Riding Lawn Mower Won’t Start, No Clicking — Solutions When Your Riding Mower…

Riding Lawn Mower Won’t Start, No Clicking — Solutions When Your Riding Mower Does Nothing When You Turn The Key

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There’s nothing quite as frustrating as a faulty lawnmower. Fortunately, if your riding mower won’t start and no clicking comes from the engine, you might not need a replacement just yet.

Below, our experts have put together the potential issues with a riding mower that won’t start or click and provide troubleshooting tips to help your riding mower work again.

How to Fix a Riding Lawn Mower That Won’t Start

“Should I call a professional when the riding mower does nothing when I turn the key?” The answer is: not always. You should be able to find out the problem with your tractor or mower yourself. But first, ensure you set the parking brakes.

Then check if the blade is still disengaged. Your riding mower won’t work otherwise.

Materials You Will Need

  • Work gloves
  • Safety goggles
  • Multi-meter
  • Screwdriver
  • Wire brush

How a Riding Lawn Mower is Powered

Riding mower is powered by a four-cycle engine (intake, compression, combustion, and exhaust). Some mowers use gasoline as their fuel and a spark plug to combust it. Others are powered by diesel and require no spark plug. In either case, the engine runs the transmission and drive wheels, and rotates the cutting blades underneath the machine.

Like automobile car, riding mower requires to charge a battery, starter motor, and ignition switch. When you turn the ignition switch to the ‘Start’ position, 12 volt of direct current travels from the battery through the starter solenoid to the starter motor. This current also flows through a cable to the anti-afterfire solenoid in the engine

When you release the key to the ‘Run’ position, this DC of twelve (12) volts is then redirected. Instead of going to the starter and motor, it moves to the alternator and anti-afterfire solenoid only. Together, these parts help to charge the battery and start auxiliary power sources like headlights and power plugs.

If your high-quality zero turn mowers work fine, you would hear a clicking sound between the ‘Run’ and ‘Start’ positions. This implies that the starter solenoid is getting power from the battery. On the other hand, when you don’t hear a click from the engine, the starter has failed, or its coil isn’t getting power from the battery.

Although mowers differ from models, they all work on the same principles.

Check and Charge/Replace Dead Battery

Battery troubles are one of the most common reasons a mower won’t run or click. A corroded battery won’t start an engine, and neither will a drained battery, when you forget to turn off the safety switch. Corrosion can be a usual problem for used riding lawn mower models at cheap of 500 below, so make sure to check this when you buy one.

A service monitor on a mower can help you identify when you’ve got battery troubles. But without one, you can check the battery using a multi-meter by following these steps:

  • Turn off the ignition system before accessing the battery.
  • Set the multimeter to DC voltage
  • Use the multi-meter’s red probe to touch the positive terminal and the black probe on the negative terminal.

If the multitester reads more than twelve (12) volts, the battery is good. Otherwise, it is weak, or dead and you’ve found the problem with your mower.

  • Accessing the battery, which is usually under the driver’s seat.
  • Connecting the charger clips to the battery terminals.
  • Plugging the charger to a power outlet. The charger should work on at least 10volts to charge the battery. Still, a 12-volt charger is sometimes preferred.
  • Disconnecting the charger reversing the steps above.
  • Plugging the charger to a power outlet. The charger should work on at least 10volts to charge the battery. Still, a 12-volt charger is sometimes preferred.
  • Replacing the seat and reconnecting the new battery in your mower correctly.

If a simple recharge doesn’t work, you need to replace the battery pack in the mower. Avoid a jump start mower to prevent damages to the on-board system

Check the Ignition Switch

The problem with your mower could be with the switches. When you start the engine and your riding mower does not forward nor reverse, your ignition switch’s contacts complete a circuit. This circuit is from a red to a white wire, which is on the B-terminal and S-terminal, respectively.

  • Pull up the mower’s hood to access the ignition switch.
  • Remove its cable harness.
  • Remove the tabs to pull the ignition switch out of its slot.
  • Turn the key to the start position and set the multi-meter to measure resistance, not voltage.
  • Connect the black multi-meter probe to the B prong and the other to the S prong. These terminals are along each other’s diagonal at the bottom of the switch.
  • Use the key to turn the ignition switch and start the engine. The resistance should display on the multi-meter when you do this.

The top-rated riding mowers should have good ignition switch measuring 0 ohms. This means its contacts complete the B and S terminal circuit and can send voltage to the solenoid. On the other hand, a damaged ignition switch will measure infinite resistance.

Other common issues you can experience with a damaged ignition switch include loose wiring and connections, corrosion, or spinning ignition. To fix this problem, check the ignition wiring for corroded, damaged, or loose wires

Inspect the Control Module

A control module is a printed circuit with resistors, relays, and a ground side that receive commands from the safety switches. If the sensors in the motor work correctly, a circuit module will also output a command to the starter through the solenoid. However, not every mower has one.

Depending on your model, a control module could be anywhere, even under the seat. And if you notice that your high-quality electric riding mower won’t start and no clicking comes from the device, or cranking doesn’t work, then this module could be faulty.

There are two ways to check the control module yourself:

  • Wiggle test: Here, wiggle the red and black wires connected to the control module while you start the mower. If everything checks out fine and the wires are connected, visually check the printed circuit for water damage and loose connections. To save time, you may have someone help you with the wires in a wiggle test while you FOCUS on finding the issue.
  • Main fuse check: Modules have internal or external fuses, and a blown fuse cuts out the supply from the battery. First, to check the fuse, remove its zip tie and then pull the fuse from its holder. If any element in the fuse is broken or there’s a fault in the ground connection, you should have it replaced. However, if you’re unsure, you can check for continuity using your multi-meter.

A good fuse should measure near 0 ohms. On the other hand, a blown fuse will measure infinite resistance.

Check Safety Functions

Every mower even the cheapest riding mower you can find in the market has in-built safety features. Typically, sensors or switches control these features, and they are routed through the control module. Once a detector activates a safety function, your mower won’t work as usual.

The main ones to check are the brake pedal switch, blade switch, battery connection, weight sensor (to make sure a driver is sitting before the mower works).

When you jump start the engine, you should press your brake pedal. If the brake pedal doesn’t work, then you need to inspect your brake detector.

  • Remove the hood and air-duct screws.
  • Pull off the air duct and take the fuel tank and filter out of the way.
  • Pull the cable harness off the brake switch, noting the wiring.
  • Using the multi-meter probes, touch both prongs that connect to the wiring of the brake detector.

If the brake switch is okay, the multi-meter should display 0 ohms of resistance. Replace this switch if you read infinite resistance from your multi-meter.

A riding mowers engages when the blade knob is switched off or the transmission isn’t set to park. To check the blade switch, our experts recommend to do the following:

  • Take out the clutch lever mounting screws. The assembly should drop slightly when the screws aren’t in place.
  • Note the prong’s wiring and then disconnect the blade switch’s cable harness.
  • Using your multi-meter probes, touch both prongs to measure the resistance of the blade switch.

Like before, 0 ohms implies your blade switch is good, while infinite resistance means you need to replace it.

Motion detectors, switches, and sensors have in-built override functions. These functions are generally used for tests, and simply disconnecting a detector can cause an override. If you suspect your sensors are on an override, our team suggests to reconnect them before starting the device.

Replace Faulty Solenoid

Follow these steps to change a faulty solenoid:

  • First, raise the seat to get to the battery. Then, disconnect the battery terminals, starting with the negative (colored black) and then the red
  • Remove the battery from its slot. While at it, check for leaks or corrosion at the bottom and sides. Clean corrosion off the cable leads with a wire brush if they are still there after dusting.
  • Disconnect the cable harness that’s connected to the seat’s detector.
  • Pull off the battery box after removing its clips or screws.
  • Note the wiring connected to the solenoid and then disconnect the cables in any order.
  • Remove the mounting and tab both with a screwdriver.
  • Remove the faulty solenoid and replace it with the new one.
  • Finally, replace the seat, battery, and other parts.

While you can repair some solenoids, it’s often better to change them for longevity. In this way, you can still have the opportunity to place your riding lawn mower on retail in the long run given that the equipment is properly maintained.

A smoking lawn mower is never a good sign. Whether the smoke is blue, white, or black, here’s how to identity and address the issue without the help of a professional.

By Glenda Taylor and Bob Vila | Updated Sep 24, 2020 1:40 PM

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Q: Recently, my mower started billowing smoke when I powered it up, so I shut it off immediately. Why is my lawn mower smoking? And is it a fire hazard? I want to know how to proceed so I don’t harm the machine.

A: Your lawn mower can emit smoke for numerous reasons—many of which don’t require the services of an expert. A homeowner can usually identify the reason for a smoking lawn mower by gauging the color of the Cloud coming around the engine, then fix it accordingly before lasting damage occurs. Keep in mind that all mowers with internal combustion engines contain the same basic parts, but the configuration of those parts varies widely, depending on manufacturer and model. Consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure how to access a specific part of your lawn mower’s engine.

White or blue smoke may indicate an oil spill on the engine.

If you’ve recently changed the oil in your mower and the engine is emitting white or blue smoke, it’s possible that some of the oil spilled onto the engine. Similarly, you could’ve spilled oil on the engine by mowing on a slope greater than 15 degrees or tipping the mower on its side. The smoke may look disconcerting, but it’s completely harmless. Solve the problem by restarting the mower and allowing the spilled oil to burn off. If you tip the mower often for cleaning or maintenance, check your owner’s manual to determine the best way to reduce the risk of oil leaks.

An overfull oil reservoir may also cause white or blue smoke.

Ensure you didn’t overfill the mower by checking the oil level with the dipstick located on the reservoir. To do this, remove the dipstick cap, wipe off the stick with a rag, and reinsert it into the reservoir. Then remove the dipstick once again and determine the oil level in comparison to the recommended “fill” line on the stick. If the level is too high, drain the oil (consult your owner’s manual for instructions), then refill the reservoir with it. Start checking the oil level with the dipstick after you’ve added about ¾ of the amount recommended in the manual. Continue to add small amounts of oil until the level matches the recommended “fill” line. Also note that using the wrong grade of engine oil may cause blue or white smoke. Consult the owner’s manual for the exact type of oil recommended for your mower.

Black smoke may indicate that the mower is “running rich,” or burning too much gasoline.

Your lawn mower’s carburetor regulates the ratio of gasoline to air mixture. If the carburetor isn’t getting enough air, the mixture has a higher percentage of gasoline, which can create black exhaust smoke. It’s possible that a dirty or clogged air filter is preventing sufficient airflow into the carburetor. Try replacing the air filter. (Note: air filters vary by mower model; view example air filter on Amazon.) Next, run your lawn mower for a few minutes. If the black smoke still appears, the carburetor might need to be adjusted in order to increase airflow. Either take the mower to a professional or adjust the carburetor yourself with instructions in your owner’s manual.

Take your mower to a repair shop if necessary.

If the previous steps don’t correct blue or white smoke, your mower could have a more serious problem, such as an air leak in the crankshaft (the cast iron or cast aluminum case that protects the moving parts of a mower’s engine). Continuing blue or white smoke could also indicate that some of the engine’s components or seals are worn out and need replacement. Similarly, if black smoking still persists after you’ve replaced the air filter and adjusted the carburetor, you could be facing a more serious mechanical issue. All of these problems require the help of a professional. If your mower is still under warranty, check with the manufacturer for the location of the nearest servicing dealer; problems stemming from a factory defect or poor workmanship may garner free repairs. If your mower is not covered under warranty, a reputable small-engine repair shop should also be sufficient to get the job done.

Used Riding Lawn Mower Valuation Calculator

Whether you are buying or selling, if you are trying to get a price for a riding lawn mower, garden tractor, or zero turn radius mower, figuring out how much it is worth can feel like a guessing game. The Used Riding Lawn Mower Valuation Calculator can be helpful in determining a lawn mower’s worth. You can read more or skip to the bottom to use the calculator.

How Much Is A Used Lawnmower Worth?

Like cars, the value of a used riding lawn mower is based on depreciation, appearance, condition, hours, class, and region. Riding lawn mowers begin to depreciate the moment they are purchased, and continue to depreciate in value annually. Cosmetic appearance, structural integrity and performance can greatly increase or decrease the price.

Because some mowers are more popular in certain areas of the country than others, region also has an influence of the value of a riding lawn mower.

The best starting point for finding the value of a lawn mower is its age. If the lawnmower is 1-7 years old, you should begin with the original MSRP of the unit and then factor in depreciation rate.

If the mower is more than 7 years old, you should use the average selling price of comparable models in your area. Once you have that value, you increase or decrease the price based on condition.

Lawn Mower Blue Book

The used lawn mower value calculator was created to help you calculate what a lawn mower might be worth based on age, depreciation, condition and class. There are a few other online resources that will provide you with an estimated blue book value for a fee. Our calculator was built to find the value for free.

How Long Do Riding Lawn Tractors Last?

Most residential riding mowers that are well maintained and used within their scope of capabilities can last 10 or more years. Entry level riding mowers are meant for the average residential yard that does not have obstacles such as surface roots or slopes.

How Long Will A Riding Mower Last Based On Hours

According to Consumer Reports, residential riding lawn mowers are manufactured to last 250 to 300 hours, and higher-end mowers are designed to last 400 to 500 hours. Maintenance and use is the primary factor on how long a riding lawn mower will last. A well maintained residential mower that wasn’t pushed beyond its capabilities might have an extra 25 to 50% beyond that.

Cub Cadet, Husqvarna and John Deere are brands that are known to perform well.

If the useful life of a riding mower (for insurance purposes) is 7 years, that would equal an average 42 hours used per year for a standard residential riding mower.

How Many Hours Per Year Is Average For A Lawn Mower

On average, riding mowers will accumulate 35 to 65 hours per year. If the previous owner had a standard residential lawn, it will likely log closer to 20 hours per year. For commercial mowers, 120 hours per year would be considered average.

As an example, the typical level residential yard is.20 acres and should take no more than 40 minutes to mow. If the mowing season is May through November, the lawnmower would be used for 7 months, or weekly for 28 weeks. At 40 minutes a week for 28 weeks, you would expect a mower used on.20 acres to log about 18 hours per year. This specific mower might have a useful life of almost 14-16 years, if well-maintained.

Based on this example, for the average riding mower used on the average.20 acre residential yard, you would want to see about 18 hours logged per year on the hours meter. At 7 years, the hours should be under 130 hours.

But if it’s a standard entry-level riding mower that was used to mow a 2 acre lot running 2 1/4 hours each time once a week for 28 weeks, it would log 60 hours each year. Its useful life might only be 4-6 years. If this 2 acre lot has slopes or surface roots, its useful life could be even lower if the rider is not rated for slopes or uneven terrain.

Riding Lawn Mower Depreciation Rate

How much do riding lawn mowers depreciated each year? The useful life of most residential lawn mowers is considered to be 7 years. For tax purposes, the annual depreciation rate is 14.29%. The depreciation rate is calculated by dividing 100 by 7 years.

After 7 years, the riding mower is considered fully depreciated (for tax purposes) and its value for resale purposes is defined by consumer demand and condition. Items generally aren’t depreciated more than 90%, so 10% of original MSRP may be a good starting point for garden tractors that are more than 7 years old.

Higher-end and commercial models that are built for endurance tend to hold their value longer. For some models, their base resale value can be much higher than comparable lower-end models. For that reason, we add a class-factor into the equation when determining the depreciation rate of mowers.

Depreciation Rates Of Mowers Based On Class

This calculator tiers depreciation rates based on riding mower class. Class I mowers are assigned a higher depreciation rate than Class III mowers.

  • Class I – standard-grade economical riding mower for general residential use, basic features, usually 19 HP or lower, stamped deck, rated for mowing 1 acre or less, commonly available at most lawn and garden stores, attachments usually limited to a bagging system and cart. Usually classified as a Lawn Tractor.
  • Class II – mid-grade riding mower, extra features, 19-24 HP, stamped or fabricated deck, heavier chassis, rated for mowing less than 2 acres, available at select lawn and garden stores and through dealers. Typically classified as a Garden Tractor.
  • Class III – high-grade riding mower, 22 HP or higher, fabricated deck, heavy-duty chassis, rated for 2 or more acres, uneven lawns and slight slopes, available almost exclusively through dealers, full range of attachment options, also applies to commercial mowers and mowers that are regionally popular (sell for higher amounts due to popularity).

Adjustments Based On Riding Mower Condition

The following additions or subtractions can be applied based on the mower’s condition when you inspect it.

There’s a Used Riding Lawn Mower And Garden Tractor Checklist you can use during the inspection to help determine the mower’s condition.

Excellent Condition (Rarely used) – ( 10% to 15%) Like new condition. Well maintained. No mechanical or cosmetic repairs are needed. This is very rare. Above Average Condition – ( 5% to 10%) Above average appearance and only has very minor cosmetic issues (fine scratches). No mechanical issues and mower has been well maintained. Repairs have been made as needed and mower was well cared for. This is not common. Average Condition – (0) Good condition relevant to age and routine use. Runs great and in very good mechanical condition. May have some minor scratches or small dings which do not affect overall appearance. No obvious maintenance or repairs required. Below Average condition (Slightly neglected)- (- 5% to 10%) Runs well but needs a minor repair or two OR needs minor cosmetic repairs. Some evidence of deferred maintenance but mower is otherwise in good mechanical condition. Will require minor repairs. This is common. Poor condition (Badly worn) – (- 15% to 25%) Runs okay but needs moderate mechanical repair before regular use or needs moderate cosmetic repair. Deferred maintenance is obvious. Will require moderate repairs. Rough Condition (Worn Out) – (- 25% to 50%) Runs rough and significant cosmetic work needed, numerous mechanical inadequacies. Excessive deferred maintenance and abuse is obvious. Will require significant repairs.

You can also factor in whether it is a popular model. mass produced (-), or mid-grade/pro

If the mower is 7 years old or newer

  • Begin with the original MSRP
  • To find the original MSRP you can:
  • Search the model number along with MSRP on Google (for example: “2019 Toro LX 460 MSRP”)
  • Search Tractor Blue book or TractorData (free – 83 brands including Kubota, Craftsman, Scotts, Cub Cadet, Simplicity, Toro, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy-Bilt, Wheel Horse, John Deere)
  • We are also developing our own database of used lawn mower original MSRPs. So far, we have most of John Deere added, some Cub Cadet years, and will continue to work on getting all the other brands added. You will be able to drill down to your mower model and can click on the corresponding link to have it automatically fill in the MSRP in this calculator. It’s still a work in progress, but if you would like to test it out, you can find the Used Mower MSRP Finder here.

If the mower is more than 7 years old

  • Use the average selling price of comparable models in your area or (if the mower is 7 or more years old)
  • To find the comparable sales you can:
  • Search the model number on Google (for example: “Toro LX 460 for sale”)
  • Search eBay completed sales, OfferUp, Craigslist, etc.

Why is My Lawn Mower Blowing Blue Smoke?

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The most important piece of equipment you own to take care of your lawn is your mower. Mowing your grass regularly at the right height and at the right interval will keep it healthy and looking its best. So if you notice your mower smoking, it’s easy to be concerned. Mowers can be expensive to repair or replace. The good news is that usually blue smoke isn’t as bad as it looks. Lawn mower blowing blue smoke?

Let’s identify the problem and tell you what you need to know to fix it.

It Can Happen to Anyone

Sometimes, even if you use your lawn mower with extra care and caution, follow my recommendations for spring lawn mower maintenance, and winterize your mower properly, you might encounter issues.

That may leave you scratching your head and asking, “What could be wrong with my lawnmower?”

It’s important not to blame yourself – these things happen. Look at it as an opportunity to learn, so you can avoid the same issue in the future.

There are many indicators that your lawn mower needs a tune-up or perhaps needs to be retired and replaced. Maybe your mower isn’t starting properly, or you notice a vibration or wobble during use.

But this article focuses on one issue, and that’s what to do when you see blue smoke coming out of your lawn mower. What’s the cause, how do you know for sure, and what should you do to fix it?

What Causes Your Lawn Mower to Blow Blue Smoke?

Seeing your lawn mower blowing blue smoke can be concerning.

This is especially true if it’s something that you haven’t encountered before, or you don’t consider yourself a pro at fixing stuff. The good news is it’s probably a simple, minor issue:

If blue smoke is coming from your lawn mower, it typically means that your machine is burning excess oil. If you wait it out for 10-15 minutes, the blue smoke should soon dissipate. You probably just need to wait until the extra oil burns off.

Often, this is something that you should not worry about, nor does it require any repair service.

However, it is also essential to understand what caused your lawn mower to billow blue smoke so you can take the necessary measures to prevent it from happening again.

Let’s not make this a habit, eh?

Below are some of the common reasons your lawn mower blows blue smoke, and what you can do to make sure it doesn’t keep happening.

Oil Spill on the Engine

Excess oil may spill onto the engine when you change the oil in your mower. Then, when you fire up the mower, the spilled oil will burn on the hot engine and generate smoke.

The simple solution to this is to let the spilled oil burn off, which will take just a few minutes (and a few concerned looks from your nosy neighbors).

The same thing can happen if you’ve overfilled the mower’s oil reservoir.

Checking the Oil Level

To check the oil level, use the dipstick in the reservoir. Just remove the dipstick, which is attached to the bottom of the cap, then wipe it dry with a clean rag. Insert the dipstick back into the reservoir. Remove the dipstick once again and check the oil level against the “fill” line on the stick.

It’s important to do this check when your mower has been sitting still and before starting the motor. Otherwise, you will not get an accurate reading because the oil will have sloshed around.

If the oil level is too high, you can drain the oil by tipping the mower on its side.

Drain a small amount of oil into a safe container, then check the level again with the dipstick. You can repeat the process until the oil reaches the correct level, as seen on the dipstick.

Finally, run the mower to burn off the excess oil. When the smoke clears, your lawn mower is good to go.

Another way to drain oil from the reservoir is by unbolting the sump plug. However, note that not all lawn mowers are built with a sump plug (check your manual to be sure).

If your lawnmower doesn’t have one, you can use an oil extractor pump to drain oil. Oil extractor pumps are available in most mower shops, and you can buy them online as well (here’s one on Amazon).

Mower has been Tipped on its Side

Sometimes, engine oil can make its way to the cylinder if you tip your mower at a 15-degree angle.

This can happen if you tilt the mower when inspecting under the deck or when you’re replacing the blades. Using your lawn mower on a steep slope may also cause the oil to spill.

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You can solve this problem by letting the engine run idly to allow the spilled oil to burn off and smoke to clear.

If you tip your lawn mower for cleaning or maintenance, it is also always a good idea to check the owner’s manual to determine the best ways to reduce oil leaks. Most mowers are designed to tip to one side, but not the other, so consult your manual for best results and to avoid oil getting where it isn’t supposed to go.

Usually, you only want to tip walk-behind mowers toward the oil cap. This is how many of these mowers are designed to have the oil drained.

Oil Residue in New Lawn Mowers

Perhaps you’ve recently bought your first lawn mower (or upgraded from an old one), and when you started the engine, it smoked.

Don’t panic. Sometimes, residual oil may be found in brand new lawn mowers. This is usually the reason why your brand new mower is smoking.

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Just let your mower run for up to 15 minutes, then the smoke should clear.

The above issues should not be a cause for alarm. However, if after 15 minutes, smoke continues to billow from your new mower, then you might be dealing with a more serious problem.

Returning and exchanging it for another mower may be your best bet.

Bigger Problems Causing Lawn Mower to Blow Blue Smoke

Here are a few problems you should look out for when troubleshooting blue smoke from your mower.

Typically you’ll only see these issues with older mowers.

Damaged Head Gasket

The head gasket is usually in between the cylinder head and the cylinder block of the mower’s engine. Its main purpose is to keep the engine blocked off from oil or other elements.

If your lawn mower has a blown head gasket, the smoke won’t likely disappear even if you try to drain oil from your mower’s reservoir. Since it’s not sealing the cylinder as it should, oil can leak into it. That oil will burn and give off smoke.

If your lawn mower’s head gasket is damaged or cracked, you’ll need to replace it with a new one.

This is a job for a pro, and it can be expensive. Check to see if your mower is under warranty. If not, get a price from a local small engine repair shop – that’s where you’ll probably get the best deal.

Defective Crankcase Breather

The crankcase breather, also known as the PVC valve, traps gases that escape during combustion to relieve pressure and reduce buildup of corrosive material in the lawn mower’s engine.

If it doesn’t work properly, it may cause damage to other parts of your lawn mower. It may also allow pressure to increase, causing blown seals and gaskets which result in oil leaks.

Replacing the crankcase breather is the best solution and it is relatively fast and easy, without need to tear your lawn mower’s engine apart.

Worn Out Piston Rings

The piston rings of a lawn mower seal the combustion chamber, keeping the oil engine from accessing it. Piston rings may get worn out from frequent use or if the mower is poorly controlled. They may also get damaged if your lawn mower’s air filter is dirty and unable to block dust and other debris.

Not replacing the engine oil in your lawn mower frequently may also result in poor lubrication and cause the piston rings to dry and crack.

Unfortunately, there’s no quick and easy fix if your lawn mower’s piston rings are worn out, damaged, or faulty. Your best option may be to have the entire engine replaced, and depending upon your mower’s value, it may be time to go shopping.

Why Your Lawn Mower is Blowing Blue Smoke

Your lawn mower blowing blue smoke is usually caused by an oil spill or leak. If the smoke clears in less than 15 minutes, then the oil spill is small enough not to cause any major damage to your lawn mower.

The tips and information I’ve shared in this article should help most people diagnose their problem, and prevent any reoccurrence.

However, if your lawn mower continues to blow blue smoke after 15 minutes, you might want to call in a professional small engine repair service for help. Alternatively, if your mower is still covered by warranty, then you can have it checked by the manufacturer.

Either option will probably be less expensive than getting a new one. The biggest cost will be time lost while your mower is in the shop, but you can always ask a neighbor to borrow their mower for a week if needed.

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