs. Length:22” Width:2.5”
Mulching: Yes Deck Size: 22”
USA Mower Blades
A set of 2 blades that fits onto a 42” deck size riding lawn mower including certain AYP, Craftsman, Husqvarna, and Poulan models. The side holes are 3/8 inches with a 5-point star opening in the center. As the name indicates, the USA Mower Blades are made in the USA. The competitive pricing gives you the option to replace the piece instead of having the old blades sharpened.
The high lift avoids clogging when cutting dense grass. The already sharpened blades are well-balanced to give a clean cut and mulch clippings and leaves.
Weight: 4 lbs. Length:21” Width: 2.25”
Thickness:.150” Mulching: Yes Deck Size: 42”
Sturdy Walk-Behind 21″ Mulching Mower Blade
The dual beveled designed of the MaxPower mower blades are made for better mulching. The sharp blades cut clippings in small pieces creating a natural fertilizer for the lawn. Although the blades are made in the USA, the blades may bend if hit against rocks and tree roots. That’s a good reason not to hit wood while mowing!
Blade dimensions fit various 21” deck walking mowers. This single blade set should fit AYP, Sears Craftsman, Husqvarna, and Poulan models. Check with the manufacturer if you are in doubt.
Our Pick For High Lift Blades
The high lift of the Rotary lawn mower blades is designed to throw the clippings better, resulting in less clogging. It is therefore ideal to use for bagging. Although not designed to mulch, the set of 3 blades have similar dimensions and holes to replace mulching blades.
Blades are sharp and sturdy. The high lift creates a stronger suction power that cuts tall grass cleanly. No need to go over the same piece with the mower.
The center 5-star hole fits various 48” deck riding lawn mowers like the Craftsman, Husqvarna, and Poulan.
Weight:2 lbs. Length:16 ¾ “ Width:2.5”
Thickness:.204” Mulching: No Deck Size: 48”
What’s the difference between Standard Mower Blades and Mulching Blades?
Standard blades also called 2-in-1 blades or regular blades and are commonly used on non-mulching lawn mowers for side dispatching or bagging. When adding a mulching kit to the mower, you should replace the standard blades with blades designed for mulching.
Designed for a cleaner cut with greater airflow, these standard straight blades push the cut grass back on the lawn or into a bag attached to the mower.
Three-in-one blades or mulching blades are blades that cut and mulch the grass. These blades mulch the cut crass into smaller clippings that can be bagged or left on the lawn as a natural fertilizer. The clippings are small enough to let air, water, and nutrients through.
How do High Lift, Medium Lift, and Low Lift Blades Work?
The lift of the blade pulls the grass into the deck and out of the side discharge or bagging. The lift is also what causes circulation suction for mulching purposes. The lift is measured by the degree of the upturned blade edge.
Side discharge lawn mowers will use low lift blades with a ¾ inch or less cutting edge. The low suction power keeps cut grass low so that it may be swept through the side discharge. Low lift blades work well in cutting short or dry grass and on sandy soil preventing unnecessary suction of sand into the deck.
High lift lawn mower blades cause a stronger fan suction power under the mower that pushes the cut grass into the bag. Due to the suction power, the high lift blades require stronger mower engine horsepower than the other blades. The more vertical blade design with 1 to 1 3/16 inches cutting edge will cut tall and compact grass efficiently.
Standard blades are normally medium lift blades with a cutting edge between ¾ and 15/16 inches that rotate horizontally. These blades need less horsepower than the high lift blades. Mulching blades, however, have curved surfaces enabling it to cut and mulch the grass.
What Material Are Mower Blades Made Of?
The material used to make lawn mower blades vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The blades are hard enough to mow the lawn but probably too soft to make a knife blade.
Generally, lawn mower blades are crafted from metal like high-carbon nickel allow steel. The metal isn’t so hard that it breaks and shatters into pieces when it hits a stone, tree stump or other obstacles. It is softer and safer, designed to bend rather than break.
Blades are also made from plastic which will bend and break easier than a steel mower blade. Plastic blades are fixed to a plastic cutting disc whereas metal blades are attached to the drive shaft.