Lawn mower engine revving. How to Repair Small Engines

Is Buying an Electric Lawn Mower in 2023 Worth It? Here Are the Pros and Cons

Compared to gas-powered lawn mowers, electric models are cleaner, quieter and greener.- but there are some drawbacks.

Macy Meyer is a N.C. native who graduated from UNC-Chapel Hill in 2021 with a B.A. in English and Journalism. She currently resides in Charlotte, N.C., where she has been working as an Editor I, covering a variety of topics across CNET’s Home and Wellness teams, including home security, fitness and nutrition, Smart home tech and more. Prior to her time at CNET, Macy was featured in The News Observer, The Charlotte Observer, INDY Week, and other state and national publications. In each article, Macy helps readers get the most out of their home and wellness. When Macy isn’t writing, she’s volunteering, exploring the town or watching sports.

• Macy has been working for CNET for coming on 2 years. Prior to CNET, Macy received a North Carolina College Media Association award in sports writing.

For decades, lawn mowers were gas-guzzling and emissions-spouting beasts that were hard to pull-start and loud enough to wake up the neighborhood. But a new generation of electric-powered models is changing the lawn care game.

Though gas-powered models still dominate the aisles of big-box stores, a growing number of affordable electric mowers now provide a compelling alternative, whether your priority is power, convenience or sustainability. If you’re in the market, you have more options than ever.- and the best electric mowers are now good enough to rival their gas-powered competitors. We’ll break down the pros and cons of electric and gas mowers to help guide your buying decision.

Pro: Electric lawn mowers are quieter

Lawn mowers are loud. While standard gas-powered mowers usually operate at 95 decibels.- equivalent to the racket made by a motorcycle revving its engine.- electric mowers max out at around 75 decibels on average, closer to the din of a washing machine. If you live in a neighborhood, an electric mower is the less disruptive option.

Con: Shorter run times

Once you start mowing, you want the job done in one fell swoop.- but that might not be possible with an electric lawn mower, especially if you have a significant plot of land. Electric models top out at between 45 to 60 minutes per charge, which should be enough to handle up to half an acre of grass.

Some electric mowers, like this corded Sun Joe hover model will provide unlimited mowing time, as long as you have a power source or long enough extension cord. Most electric models run on batteries, however, and offer run times ranging from 20 to 45 minutes. If it takes you longer to mow your yard, that’s going to be a problem.- or a delay, at least, while you recharge. You can keep a second battery on hand, but that’ll require an additional purchase.

Pro: Easier to maneuver and less maintenance

A gas-powered mower requires periodic maintenance, including the eventual replacement of a spark plug, oil filter and air filter. Electric mower components, however, require less regular servicing, which should increase your savings over the long term. In this way, an electric model can be more economical than a gas-powered counterpart.

Most electric mowers are also relatively lightweight, making them easier to navigate across your lawn and maneuver around tight corners. Our top electric pick, the EGO Power Plus, weighs 62.6 pounds.- making it considerably lighter than the Craftsman M250, which weighs in at a hefty 90 pounds. Though the self-propelled engine improves maneuverability when you’re cutting the grass, the mower is still heavy to push.

Pro: Better for the environment

Gasoline-powered engines produce a surprising amount of carbon emissions and a slew of pollutants. According to the California Air Resources Board, one hour of mowing generates the same pollution as driving a car for 300 miles. And the Environmental Protection Agency says that gas lawn mowers contribute the majority of non-road-related air pollution generated nationwide.

Electric lawn mowers are a much cleaner, energy-efficient alternative. The Electric Power Research Institute notes that if we replaced half the gas-powered lawn mowers with electric models, it would reduce the same amount of emissions as removing 2 million vehicles from the road. This is certainly an important factor to consider when purchasing a new mower.

Con: Electric lawn mowers aren’t as powerful

Lawn mower power is measured by a torque rating, which quantifies the driving force behind the blade’s rotation. The higher the torque rating, the more powerful the chopping motion.- and the less likely the mower is to get stuck or caught up on a clump of grass or other obstruction.

The average electric lawn mower has between 2 and 2.5 pound-feet of torque. The average of a gas-powered mower is between 4.5 and 8.75 pound-feet, which is about three times more power. This means a gas-powered mower will make it easier to tackle challenging terrain like hills and dips and slants in your yard. And homeowners with larger lawns or yards with hills or slopes may require heavier duty equipment like a riding lawn mower. While most riding lawn mowers are gas-powered, there are electric ones on the market, like this Ryobi model.

Pro: They can be less expensive

If you’re in the market for a new mower, a basic electric mower is less expensive than a basic gas mower.

Electric models can start as low as about 100, the price for the Sun Joe hover model tested by CNET experts, but that’s a particularly low-priced outlier. Most push-from-behind electric models can cost anywhere from 250 to 550.

for gas-powered mowers can start at around 200-250. But the most popular lawn mower brands have basic gas-powered models that fall into the 400 to 1,00 price range. Certain gas riding lawn mowers can even reach up to 2,500.

Final thoughts

Overall, the lawn mower market continues to expand, with an array of diverse offerings. For homeowners with larger yards, gas-powered mowers may still be the best fit, since they have the durability and power to tackle bigger lawns with ease. That’s if you’re comfortable with the environmental impact gas mowers have.

If you want to maintain a midsize yard, reduce your carbon footprint (and even save some money) in the process, then an electric lawn mower is probably the best for your needs. Either route you take can help you gain a healthy-looking lawn that boosts the curb appeal and value of your home.

How to Repair Small Engines

Small gas engines serve us in many ways. They power lawn mowers, tillers, cultivators, trimmers, edgers, snowblowers, chain saws, pumps, generators, air compressors, and other useful home tools. They also power our fun: outboard boats, snowmobiles, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, ultralight aircraft, and other toys. To keep them operating efficiently, an owner of these tools and toys should know about small engines: how they work and what to do when they don’t.

Small gas engines are made up of individual systems that work together to produce power. Each system has many components. Internal combustion gasoline-powered engines require six systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. In this article, we will discuss the systems and components that make small engines work.

Fuel and Exhaust

The fuel and exhaust systems are critical to operation. They furnish the fuel for combustion and remove exhaust gases. The following are components of a fuel and exhaust system.

Gasoline: Gasoline is a combustible liquid that burns relatively slowly. However, when sprayed as a mist and mixed with air, it is quite explosive. All it needs is a spark. Two-stroke engines require that oil be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate internal parts. Four-stroke engines use a fuel-air mixture.

Fuel Tank: The fuel tank stores fuel in preparation for mixing by the carburetor and use by the engine. Some fuel tanks are pressurized with air to help deliver fuel to the carburetor. Other tanks are non-pressurized and depend on a fuel pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor.

Fuel Line: Fuel is moved from the tank to the pump and/or carburetor through a fuel line. Pressurized fuel systems often have a squeeze bulb in the fuel line for building pressure.

Filter: A carburetor jet has a small opening that can easily become clogged. A fuel filter traps dirt and sediment from the gas before it is delivered to the carburetor.

Pump: A fuel pump produces a vacuum that pulls the fuel from an unpressurized tank, then delivers it to the carburetor.

Carburetor: The carburetor has one job: to mix the correct proportion of gasoline and air for the engine. Too much gasoline in the mixture makes it rich; too little gas makes it lean.

Throttle: The throttle controls the amount of fuel-air mixture that enters the engine from the carburetor. The throttle thus controls the speed of the engine.

Primer: A primer injects a small amount of gasoline into the carburetor throat to make the initial fuel-air mixture rich. A primer is used to help start a cold engine.

Choke: Some engines control the richness of the fuel-air mixture at startup by controlling the air rather than the fuel. A choke reduces the amount of air in the fuel-air mixture.

Governor: A governor is a device that automatically opens the engine’s throttle when more power is needed and closes it when the load is light.

Muffler: Small gas engines, especially two-stroke engines, are noisy when they operate. A muffler reduces the sound of the exhaust gases by passing them through baffles.

Spark Arrestor: A spark can exit the exhaust port of a small gas engine, potentially starting a fire on nearby combustibles. A spark arrestor on the exhaust port can reduce the chances of such a fire. Spark arrestors are especially important on chain saws, motorcycles, and all-terrain vehicles operated in dry woodlands.

Ignition

The ignition is a primary system within all small gas engines. It produces and delivers the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture to cause combustion. No spark means no combustion, which means your engine doesn’t run. Below are the components found in small engine ignition systems. Some systems will include breaker point ignitions while others depend on solid-state ignitions.

Magneto-Powered Ignition System: A magneto uses magnetism to supply electricity in ignitions where there is no battery. The magneto is turned by the crankshaft, which rotates when the manual recoil starter is pulled. The three types of magneto ignition systems are mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled.

Battery-Powered Ignition System: If your small engine includes a battery for starting, the ignition coil will also use it to supply spark to the spark plugs. A battery stores electrical energy until needed. Battery ignition systems also use mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled ignitions.

Mechanical-Breaker Ignitions: High-voltage electricity must be sent to the spark plug at the appropriate time. In mechanical-breaker ignitions, this job is performed through the contact points and a condenser.

Points: As the crankshaft rotates, a cam opens and closes a set of contact points. These points function as an on/off switch: Closed is on, and open is off.

Condenser: Because the spark moving across points can damage their surfaces, the condenser stores voltage to reduce arcing between points.

Capacitor-Discharge Ignitions (CDI): A capacitor is a large condenser. A CDI stores and delivers voltage to the coil using magnets, diodes, and a capacitor

Transistor-Controlled Ignitions (TCI): Transistors are electronic controllers. A TCI uses transistors, resistors, and diodes to control the timing of the spark.

Coil: An ignition coil is simply two coils of wire wrapped around an iron core. The coil changes low voltage (6 or 12 volts) into the high voltage (15,000 to 30,000 volts) needed by the spark plug.

Spark Plug: A spark plug is an insulated electrode that is screwed into the top of the engine cylinder. High-voltage timed electricity from the magneto travels by wire to the spark plug. The base of the plug has an air gap of about 0.030 inch (30 thousandths of an inch), which the current must jump.

Wires: The primary wire from the coil to the breaker point and secondary wire from the coil to the spark plug(s) deliver electricity to the ignition components.

Distributor: A distributor is an ignition system for engines with more than one cylinder and spark plug. It distributes the spark to the appropriate cylinder using a rotor, cap, and individual spark plug wires.

Combustion

The combustion system of a small gas engine is where the work gets done. Components of the combustion system include the cylinder block, cylinder head, camshaft, valves, piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, timing gears, and flywheel. To better understand small gas engines, let’s look at how this vital system works.

Cylinder Block: The largest single part in a small gas engine is the cylinder block. It is a piece of metal in which the cylinder hole is bored or placed.

Cylinder Head: The cylinder head is the top, or ceiling, of the cylinder and is attached to the block with bolts. Depending on the type of engine, the head may or may not include valves.

Piston: A piston is the movable floor in the combustion chamber. Its upward movement compresses the fuel-air mixture. After combustion, its downward movement rotates the crankshaft.

Crankshaft: An engine’s crankshaft is a metal shaft with an offset section onto which the connecting rod is attached. Rotation of the crankshaft moves the piston up in the cylinder. Movement of the piston down in the cylinder then rotates the crankshaft.

Connecting Rod: Between the piston and the crankshaft is a connecting rod. At the larger end of the connecting rod is a bearing that allows rotation around the moving crankshaft. The small end is attached to the piston pin.

Valves: Valves simply open and close passages. A reed valve in a two-stroke engine is activated by changes in air pressure.

Flywheel: At the end of the crankshaft is a circular weighted wheel called a flywheel. The flywheel delivers the engine’s power to devices (wheels, blades, etc.) and helps keep the crankshaft turning smoothly.

Combustion and friction produce heat. Heat and friction.- if not controlled.- can quickly damage an engine’s components. Small gas engines are typically cooled by air. Friction is reduced using movable bearings and lubricants.

Air-Cooling Fins: For simplicity, most smaller gas engines are cooled by air. Metal fins around the outside of the combustion chamber help dissipate the internal heat.

Friction: Friction is resistance that occurs when one surface rubs against another. Friction causes wear. In an engine with many moving parts, friction is reduced with bearings and lubricants.

Bearings: A bearing is a replaceable part that takes the brunt of the friction. A friction bearing relies on lubricants to minimize friction. A nonfriction bearing uses hard steel rollers or balls to prevent wear, though it too requires some lubrication.

Lubricants: Lubricants such as oil and grease reduce surface friction by coating parts with a film. Lubricants in two-stroke engines are applied to surfaces by mixing oil with fuel.

Viscosity: An oil’s viscosity is its resistance to flow. The thicker a lubricating oil or grease is, the higher its viscosity number.

Filters: Friction happens. Moving parts wear, even with the best lubricants. The resulting metal as well as carbon from the combustion process must be cleaned from the oil to ensure long lubrication. Some small engines use oil filters to remove contaminants from the circulating oil.

Regularly servicing your small engine will ultimately save you money and time. In the next section, we’ll review how, where, and when to service this engine.

The Benefits of Regular Small-Engine Maintenance

Purchasing a small engine-driven implement can make a dent in your budget. Tools and toys powered by small engines can cost anywhere from 100 to 10,000. That’s why it’s a good idea to invest in periodic servicing of your small engine. Replacing an engine every couple of years is an annoying and needless expense. Below we will review detailed information on how to service two-stroke gas engines. Following these procedures could help you put more money in the bank and less into your mechanic’s

Benefits of Regular Service

Servicing your small engine tool or toy on a regular basis offers many advantages over the Wait-Until-It-Breaks Maintenance Program.

• By establishing a service schedule, you will gain confidence that whenever you need the unit it will be ready for use.
• By performing a number of service functions together, you will save time. You can pick up all needed parts and lubricants in one trip to the parts store. Then you need to disassemble a component only once to perform numerous service procedures rather than taking it apart many times.
• Regular service gives you a chance to visually inspect the entire engine and related components for damage, wear, and other potential problems.

How, Where, and When to ServiceKnowing how to service is as important as knowing when. Some service procedures can be performed wherever you store your tool or toy: in a garage, storage shed, or tool shed. If the unit is heavy, you can build a ramp up to a sturdy table that is at a handy height for working. Or you can use a ratchet winch to lift the engine. Units weighing less than 40 pounds may be lifted to a workbench or table as long as you lift with your legs rather than with your back. Get help if you need it, and make sure that the unit will remain sturdily in place as you service it. Remember to always put safety first!Servicing a small engine is easy once you know what to do and when to do it. A service chart can help you determine common service requirements as well as track what service has been done. Your engine-powered unit may have a service chart in the owner’s manual or service manual. Typical recommendations include changing engine oil every 25 hours of use and tuning up the engine at least once a year.The purpose of ongoing service, also known as preventive maintenance, is to keep your engine-driven tool or toy in good operating condition. Ongoing service procedures include air cleaner service, crankcase breather service, cooling system service, muffler service, lubrication, and tune-up.Lubrication service means making sure that all moving parts have sufficient lubrication (oil and/or grease) to minimize wear. Lubrication service procedures include mixing oil with fuel in two-stroke engines, and lubricating other moving parts.A tune-up consists of the adjustment and/or replacement of parts critical to smooth and efficient engine operation. Those parts include components in all engine systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. Ignition tune-ups are more important for mechanical-breaker ignitions than they are for self-contained solid-state ignitions. Regular tune-ups will keep your small engine running smoothly and reduce the need for repairs.In addition, you should check other systems and make adjustments as needed to keep them operating smoothly. This includes adjusting the throttle, choke, and governor linkage, and cleaning off debris.Engine-driven tools and toys usually come with an owner’s manual. While some manufacturers’ manuals are more complete and better written than others, most manuals include basic information on safe operation and service. Unfortunately, product manuals are often written to reduce the manufacturer’s liability for accidental misuse rather than to help the owner service the product. In addition, manuals for engine-driven products typically show how to service the nonengine components: the grass catcher, wheel adjustments, blades, chains, and other parts. Service information for the engine may be minimal or nonexistent in the owner’s manual.

What can you do about this lack of information? Fortunately, there are numerous after-market publishers of service manuals for specific models of small engines. If you don’t have an owner’s manual, you can contact the manufacturer directly to purchase one; manufacturers also sell service manuals. Most manufacturers keep product manuals for up to 20 years. If they only have one original copy left, you can often request a photocopy for a small charge.

Knowing how to service the fuel system is an important part of caring for a small engine. Learn how to care for fuel filters, carburetors, and other major fuel system parts in the next section.

How to Repair a Small-Engine Fuel System

The function of a small engine fuel system is to store and deliver fuel to the combustion chamber. Maintaining a fuel system includes servicing the fuel filter, air cleaner, fuel tank, and fuel lines; adjusting the carburetor; and adjusting the governor. Of course, not all small engines have all of these components.

Servicing Fuel Filters

Some small engines have a fuel strainer in the bottom of the fuel tank. Others have a removable fuel strainer in the fuel line. Still other small engines use disposable in-line fuel filters made of pleated paper. To clean sediment from a tank:

Step 1: Drain or siphon all fuel from the tank.

Step 2: With a flashlight, find the lowest point in the tank: the sediment reservoir. Clean all sediment from the reservoir indentation.

Step 3: Wipe sediment from the end of the filter element.

Step 4: Wipe the inside of the tank with a clean rag.

Step 5: Refill the fuel tank.

Here is how to clean sediment from a fuel strainer:

Step 1: Find and close the shutoff valve on the fuel line.

Step 2: Loosen the lock nut on the bowl retainer and remove the sediment bowl.

Step 3: Empty and clean the sediment bowl. Clean the filter screen. Refill the sediment bowl with fresh fuel.

Step 4: Reinstall the sediment bowl and bowl retainer, tightening the lock nut.

Step 5: Open the shutoff valve.

Here is how to replace an in-line fuel filter:

Step 1: Find and close the shutoff valve on the fuel line or use a clothespin to pinch the fuel line closed.

Step 2: Disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel line.

Step 3: Replace the in-line fuel filter with an exact replacement part.

Step 4: Open the shutoff valve.

Servicing Air Cleaners

The purpose of an air cleaner on a small engine is to keep large particles in the air from clogging the carburetor. The two types of air cleaners used on small engines are oil bath and dry. Hereis how to service an air cleaner:

Step 1: Remove the cover of the air cleaner, typically by unscrewing a nut on top of the cleaner.

Step 2: If it’s an oil cleaner, remove all oil and contaminants from the center channel of the cleaner, wipe it clean, then replace oil to the indicated level. A dry cleaner cannot be cleaned and therefore must be replaced.

Step 3: Replace the air cleaner cover and make sure all fasteners are securely tightened.

Servicing Fuel Tanks and Lines

Fuel systems with pumps use nonpressurized fuel tanks. Outboard engines typically use pressurized tanks. Fuel lines are usually made of neoprene. Here’s how to service a fuel tank and line:

Step 1: Remove the cap from the fuel tank.

Step 2: Using a flashlight, check for sediment in the fuel tank. If sediment is found, clean the tank and replace the fuel. Replace the fuel cap when done.

Step 3: Check the fuel line and siphon bulb, if there is one, by squeezing them and inspecting for cracks. If damaged, replace with a line or a bulb of the same inside diameter. Make sure it is approved for use with fuel.

Adjusting Carburetors

A carburetor mixes fuel and air in the correct proportion for use by the engine. The three types of carburetors commonly used in small engines are natural draft, updraft, and downdraft. These names describe the direction that air flows from the inlet to the engine manifold. To maintain your small engine, you will want to make sure the carburetor’s speed and mixture are correctly adjusted.

There are many types and models of carburetors used on small gas engines. Some have more available adjustments than others. Depending on the design, some carburetors are set at the factory and don’t include adjusting screws. For example, a carburetor may allow adjustment of high speed, idle speed, and idle mixture while another only allows high and idle speed adjustments. Here’s how to adjust the typical three-adjustment carburetor:

Step 1: With the engine running, open the throttle wide. Turn the high-speed adjustment needle forward and backward until the highest speed setting is found.

Step 2: Move the throttle to the slowest running speed. Adjust the idle-speed needle until the recommended idle speed is found.

Step 3: Once the idle speed has been set, adjust the idle mixture until the engine runs smoothly.

Adjusting Governors

A governor is a device that controls the speed of the engine as the load changes. As the load slows the engine down, the governor opens the throttle to return the engine to a set speed. Governors are commonly used on engine-powered electrical generators where constant speed is important. Two types of governors are installed on small engines: mechanical and air-vane.

Caution: An incorrectly adjusted governor can cause the small engine to operate at excessively high speeds and damage or destroy it.

Unfortunately, there is no universal adjustment sequence for small engine governors. Much depends on the type of governor, whether the crankshaft is horizontal or vertical, the complexity and pivot points of the linkage, and the intended operating range. Because of these factors, refer to an owner’s manual or service manual for your specific engine and application to adjust the governor.

In the next section, learn how the ignition system needs to be routinely serviced so it can deliver a high-voltage spark to help start a small engine.

Is Buying an Electric Lawn Mower in 2023 Worth It? Here Are the Pros and Cons

Compared to gas-powered lawn mowers, electric models are cleaner, quieter and greener.- but there are some drawbacks.

Macy Meyer is a N.C. native who graduated from UNC-Chapel Hill in 2021 with a B.A. in English and Journalism. She currently resides in Charlotte, N.C., where she has been working as an Editor I, covering a variety of topics across CNET’s Home and Wellness teams, including home security, fitness and nutrition, Smart home tech and more. Prior to her time at CNET, Macy was featured in The News Observer, The Charlotte Observer, INDY Week, and other state and national publications. In each article, Macy helps readers get the most out of their home and wellness. When Macy isn’t writing, she’s volunteering, exploring the town or watching sports.

• Macy has been working for CNET for coming on 2 years. Prior to CNET, Macy received a North Carolina College Media Association award in sports writing.

For decades, lawn mowers were gas-guzzling and emissions-spouting beasts that were hard to pull-start and loud enough to wake up the neighborhood. But a new generation of electric-powered models is changing the lawn care game.

Though gas-powered models still dominate the aisles of big-box stores, a growing number of affordable electric mowers now provide a compelling alternative, whether your priority is power, convenience or sustainability. If you’re in the market, you have more options than ever.- and the best electric mowers are now good enough to rival their gas-powered competitors. We’ll break down the pros and cons of electric and gas mowers to help guide your buying decision.

Pro: Electric lawn mowers are quieter

Lawn mowers are loud. While standard gas-powered mowers usually operate at 95 decibels.- equivalent to the racket made by a motorcycle revving its engine.- electric mowers max out at around 75 decibels on average, closer to the din of a washing machine. If you live in a neighborhood, an electric mower is the less disruptive option.

Con: Shorter run times

Once you start mowing, you want the job done in one fell swoop.- but that might not be possible with an electric lawn mower, especially if you have a significant plot of land. Electric models top out at between 45 to 60 minutes per charge, which should be enough to handle up to half an acre of grass.

Some electric mowers, like this corded Sun Joe hover model will provide unlimited mowing time, as long as you have a power source or long enough extension cord. Most electric models run on batteries, however, and offer run times ranging from 20 to 45 minutes. If it takes you longer to mow your yard, that’s going to be a problem.- or a delay, at least, while you recharge. You can keep a second battery on hand, but that’ll require an additional purchase.

Pro: Easier to maneuver and less maintenance

A gas-powered mower requires periodic maintenance, including the eventual replacement of a spark plug, oil filter and air filter. Electric mower components, however, require less regular servicing, which should increase your savings over the long term. In this way, an electric model can be more economical than a gas-powered counterpart.

Most electric mowers are also relatively lightweight, making them easier to navigate across your lawn and maneuver around tight corners. Our top electric pick, the EGO Power Plus, weighs 62.6 pounds.- making it considerably lighter than the Craftsman M250, which weighs in at a hefty 90 pounds. Though the self-propelled engine improves maneuverability when you’re cutting the grass, the mower is still heavy to push.

Pro: Better for the environment

Gasoline-powered engines produce a surprising amount of carbon emissions and a slew of pollutants. According to the California Air Resources Board, one hour of mowing generates the same pollution as driving a car for 300 miles. And the Environmental Protection Agency says that gas lawn mowers contribute the majority of non-road-related air pollution generated nationwide.

Electric lawn mowers are a much cleaner, energy-efficient alternative. The Electric Power Research Institute notes that if we replaced half the gas-powered lawn mowers with electric models, it would reduce the same amount of emissions as removing 2 million vehicles from the road. This is certainly an important factor to consider when purchasing a new mower.

Con: Electric lawn mowers aren’t as powerful

Lawn mower power is measured by a torque rating, which quantifies the driving force behind the blade’s rotation. The higher the torque rating, the more powerful the chopping motion.- and the less likely the mower is to get stuck or caught up on a clump of grass or other obstruction.

The average electric lawn mower has between 2 and 2.5 pound-feet of torque. The average of a gas-powered mower is between 4.5 and 8.75 pound-feet, which is about three times more power. This means a gas-powered mower will make it easier to tackle challenging terrain like hills and dips and slants in your yard. And homeowners with larger lawns or yards with hills or slopes may require heavier duty equipment like a riding lawn mower. While most riding lawn mowers are gas-powered, there are electric ones on the market, like this Ryobi model.

Pro: They can be less expensive

If you’re in the market for a new mower, a basic electric mower is less expensive than a basic gas mower.

Electric models can start as low as about 100, the price for the Sun Joe hover model tested by CNET experts, but that’s a particularly low-priced outlier. Most push-from-behind electric models can cost anywhere from 250 to 550.

for gas-powered mowers can start at around 200-250. But the most popular lawn mower brands have basic gas-powered models that fall into the 400 to 1,00 price range. Certain gas riding lawn mowers can even reach up to 2,500.

Final thoughts

Overall, the lawn mower market continues to expand, with an array of diverse offerings. For homeowners with larger yards, gas-powered mowers may still be the best fit, since they have the durability and power to tackle bigger lawns with ease. That’s if you’re comfortable with the environmental impact gas mowers have.

If you want to maintain a midsize yard, reduce your carbon footprint (and even save some money) in the process, then an electric lawn mower is probably the best for your needs. Either route you take can help you gain a healthy-looking lawn that boosts the curb appeal and value of your home.

Lawn mower revving high

I’ve always fixed my own cars but never been much good at working out problems with small engines. I just bought a brand new 4 stroke mower from Bunnings. Put it together, added the oil and fuel and it started first go really easy, beautiful ! BUT, it revs flat chat no matter what position I put the throttle lever. The lever has choke in the throttle closed position. I removed the air filter cover when the motor was stopped to check and the butterfly moves from fully closed to fully open when the lever is operated. I’m taking it back for an exchange (not happy because the shop is 25 miles away) but I’m curious what might be causing this.

Premium Member Join Date Jan 2008 Location Gold Coast Age 69 Posts 3,729 Thanks 1,978 Thanked 2,529 Times in 1,296 Posts Rep Power 887 Reputation 28655

Probably a stuffed governor. There should be an external spring or springs attached to a lever on the side of the block and to the throttle to control the speed

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Senior Member Join Date Feb 2008 Location Mid North Coast NSW. Australia Age 66 Posts 2,198 Thanks 1,426 Thanked 463 Times in 309 Posts Rep Power 404 Reputation 7177

Originally Posted by mandc

Probably a stuffed governor. There should be an external spring or springs attached to a lever on the side of the block and to the throttle to control the speed

Yes I know about the governor but I wouldn’t have a clue how to adjust one.

So here’s an update : I took it back and exchanged it for another brand new one exactly the same. and I mean exactly the same. assembled the handle, put in fuel and oil, started right away, beautiful, BUT revs flat chat same as the first one. Cannot make it slow down. WTF!

Senior Member Join Date Feb 2008 Location Mid North Coast NSW. Australia Age 66 Posts 2,198 Thanks 1,426 Thanked 463 Times in 309 Posts Rep Power 404 Reputation 7177

Ok so I just watched a couple of YouTube vids about setting the governor. They say to loosen the governor lever hub then retighten while holding the lever fully clockwise and the shaft fully clockwise. That sounds ok to me but where do I set the throttle lever ? or doesn’t that matter ?

Senior Member Join Date Jul 2010 Posts 2,216 Thanks 2,795 Thanked 1,487 Times in 822 Posts Rep Power 775 Reputation 27163

Bunnings lawnmowers are often a cheap copy of something like Honda or Briggs. each have different governor systems so its hard to fault find without seeing a photo of which one you have.

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Originally Posted by loopyloo

If u want to go on an expedition get a Land Rover, if u want to come home from an expedition get a Landcruiser!

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Senior Member Join Date Feb 2008 Location Mid North Coast NSW. Australia Age 66 Posts 2,198 Thanks 1,426 Thanked 463 Times in 309 Posts Rep Power 404 Reputation 7177

Strange throttle I reckon. It has 4 detent positions, which you would call choke, low, med and fast. Not sure why they thought detents are a good idea.

Crossed out is engine brake lever.

Senior Member Join Date Feb 2008 Location Mid North Coast NSW. Australia Age 66 Posts 2,198 Thanks 1,426 Thanked 463 Times in 309 Posts Rep Power 404 Reputation 7177

Originally Posted by VroomVroom

Bunnings lawnmowers are often a cheap copy of something like Honda or Briggs. each have different governor systems so its hard to fault find without seeing a photo of which one you have.

This ones a Yardking brand, the motor only has Yardking on the cowl label but the instruction book has Briggs and Stratton written on the back page.

Senior Member Join Date Feb 2008 Location Mid North Coast NSW. Australia Age 66 Posts 2,198 Thanks 1,426 Thanked 463 Times in 309 Posts Rep Power 404 Reputation 7177

Another thing I found : There is a spring that goes from the bottom of the governor lever to a second lever which has a pivot in the middle. The top of the second lever stops at an adjustment screw, which I think might be for idle speed adjustment. I’ve drawn them on roughly yet they are actually behind the main plate. That spring and the second lever are always rattley loose no matter where the throttle or governor lever is moved to. Having said that, I did not look at it when the engine was running.

Senior Member Join Date Jul 2010 Posts 2,216 Thanks 2,795 Thanked 1,487 Times in 822 Posts Rep Power 775 Reputation 27163

ok. that second lever and spring are supposed to be rattly loose. there is no direct connection between the throttle plate and the throttle lever. just this second lever and spring that you described. When the engine runs. the governor lever ( middle of second photo ) pulls back on the spring. which then attempts to close the throttle. as the engine slows the spring tension is relaxed by the governor which then allows the throttle to open a bit. under low or no load there wont be much governor movement but when load increases this will be more pronounced. It sounds to me like in your case the governor is not putting enough tension on the spring to close the throttle. most likely bad factory adjustment imo but its under warranty so you cant fix it yourself

The Following User Says Thank You to VroomVroom For This Useful Post:

Senior Member Join Date Feb 2008 Location Mid North Coast NSW. Australia Age 66 Posts 2,198 Thanks 1,426 Thanked 463 Times in 309 Posts Rep Power 404 Reputation 7177

Originally Posted by VroomVroom

ok. that second lever and spring are supposed to be rattly loose. there is no direct connection between the throttle plate and the throttle lever. just this second lever and spring that you described. When the engine runs. the governor lever ( middle of second photo ) pulls back on the spring. which then attempts to close the throttle. as the engine slows the spring tension is relaxed by the governor which then allows the throttle to open a bit. under low or no load there wont be much governor movement but when load increases this will be more pronounced. It sounds to me like in your case the governor is not putting enough tension on the spring to close the throttle. most likely bad factory adjustment imo but its under warranty so you cant fix it yourself

I have to have a go at fixing it because it has a replacement only warranty. They were a promotional item and I think they are all sold out now. If I can fix it I’ll have a pretty good mower, but if not I can get my money back but I’ll have driven 100 miles wasting fuel and wasting time assembling 2 mowers for nothing, then I’ve still gotta get another mower.