Milwaukee Sawzall Blades – Ax and Torch. Sawzall blade handle

Best Sawzall Blade For Bone – Trusted And Tested

Looking for the best Sawzall blade to handle the toughest of bones? Look no further! In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the top Sawzall blades on the market specifically designed for cutting through bones with ease.

Whether you’re a butcher, a hunter, or just need to cut through some bones for a DIY project, our recommendations will ensure you have the right tool for the job. So, sit back, relax, and read on to find the best Sawzall blade for cutting bones!

Comparison Table For bone saw blade for Sawzall

ZUZZEE 2 pcs 300mm	KONIGEEHRE 5 Pack	YAFEX 5 Pack Unpainted	Caliastro 9-Inch
Blade Material	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel	Stainless Steel
Blade Length (Inches)	12	12	9	9
Number of Blades	2	5	5	1
Purpose	Cutting Meat Bones	Cutting Meat Bones	Cutting Meat Bones	Cutting Meat Bones
Blade Teeth Design	Not Specified	Not Specified	Not Specified	Not Specified
Blade Coating/Finish	Not Specified	Not Specified	Unpainted	Not Specified
Suitable for Cutting Frozen Meat/Bones	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Compatibility with Reciprocating Saws	Yes	Yes	Yes	Yes
Cost	Check Latest Price	Check Latest Price	Check Latest Price	Check Latest Price

Best Sawzall Blade For Bone Reviews

ZUZZEE Stainless Steel Reciprocating Saw Blades Cutting Tools:

Key Features:

• Made of high-quality stainless steel for durability and longevity
• Blade length of 300mm (12 inches)
• Pack of 2 blades for convenient use
• Designed for cutting meat bones
• Compatible with reciprocating saws

The ZUZZEE 2 pcs 300mm Stainless Steel Reciprocating Saw Blades Cutting Tools is a great choice for those in need of high-quality saw blades for cutting meat bones. Made of durable stainless steel, these blades are built to last and can handle even the toughest of bones. With a blade length of 12 inches, they provide ample cutting power, and the pack of 2 blades offers convenient use.

• Made of high-quality stainless steel for durability and longevity
• Long blade length of 12 inches for ample cutting power
• Pack of 2 blades for convenient use
• Designed specifically for cutting meat bones
• Compatible with reciprocating saws

Disadvantages:

• Blade teeth design is not specified, which may impact the effectiveness of cutting through bones

Why I Recommend It:

I would recommend the ZUZZEE Reciprocating Saw Blades Cutting Tools to anyone in need of a durable and high-quality saw blade for cutting meat bones. Made of stainless steel, these blades are built to last, and their 12-inch blade length provides ample cutting power. The pack of 2 blades is convenient, and the blades are compatible with reciprocating saws.

Overall, these blades offer great value for their price and are an excellent choice for anyone in need of saw blades for cutting meat bones.

KONIGEEHRE Stainless Steel Reciprocating Saw Blades for Frozen Meat Bone:

Key Features:

• Made of high-quality stainless steel
• Designed for cutting frozen meat and bones
• Precision-ground teeth for efficient cutting
• Hardened body for durability
• Compatible with most reciprocating saws

The KONIGEEHRE Stainless Steel Reciprocating Saw Blades are made with high-quality stainless steel, making them a durable option for cutting through frozen meat and bones. The precision-ground teeth provide efficient cutting and the hardened body makes them suitable for heavy-duty use.

• High-quality material for durability
• Precise cutting for efficient results
• Compatible with most reciprocating saws
• Suitable for cutting frozen meat and bones

Disadvantages:

Why I Recommend It:

The precision-ground teeth and hardened body make it suitable for heavy-duty use and its compatibility with most reciprocating saws makes it a versatile option.

YAFEX 5 Pack Unpainted Meat Cutting Saw Blades:

Key Features:

• 5 packs of unpainted meat-cutting saw blades
• Made from high-quality steel for durability and long-lasting sharpness
• Fits most standard meat-cutting saws
• An unpainted surface allows for easy identification and food safety

The YAFEX 5-Pack Unpainted Meat Cutting Saw Blades are an essential tool for any butcher or meat processing operation. These blades are made from high-quality steel, ensuring durability and long-lasting sharpness. They fit most standard meat-cutting saws, making them a versatile addition to any kitchen or processing facility. The unpainted surface of these blades is a unique feature, allowing for easy identification and ensuring food safety by avoiding any potential paint residue.

• High-quality steel construction for durability and sharpness
• Versatile fit for most standard meat-cutting saws
• Unpainted surface for easy identification and food safety
• Convenient 5-pack for improved value and convenience

Disadvantages:

Why I Recommend It:

I highly recommend the YAFEX 5 Pack Unpainted Meat Cutting Saw Blades for their combination of quality, versatility, and value. The high-quality steel construction ensures durability and sharpness, while the unpainted surface provides easy identification and improved food safety. The 5-pack is a convenient and cost-effective solution for any butcher or meat processing operation. Whether you’re a professional or a home cook, these blades are sure to make quick work of even the toughest cuts of meat.

Caliastro 9-Inch Stainless Steel Frozen Meat Bone Cutting Saw Blades:

Key Features:

• 9-inch blade length
• Made of stainless steel
• Designed for cutting frozen meat and bones
• Suitable for use in a butcher shop or commercial kitchen
• Durable and long-lasting

The Caliastro 9-Inch Stainless Steel Frozen Meat Bone Cutting Saw Blades are a versatile and practical tool for butchers and commercial kitchens. The 9-inch blade length allows for the efficient cutting of frozen meat and bones, and the stainless steel construction ensures durability and longevity. The blade is also designed to be sharp and easy to use, making it ideal for frequent use in a busy butcher shop or kitchen.

• Durable construction: The stainless steel material is resistant to rust and corrosion, making it ideal for use in a damp environment.
• Efficient cutting: The 9-inch blade length and sharp design allow for quick and efficient cutting of frozen meat and bones.
• Versatile use: The blade can be used in a variety of settings, including butcher shops, commercial kitchens, and even at home.

Disadvantages:

• The blade is specifically designed for cutting frozen meat and bones, and may not be suitable for cutting other materials.

Why I Recommend It:

I recommend the Caliastro 9-Inch Stainless Steel Frozen Meat Bone Cutting Saw Blades for their durability, efficient cutting, and versatile use. If you are in need of a reliable and long-lasting blade for cutting frozen meat and bones, this is an excellent option.

Buying Guide for Best Sawzall Blade for Cutting Bone

When looking for the best sawzall blade for cutting bones, consider the following factors:

Blade Material:

The material of the blade will play a significant role in its durability, longevity, and ability to cut through bones effectively. Look for blades made of high-quality materials such as stainless steel or bi-metal, which offer resistance to rust and corrosion.

Blade Length:

The length of the blade will determine its efficiency and maneuverability. Choose a blade length that fits your needs and the size of the bones you plan to cut. A longer blade is typically more efficient for cutting larger bones, while a shorter blade may be more maneuverable.

Teeth per Inch (TPI):

The TPI of a blade refers to the number of teeth per inch of the blade. A higher TPI will result in a smoother, finer cut, but a lower TPI may be necessary for cutting denser bones. Consider the type of bones you will be cutting and choose a TPI that is appropriate.

Blade Thickness:

The thickness of the blade will impact its durability and ability to handle heavy-duty cutting tasks. Consider the thickness of the blade and make sure it is suitable for the type of cutting you will be doing.

Tooth Design:

Look for a blade with a tooth design that is optimized for cutting bones, such as a wavy or raker tooth pattern. This will help to ensure that the blade cuts through bones effectively and with minimal effort.

Compatibility:

Ensure that the blade is compatible with your sawzall or reciprocating saw. Not all blades will work with all saws, so make sure to check the manufacturer’s specifications before making your purchase.

Conclusion

The best sawzall blade for cutting bones requires consideration of several key factors, including blade material, length, teeth per inch (TPI), thickness, tooth design, and compatibility with your sawzall or reciprocating saw.

By taking these factors into account, you can find a blade that is both effective and durable, making it ideal for cutting through bones with ease. Whether you are a butcher, a hunter, or someone who frequently works with bones, having the right sawzall blade is essential for getting the job done efficiently and effectively.

Robert Dennis

I am Robert Dennis. A professional grill and smoker technician, I have over 10 years of experience in the industry. I am skilled in the repair and maintenance of all types of grills and smokers and am knowledgeable in the use of a variety of tools and techniques. I share my knowledge and experience to help readers understand the inner workings of grills and smokers and how to maintain them properly. I am dedicated to providing the best information to help readers keep their grills and smokers in top working condition Serve Yourself.

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Milwaukee Sawzall Blades – Ax and Torch

When trying to determine who makes the best corded reciprocating saw you need good blades. If you remember back to your days in science class, the goal of any good experiment is to control as many variables as possible. Then, only what you want to test actually varies. We first needed to set up a system that would put each saw through a variety of tests. Those tests reflected what each blade could perform. We knew we needed a blade that would cut through nail-embedded wood. We needed another that could handle steel and PVC. With lots of available options, we settled on the Milwaukee Ax and Torch reciprocating SawZall blades.

Editor’s Note: We got to check out Milwaukee SawZall blade manufacturing in Greenwood. Check out that article for a cool behind-the-scenes look!

Why Milwaukee Sawzall Blades?

There is some confusion out there about recip saw blades. Many folks think that because a tool has a branded name, like the Milwaukee Sawzall, you can only use that blade brand. This isn’t true. Recip saw blades fit in any of the major manufacturer’s saws giving you the option to choose both the saw you think is the best and pair it with the blade that you prefer.

Several thoughts went into deciding on Milwaukee Sawzall blades for our test. Two, in particular, stood out to me. First, Milwaukee is constantly innovating within its company. “Disruptive Innovation” is part of their corporate culture. In fact, t’s nearly impossible to talk to someone at Milwaukee without hearing that term. Second, Milwaukee invented the reciprocating saw. When you’re the one to design anything from the beginning, you are intimately knowledgeable about it. We counted on this combination of innovation and knowledge to produce the best blade for our testing… and we weren’t disappointed.

Editor’s Note: Check out our best SawZall blade article for our top picks.

The Milwaukee Ax Sawzall Blade

As the name would imply, the Ax is designed for wood cutting duties. In our testing, we used nail-embedded wood, which this blade is designed to deal with.

Of the Milwaukee Sawzall blades, the aggressive Ax, with its Fang Tip seems the most aggressive. This tip bites into the wood on contact instead of bouncing up or sliding with the motion and/or vibration of the recip saw. I say “or” vibration because a couple of the saws we tested, including the Milwaukee Sawzall, had very little vibration at all.

A Nail Guard design prevents most nails that you will encounter from slipping between the teeth and causing damage. The blade is thicker to better resist bending and fracturing for greater durability. Also, its 1-inch height helps keep the Milwaukee Sawzall blades more rigid. This makes for straight and accurate cuts. Finishing off the durability features are the Matrix II bi-metal teeth.

The Sawzall Ax Blade is available in either 6-inch, 9-inch, or 12-inch lengths. They feature a 5 TPI design (teeth per inch). They are sold in packs of 5 or in bulk packs of 25 or 100.

The Torch with Double Duty Upgrade

With a name reminiscent of a cutting torch, the Double Duty Torch blades were our metal cutting Sawzall blade of choice. We used the Torch to cut through steel pipes, a U-shaped unistrut piece, and PVC.

The Torch Sawzall Blades have an optimized tooth design that increases the lifespan up to twice the previous generation. Tough Neck ribs strengthen the tang of the blade to improve durability where it is shorter and therefore weaker. The Grid Iron honeycomb pattern increases the rigidity to help keep the blade from buckling.

Double Duty Torch blades are available in lengths of 6″, 9″, or 12″. Tooth options include 10, 14, 18, and 24 TPI. Like the Ax Sawzall blades, these are available in packs of 5 or bulk packages of 25 or 100 blades.

How Did the Sawzall Blades Perform?

We put each recip saw through 12 inches of nail-embedded wood with the Ax. The Torch was used to cut 4 pieces of PVC pipe followed by that U-shaped unistrut beam. In a separate test, the Torch blade had to make it through 5 steel pipes.

The greatest compliment that we can offer for both the Double Duty Torch and Ax Sawzall Blades is that we didn’t have to think about them during the shootout. We had plenty of spare blades on hand in case they failed during the test for any reason, but that never happened. The blades performed flawlessly, resisting buckling and we experienced no breakage. Even cutting through 5 steel pipes rapidly, there was no noticeable decrease in performance due to dulling or breaking of the teeth.

Considering not only the tasks we required of each blade but also the Rapid speed in which we abused them, I came away very impressed. The next time you’re standing in your local Home Depot staring at the multitude of recip saw blades available, don’t hesitate when you see the red packaging of the Milwaukee Sawzall Blades.

Wednesday, October 4, 2017

Making a SIMPLE knife out of a Sawzall blade

Sometimes you just want to make a quick and dirty knife. Knife making, while being a very rewarding (and fun) hobby, is also very difficult. It requires hard work, determination, and complete and total disregard for personal cleanliness.

It also takes forever.

While I certainly love to put the time and effort into a classic, well polished knife with hardwood handle and immaculate finish; the time comes when I just don’t want to do all that work.

This knife can be made in only a couple hours (less if you don’t care how it looks) and doesn’t require a heat treat.

The secret? It’s ground out of a sawzall blade.

Sawzall blades have already been hardened, so as long as I am careful to keep the blade from overheating as I grind, I should be able to forego the heat treatment altogether and still end with a decently hardened blade. In theory at least. We’ll see if it’s actually true.

At any rate, this is a great method for those of you don’t have all the tools, experience, materials, or patience to put together a knife the normal way.

This project started when my Dad broke one of his large sawzall blades at a job (a common occurrence). Being always on the lookout for scraps of metal with which to make stuff, I snapped it up.

Wait a minute. Actually, that’s not quite how it happened. First he gave to my one of my little brothers, who was going to make a knife out of it, and he had it for several months. (They can be a bit slow with the making thing) Then another of my brothers picked up some old chewed up deer antler from a friend. (I have a lot of brothers. And the deer antler has nothing to do with this project.) I traded an obsidian arrowhead (from my rock collection) for the deer antler, which I traded to the other one (brother) for the sawzall blade. (No worries, I then traded a bag of pennies and a prop Lord of the Rings one ring to get the antler back. I’ll use that for another project.)

I find that nearly all of my projects begin with me sitting at my desk, staring down at a blank sheet of notebook paper, with a pencil in my hand, good music playing, and a large cup of strong coffee on my desk.

I find planning my projects out on paper to be an inestimably valuable as well as just plain fun part of the creating process. (I’d check out this class if I were you. Highly recomended and very helpfull. I learned some great tricks: https://www.instructables.com/class/Design-Sketching-Class/)

This was no exception. I traced the shape of the sawblade onto the paper, and then sketched out the knife I saw in it. It turned out to be a japanese inspired tactical knife with a slightly upswept tanto blade, jimping on the spine, and a sweet paracord handle wrap to add that nice, minimalistic-yet-totally-cool-look.

Time to start grinding. Often I photocopy the design I drew out, and then trace the outline onto the metal as a guide. In this case I just marked out the basic lines with a sharpie and just eyeballed it. I was feeling low key.

It is very important that we keep the metal cool. Normally it doesn’t really matter if you overheat the steel when grinding, as the knife isn’t HT-ed yet and you would be redoing it later. With this knife it’s different. We won’t be heat treating it later, so if the steel discolors, it’s ruined.

I advise you grind with bare hands, so you can feel the temperature of the metal. When it gets hot to touch, dunk it in water.

Most handle wraps look like an afterthought. Like someone just slapped some paracord around a tang designed for something else. I wanted mine to look like it was meant to be there.

A lot of that depends on the particular wrap you do (sorry, but most of them look like absolute CRUD), but it also helps if you design the knife with a handle wrap in mind. To help it fit in with the rest of the knife, I ground the handle down a good 1/8th of an inch on both sides where I was planning for the paracord to go. (hard to explain, see pictures)

It will help the paracord stay in place on the handle, as well as make it look like the wrap is built into the tang.

Here’s another step that is fairly self explanatory. As before, just be careful to keep the metal cool.

The traditional japanese knife handle wrap requires the presence of a hole in the bottom of the tang. The japanese inspired wrap I will be doing will require a hole as well.

Since we are dealing with hardened steel, keep in mind that it will be very tough to drill through. As of yet I do not own any good metal eating drill bits, so I had to go slow and step up with progressively larger bits until the hole was the size I wanted. I believe it ended up being a quarter inch in diameter.

Tip: If you are feeling really impatient, you could anneal that portion of the tang with a blowtorch. It will then be much softer and easier to drill through.

After I finish roughing out the shape with my bench grinder, I move over the belt sanders and clean up everything.

Professional knifemakers generally don’t use bench grinders; they do all their grinding on their fancy-shmancy high powered 2×72 belt sanders (you can tell I’m jealous). Then they just switch belts to do the finer sanding.

I don’t own a high powered belt grinder. Thus, when I need to take off material quickly, I find it best to use my bench grinder, and move to my underpowered sanders mainly for grinding bevels, finish sanding, and shaping wood for handles.

Not that you couldn’t do all do the main grinding on the sanders, but I find it takes much longer. That’s just wearing the belts out unnecessarily.

No pictures of it, but I did do a little hand sanding afterward to give it that last little touch up.

Good filework requires more practice than anything else. If you are hoping to get some great tips and techniques for how to file good jimping here, well, bummer. I can count the number of knives on which I’ve done fancy filework on one hand, so I hardly feel that I should be telling you what to do.

The main thing I’ve learned is to go slow and pay careful attention to spacing. Well done jimping can add that extra bit to set the knife apart, but bad filework sticks out like a sore thumb.

I would also be careful with how aggressive (sharp) the filework is. Good jimping fits your hand comfortably, adding just the perfect amount of extra grip. It should NOT bite into your thumb. I can’t stand it when jimping gets uncomfortable after a few minutes of use. It completely destroys the purpose.

Sawzall blade handle

Fast-cutting folding saw

I highly recommend the Milwaukee Folding Jab Saw for anyone in need of a reliable cutting tool. This saw stands out from the crowd with its compact design, which makes it easy to carry in your tool belt or work bag. Despite its small size, it boasts a sharp, replaceable blade that cuts through a variety of materials with ease.

One of the standout features of this jab saw is its compatibility with any Milwaukee Sawzall blade. This versatility allows you to tackle a range of tasks, from cutting drywall to trimming branches, all with a single tool. The high-quality blade material ensures a clean, precise cut every time. In fact, this saw cuts drywall faster and cleaner than most fixed-blade jab saws.

The Milwaukee Folding Jab Saw also excels in comfort and ergonomics. The handle is designed to provide a comfortable grip, even during extended use, and its lightweight construction reduces fatigue during prolonged cutting tasks.

Milwaukee 48-22-0305 6 Inch Folding Jab Saw Compatible with Sawzall Reciprocating Saw Blades

A cool tool can be any book, gadget, software, video, map, hardware, material, or website that is tried and true. All reviews on this site are written by readers who have actually used the tool and others like it. Items can be either old or new as long as they are wonderful. We post things we like and ignore the rest. Suggestions for tools much better than what is recommended here are always wanted.

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