Push mower wheels wobble. How Long Do Lawnmower Tires Last

How Long Do Lawnmower Tires Last?

Lawnmowers are here to stay, even in the unforeseeable future. Whether you have a walk-behind or riding lawnmower, cutting grass to a desirable height helps keep homesteads tidy and attractive. However, such is a feat that is only possible with well-maintained components/parts. You can choose to replace worn-out parts such as tires, belts, and blades at home or contact a lawnmower service provider for help. The most important thing is that your machine should be in great working condition so that as soon as spring or summer sets in, you are ready and set to mow. In this post, we answer the question:

How to adjust the wheels on a push mower deckThe EASY way!!

How long do lawnmower tires last?

A good lawnmower tire should last at least up to 5 years, depending on the usage. The lifespan of tires depends mainly on the material, usage, and mileage. If you use your lawnmower a lot, or the terrain is hard for your tires, the life span will be shorter. You can expect a longer tire life when you use rubber tires instead of plastic ones.

According to several sources featuring opinions of top lawnmower service providers and manufacturers, treating a lawnmower as a vital home investment improves its stead and functionality. As a result, tires would also last longer while serving you better. According to J.D Power and Associates-a renowned marketing company, the lifespan of mowers ranges between 7 to 10 years. However, that could be higher for robotic lawnmowers. Maintenance and brand considerations remain pivotal in ensuring the longevity of tires. If you are a homesteader or a handyman, we know how much interest you want to vest in this topic. Unlike mower blades, investing in excellent tires is costlier. Keep reading to learn more.

Signs to Replace Tires in Lawnmowers

Let’s face it. There is nothing like repair with a tire burst unless you take it back to the factory for recycling. Then, you can whet blunt lawnmower blades or even clean clogged gas filters. However, with tires, the approach to maintenance is different. You can take precautions that will help prevent dry rot, but there is only one way about it when age catches up with tires. It is always that time you replaced old worn-out tires with brand new ones.

Of course, you should expect new tires to have a good tread for good traction on the surface, but that’s a story for another day. We will look at factors to consider when buying tires later on; meanwhile, the following signs should get you shopping for spare tires:

Dry Rot

Most people think that dry rot only takes place in wood but that’s not the case. It is something you can also spot in lawnmower tires. Whether you use push or riding mowers, check them regularly for signs of dry rot. Cracks on the sidewall are often the main signs of dry rot, especially after many years of use. Take note that ignoring signs of dry rot puts your machine at risk of damage. You risk a tire burst or tires falling apart. Most importantly, your mower becomes very unreliable as soon as dry rot occurs because tires will start leaking air out.

Also, think about a situation where you are mowing lawns at high speed then a dry rot causes a sudden tire burst. If that happens, you could end up rolling down a steep lawn with the machine tumbling in tow. The rest would be a story for another day. However, most tire bursts will only render your mower immobile until you install new tires.

Proper maintenance matters

For machines to serve their purpose for long, proper care and maintenance are important. Thus, when it comes to ensuring the longevity of lawnmower tires, you should always check them for wear and tear. But here is the catch. If it is not replacing worn-out tires, is it possible to maintain them? Well, tire maintenance is possible. First off, you must ensure they always have ideal pressure and are properly aligned to avoid uneven wear of the tread. Secondly, retreading old tires is a maintenance practice that works. We will explain how to retread tires shortly.

Do not wash tires with harsh chemicals

Tires are made of rubber, and it means they can react with some chemicals. It is why; you should avoid using harsh chemicals when washing your lawnmower. If you don’t have access to the recommended cleaners/washing detergents, use clean water.

Avoid overloading

You don’t want to overload your lawnmower with tools because it will affect its optimal performance. If your machine does not come with a user manual giving a specific load limit, consult its manufacturer for advice. Overloading tires reduce their life span. Even worse, it always has a negative impact on the axle, which will push the cost of lawnmower maintenance higher.

Install matching tires

Mismatch tires on a push lawn mower will not only affect its optimal performance but also make mowing feel like pushing against a brick wall. We know that sometimes it can be difficult finding an exact match of original tires on your mower, but not entirely. Even with limited edition mower brands, having the right tire measurement should save you from the stress of having to replace worn-out tires often. In addition, matching tires means going for the same tread quality, width, diameter, and height when looking for the best spares.

You may want to ask, why is using mismatch tires a bad idea? Well, tires that do not match with the original ones dimensionally do wear out unevenly. You can only imagine how difficult it would be working with such a mower. Talk less about the possibility of a tire blowout and regular puncture.

Keep tire pressure optimal

Making sure tire pressure remains optimal cuts for a whole topic. But let’s make it simple for you. When tire pressure is optimal, you realize faster mowing, thanks to machine efficiency. Having enough pressure in lawnmower tires guard against uneven wear and tear, thus, if you do not know to gauge it correctly, seek help from an expert. But with most tires coming with an instructional manual as part of after-sales services, keeping pressure in your lawnmower tires optimal should not be rocket science.

Rotate tires after some mileage

Another practice that will breathe long life into the tires of your lawnmower is rotating them after, say, 6000 miles. You can check into lawn mowing service to get help with tire rotating or do it in your home garage.

You should, however, note that retreading tires is only a short-lived way of prolonging their lifespan. Professional tire maintenance demands that you replace worn-out tires as soon as tread loses traction. While retreading might help, therein is a danger of poking holes into tires.

Final Thoughts

In the end, how long tires on your lawnmower last depends on maintenance and care. You may have suffered a tire blowout a few times, but the question is what caused it. The catch is that while this post has walked you through the nattiest and grittiest of lawnmower tires, especially how to make them last long, everyone is a culprit of circumstance. After many years of service, mowers begin to experience wear and tear. If it is not the blades, then tires will be slowly losing traction.

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over, remember that when replacing worn-out tires becomes inevitable, don’t just do it to save time. Rather, replace old tires with a new and original set. Take note that variation in tire dimension, however small, can have a negative impact on the optimal performance of your lawnmower. Thus, you should always check the product label and read the user manual to guide your purchase. If need be, consult lawnmower service providers or manufacturers for professional tire care and maintenance. Nothing would put the lifespan of tires at risk, like ignorantly buying mismatching spares or thinking dry rot is a normal occurrence.

How to Fix a Self-Propelled Lawn Mower

If your self-propelled lawn mower has suddenly become a push mower, if it runs rough, or if it won’t even start, don’t panic. You might not need to take it in for service yet. Use these quick tips to narrow down the problem and fix it. Many of these solutions will work no matter if you have a gas, electric, or cordless model.

Here are the three most common dilemmas facing the owners of self-propelled lawn mowers.

The mower doesn’t self-propel anymore, or it moves too slowly

This usually results from a problem with the cable that controls the speed. It’s probably the most common complaint about older self-propelled mowers.

Transmission cable

Time to complete: less than 10 minutes

If the transmission or drive cable comes loose or breaks, your mower will stop moving forward on its own. Inspect the whole cable from the handlebar down to the transmission. Make sure it’s connected firmly at both ends and doesn’t need to be replaced because of wear or damage. (Rodents love to gnaw on wires, especially plastic-coated ones. If you have uninvited guests in your garage over the winter, you might have a few gaps in your cable.)

If you have a Personal Pace mower and it’s moving too slowly, check the wire cable that runs from the handle down to the transmission. With the engine turned off, squeeze the Personal Pace handle. It should move about an inch before you feel resistance. If it moves more than that, the cable may need tightening. This tends to stretch with wear just like a gear cable on an old ten-speed bike.

Loosen the bolt that clamps the cable onto the handle. Pull up the drive cable about an inch, tighten the bolt, and then squeeze the handle again. If there is less play, test the mower’s speed with the engine running.

Wheels and the drive wheel gears

Time to complete: less than 10 minutes if you don’t have to remove the wheels

Wheels and gears need cleaning and lubrication, and sometimes they just need to be replaced. Your mower will move much more slowly if the drive wheels and gears are jammed up with clippings and dirt. Clean them and spray them with WD-40 or graphite.

The mower vibrates too much, makes noises, or cuts poorly

If you have a bent, damaged, or unbalanced blade, it will make the mower shake more than normal. It will also damage your lawn by tearing out grass or making ragged cuts. If you can’t see the ragged cuts now, you will soon enough, as the grass will turn brown at the tips.

Please remember to disconnect the spark plug cable before doing any of the maintenance described below.


Clear out grass clippings and dirt from the underside of the mower. If the blade is obviously bent or damaged, replace it. If it looks okay, but you’re still getting bad vibrations, remove it. Check the balance by using a balancer or hanging it with a nail through its center hole. If one side hangs lower, file that edge until the blade hangs level. Sharpen the blade about every two weeks for the best cut.

Motor shaft

Once you’ve removed the blade, you can see the rod, or shaft, connecting the blade to the motor. If you’ve run over large rocks or tree stumps, it may be bent. If it is damaged, we recommend that you take the mower to a mechanic.

The mower runs rough, or won’t start

Just like in a car, a bad spark plug, drained battery, or stale fuel can stop a mower from starting. If your mower has a fuel shut-off valve and it’s closed, that could prevent your mower from starting, too. Make sure any safety features (like blade control) that keep the mower from operating are all disengaged. Then try starting the mower again. If that fails, try the steps below.


If you’ve left gas in the tank all winter without using a stabilizer, the gas may have gone bad. Does it smell wrong? Remove all the fuel, change the filter, and then put fresh gasoline in the tank. (At least with self-propelled 4-cylinder engines you don’t have to mix the gas and oil together.)

Spark plug

Time to complete: less than 5 minutes

Disconnect the spark plug cable (but wait, you already did that, didn’t you? Safety first!), pull out the spark plug, and wipe it clean. If the porcelain is cracked or the electrode burned off, you’ll need a new one. Lawn mower spark plugs need to be replaced about once a year. After you put it back, or put in a new one, connect the cable. Does the mower start?


If your mower has electric starter that runs off a battery, see if the battery has drained. Recharge it, or replace it if it won’t hold a charge. Do the same for cordless mowers that run off batteries.


Electric mowers are dependent on extension cords, and those cords are prone to damage. Try a different cord and test the outlet to make sure it’s working.

Carburetor and Air Filter

Clean, or better yet, replace the air filter if it’s filthy. Cleaning a carburetor is a big job, but it’s not impossible. See if your mower’s manufacturer gives advice on how to do it, or else take your mower to a mechanic.


If all else fails…

If your mower is out of warranty and repairs are too expensive, consider getting a new self-propelled lawn mower. See the reviews of the latest and greatest models. Find out what features will make your mowing easier. Read more at lawntoolsguide.com.

Milwaukee M18 FUEL 21-Inch Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Review 2823-22HD

After taking a comprehensive look at the Milwaukee 2823 M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower, we believe it’s the most capable professional-grade battery-powered options currently available. It has legitimate professional gas-replacement power and a build that can handle professional use, though there are still a few minor areas for improvement in the design. If performance has been your major sticking point against battery-powered lawn mowers, Milwaukee has breached that barrier.

Milwaukee Delivers Outstanding Performance in First-Gen M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower

Milwaukee Tool fanatics had requested two tools in particular since we started writing about them in 2008: an M18 Fuel track saw and a Milwaukee M18 Fuel lawn mower. Finally, both those tools have come to fruition. With respect to the Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower, it sports everything you might expect from the folks whose parent company put out a product that made the cut for our best lawn mower article. The question that remains is… Who is this mower for?


  • Solid, durable construction
  • Outstanding power
  • Excellent cut quality
  • Variable speed drive dial and thumb bar
  • 180° LED lights
  • Easily visible LED battery level indicator
  • High lift mode for bagging a leaf collection
  • Recessed presence bar

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Cutting Power

As we build our case for Milwaukee’s target user, we have to start with cutting power. Fortunately, that’s something we can quantify. We’ve seen high-end electric lawn mowers reach above 8 ft-lbs of torque. That’s an impressive number that beats some gas mowers.

Milwaukee uses two M18 batteries to reach 36V power and rates their self-propelled lawn mower at 10.0 ft-lbs of torque—more than you get from a 200cc gas engine. You have to have two batteries to run the mower. While you can use any two packs to run, the best performance and runtime come from two 12.0Ah High Output batteries.

We went out and tested in St. Augustine and Bahia that dominate our central Florida landscape. We hadn’t mowed our test lawn for about a month in anticipation of this test. With grass in some areas still 8 inches tall, we dropped the deck down to its lowest height (1-inch) to see how far it can go before clogging and stopping. It never stopped. The blade kept turning high RPMs and discharging the grass without a problem.

It’s obvious to our team that this mower has a ton of power and it’s clearly the strongest battery-powered lawn mower we’ve tested.

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Cut Quality

Before we jump into cut quality, there are two modes to work with that affect the performance. Standard mode runs exactly the way we’re used to from battery mowers: the brushless motor throttles down under light loads and automatically kicks up when the grass gets thicker (2800 – 3300 RPM). It has an impressive response time to the changing conditions and shifts more quickly than most mowers we’ve tested.

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The second mode is specifically a high-RPM mode to increase the blade lift (3300 RPM constant). If you’re bagging your clippings or vacuuming leaves, it’s a more effective way to run even when the load is light.

The M18 Fuel mower has all the standard cutting options: mulch, bag, and discharge. With the mulch plug in, the mower does an excellent job of keeping the grass up in the deck and cutting it multiple times before dropping the small pieces back down to the grass. It’s interesting that Milwaukee didn’t go with a stacked blade system, but it doesn’t look like it would be much more of an advantage for mulching.

As we mentioned above, bagging is most effective in high-lift mode and it produces a ton of airflow into the bag. We didn’t have other mowers on hand to test side-by-side, but it’s obvious Milwaukee’s design is among the leaders in bagging efficiency.

Side discharge is something every design team has to decide on. On one hand, discharging clippings out the side of the deck does the best job of spreading them. On the other, you get better deck airflow for bagging and mulching without it.

Milwaukee’s team chose to go with a rear-mounted discharge. In our tests, it threw the grass about 8 feet. Since it’s a back-angled throw, it makes the spread closer to 5 feet to the side. That’s not as effective as high-end conventional side discharging. However, it’s better than most rear discharge mowers we’ve used and the design doesn’t add width to the mower.

As far as the finished look goes, we had a few straggling blades popping up, but overall, the cut was very even.

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Runtime

With the questions of power and cut quality out of the way, we turned to runtime. Milwaukee offers some helpful estimates. In standard cutting mode with a pair of 12.0Ah High Output batteries, expect runtime up to an hour. That assumes you’re mulching, removing one inch of grass, and running the drive at 3.0 MPH. In terms of professional lawn crew use, that’s enough to cover three homes sitting on 1/4-acre lots.

When you’re running in high-lift mode, that estimate drops to 40 minutes.

We went out and cut our test lawn in mulching mode, taking 4 – 6 inches in most areas with several thicker sections. It’s what we expect from 8 – 10 days of growth and far tougher than a standard maintenance cut. By the time the mower quit, we ran for 43 and a half minutes. Given our testing conditions, Milwaukee’s 60-minute estimate in maintenance cut conditions seems right on.

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawnmower Design and Features

As we unboxed the mower and assembled the handle, we were impressed by the quality of the build. The steel deck is solid and there’s very little flex in the frame.

The tires have a slightly softer feel that gives them excellent grip and the wheels spin smoothly without the wobble you get from some mowers.

Overall, this is one of the best-built battery-powered mowers we’ve seen.

Self-Propelled Drive

The mower is adjustable up to 4.0 MPH with an infinite roller adjustment. Just down from your left hand during operation, you roll the dial to the speed you want. It’s stiff enough to hold its position while you’re bumping around the lawn, but not so stiff that it’s difficult to adjust on the fly.

To engage the drive, you press a thumb bar down in the center. It’s large enough to accommodate multiple hand positions and overmold keeps your thumbs from slipping off. Personally, I’m not a huge fan of thumb bars because they tend to cause some fatigue during use and that’s the case for Milwaukee as well. I greatly prefer a second bar that pulls up to the main handle with a more natural grip.

However, Milwaukee did something that’s unusual for a self-propelled lawn mower. In addition to the roller dial speed adjustment, the thumb bar is also a variable speed controller. If you come across a section of grass you need to slow down for, just ease up on the drive bar instead of reaching over to adjust the roller.

Some mowers have chronic issues releasing the wheels to pull the mower back. We had the wheels stick on us a couple of times in our initial tests, but the majority of the time they release easily.

Deck Height

Milwaukee’s 21-inch steel deck ranges from 1 – 4 inches with a single-point adjustment in 7 increments. It’s a little unusual for such a well-built mower to opt for a single-point over 2 or 4-point, but we’ll take the more convenient operation. Time will tell if there’s any downside, but we don’t have any cause for concern at this point.

LED Lights

The fact that there are LED lights on the front of the mower isn’t a big deal. The fact that there’s another set on the side is. Instead of just lighting up what’s in front of you, the additional lights on the side give you a much better picture of what you’re mowing.

When you’re not mowing in low or no light conditions, just leave the lights off. There’s an on/off button right next to the speed adjustment.

There’s another set of LED lights facing you as you mow. These red bars are battery level indicators and it’s SOOOO nice to be able to just look down and have an idea of how much capacity is remaining.

Additional Features

  • Handle easily folds for vertical storage
  • Bag fits between the handle frame, making installation and removal easier
  • Drive system engages even if the blade is off
  • Presence bar recesses into the handle
  • 3 handle height positions
  • Front and rear deck handles make storage and trasportation easier
  • Weighs 85 pounds with two 12.0Ah batteries

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Price

The last piece of the puzzle is the price. You can get Milwaukee’s mower for 1099 with two 12.0Ah batteries and a dual-port Rapid charger. At the time we’re updating this article, Acme Tools still has it for 999, though. There’s no bare tool option at the moment.

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Is that expensive? Yes. If you’re comparing it to even high-end residential mowers, it’s an eye-popping number. But Milwaukee is targetting professional lawn care crews, and that’s a whole different class. Those mowers can start north of 800 and run 1300 or more for a similar 21-inch build.

Note that Milwaukee’s warranty is 3 years on both the mower and the batteries.

Replacement stock blades are available for 24.99 each. There’s also a more aggressive high lift blade that’s 29.99.

The Bottom Line

After taking a comprehensive look at the Milwaukee 2823 M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower, we believe it’s the most capable professional-grade battery-powered option currently available. It has legitimate professional gas-replacement power and a build that can handle professional use, though there are still a few minor areas for improvement in the design. If performance has been your major sticking point against battery-powered lawn mowers, Milwaukee has breached that barrier.

So what do YOU think about this new lawn mower from Milwaukee Tool? Share your thoughts in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below—we’d love to hear from you!

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Self-Propelled Lawn Mower Specifications

  • Model: Milwaukee 2823-22HD
  • Power Source: 2 x M18 batteries
  • Voltage: 36V
  • Deck: 21-inch steel
  • Deck Height: 1 – 4 inches
  • Grass Management: Bag, mulch, rear discharge
  • Drive Speed: 0 – 4.0 MPH
  • Weight: 85 lbs with two 12.0Ah batteries
  • Warranty: 3 years
  • Price: 1099 kit

Which Side of the Lawn Mower Blade Is Up? Tips and Tricks

Which side of the mower blade is up can be tricky for those who have only recently bought a lawn mower. Both sides of the mower blade have different purposes in grass cutting, and we understand that it might be confusing for new mower owners to differentiate between the two sides.

You cannot interchange both sides because this can damage the grass and the mower, sometimes even beyond repair.

In this complete guide, you will discover which side is up, along with several methods to determine this side practically.

  • What Side of Your Lawn Mower Blade Is Up?
  • – Clearly Written on the Blade
  • – Doing the Wobble Test
  • – The Wing Side Faces Up
  • – The Non-cutting Side of the Blade Is Up
  • – Rotate the Blade
  • – Mulching Blade’s Top Side
  • – Reel Lawn Mower’s Up Side
  • – Prevent Damage to the Mower
  • – Prevent Damage to the Grass
  • – Top Side Cuts Grass Unevenly
  • – Blade Gets Bent
  • – The Crankshaft Might Break
  • – Is the Right Placement of Lawn Mower Blades Side Important?
  • – Are There Left and Right Blades for Lawn Mowers?

What Side of Your Lawn Mower Blade Is Up?

The side of your lawn mower blade that is up is the one with slightly raised edges. This side faces the lawn mower deck and has a dull cutting edge compared to the other side, which has a sharper cutting edge.

Here are some fool-proof ways to figure out which side of the lawn mower blade is actually up.

– Clearly Written on the Blade

Even the manufacturers understand that it gets confusing to tell both sides of the lawnmower blade apart. To make things easy for us, most of them put clear stamps to indicate which side is which on either side of the blade. The cutting side will be the “grass side” or the “downside,” while the other side will usually be the “upside.”

A sticker will be attached on both sides, if not a stamp. However, most of us lose this important sticker from our mowers with frequent use and washing. We like it best when proper engravings indicate both sides of the blade. Engravings make things so much easier and do not fade over time.

You can buy your stickers and stick them on the right side. Double-check that you are sticking these stickers on the right side first. If you have a laser engraving device, that would be even better than stickers.

– Doing the Wobble Test

It is okay if your lawn mower did not come with engravings or stickers marking the sides of the cutting blade. You can always tell which side of the blade is up using the wobble test method. This method always yields accurate results and is very easy to perform.

  • First, you want to turn the mower off before doing anything with the mower blade. We even turn the spark plug off so that there isn’t any risk of the mower starting accidentally, either.
  • Tilt the mower over on one side so that you can gain easy access to the blade. The mower needs to be balanced while tilted; otherwise, it will end up falling on you.
  • Hold the lawn mower blade in one hand and the deck with the other hand.
  • Tug and gently pull the mower blade downward and notice whether or not it wobbles.
  • The blade will never wobble unless it has been attached the wrong way. Check that the bolt securing the blade with the mower is tight because this can also cause wobbling.
  • If the wobble test indicates that the blade was attached incorrectly, remove it and reattach it on the opposite side. Perform the test again, and you will see how the wobble will have disappeared this time around.

– The Wing Side Faces Up

The side of the lawn mower blade that faces up has a blunted and dull cutting edge. The blunt edges have very slightly raised edges that look like tiny wings. They have been specially designed to produce an air vacuum and lift the grass blades. Once the air pressure lifts the grass blades in a vertical position, the blade’s cutting edge smoothly chops them down.

Sometimes, the raised wings on the edges of the upper side are more challenging to see visually. You will feel these wings rise if you run your finger along the edge. Using your tactile sensation, you can easily gauge which side of the blade is up and which is down.

– The Non-cutting Side of the Blade Is Up

Once you identify the cutting edge of lawnmower blades, you will never again confuse its two sides with one another.

The cutting edge is the one that should always face the ground because it is going to cut grass. Unless your blade is really old, the side with the cutting edge will be visibly sharper and shinier than the other side, which will have a dull and blunt edge.

The side of the blade with the blunt edge should always face upwards towards the lawn mower’s deck. If you need clarification on both edges after a simple visual inspection, use a piece of paper to see which edge cuts through it more smoothly.

– Rotate the Blade

Do you want a quick test to see whether you have fitted the mower blade correctly? Once you have finally installed the blade, keep the mower tilted to the side and rotate the blade in the mower. If the lawn mower has been tilted on the right side, move the blade in the counterclockwise direction.

If the blade has been installed correctly, the lower side with the sharp edge will be the leading edge. Otherwise, you must remove the blade and turn it upside down correctly.

– Mulching Blade’s Top Side

Mulching blades are different from regular mower blades because they cut grass and convert it into mulch. These mulched pieces can then be used to make compost, mulch, or rake for the benefit of your lawn. You can tell a mulched blade from a regular one just by looking at it, as it is more curved.

Most standard mulching blades have a serial and model number engraved onto them on the bottom. The smoother side will naturally be the upper side. These engraved numbers and wordings are easily visible under bright light, and this side should always be towards the grass.

The second way to tell which side of the mulching lawn mower blades should face up is by determining its cutting edge.

The cutting edge of the mulching blade is more easily identifiable than that of a regular blade. The blade’s non-cutting or the upper side will have slightly-raised edges or tiny flaps that bend upwards. You need to ensure that this side always faces the mower deck.

Lastly, look at which side of the blade has a beveled cutting edge. It is easier to notice this bevel under sunlight or light from a torch. This is most definitely the upper side of the mulching lawnmower blade.

– Reel Lawn Mower’s Up Side

The reel type of push mower is an exception because its cutting blades have no ups or downsides. The mowing blade of these mowers is arranged in a cylindrical manner and rolls like a wheel while cutting grass.

Since the edges of the blade are equally sharp, it doesn’t matter which side is up or down in a reel mower.

Why Is It Important To Attach Mower Blade Right Side Up?

It is important to attach mower blade right side up or the wings side up because this is what keeps the mower working properly. Otherwise, the mower and the cut grass end up incurring damages, and the grass will not be cut evenly.

– Prevent Damage to the Mower

You can imagine how a machine will react when its parts are not attached correctly. The grass-cutting property of the mower will be impaired negatively, and the inner working parts might get damaged too.

It also matters how long you have been misusing the mower blade. The longer the blade is used upside down, the more damage you can expect the mower to incur. The mower’s undercarriage, including the deck area, is particularly prone to damage. The engine gets strained as you push it harder to cut the grass.

– Prevent Damage to the Grass

When you accidentally install the blade upside down in a mower, the dull cutting edge has to do the work of cutting the grass. This edge was designed for something else and will do a terrible job overall. When the grass blades are cut using a dull blade, they get damaged.

Observe closely and you will notice that the grass seems crushed at its growing edges instead of being trimmed smoothly. A grass cut from the top side of the mower will grow back slowly and healthily. Your lawn will also not achieve the refined, clean look one expects after a grass-mowing session. It will look untidy and choppy, with patches of grass cut unevenly.

If you carry on cutting grass using the wrong blade side, your grass might eventually stop growing, and the lawn might develop bald patches.

– Top Side Cuts Grass Unevenly

Both sides of the blade have their purpose while cutting grass and must be installed correctly. When the blade gets attached upside down, the upside creates no air vacuum. The grass blades will only be forced to stand upright with a vacuum.

The result will be that the grass will be cut at varying heights throughout the lawn. This is the worst nightmare scenario for any lawn care enthusiast. A grass cut unevenly will also grow unevenly and make the lawn look like one huge mess.

– Blade Gets Bent

Mower blades installed wrongly upside down get damaged and broken easily, especially if you have been neglectful and have been using the mower this way for a long time. Remember those raised wings that are present on the upwards-facing side? These wings are supposed to face the mower deck and remain untouched as the blade rotates.

push, mower, wheels, wobble, long, lawnmower

When one uses the blade upside down, these wings are constantly getting hit by the ground, grass blades, rocks, and other stuff.

Eventually, cracks develop and spread from these wings. or the blade gets bent. Once a lawn mower blade becomes damaged, it rarely gets fixed. You must let go of it and buy a new one instead.

– The Crankshaft Might Break

The crankshaft of the rotating mower blade is also at risk from blades installed improperly. The upside has raised edges and wings that frequently bump with stuff present on the ground. All the extra pressure generated is then transferred to the crankshaft.

If the blade gets cracked or bent, the shaft is also at risk of getting bent. In the worst-case scenario, you might have a broken crankshaft altogether.

This will lead to a much more extensive repair from a professional. All this effort and money could have been spared if only the blade had been attached with the right side up.

Frequently Asked Questions

– Is the Right Placement of Lawn Mower Blades Side Important?

Yes, the right placement of lawn mower blades side is important for cutting grass smoothly and working the mower. Otherwise, your grass will be cut in a choppy, rough, or uneven manner. In some instances, doing this might even damage your mower beyond repair.

This is because the top side of the blade has a blunt cutting edge and has not been built to cut grass. Instead, its job is to lift grass blades via an air vacuum so that the cutting edge of the lower blade can cut it.

– Are There Left and Right Blades for Lawn Mowers?

Yes, there are left and right blades for lawn mowers. This means that the blade’s cutting edge is either present on the right side of the blade or the left side. Consequently, a left-sided blade is not interchangeable with a right-sided blade.

When changing your old blade for a newer one, check which type of blade works with your lawn mower so that you buy the right one. A wrong side blade should not even be installed onto your mower.


This is the end of our exhaustive guide on which side of the mower blade is the upper side, and here are the key take-away points.

  • The side with tiny raised wings and edges on it is the side that should be facing up towards the mower deck.
  • The cutting edge of this upside is dull and blunt, while the cutting edge of the downward-facing side is sharper.
  • If the lawn mower blade has been attached incorrectly, you can test it using the wobble method. An improperly attached blade is not going to stay still and will instead wobble.
  • Fortunately, most companies either engrave the name of the sides on their blades or attach stickers.
  • If your mower has no engravings, you can always post stickers to prevent future inconveniences.

Learning to identify both sides of the mower blade is very important because these are different from one another. Once you accidentally attach the mower blade the wrong way and keep using it like that, it could seriously damage the mower and the grass.

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