Lawn mower engine clutch. How Do You Know If A Lawn Mower Clutch Is Bad

How Do You Know If A Lawn Mower Clutch Is Bad?

I’m sure you’ll agree with me that owning a lawnmower comes with tons of amazing benefits. In case you don’t know, one of the many benefits attached to that is that it allows you to mow your lawn regularly, and doing that can make you achieve a stronger lawn. However, owning a mower isn’t without its issues.

A lawnmower can always develop issues unexpectedly; an example of that is when its clutch becomes defective. Sadly, this can become very annoying if you’re not aware of the issue.

There are several different warning signs that you’ll get to understand that your lawn mower’s clutch is defective. For instance, one of the symptoms is when you keep experiencing a hard or sticky clutch. When engaging your lawnmower clutch, if you encounter high engine rev, this could also be a warning sign.

Do lawn mowers have clutches? How exactly do lawn mower clutches work? What are the warning signs that you’ll get to understand that a lawn mower clutch is bad? These and more are the frequently asked questions that you’ll get answers to as you read through the rest of this article.

Do lawn mowers have clutches?

Yes, lawnmowers, be it electric or gas, are usually equipped with clutches. Usually called “power take-off (PTO) clutch,” an electric lawn mower clutch is the component responsible for engaging the blades.

When a PTO clutch engages the lawnmower blades, what happens is that it’ll stop the blades from spinning when the engine is still running. Since that’s the case, it means that the lawnmower clutch is the safety component of the farm equipment.

Furthermore, the function of an electric mower clutch also extends to transferring the engine energy to the drive train.

How exactly do lawn mower clutches work?

As earlier mentioned, the PTO clutch is the safety component of your lawnmower. The primary function of the component is to engage the blade, stopping it from spinning when the engine is running. The clutch does that by transferring the energy from the lawnmower engine to the drive train.

Here’s how a PTO clutch works; it’s connected to two drive shafts inside the electric mower. The clutch works together with these shafts to secure your lawnmower when the engine is running.

In case you don’t know, the PTO clutch comes with a couple of basic components. For instance, it has a pulley, which you can always find on the housing brace of the machine. over, the pulley is designed in a way that allows it to spin easily around the housing brace of the lawnmower.

Here’s the thing; when the power to the PTO clutch switches off, the magnetic energy releases control of the rotating coil of the electric mower. When this happens, the springs controlling the rotation of the coil force the coil back against the brake.

It’s the brake that stops the PTO pulley, which in turn stops the blades from spinning. The working principle of a power take-off (PTO) clutch is no doubt complicated. For a clearer understanding of how the component works, you can watch this video.

What are the warning signs to know that a lawn mower clutch is bad?

The lawnmower clutch is, no doubt, one of the essential safety components of the farm equipment. Since that’s the case, it’s very important to understand the signs that come with having a bad clutch.

As previously mentioned, there exist several warning signs to know that the lawnmower clutch is faulty or bad. Let’s have a quick look at a couple of them below:

Do you keep experiencing a hard clutch every time you try to operate your lawnmower? If yes, you need to understand that this could be a warning sign that your PTO clutch is defective.

A power take-off clutch is designed to engage the lawnmower blades. However, if the component is hard, it’ll become pretty difficult for you to operate for both engagement and disengagement.

If you also experience high engine rev every time you try to engage the clutch, this could be a sign that your lawn mower clutch is defective. Yes, it could be that the machine has a worn friction plate.

How to Create a Go Kart with a Lawnmower Engine

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Though go-karts traditionally use horizontal mount engines, with a little modification, you can install a vertical shaft lawnmower engine to be the driving force behind your homemade racing machine. Taste again the speed, freedom, and exhilaration of the open road when you convert your lawnmower engine into the go-kart you’ve always wanted.

Removing a Lawn Mower Engine

  • It’s best to drain the oil from an engine when it’s slightly warm, as the heat allows for a faster flow than when cold.

Drain the gas. Loosen the fuel hose clamp before you start draining your fuel. You can do so by tracing the route of the fuel hose from the engine to the base of the gas tank. Notice where the hose attaches to your lawn mowers carburetor. [2] X Research source Using your pliers, squeeze the clamp loose and slide it upwards on the hose. Now you can detach the hose and drain your fuel into a bucket.

Locate the throttle linkage. You can usually find the throttle linkage beneath the carburetor. There will be a cable that should connect to the throttle, and by removing the screw that holds the cable in place, you can easily remove the throttle linkage. [3] X Research source

Find the starter. This part is on the side of the engine and will have the shape of a small can. [4] X Research source Electric-start lawn mowers will have a red battery cabled attached. Use a wrench to unfasten the cable from the starter.

Remove necessary nuts and bolts. At the base of your mower engine is the mower house, which is where the engine is seated normally. Using your wrench on the bolt and another to hold still the nut below the mower house, unscrew the bolts holding your engine in place.

Take off the drive belt. You will find the drive belt on pulley on the crankshaft beneath the engine. Incline the engine slightly forward and pull the drive belt from its pulley. [5] X Research source

Remove the engine. Taking the engine firmly with both hands, lift the engine from the mower house and place it carefully off to the side in a safe place.

Preparing to Install

  • Larger engines in the 13 to 22 horsepower range, which you can find on riding mowers, may destroy the transmission or kart. [7] X Research source

Pick a suitable go-kart frame. You will want one that can support both your vertical shaft engine and lawnmower gearbox comfortably. Your gearbox should will need to have non-trans axle set-up.

  • Most frames have a width that varies between 1/3 and 2/3’s the wheelbase of your go-kart, with wider models giving better stability. [8] X Research source

Assembling the Frame

  • Always use proper protective gear when welding. Failing to do so can result in significant harm to yourself.

Put in a floor. A 16 gauge sheet metal piece should be sufficient for the floor of your kart. Using your plans from earlier, drill holes in the sheet for the fastening bolts for your seat.

Weld a brace for your seat. You should brace both outer sides of the go kart frame with flat, 3/16 gauge steel. This is where you will install the bench for your seat.

Assembling the Steering Column, Tabs, and Spindle Brackets

Cut and install you steering column. You should cut a section of 3/4 x 11 gauge tubing and weld it to your steering tabs. Insert an additional 1 spacer loosely by the shaft near the steering hoop, grinding the shaft slightly near the hoop if too tight. Drill a three hole pattern with the holes equidistant from the center of the washer at the end of your shaft.

Add resting tabs for brake and throttle. These 2 long 3/8 diameter tabs keep your pedals in their resting and full forward positions. The closest tab to the center of the frame should be fixed a max of 1/2 after the crosswise piece your to which your steering column is attached. The second tab should be installed 1 3/8 after the first tab.

Attach spindle brackets. You will weld these to the front axle of your go-kart. The spindle should have a 1 clearance above the front axle.

Give yourself a foot rest. Use a 3/8 rod in a vise to bend it with a hammer into the shape of your passenger footrest if applicable. This will keep your feet from resting on tie rods.

Don’t forget your brake Band stud. This stud will serve as the pivot for your brake Band. Weld a 3/8 round bar to the frame 1 1/2 after your axle.

Assembling Motor Mount, Brake Rod, and Accessories

  • The motor mount should be welded as the final step to building your kart.
  • Your mount should be able to hold your lawn mower engine in the horizontal position.

Attach the throttle cable guide tab. About 4 away from the middle of the throttle pedal bolt hole, weld this tab to your kart on a 45 degree angle.

Put in the brake rod guide tab. Take your brake rod and insert it through the tab, bending it to adjust it to the brake Band. Next, take the tab with the rod inserted and weld it to the kart.

Bend your brake rod into shape. Bend this 1/4 round rod so that it angles to meet your brake pedal assembly. Cut the length of your brake rod as needed, and weld eyelets to the rod with a return spring installed brake pedal.

Give yourself a seat. Many go-kart kits do not bolt seats directly to the kart. If this is the case for you, use a simple frame and bolt this into the seat braces. Your seat should be cut at a 37.5 degree angle for a 105 degree incline for your backrest.

Weld motor mount and attach accessory parts. Having finished with the body of your go-kart, you can now weld the mount to your frame. Upon completing your weld, you can add tires, seat padding, and all other necessary hardware to your vehicle.

Installing the Vertical Motor and Gearbox

Bolt down both motor and gearbox to the mount. The location of your motor is not as important as that of the gearbox. [9] X Research source To properly install your gearbox, align it with the gear on the rear axle, and then bolt it into place.

Change the sprocket size for the gearbox. A sprocket is a gear toothed wheel inside your gearbox that controls the gear ratio for your transmission, which is another name for the gearbox. Your target gear will be about 16 teeth.

Attach a throttle cable to throttle linkage on carburetor. Now you can clean off any residual oil from your kart, but do so with care. Always allow for sufficient time for the materials you are working on to cool, like the engine or solder, before using a cleaner.

Community QA

Speed mostly depends on three factors, engine RPM, tire size, and gear ratio. So that question is not easily answered. Most 5-7 HP yard go-karts go 17-35 mph, with 25 mph being common. 8-13 HP go-karts with torque converters and large tires top out at around 40 mph. Race karts can go much faster as they use modified or two stroke engines that rev higher, so you could see speeds of 50-60 mph in those. Enduro and high end race karts can go much much faster.

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As long as the engine is from a decent brand (and therefore good quality), it won’t explode out of nowhere. You’d really need to damage it to make it explode.

Thanks! We’re glad this was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. As a small thank you, we’d like to offer you a 30 gift card (valid at GoNift.com). Use it to try out great new products and services nationwide without paying full price—wine, food delivery, clothing and more. Enjoy! Claim Your Gift If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even 1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow

Thanks! We’re glad this was helpful. Thank you for your feedback. As a small thank you, we’d like to offer you a 30 gift card (valid at GoNift.com). Use it to try out great new products and services nationwide without paying full price—wine, food delivery, clothing and more. Enjoy! Claim Your Gift If wikiHow has helped you, please consider a small contribution to support us in helping more readers like you. We’re committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even 1 helps us in our mission. Support wikiHow

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What is the Blade Brake Clutch on a lawn Mower? Guide to Replace Repair

The blade brake clutch is a safety feature on your lawnmower. While it is a great idea to purchase one, it is first important to understand how it works.

What is the purpose of a blade brake clutch?

A lawn mower equipped with a blade brake clutch offers an additional feature that is not found in regular mowers. So what is a blade brake clutch on a lawn mower?

The blade brake clutch allows the operator to disengage the mower blade rotation without stopping the engine. This comes in handy when you need to cross the gravel or a paved path, empty the mower bag or wish to stop mowing to remove some obstacles on the way. A mower with a blade brake clutch saves you from switching off the mower and starting the engine again and again during a single session.

How to operate the blade brake clutch?

The process of operating the blade brake clutch is similar in most mower models. Here are the steps to follow:

  • Start the mower engine.
  • The throttle should be adjusted to the highest setting.
  • The stop button is usually found on the right-hand side. Push and hold this button to stop the blade.
  • Now pull the lever used for blade control towards the direction of the mower handle and hold it in its place.
  • To engage the blade, release the blade stop button.
  • These actions enable the rotation of the mower blade.
  • To immediately stop the blade rotation, release the blade control lever. This will trigger the blade brake clutch.

While it is Smart to buy a lawn mower with a blade brake clutch for added safety, you should be well aware of how this additional feature works.

If the blade break clutch starts to make a noise, this signal of a mechanical malfunction. Immediately stop using the blade brake clutch.

Before you resume your routine mowing, delve deep and find out the reason for the noise. An improper operation may also create noise. It is important to educate yourself about it and take the necessary steps.

What are the different kinds of noises that a blade brake clutch makes?

You may hear various kinds of noises that may arise because of a mowers blade brake clutch problem. Anything different from the usual noise should be taken seriously.

Here we list down a few common noises that a blade brake clutch could explain the possible reason for the same.

  • Clanking or rattling sound may indicate a broken or a loose part that is hitting against the various metal components in the mower.
  • A squalling noise may either indicate that the blade brake clutch parts need lubrication or that some parts may have worn out or may have shifted from their original position.
  • A grinding noise usually is a warning of a metal rubbing against another metal.

Repairing and Assembly of the Blade Brake Clutch

There are varied designs of the blade brake clutch manufactured by different manufacturers. In most cases, it consists of a couple of drums or plates that get together when the clutch is engaged. A linkage brings the clutch sides together, and a brake is used to stop the blade. This is also where the problem usually starts.

Most issues are found in the blade clutch linkage that is used to engage the clutch. The cables and springs could break, or the bracket could bend. The clutch drum and plates could wear after sometime when it starts to slip not locking well together. The blade brake wears, causing a slight drift in the blade even though the clutch is not engaged.

There are varied designs, so the repair steps differ widely. Here are some standard steps that should be followed:

  • Get access to the clutch and inspect it. This can be found above the blade and under the mower.
  • You will notice a cover on the clutch. Remove this.
  • Some clutches are self-contained, where you can remove the clutch and the linkage as a single unit. The others could have the clutch located under the deck.
  • The linkage is spread across the mower deck. There are some components placed under and some above the deck.
  • To diagnose the issue, spot any missing or broken springs, power, or metal savings that indicates metal on metal wear. There could be misaligned or loose parts.
  • Once you diagnose the problem, the repair involves removing and replacing the worn or broken parts.

It is an overwhelming task to repair a blade brake clutch which is best left to an expert unless you are a mechanically inclined operator.

Problem with the break blade clutch cable

If there is trouble with the engagement of the lawnmower’s blade, then this could be because of a faulty cable.

The cable is attached between the blade clutch and the blade bail. It is made of a metal cable with a plastic sheath, cast metal ends, and one or two mounting brackets. The majority of the problem with the engagement cable arises because of the metal cable itself.

The cast end which connects the cable to the clutch and the bail is prone to severe breakage after many years of use. The steel cable could break or fray, which is accelerated because of rust.

There could also be an issue with the cable kink, which occurs when the cable gets snagged on a fence or a shrub. The metal cable that is kinked does not slide smoothly through the plastic sheath that makes the operation finicky, not letting the cable move. Suppose the steel cable gets corroded or rusted. In that case, it seizes inside the plastic sheath, which is commonly seen in mowers that are kept exposed to the weather elements. Water seeps inside the plastic sheath, and with no easy escape, it starts to corrode and rust the clutch.

To replace a blade engagement cable

  • Remove any mounts attached and cut the cable ties that secure the mowers handle and the cable.
  • Thread the cast end out from the hole and remove the cable.
  • Now remove the next end of the cable from the blade clutch. For this, you will have to top the mower to one side. The carburetor should face up when you tip the mower so that there is no fuel spillage.
  • There could be a few covers on the underside. Remove them so that the clutch can be accessed.
  • Once you access it, just remove the cast cable end and replace it with a new cable following the steps above in reverse order.
  • Replace the covers that you have removed, install the new cable ties that hold the cable in place securely, adjust the cable as required, and the task is done.
  • You may not have to adjust all the blade engagement cables, but if you have to, then check the rotating adjuster or the clamping bracket to ensure proper adjustment.
  • Refer to the manual to understand the proper procedure for adjustment.

Replacing the blade brake clutch

The clutch does wear off with time and would eventually need adjustment or replacing to get it back to its proper working condition. An expert will diagnose the clutch for which he will need to disassemble the mower. The condition will be closely inspected to see if it can be repaired or needs to be replaced.

If several components are broken that restrict the clutch from rotating, there is no option but to replace it. In such a case, refer to the owner’s manual to cross-check the replacement part number should you need a new clutch.

There is some blade brake clutch which is a single pre-assembled unit. It saves the mechanic from removing and replacing various parts. Replacement is the only option if there are issues with this model of blade brake clutch.

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Ensure that you buy the right assemble for the mower model and tighten the component securely before starting the mower and taking it on a test run.

Conclusion

A mower with a blade brake clutch is a Smart purchase. The clutch is placed under the engine that is attached to a crankshaft. The crankshaft runs right through the center of the brake clutch and a belt attached to the clutch and powers the blade once it starts to rotate. The clutch does not let the mower blade spin even though the engine is running, thus giving complete control to the operator.

Knowing its integral parts and the proper operational procedures of a blade brake clutch lets you be aware of any signs of breakage, enabling you to make the right decision of either replacing or repairing it.

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